Have to change my oil-pan... questions

[jiggseob]

A crack, that drips slowly, then drips really fast when I push on it with a finger.

Its an 01M auto, and I can get a free pan off a 2.0 litre gasser - but I have to take it off in the cold - I am told the 2.0 gasser oilpan is the same. Queries on parts site indeed show that oilpan fits 2.0 or ALH-tdi. Part number 038-103-601.

http://www.partsplaceinc.com/produc...keyword=VW+Jetta+Oil+Pan038-103-601&sku=19112

Confirm or deny that the 2.0 gasser oilpan will fit??

Do I need a gasket, or do I use sealant?

There is a bit of a discussion about the bolts near the rear main seal being difficult to reach. I have both a 10-mm-1/4 drive 6-pt u-joint socket, and a set of long ball-end hex allen wrenches. If using the ball-end allen wrench, since its thinner than a socket on an extension, does one still have to hunt and roll the flywheel to find the slots?

It looks like its going to be -23C for the day when I get the oil-pan from the donor car... so I want to minimize my fiddling in the cold...

Thanks in advance, Mathew Banack. Round Hill, Alberta, Canada.

 

[Dodoma]

If you are getting a free 2.0 litre oil pan, it should work. When you replace yours and find that there is a gasket, then go buy a new gasket. It there is no gasket, than use sealant. You don't have to be a scientist to figure that out. Use any thing that works.

 

[JDSwan87]

A crack, that drips slowly, then drips really fast when I push on it with a finger.
Its an 01M auto, and I can get a free pan off a 2.0 litre gasser - but I have to take it off in the cold - I am told the 2.0 gasser oilpan is the same. Queries on parts site indeed show that oilpan fits 2.0 or ALH-tdi. Part number 038-103-601.
http://www.partsplaceinc.com/produc...keyword=VW+Jetta+Oil+Pan038-103-601&sku=19112
Confirm or deny that the 2.0 gasser oilpan will fit??
Do I need a gasket, or do I use sealant?
There is a bit of a discussion about the bolts near the rear main seal being difficult to reach. I have both a 10-mm-1/4 drive 6-pt u-joint socket, and a set of long ball-end hex allen wrenches. If using the ball-end allen wrench, since its thinner than a socket on an extension, does one still have to hunt and roll the flywheel to find the slots?
It looks like its going to be -23C for the day when I get the oil-pan from the donor car... so I want to minimize my fiddling in the cold..
Thanks in advance, Mathew Banack. Round Hill, Alberta, Canada.

This is just my 2 cents here, if it was between spending ~$70US or saving ~$70US and in turn freezing my tushy and fingers off; I would happily spend the money and buy a new oil pan.
https://www.idparts.com/aluminum-oil-pan-a4-p-638.html

 

[AndyBees]

-Use sealer for gasket
-No need to rotate engine/flywheel to access any bolts.

An alternative that will work until spring is JB Weld.

Drain the oil, leave drain plug out, spray area with carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner several times to remove any oil. Compressed air works great to blow the oil into the oil pan via the crack. Once cleaned of oil, sand paper the area along the sides of the crack, and if you have a drimel or something similar, grind along the length of the crack. Then, spray carb cleaner again to remove debris and oil. Once you believe it is oil free, use the quick set JB Weld. Allow to cure at least 6 hours before filling with oil.

I've seen several JB Welded oil pans with no leaks..

 

[dweisel]

-Use sealer for gasket
-No need to rotate engine/flywheel to access any bolts.

An alternative that will work until spring is JB Weld.

Drain the oil, leave drain plug out, spray area with carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner several times to remove any oil. Compressed air works great to blow the oil into the oil pan via the crack. Once cleaned of oil, sand paper the area along the sides of the crack, and if you have a drimel or something similar, grind along the length of the crack. Then, spray carb cleaner again to remove debris and oil. Once you believe it is oil free, use the quick set JB Weld. Allow to cure at least 6 hours before filling with oil.

