Have on-line parts stores de-listed the TDI ?

[TDI321]

Searching for CV joints and a lower control arm — im finding absolute chaos OR a blank catalog section for the gen3 TDI passat DSG. Now, looking at the dealer VW catalog they say the axle CV is common to the beetle and other models: Beetle. Passat. 3.6L. 2.0l tdi. 2.0L, diesel, auto trans. 2.0L, gas, auto trans, to 01/31/2017

Só I look up the axle CV for many of those other (like 3.6) and it's listed aftermarket, with fewer problems. But nothing is there for passat gen3 TDI other than boots and clips.. Did the industry de-list the gen3 TDI from these listings? Also, looking at control arm offerings they dont have the RIGHT control arm listed in text but have the picture of a right. On the left, the text has LEFT and the picture of the left arm.

Advance auto website jumps all over "like it's crazy” when I enter the parts catalog area for the Gen3 TDI passat. Like it jumps to throttle bodies or other gas parts...

This will be more problematic for the industry when the 475,000 units in dieselgate storage begin to hit the streets in Jan 2019. They have to re-coup some money...

Anyone else running into this online parts chaos ???

 

[767wrench]

I never had luck getting any parts from local aftermarket sources such as autozone, advance etc. Usually they never even had the oil filter for the diesel engine. Too much of a specialty I guess.

 

[oilhammer]

You are looking in the wrong places, and you do not need or want the stuff they'd sell you anyway.

If you need a CV boot, get a CV boot. Do NOT replace the whole axle, the aftermarket ones are usually Chinese junk and your TDI will wipe it out in six months.

Unless your control arm is bent, you can replace the bushings in them, which is fairly common.

While the NMS is a bit of an oddball in the Volkswagen world, as it isn't a "real" German Volkswagen, it is still in production, and shares a lot of other mechanical bits with various other models, including the powertrain bits, which are also still in production. Rest assured, despite Dieselgate, VAG is still building boatloads of TDI engines every day.

If you tell us you specific symptoms, maybe we can steer you towards a source for the exact parts you need.

 

[740GLE]

Have you tried online VW/Euro specifically? The Passat is 90% Mk5 and previous gen hardware that VW went parts bin diving.

I checked www.fcpeuro.com and they had nothing listed for a 15 TDI nor 3.6 for axles but had control arms both left and right as a set and single units.

ESC while gets a bad rap for horrible shipping does usually have the best selection.

I've also heard contacting "raxles" they can usually fab what you need cheaper than OEM and have twice the rating.

https://www.raxles.com/ordering.aspx

 

[TDI321]

Found out the car had both axles replaced under warranty at 9400 mi. Still has some symptom the prior owner described — vibration at highway speeds. Two other mechanic options: 1. Local CV shop says wheel bearings sound like they are grinding. That’s only a $220 repair for good parts and 2 hours on the jacks - local shop wants 590. 2. Local parts store says — no way factory wheel bearings are bad at 12K — they said it’s alignment related. Ive not experienced a bad alignment that causes wheel vibration and jittering before - just tire wear and pulling steering — comments from other VW passat owners? ???

BTW - I found on the cardone website that they list the correct part numbers for TDI axles — and that the online stores dont xref them accurately on TDI. on OEM catalog they list the same part as used on the V6 in the description. These are rebuilds for about $54 a side on summitracing Comments ??

 

[TDI321]

Also found out Both axles were replaced at 9400mi on warranty and Volkswagen is throwing on a redundant 12 12 warranty on those in addition to them being covered by the five-year 60 power train. They will not warranty wheel bearings because those are only covered under bumper to bumper three-year 36,000.

 

[06bluebeetletdi]

See if the shop you are working with can put a known good set of tires and wheels on your car and then take it for a test drive to verify it is not tires and wheels. Seems to be very low mileage for replacement of wheel bearings unless someone hit a pot hole/curb.

 

[jrm]

You are looking in the wrong places, and you do not need or want the stuff they'd sell you anyway.

