Hard Start / No Start - Is your intercooler frozen? Check Here!

[VeeDubTDI]

Oh, sorry VD. Wrong again.
The correct answer is " Asain "
Tom S. In Tn.

Good luck, Tom S. in Tn.

 

[bassman5066]

I think it was I who posited that the EGR actuator could be a potential cause because my IC kit-equipped 2011 Golf still has occasional issues with condensation in the IC hose, whereas my wife's non-IC kit-equipped 2013 Golf has never had an issue.

We know that disabling the EGR will "cure" the issue at the expense of illegally modifying the emission controls.

My theory is that a bad or sticking actuator is not allowing the EGR to work as programmed by the ECU.

It's only a theory based on anecdotal evidence.

Nope. This is not an EGR problem. As the system was designed in this engine, low pressure EGR functioning perfectly fine (no issues with valves sensors or anything else) in the right environmental conditions (outside air temp low enough to keep the IC surface temp below the dew point of the water vapor in your LP EGR tract) this issue will happen every time. It is an inherent design flaw, not some failed part that just so happened to fail on lots of peoples cars.

I'm still not following how moisture in the intake tract could cause the failure of the EGR valve, anti shudder valve ("intake throttle"), or intake swirl flappers. I'm not really sure what part your talking about anymore so I figured I'd mention them all.

What drives me nuts is the intermittency of the issue. I've never experienced a hard start due to IC icing, and have never found a drop of water in my IC. Yet, I know for a fact I have driven a long time under the proper environmental conditions, and it just never happened. Plenty of you guys who have had an issue live in my part of the US so it really makes no sense to me why I didn't have it happen. The only thing I can attribute it to is driving style. I beat on the car from time to time and blow all the junk out by bringing it to high RPMs under load. 2Micron has reported that driving style isn't a factor, but I find that very hard to believe.

Whatever, I deleted LP EGR so I don't have to worry about that anyway.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[bhtooefr]

bassman5066: PlaneCrazy's belief is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his 2011, and causing excessive EGR flow, and that is the cause of the excessive intercooler icing he's experiencing.

An alternate hypothesis is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his wife's 2013, causing insufficient EGR flow, although that would likely throw a code.

 

[Tom S. in Tn.]

Nope. This is not an EGR problem. As the system was designed in this engine, low pressure EGR functioning perfectly fine (no issues with valves sensors or anything else) in the right environmental conditions (outside air temp low enough to keep the IC surface temp below the dew point of the water vapor in your LP EGR tract) this issue will happen every time. It is an inherent design flaw, not some failed part that just so happened to fail on lots of peoples cars.

I'm still not following how moisture in the intake tract could cause the failure of the EGR valve, anti shudder valve ("intake throttle"), or intake swirl flappers. I'm not really sure what part your talking about anymore so I figured I'd mention them all.

What drives me nuts is the intermittency of the issue. I've never experienced a hard start due to IC icing, and have never found a drop of water in my IC. Yet, I know for a fact I have driven a long time under the proper environmental conditions, and it just never happened. Plenty of you guys who have had an issue live in my part of the US so it really makes no sense to me why I didn't have it happen. The only thing I can attribute it to is driving style. I beat on the car from time to time and blow all the junk out by bringing it to high RPMs under load. 2Micron has reported that driving style isn't a factor, but I find that very hard to believe.

Whatever, I deleted LP EGR so I don't have to worry about that anyway.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

" I'm not really sure what part your talking about anymore so I figured I'd mention them all. "

I was referencing the intake shutter and actuator (motor?) assy.
I'll have to state, I am no engineer, so I can not truly argue the relationship with regard to failure......... just a PO'd owner.

" What drives me nuts is the intermittency of the issue. "

Notice I underscored that statement.
We acquired this 09' vehicle as a 6,000 mi. demonstrator in late Oct of 08'.
There have always been random infrequent episodes of stalling seconds after a startup (hot and cold, happens to a lot of cars and trucks), as well as a random surg at road speed (changed a 2 month old fuel filter for this once) or an infrequent unexplained misfire from a stop noticed more prevalent in wet weather.
But never until 2 months ago after an accumulated total 127K miles has there ever been a stall seconds after startup (both hot and cold starts), followed directly by the starter to engage but an inability to crank the engine. Strained so hard the instrument panel went black.
When informed of the problem which has occurred 3 times since the end of November 13', I checked the battery, connections, and was thinking a failing starter/solenoid to add to the parts list this vehicle has consumed the past 8 months, until the problem occurred with me and my hair stood on end when I discovered the engine was hydroliced. My initial thought was head gasket failure.

