Headlight Upgrade for Mk3 Jetta? (fog lights and auxillary)

[ToddA1]

But what are the advantages of HIDs to your mind? I noticed Todd likes them too.

I made the recommendation of doing a retrofit. I doubt you’ll go this route, but if you look at what’s available for aftermarket bi-xenon projectors, the width and cutoff is amazing. The issue is finding headlights with non-fluted lenses.

I’ve never used drop in setup, so I can’t speak for them. Years ago, I bought a B4 with Depo e-codes and it had a DDM setup. Sold them…. never fired them up.

-Todd

 

[Rig]

I meant to post this over here so @garciapiano could see what I did. Yes, @ToddA1 maybe could have cut the these using some wire cutters but seemed less accurate to me. I was able to get a precise fit just grinding a bit off at a time. I had the tools on hand, so that's what I did. The abrasive stripper wheel was in my painting box.

Success! Installed the jumper wire today. Here are some pictures of the process:









And in case these pics eventually dissapear, I used my angle grinder with an abrasive wheel to grind down some 0.187 terminal tabs from Ace until they fit. I used some "regular" 16 gauge wire to connect them, then heat shrinked some tubing around the connection and electrical taped for good measure.

 

[Rig]

I made the recommendation of doing a retrofit. I doubt you’ll go this route, but if you look at what’s available for aftermarket bi-xenon projectors, the width and cutoff is amazing. The issue is finding headlights with non-fluted lenses.

Ultimately, I'm open to whatever is the ideal end goal for my purposes. I'm not 100% happy with the LED setup that I got, however there is more tweaking to be done and experiments to be made. It is however a far cry better than what I had before. The inPro housings are fantastic, and I paid a pretty penny for them so I'd probably like to work within that architecture.

 

[garciapiano]

Thanks for blazing the trail. Just waiting for the euro front end bits to come in… there’s a new eBay seller shipping them over from Bulgaria for astoundingly cheap right now.

 

[ToddA1]

The inPro housings are fantastic, and I paid a pretty penny for them so I'd probably like to work within that architecture.

Personally, I think it’d be crazy to tear into lights that you just paid $500+, then buy bixenon projectors…. you’d be nearing $900. It’d be cheaper to get a used set of ecodes, to play with.

Then again, it’s your money, to spend. I spend my money how I want…

-Todd

 

[garciapiano]

Jetta Mk3 with in.pro projectors

• garciapiano
• Feb 13, 2023

Installed with LEDs

Got the headlights in finally. Did the whole euro front end conversion, which was a pain but definitely worth it for the OEM fitment and placement of the headlights. What I did not expect was the sheer weight savings that you get from the euro front end pieces. The total weight delta has to be around 20 lbs off the very front of the car (in return for massively reduced crash protection) which you can definitely feel in how the car handles after.

The light output is OK, definitely better than before, but the cheapie LEDs I used have some weird scattering. I am probably going to need some HIDs for the low beams. A problem for another day.

 

[Rig]

Those look fantastic man. And your car super clean! Have you had a paintjob recently, or have you just been able to keep it out of the sun and dirt? Either way your ride looks pristine at least at that angle!

Maybe you could post a write up on the front end conversion. I'd be interested in seeing what's involved.

The light output is OK, definitely better than before, but the cheapie LEDs I used have some weird scattering. I am probably going to need some HIDs for the low beams. A problem for another day.

Yeah, the low beams have an odd scatter on mine as well, however it might be fixed with better quality LEDs not sure. I have cheapies there as well.

I believe they do have slightly different aim from left to right by default (higher on the passenger side) but you might check against a regular halogen bulb and see what the difference actually is.

 

[garciapiano]

There’s a lot of documentation on the euro front end out there, but I can’t seem to find a complete guide with good pictures.

The euro rad support is the main attraction, and integrates the radiator, condenser and fan assemblies within a one-piece plastic shroud. Instead of isolating the radiator using pins and traditional supports, the radiator just “sits” inside the rad support. The isolation is accomplished by the euro rad support itself flexing. The front of the rad support bolts to an elastomeric standoff that is part of the euro rebar. The rebar does allow the NA bumper to bolt on directly, with the subtraction of the foam inner piece. There was some minor clearancing needed for everything to fit nicely which was completed with a dremel.

The metal NA lower radiator support is deleted entirely. So given that there’s a lot more plastic and a lot less metal holding the front end together, I do think there is a decrease in front-end stiffness, but at a significantly reduced weight.

I’d love to get the full OEM euro bumper set on the car but they have become prohibitively expensive and difficult to find in good condition second hand. The only reason I went this far was because I found a good deal on fleabay.

And as for the exterior condition of my car, let’s just say this is its most flattering angle. A good detail and paint polish goes a long way with these cars.

 

[ToddA1]

the cheapie LEDs I used have some weird scattering.

the low beams have an odd scatter on mine as well

Out of curiosity, is the light scatter there with standard halogens?

-Todd

 

[garciapiano]

Out of curiosity, is the light scatter there with standard halogens?

-Todd

I’ll test it when I get a chance, but in my experience the beam pattern is almost always better with halogens if the housing was designed for them.
The packaging for these housings talks about xenon lamps, but obviously I have not gone quite that far yet.