If you need a CV boot, get a CV boot. Do NOT replace the whole axle, the aftermarket ones are usually Chinese junk and your TDI will wipe it out in six months.

Unless your control arm is bent, you can replace the bushings in them, which is fairly common.

This, learned the hard way as I put in 2 rebuilt (napa) axles in my 01 civic and now I have a permanent vibration. Its not hard to reboot them, just a rubber mallet and some time. Just don't buy the polyurethane bushings as they squeak like crazy once the silicone gell washes away.

 

[roni024]

Unless your control arm is bent, you can replace the bushings in them, which is fairly common.

I tried to have the control arm bushings replaced on my former 2013 TDI (sold back). I removed the control arms myself and brought them into the dealer to have the bushings pressed out/in. They were unable to do so, and I ended up having to buy two factory control arms from the dealer. Luckily, they paid for one of them for me. FWIW.

 

[740GLE]

Most dealers prob don't do bushing redos, they are parts swapers, day in day out the pit fall of GFF.

An Indy shop would much rather charge you $100 in labor and $15 in parts, then $100 labor and $200 in parts.

 

[oilhammer]

I tried to have the control arm bushings replaced on my former 2013 TDI (sold back). I removed the control arms myself and brought them into the dealer to have the bushings pressed out/in. They were unable to do so, and I ended up having to buy two factory control arms from the dealer. Luckily, they paid for one of them for me. FWIW.

That shop is full of unprofessionals then. They have essentially the same basic suspension bushing setup as VAG products dating back into the middle 1980s.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Also found out Both axles were replaced at 9400mi on warranty and Volkswagen is throwing on a redundant 12 12 warranty on those in addition to them being covered by the five-year 60 power train. They will not warranty wheel bearings because those are only covered under bumper to bumper three-year 36,000.

Sounds like the shop (or dealer) you're using can't correctly diagnose the issue with your car, and wants to keep throwing parts at it hoping something will work. If the axles are OE (and just because the dealer replaced them doesn't mean they are), then they shouldn't vibrate. And wheel bearings won't cause a vibration, in my experience. I'd look for a bent wheel or defective tire first.

 

[TDI321]

Could poor alignment cause vibration? I’m assuming the dealer process would not check alignment after an axle swap.. because they pull the lower ball joint and they are aligned with the three bolts.

 

[oilhammer]

No, poor alignment would not cause that, and no pulling the ball joint's three anchor fasteners loose would have no effect on this anyway, plus you do not even need to do that anyway (but it does make it easier).

The OP needs to observe the wheel/tire combo spinning on a tire balancer and SEE if it is out of true. You can balance something that is not round all you want, it is still not round, and will still vibrate.

 

[740GLE]

balancing a stoved up wheel at 65mph doesn't mean it's balanced at 45mph or 75mph

 

[oilhammer]

balancing a stoved up wheel at 65mph doesn't mean it's balanced at 45mph or 75mph

Um, yeah, it does actually. That's how balancers work. Out of balance just increases with speed, because the weight it is off becomes more pronounced the faster it spins.

But, often at a specific speed a resonance gets set up that once it starts, it gets worse until it straightens itself out because the frequency goes beyond the rotational speed. Hunter has a great book describing how wheel balancing works. There is also road force variance, which has to do with measuring the "heavy" spot in the tire as it goes around and contacts the road. Most good name brand tires are generally fine with this, but not always. And sometimes you are best to rotate a tire/wheel that is calling out for a lot of weight and/or a lot of road force variation. Meaning, dismount the tire, and spin it 180 degrees on the rim, remount it, and spin it again.

Been mounting and balancing tires for 30 years.

The better balancers can spin the tires faster, but they actually backed that down in recent years because they are much more sensitive now. So the higher balancing speed is not really necessary for accuracy.

 

[740GLE]

When I got new rubbers for the '10 Jetta, they "balanced" fine per the shop but I had a pretty good vibration that hit resonance around 60 but was glass at 75.

I always thought it was due to speed specific balance they set up.