The only solution I can think of at this point is always be aware of this vehicles freakeshiness and park where it can be manually pushed and rolled or just rocked in a gear opposite to direction of travel in order to back the engine up hopefully at least 1 full rotation to help clear the cylinders of liquid.

This car has cost me a careers worth of credibility and I am at a total loss until we can find some outlet to get it off our books.

FYI: and this is the crowning pisser........ This 127K mi clean one owner car was denied as trade in at a retail brokers lot who was saddled with five 11' and 12' TDI VW and Audi's.
Told it was too old for any retail value and best to " Craigs List it ".

Through the years we have had a Fiero, a Brazilian engined Sunbird, several Pintos, and even a Vega once on our books, but this one takes the blue f___in' ribbon for operateable salvage.

P.S. Thanks for the much kinder words VDub TDI.
Tom S. in Tn.

 

[PlaneCrazy]

bassman5066: PlaneCrazy's belief is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his 2011, and causing excessive EGR flow, and that is the cause of the excessive intercooler icing he's experiencing.

An alternate hypothesis is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his wife's 2013, causing insufficient EGR flow, although that would likely throw a code.

Precisely! And the clue it's the 2011: excess moisture build-up even in summer weather, causing power loss and large amounts of steam at wide-open throttle. What are the two main components of exhaust gas? CO2 and water!

 

[bassman5066]

bassman5066: PlaneCrazy's belief is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his 2011, and causing excessive EGR flow, and that is the cause of the excessive intercooler icing he's experiencing.

An alternate hypothesis is that the LP-EGR system is malfunctioning on his wife's 2013, causing insufficient EGR flow, although that would likely throw a code.

Ah, got ya now.

I have a 2011, live in the NE, and never had this issue occur in 100k miles.

I got tom and planecrazy confused that's why I wasn't sure which part we were talking about.

Its a good theory. I'm pretty sure (for both LP and HP EGR) that the valves that control flow back to the intake are normally closed, which would mean for your theory to be correct, the ECU would have to be calling for the "excessive EGR flow". If thats the case, the ECU doesn't think its too much. It is only "excessive" in the context of this issue.

I am also pretty sure that all of the valves that control EGR flow are comprised of electronic stepper motors that have sensors in them to keep tabs on the physical position of the valve, so if there was an issue with one of those parts it should throw a code.

Since nobody here is throwing codes for the ASV, EGR valve, or exhaust flapper, that brings me back to the fact that the ECU is calling for too much LP EGR. Why that would occur, I don't know. I am thinking that VW would be much better off with a retune to adjust LP EGR control to fix this issue instead of installing revised IC kits that don't work anyway.


Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[bassman5066]

" I'm not really sure what part your talking about anymore so I figured I'd mention them all. "

I was referencing the intake shutter and actuator (motor?) assy.
I'll have to state, I am no engineer, so I can not truly argue the relationship with regard to failure......... just a PO'd owner.

" What drives me nuts is the intermittency of the issue. "

Notice I underscored that statement.
We acquired this 09' vehicle as a 6,000 mi. demonstrator in late Oct of 08'.
There have always been random infrequent episodes of stalling seconds after a startup (hot and cold, happens to a lot of cars and trucks), as well as a random surg at road speed (changed a 2 month old fuel filter for this once) or an infrequent unexplained misfire from a stop noticed more prevalent in wet weather.
But never until 2 months ago after an accumulated total 127K miles has there ever been a stall seconds after startup (both hot and cold starts), followed directly by the starter to engage but an inability to crank the engine. Strained so hard the instrument panel went black.
When informed of the problem which has occurred 3 times since the end of November 13', I checked the battery, connections, and was thinking a failing starter/solenoid to add to the parts list this vehicle has consumed the past 8 months, until the problem occurred with me and my hair stood on end when I discovered the engine was hydroliced. My initial thought was head gasket failure.

The only solution I can think of at this point is always be aware of this vehicles freakeshiness and park where it can be manually pushed and rolled or just rocked in a gear opposite to direction of travel in order to back the engine up hopefully at least 1 full rotation to help clear the cylinders of liquid.

This car has cost me a careers worth of credibility and I am at a total loss until we can find some outlet to get it off our books.

