Elfnmagik
Veteran Member
Perhaps it will just have a drain
Today the temperature in NJ reached 40+. My car spent the last 6 weeks straight in temp ranging from -25 to 30, in snow and sleet.
I prepared myself mentally when I started the car for the first time of the day in the afternoon. Temp = 41. Engine ignited after a 2 second crank. Ran rough for 30 seconds. Turned off and tried again. Still some roughness and hesitation.
Afterward, I drove around town and pushed the engine to 4k rpm several times. Hopefully all the moisture and ice are cleared up now. I've got to go to the airport tomorrow...
I work in Upstate NY, where my tdi lives during the week. I didn't put 20k miles on my car in 7 months by driving only in NJ.When was it -25 in NJ and wind chill does not count![]()
I work near Utica, and your comment made me look back at a comment I had made on my facebook on that day. It was indeed only -13F. But I had converted the temp to celsius (-25C), and that number stuck in my head.You must work way upstate, the coldest it's gotten here ( near Syracuse)has been -13. Snow, on the other hand.....
I am curious to see if its function undoes the cooling function of the IC. Maybe we will be calling it a interwarmer. Other than draining, moisture removal, or LPEGR disabling, warming the intake air is the only solution.Curious to see what a new intercooler pipe is going to do to resolve the freezing condensation problem.
Perhaps it will have a seal that doesn't leak. Or better yet......no seal at all and just a simple hose and hose clamp instead of the complex clamp it has now.Perhaps it will just have a drain
Would you expect anything else from VW?Wonder if that means they will only perform the update on cars that have experienced the issue.
And that's where I'm saying the problem is. If that seal can drip oil it can also let water infiltrate. My hoses now are now connected directly to the fitting with a standard hose clamp and no goofy metal leaky clamp with a flimsy little seal to keep out water.The second to the last time I had the hoses off, I took the seals out and cleaned them up along with their seats and everything else before putting it all back together. Since then, I don't see the dripping from the hoses like I used to and I'm not getting as much gook, either. I'm wondering if a good seal cleaning and then putting them back in coated with petroleum jelly or silicone grease would be a good temporary fix until the geniuses at VW come up with their fix.
No way. As already mentioned, it's always under positive pressure when the engine is running, if there is a leak, compressed air is coming out (i.e. water is not going in).And that's where I'm saying the problem is. If that seal can drip oil it can also let water infiltrate. My hoses now are now connected directly to the fitting with a standard hose clamp and no goofy metal leaky clamp with a flimsy little seal to keep out water.
dweisel
I guess if I get water in my hoses again I was wrong. If my hoses stay dry from now on..............maybe I was right. I'm just trying to eliminate what I think is a weak point. I'll run some test on my wife's still stock hoses and post back the results. I was intending to run some test today on my car to test for leakage,but it wouldn't start.There is no way a pressurized hose is going to suck up two cups of water through a slightly sloppy o-ring, unless the car is underwater. Does not the IC have positive pressure on both sides? It'd be blowing bubbles even if it was underwater.
Because this is such an important clue, let me be sure I understand. Is this guy saying that in a perfectly sealed system, no way could condensation in the IC produce two cups of water?Just talked to a shop mechanic foreman that takes care of 30 diesel trucks. Pressure on the charge side. Suction on the cold side. Also thought there was no way a cup or two water could condense in the intercooler.
dweisel
Being a "truck mechanic", I'm guessing that this guy isn't overly familiar with the operating characteristics of the Low Pressure EGR on our CR engine and that it dumps EG in upstream of the compressor side. After researching this quite a bit, I have no doubt that LP-EGR is the primary source of the water, we'll see, but I'll gladly take a friendly wager on it (loser makes a $20 donation to TDIclub)Just talked to a shop mechanic foreman that takes care of 30 diesel trucks. Pressure on the charge side. Suction on the cold side. Also thought there was no way a cup or two water could condense in the intercooler.
dweisel