I've seen several JB Welded oil pans with no leaks..

This past summer I hit a piece of large limestone in our yard/employee parking lot with my Beetle. The rock poked a hole in the oil pan and the oil pretty much drained immediately. One of the field mechanics was nice enough to look at the hole. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and smeared some blue rtv on the hole. Left me a couple gallons of Rotella on my floor board. When leaving that evening I refilled the oil and drove an hour home. Drained the oil,cleaned with brake cleaner and used a product called "Quick Steel" an epoxy putty. Still holding up well after 8 months. Shame on me for not having my Panzer on!

 

[AndyBees]

My sister-in-law hit a spade shovel on the Interstate on the northeast side of Atlanta. If you know Atlanta traffic, it was moving at about 75-80 in a 55 MPH zone. She had no place to go but hit the spade and drive on hoping for the best.

Well, the plastic belly cover did provide a wee bit of protection. When she come out to the parking lot that afternoon to go home from work there was a long streak of black oil coming from under the car and leading away over 30 feet.

Long story short, my brother repaired the oil pan (belly cover was gone) with JB Weld. It held until three years later when she T-boned a Ford Explorer so hard that that the oil pan slapped the pavement ........... JB Weld was still there as well as numerous additional cracks in the pan.

That same engine is in their replacement car and has close to 300k miles on it (new oil pan, of course).

So, epoxy does work well if applied correctly!

 

[1854sailor]

…So, epoxy does work well if applied correctly!

Better living through chemistry!

 

[Dimitri16V]

Better living through chemistry!

Not anymore

 

[jiggseob]

Oil pan done....

The donor car for the pan was a 2.0 gasser. The recipient car a TDI with 01M auto.

I did not do the $70 new oil pan suggested because with shipping across the iron-curtain border to Canada is PITA. Our Canadian peso is not favourable these days. It would have cost $150 or so to my door. The removal from the donor car was made easier by schooling myself up by removing my damaged pan before heading out in the cold.

The old cracked pan came off my TDI 01M car first, the 5mm long-arm ball-end allen wrench is great for spinning the bolts out once cracked loose. There are 4 bolts on the flywheel end of the pan, hidden by the cast web bracing to the transmission bellhousing. Two of those 4 hidden bolts are accessible with a straight extension and socket. The two centre bolts, closest to the main bearing, require some "bend" in the drive. The ball-end 5mm allen wrench will work for those, although if its seized in place or over-tightened, it may strip out the inside of the allen hex. I used a 1/4 drive 10mm u-joint socket on an extension, it reached nicely. A 3/8 drive 10mm u-joint socket will probably be too bulky to fit in. Once cracked loose, the bolts just spin out with fingers on the allen wrench. Three bigger bolts hold the oilpan to the transmission bellhousing, they are 16mm (5/8") heads, regular sockets and wrenches work for those. Once all the bolts are out, put 4 bolts back in a few turns, and give the pan a few whacks with a hammer this way and that, of course using a piece of 2x4 between the hammer and the aluminum pan. The 4 bolts in a few turns will catch the pan when it comes loose.

The gasket surface of the pan cleans easy, with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The block-side gasket surface is more challenging, but it just takes determination and time. Clean both surfaces with a rag soaked with varsol, brake-kleen, or alcohol. Your choice of oil resistant high heat sealant. Gasket is available, but most use sealant. Sealant worked for me.

Now fabricating brakets and a 1/8" plate aluminum pan to protect the belly, and extend right and left to protect intercooler and transmission.

Slots in the flywheel for those two bolts in the centre rear of the pan? I didn't find it necessary to turn the engine on either the 2.0 5spd gasser or the 01M-TDI in order to gain access to those two bolts. Looking at it after the pan is removed, I do not see a need rotate flywheel to line up slots. I do not know about the need to line-up flywheel slots on a 5spd TDI. Someone who KNOWS for sure could post that info for future reference.

Mathew Banack