FYI: and this is the crowning pisser........ This 127K mi clean one owner car was denied as trade in at a retail brokers lot who was saddled with five 11' and 12' TDI VW and Audi's.
Told it was too old for any retail value and best to " Craigs List it ".

Through the years we have had a Fiero, a Brazilian engined Sunbird, several Pintos, and even a Vega once on our books, but this one takes the blue f___in' ribbon for operateable salvage.

P.S. Thanks for the much kinder words VDub TDI.
Tom S. in Tn.

FYI rotating an engine backwards isn't the best idea. Some engines can take it fine, but others not so much. I'm not sure which category this TDI falls in, but I wouldn't risk that unknown.

IMO if your experiencing this issue you really have 2 options (3 if you count the dealer's IC "fix" and an option). Either delete LP EGR or buy/fabricate a drain kit like 2Micron's and get used to draining it often.

Deleting EGR is as simple as a software flash. It can simply be "turned off" as the cheapest option.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[MonsterTDI09]

This is my first post in this thread, Ive skimmed the first few pages and the last (for updated information). Heres my story, I currently have 85k on the clock and bought it new. I haven't had this issue happen until yesterday. I currently live in south philly and it was nearly 50 degrees. I went to move my car and the infamous dead battery scenario was immediately present and happening to my car. I haven't started it since. I read the protocol of draining the IC then trying to start. That will be my next move when all of the snow gets out of here and then I will try and start it again. I bought my car at Young Vw near Bethlehem Pa, does anyone have experience using this dealership with this issue? Im a college student and I cant afford paying out of pocket for this TSB kit, Im going to call them tomorrow and state my case and see what they say. Im not sure what I'll do if they ask for it to be towed in and then have them "look" at it. I do all my maintenance on the car and I don't feel like being run around from the dealer.

Also, I was wondering if anyone had the approximate volume in the combustion chamber when the piston is at TDC in relation to the head and piston. The reason I ask this is, if one experiences the dead battery scenario, then I would assume that whatever volume that is between the piston and head is filled with water. Now, guys have also stated they wait a bit and then restart where they are successful but the car idles rough. It would seem the water would have to pass through the rings and create enough volume for the diesel to mix and start, or the glow plugs could have vaporized some of the water in the cylinder to create enough room as well. You would have water in the diesel regardless, I doubt the glow plugs could vaporize all of the water in the cylinder, if any and that would be my guess as to why why the car idles rough. But saying that, is there any thoughts or experience by activating the glow plugs numerous times might have? I'm just writing down my thoughts as to see if anyone has also thought of these problems as well. Being the water would have to either vaporize from the glow plugs or drain past the rings, is there any thought of any potential damage from those scenarios? I assume there can't be a huge amount of volume being the high c/r on these diesel engines... If these questions were already discussed in the main body of the thread I apologize, I was just throwing stuff out there.

Is there any updates on this overall problem?

Post 4182. Block the bottom part of grill helps this problem.

 

[kjclow]

This is my first post in this thread, Ive skimmed the first few pages and the last (for updated information). Heres my story, I currently have 85k on the clock and bought it new. I haven't had this issue happen until yesterday. I currently live in south philly and it was nearly 50 degrees. I went to move my car and the infamous dead battery scenario was immediately present and happening to my car.

With a 3-4 year old diesel, you might find that your issue is just a dead battery. I had mine replaced at about 18 months and others have seen early failures too.

 

[bassman5066]

With a 3-4 year old diesel, you might find that your issue is just a dead battery. I had mine replaced at about 18 months and others have seen early failures too.

This is true. I barely got 3 years out of my battery in this car. I think the teller here is if it turns over with a jump or not.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[kjclow]

Of course, if you think the engine is hydrolocked, then you don't want to be cranking on it. If possible, pull the battery and get it checked or at least take it in and warm it up and then see how it does.

 

[jjohns72]

Whatever, I deleted LP EGR so I don't have to worry about that anyway.

Bassman, you seem to be very checked out on this icing IC issue. I am at 110k on my 2010 and have never experienced it until this winter which has been colder than norm. Getting sick of draining it occasionally so am wondering about the EGR delete you mention. Can you steer me in the right direction on how to get that done and provide any cons that may be associated with doing that? I think i'll be doing your "blow-out" method until i can eliminate the EGR.
Not that it matters but had a 2006, now a 2010...this is the last one for me!

