Oh boy... "come up to speed" on this issue I did indeed. It happened to me, 2011 Sportwagon, and I have running again. As an FYI, I recently, and JUST A WEEK BEFORE my extended warranty ran out, had a dealer replace the DPF. They had my car for a week, replacing this, replacing that, trying hard to not put any more into it than they had to. They finally replaced every component, pipe, sensor, starting with the Cat and all pipes back to the engine. Not sure if this made the condensation process more efficient or not, but I've had the car for a few years, driven it in winter, not experienced the problem. The DPF work was done in the end of November, '21. There is a caveat. I do think it happened once before, years ago, and I was just not aware of it. I did replace the battery, it was old anyway, it cranked hard, sputtered, started. I guess I was lucky. This time it was severe hydro-lock. I have other vehicles to drive so I waited until it was warm for enough days to thaw, drained what must have been over a cup of water from the intercooler piping, took out the glow-plugs, cranked it over. Water blew out of two cylinders like geysers! I had parked on a bit of a L-R slope so I think the condensation ran down to the two cylinders on the lower end. Cylinders three had very little water in it. I put the Glow plugs back in, it started, stumbled, smoothed out, has been running fine since. I was lucky, AGAIN, I guess. Since I'm a bit superstitious I don't plan on it happening a third time, so...
SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG!!
I have done some research, mostly here, and have come to the conclusion that a drain valve of some kind, or an EGR-Delete, is a better solution than the intercooler fix. I've read, on this mega-thread, that some people have had the intercooler fix and have still had the problem. That is not good. I like some of the drain valve solutions and have an idea that I'd like to run past you all. (DISCLAIMER: I have NOT read through every post on this thread but saw 2micron's picture. Wondering how it's working? Thanks.)
I'd thinking about an electric draining system using a N.O. 12v poppet valve drain system. I have ordered, for other reasons, the Skid plate ID parts sells, so my plumbing will have to consider that. I thought of sourcing power from a circuit that is only energized when the ignition is on and using a valve that is open when not energized. Stop the car, it opens, drains. Start the car, it closes.
Any thoughts? Thanks in Advance. Chris