Harder cold starts, stalling problem

[thecause17]

cause--- can you keep this thread updated periodically, there have been a few members who have "intercooler icing" symptoms but have not found any built up. thanks in advance.

Yeah I'll post here if the problem does come back.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

looks like i will be ordering the part, along with my 40k service kit from id parts!

 

[thecause17]

Well it's been starting fine, but it stalled on me again today. It was about 3/4 of the way to operating temperature and I was coasting to a stop in a parking lot. Went to pull out from the stop sign and nothing. Looked down and the car was off and just the battery light was on just like before. So I may have had had more than one issue going on here, or maybe it's only a matter of time before it's hard to start too.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

well that stinks, did it start right back up like normal, any codes?

I just picked up the return line today, probably will install tomorrow, maybe worth checking all your connections again?

 

[thecause17]

Started right back up just like the other times. No codes or anything. I see no point in checking the connections. If there was an issue there I'd have a fuel spill to deal with. I think this stalling issue is entirely something different, which is a pretty serious safety concern.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

just installed the part myself, we'll see how it starts tomorrow, i have a concurrent #3 glow plug fault also, so will be swapping that tomorrow

hope this crap goes away, im getting sick of worrying / spending money on this car..

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

yea you're right about the connections, i understand it better after installing the part this afternoon, what an easy install!

 

[thecause17]

I'm going to try and reproduce the problem tomorrow. If I can reproduce it then I'm going to take it in to the dealer. I might try and log with VCDS as well.

It's almost as if the transmission doesn't disengage until the rpms get too low for the ECM to allow the engine to run. There was a problem early on with these cars with manual transmissions where the cars would stall when you pulled out if you let the rpms drop too low. It's almost as if it's doing the same thing but it reverse, letting them drop too low while coming to a stop, but only on a moderately warm/cold engine/transmission.

Each time this has happened the car had only been driven about 1-2 miles, was not fully warmed up, and didn't see speed over about 40mph beforehand. DSG fluid would have still been fairly cool. The car had the DSG serviced at around 55k, since I couldn't confirm that it was done at 40k by the previous owner. Since I have a decent list of conditions I'm going to try and force it, so we'll see what happens. One thing is for sure, I can't just let it slide when I regularly drive my 2 year old around in this car, and have a newborn due any day...

 

[James & Son]

I read somewhere i am not sure what thread but it ended up being a weak crank sensor which was intermittent, seem to remember the hot and cold was involved as well.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

well the fuel return line is certainly the fix, started my car this morn ~51 degrees, it had been sitting for about a day and it started great, no bumps or stutter, settled down at 1,000 then slowly went to 800.

Great success so far!

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

and after about 2 days of starting better than normal, the old problem is back

glow plug replaced also that was throwing a pressure sensor fault, this had no affect on this issue either...

frustrated

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

thecause; how is your car doing?

 

[thecause17]

Mine's been starting quickly since I installed the new retention valve. It hasn't shut off on me in a while, but what it will do occasionally is shut off a few seconds after I start it. One time it did it 3 times in a row until the last time I put my foot on gas and it stayed running and was fine after that. I don't even know where to start with tracking that down...

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

hmm so it's done that since the line was replaced?

mine just stumbles between 800-1,000 for a few seconds (needle moving up and down) then stabilizes at 800, haven't had any prolonged cranking starts yet...

just frustrating still, after 200 bucks in parts, no improvement

gotta live with it i guess, glad i bought a 'new' car a few years ago..

 

[thecause17]

hmm so it's done that since the line was replaced?

mine just stumbles between 800-1,000 for a few seconds (needle moving up and down) then stabilizes at 800, haven't had any prolonged cranking starts yet...

just frustrating still, after 200 bucks in parts, no improvement

gotta live with it i guess, glad i bought a 'new' car a few years ago..

Yeah just did it once yesterday...

Does anybody know a way to test proper operation/output of the lift pump?

 

[Ghiurau]

I am having the same problems as you guys. Rough starts and stalls sometimes. Mine is a 2010 also. What a coincidence. But I'm a 6 speed. I have had people tell me that the 2010 is very picky to the weight of the fuel for some reason. He also told me that they offered a ECU reflash for 2010 model years but I asked my dealer and they don't know anything.

 

[thecause17]

I am having the same problems as you guys. Rough starts and stalls sometimes. Mine is a 2010 also. What a coincidence. But I'm a 6 speed. I have had people tell me that the 2010 is very picky to the weight of the fuel for some reason. He also told me that they offered a ECU reflash for 2010 model years but I asked my dealer and they don't know anything.

Who did you get that information from? Weight of the fuel?

 

[Ghiurau]

Who did you get that information from? Weight of the fuel?