 

[bassman5066]

Bassman, you seem to be very checked out on this icing IC issue. I am at 110k on my 2010 and have never experienced it until this winter which has been colder than norm. Getting sick of draining it occasionally so am wondering about the EGR delete you mention. Can you steer me in the right direction on how to get that done and provide any cons that may be associated with doing that? I think i'll be doing your "blow-out" method until i can eliminate the EGR.
Not that it matters but had a 2006, now a 2010...this is the last one for me!

Well to be quite honest, I wasn't "blowing it out" specifically for this issue, that's just how I've driven the car over the life of it and that's the only factor I can come up with that may be different between me (I've never experienced a hard start) and everyone else in my region who has had a water ingestion event. It never occurred to me that a problem with EGR like the scenario mentioned above until planecrazy mentioned it. The only EGR codes I ever had were ultimately related to DPF failure.

As far as the delete goes, start with Malone tuning. You can either work directly with Mark Malone (involves mailing the ECU to him) or you can use his dealer list to find a Malone Tuning dealer in your area. I did the latter and worked with Diesel Dubs. I deleted mine along with the DPF, again not specifically for this issue. I did the DPF delete for other reasons and inadvertently got rid of the cause of this issue.

I'm pretty sure EGR can simply be tuned out of the software if you want to do it on the cheap. Of course you will have to look into your local inspection regulations to find out if this will cause you to fail. Rule of thumb is if they don't do a plug in test (OB2) on diesels you will pass, but again, you must check your local laws.

Another unknown (that I can't answer) is how deleting EGR while leaving everything else (DPF and cats) intact will affect those emissions components your leaving on the car. Will it shorten the life of your DPF and cats? I don't know because I never faced that question because I deleted everything. My best advice for you there is speak to Mark or your local tuner and see what they recommend. If deleting both EGR systems will have an adverse effect on your DPF and cats, definitely ask about just deleting LP EGR because that's the one that causes this condensation issue.

I do know you will pay full price for a tune to do those software deletes anyway (the labor is the same regardless of the software they are installing) so you may want to ask about a stage 1 (if your keeping the DPF) or a stage 2 (if your looking into deleting) to up the power while he's in the ECU.

FYI, I drove 3 hours to get to Diesel Dubs and he was my closest "local" Malone dealer. It was well worth it and I would recommend their shop to anyone.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[ticketed2much]

Its a good theory. I'm pretty sure (for both LP and HP EGR) that the valves that control flow back to the intake are normally closed, which would mean for your theory to be correct, the ECU would have to be calling for the "excessive EGR flow". If thats the case, the ECU doesn't think its too much. It is only "excessive" in the context of this issue.

I am also pretty sure that all of the valves that control EGR flow are comprised of electronic stepper motors that have sensors in them to keep tabs on the physical position of the valve, so if there was an issue with one of those parts it should throw a code.

Since nobody here is throwing codes for the ASV, EGR valve, or exhaust flapper, that brings me back to the fact that the ECU is calling for too much LP EGR. Why that would occur, I don't know. I am thinking that VW would be much better off with a retune to adjust LP EGR control to fix this issue instead of installing revised IC kits that don't work anyway.

Some people report the kits do seem to make some improvement, just not a "fix". As you state it is unlikely that the ECU is calling for these valves to be open more than they should be, but maybe if the valves were gummed up from exhaust gasses etc.. they may be stuck partially open/not closing fully. This would allow for additional gasses to pass through. Would the ECU be able to compensate for this by keeping them closed more? How sensitive are the sensors that monitor the physical location of the valve?

 

[bassman5066]

And guys FWIW, I was in a local trucking company today for work and spoke to the parts guy and he said they are dealing with IC icing, DPF/turbo failures, and HPFP failures. Figured it might make you feel a little better to find out were not the only ones dealing with this crap.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[bassman5066]

Some people report the kits do seem to make some improvement, just not a "fix". As you state it is unlikely that the ECU is calling for these valves to be open more than they should be, but maybe if the valves were gummed up from exhaust gasses etc.. they may be stuck partially open/not closing fully. This would allow for additional gasses to pass through. Would the ECU be able to compensate for this by keeping them closed more? How sensitive are the sensors that monitor the physical location of the valve?