 

[Rig]

Just wanted to report that the amazon dust caps work well with the larger leds with fans. I got 75mm but I think 70 would fit more snugly. I just had to cut a small rectangular hole in the dust cap to allow the wires to pass through. Unfortunately the installation of these threw my LED aiming completely off so I will have to re-adjust that which points a flaw in the compatibility of the LEDs with these housings. Not sure if there is anything I can do... maybe a small o-ring between the LED and the housing so they fit with less wiggle room?

Here are the dust caps you want for the inpros: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725Z62GR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Rig]

@Abacus @ToddA1 @Zak99b5

So I am having a bit of issue now that I've jumpered the highs and lows together. the Lows dim about 50% when I switch the highs on. I checked the highs and they remain the same brightness wether or not the lows are connected. How do I remedy this?

 

[Zak99b5]

Well, you can always use relays to feed the bulbs power from the battery + terminal. One good relay and appropriate sized wiring for the lows, and another for the highs, triggered from the factory headlight harness closest to the battery. That should work.

I had already converted my headlights to HID when I did the Golf mod, and the HIDs don't dim at all, but I doubt with the ballast and lower wattage that they would behave like halogens.

What did you use to jump the connections, and how does it work electrically? Is it just the highbeam voltage feeding both bulbs? My Golf mod (of course on a MkIV so not applicable to you) keeps the two bulbs separate, letting the low beam stay on when highs are engaged.

 

[ToddA1]

I’m thinking if the lows stay dim with the highs disconnected, maybe something got damaged.

LEDs do not like heat, hence the reason for large heat sinks and fans. Keeping high and low on the same time isn’t helping. My LED t10 city lights always went bad quickly, due to the halogen heat.

-Todd

 

[garciapiano]

The only issue I’m running into is that the brights flicker when the engine rocks. On both sides. Never a good sign…

 

[Rig]

Well, you can always use relays to feed the bulbs power from the battery + terminal. One good relay and appropriate sized wiring for the lows, and another for the highs, triggered from the factory headlight harness closest to the battery. That should work.

I had already converted my headlights to HID when I did the Golf mod, and the HIDs don't dim at all, but I doubt with the ballast and lower wattage that they would behave like halogens.

What did you use to jump the connections, and how does it work electrically? Is it just the highbeam voltage feeding both bulbs? My Golf mod (of course on a MkIV so not applicable to you) keeps the two bulbs separate, letting the low beam stay on when highs are engaged.

I just ran a small 16g wire between two pin recievers in the fog light relay as desribed in previous posts.

Not sure about voltage, as I have no idea how any of this works. However, like I said the highs stay the same brightness regardless of wether the jumper is there or not. Lows only dim when the highs are also on.

It could be an issue with the adapter honestly, and wiring them directly and independently like you said would probably fix the issue, but that seems like something I would need help with haha.

I’m thinking if the lows stay dim with the highs disconnected, maybe something got damaged.

LEDs do not like heat, hence the reason for large heat sinks and fans. Keeping high and low on the same time isn’t helping. My LED t10 city lights always went bad quickly, due to the halogen heat.

-Todd

I don't think there is any issue with the bulbs. They behave pretty consistantly and revert to normal behavior when the jumper is removed. Not noticing an extreme amount of heat buildup. It's negligible really compared to the halogens.

The only issue I’m running into is that the brights flicker when the engine rocks. On both sides. Never a good sign…

That's weird. Haven't experienced that I don't think, but maybe the bulbs just aren't seated very firmly, in other words when your car moves, the bulbs move?

 

[Zak99b5]

I forgot you have LEDs. I thought the A3 jumper was a metal clip? I thought I saw a pic somewhere. As for the wire, are you sure it's making good contact? Does it get warm at all?

As a test, reinstall the halogens and see if the lows dim with the highs on as well.

Just a WAG, but I am thinking that the jumper takes the voltage that supposed to supply the highs and shunts some off to the lows as well to get both to turn on. If that jumper is too thin, not enough voltage will make to the lows, hence the dim main beam with high on. Since the high portion of the circuit is intact, it operates normally.

A set of relays, where the car's wiring only carries low-load current to trip the relay (rather than power the bulbs) would certainly fix it. I installed a headlight relay on my Vanagon, and the additional brightness was noticeable. Here's an Amazon link to a relay kit (won't plug into your headlights, just an example). It has a good schematic in the pics of how it's wired in. If you find a kit made for your car/headlight type, it's basically plug-n-play.

 

[garciapiano]

I installed some Morimoto Elite HIDs in the in.pro projectors housings and the beam pattern is massively better. The beam now covers the entire roadway with a nice sharp cutoff and pretty great throw. It’s incredible being able to see the road after spending so many years driving with basically flashlights as lights. I kept the LEDs in the high beam position (which now seem pitifully dim in comparison) and need to make a jumper to keep both on at the same time but I am a happy camper. I don’t have before and after photos but trust me… HID is the way to go with those housings as Xenon bulbs is what they are purportedly designed for.

Can I say it was worth the $1000+ I cumulatively spent on the upgrade? Absolutely not, but it’s made the car a lot more enjoyable to drive at night…