Some TDI group on Facebook. And yeah, the specific gravity of the fuel. Some fuel is more dense than others apparently.
Also have an update on the situation.

I ran the tank down to a quarter of fuel then I put a can of Diesel Purge in the tank. It started beautifully for the 3 days that that quarter tank of fuel lasted. I filled up today and now its back to the same old rough starts. So I am almost positive that our issues are caused by fuel quality.

 

[Stutgart]

Fuel is pumped through the same pipeline. Gasoline, diesel, heating oil, jet fuel; they all come through the same pipeline. The mixed layer between each type of fuel is supposed to be side streamed to be re-refined. So, yes, fuel quality can vary.

 

[Ghiurau]

Update again: I started the car tonight (cold engine) and it was hiccuping pretty rough. I drove about 3/4 of a mile then it started to do a regen cycle. On a cold engine. Is that possible? Also rpm raised to 1000 idling and was stuttering pretty bad. Had to give it a little throttle for it to stop stuttering. (about 1200 rpm). After it warmed up to normal temp, all was good and ran very smooth.

 

[VeeDubTDI]

It will do it when the engine is cold if it hasn't been able to do it for long enough. Have you been making lots of short trips recently?

 

[cnytdiguy]

My 2010 TDI DSG is doing the exact same thing. I have had the frozen intercooler problem before and I'm sure it's not that. The only thing I can think of is that the day before this happened for the first time I had to fuel up at a shady truck stop in PA where I have never gotten fuel before. I'm hoping this stops once I use up all the fuel purchased there. My car is starting rough but runs fine once I get out of the driveway. I have not had any stalls or shutdowns.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

Update again: I started the car tonight (cold engine) and it was hiccuping pretty rough. I drove about 3/4 of a mile then it started to do a regen cycle. On a cold engine. Is that possible? Also rpm raised to 1000 idling and was stuttering pretty bad. Had to give it a little throttle for it to stop stuttering. (about 1200 rpm). After it warmed up to normal temp, all was good and ran very smooth.

mine did this today, entered a regen, as i slowed to enter the gate to my work the needle was 'searching' between 800 - 1,000 for it's stable regen RPM, then as i came to a stop it completely stalled out on me, started back up and the regen RPM was stable but the idle felt rough

Parked my car and popped the hood while the regen was still going, engine was shaking a bit more than normal and that 1,000 rough idle was still going on, very frustrating, no SEL light

lets keep this thread going, keep posting what your car does / is acting

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

I'm about to drive mine about 1,500 miles this weekend, so hopefully I'll know more regarding if fuel affects it etc...

and hopefully it dosen't quit on me and leave me stranded!

 

[Ghiurau]

It will do it when the engine is cold if it hasn't been able to do it for long enough. Have you been making lots of short trips recently?

Yes i was driving all city that day but usually I hit the highway everyday.

Update: So far after the regeneration cycle, I have not had anynore cold start problems. Let's hope it continues

 

[thecause17]

My car threw a code today, finally. P0263 for Cylinder #1 Contribution Fault. It's scheduled to go into the dealer next week. I'm kind of glad it happened, at least it gives some sort of route to take. I'm thinking it's going to either be a bad injector or glow plug, so we'll see what they say.

 

[ss~zoso~ss]

Not to jinx myself here, but after driving from DE to OK in 3 days (1,500 miles) it is running and starting completely normal, maybe it was loaded up with carbon and soot, or bad fuel in DE

fingers crossed, will keep you guys posted...

 

[VeeDubTDI]

My car threw a code today, finally. P0263 for Cylinder #1 Contribution Fault. It's scheduled to go into the dealer next week. I'm kind of glad it happened, at least it gives some sort of route to take. I'm thinking it's going to either be a bad injector or glow plug, so we'll see what they say.

A contribution fault is probably going to be a bad injector, low compression, or a cam/valve issue on that particular cylinder. This will be the first I've heard of such a problem on a commonrail... eager to hear what this turns out to be.

 

[thecause17]

A contribution fault is probably going to be a bad injector, low compression, or a cam/valve issue on that particular cylinder. This will be the first I've heard of such a problem on a commonrail... eager to hear what this turns out to be.

Yeah and injector was my first guess with this. I'd also consider a bad glow plug since the pressure sensor is internal to that and possibly a faulty pressure sensor could be throwing off readings for that cylinder. My oil was analyzed just a couple of thousand miles ago and everything was good so I don't suspect any abnormal cam wear.

I'm just glad the car has finally given a lead on taking some sort of action to fix it. Hopefully the dealership takes care of it the first time and doesn't end up chasing their tails.

 

[VeeDubTDI]

A faulty glow plug will throw a pressure sensor code. Contribution should be calculated by engine speed variations via the crank position sensor.