Lots of unknowns there, and I wish I had a better answer for you. I know for a fact the ASV/intake throttle has a sensor to read its position (I dealt with this when mine failed). I'm pretty sure the exhaust flapper is designed almost the same. Its just a DC stepper motor so the part would at least have to have a "home position" sensor so the ECU knew it was starting from the right point. The EGR valve itself (bolted to the ASV) is one I don't know much about. I know its electronically controlled, so one would think its also a stepper motor considering it needs to make precise adjustments to the valve. Too many unknowns. I think it's about time some of the people who are experiencing this dig in and see if the EGR control components are indeed gummed up.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[BT3076]

With a 3-4 year old diesel, you might find that your issue is just a dead battery. I had mine replaced at about 18 months and others have seen early failures too.

I would have thought that was a possibility but the first crank actually started the engine for a second then it died. The dead battery scenario was happened on the following start.

 

[Kristiyan]

Well to be quite honest, I wasn't "blowing it out" specifically for this issue, that's just how I've driven the car over the life of it and that's the only factor I can come up with that may be different between me (I've never experienced a hard start) and everyone else in my region who has had a water ingestion event. It never occurred to me that a problem with EGR like the scenario mentioned above until planecrazy mentioned it. The only EGR codes I ever had were ultimately related to DPF failure.

As far as the delete goes, start with Malone tuning. You can either work directly with Mark Malone (involves mailing the ECU to him) or you can use his dealer list to find a Malone Tuning dealer in your area. I did the latter and worked with Diesel Dubs. I deleted mine along with the DPF, again not specifically for this issue. I did the DPF delete for other reasons and inadvertently got rid of the cause of this issue.

I'm pretty sure EGR can simply be tuned out of the software if you want to do it on the cheap. Of course you will have to look into your local inspection regulations to find out if this will cause you to fail. Rule of thumb is if they don't do a plug in test (OB2) on diesels you will pass, but again, you must check your local laws.

Another unknown (that I can't answer) is how deleting EGR while leaving everything else (DPF and cats) intact will affect those emissions components your leaving on the car. Will it shorten the life of your DPF and cats? I don't know because I never faced that question because I deleted everything. My best advice for you there is speak to Mark or your local tuner and see what they recommend. If deleting both EGR systems will have an adverse effect on your DPF and cats, definitely ask about just deleting LP EGR because that's the one that causes this condensation issue.

I do know you will pay full price for a tune to do those software deletes anyway (the labor is the same regardless of the software they are installing) so you may want to ask about a stage 1 (if your keeping the DPF) or a stage 2 (if your looking into deleting) to up the power while he's in the ECU.

FYI, I drove 3 hours to get to Diesel Dubs and he was my closest "local" Malone dealer. It was well worth it and I would recommend their shop to anyone.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

How much would egr,dpf delete and a tune cost? Diesel Dubs is about an hour and a half away from me so I might be going there soon.

 

[bassman5066]

How much would egr,dpf delete and a tune cost? Diesel Dubs is about an hour and a half away from me so I might be going there soon.

There's many ways you can do it, but my whole deal ran me like $2000 or so. Not cheap at all but I'm happy with it. Best bet is to give them a call and ask Les about your options.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[MonsterTDI09]

The cheap way help this problem is just blocked off the bottom grill. This way you get up temperature faster. On the real cold days do part of the top to if you want. I was in Michigan last weekend for the auto show it about 10* to 15*.I had no problems with just the bottom grill covered even driving home to warmer temps nothing.

The LP/EGR opens up when there is a load on engine and higher rpm range.This is why blocking the grill helps by keep the warm water vapor from condensing.I hope this helps.

 

[bassman5066]

The cheap way help this problem is just blocked off the bottom grill. This way you get up temperature faster. On the real cold days do part of the top to if you want. I was in Michigan last weekend for the auto show it about 10* to 15*.I had no problems with just the bottom grill covered even driving home to warmer temps nothing.

The LP/EGR opens up when there is a load on engine and higher rpm range.This is why blocking the grill helps by keep the warm water vapor from condensing.I hope this helps.

Good to hear there is a cheaper option that seems to work (or at least help...). :thumbup:

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[jjohns72]

As far as the delete goes, start with Malone tuning. You can either work directly with Mark Malone (involves mailing the ECU to him) or you can use his dealer list to find a Malone Tuning dealer in your area. I did the latter and worked with Diesel Dubs. I deleted mine along with the DPF, again not specifically for this issue. I did the DPF delete for other reasons and inadvertently got rid of the cause of this issue.

Thanks a ton for all the info. I'll look into this asap.

 

[STRANGETDI]

The LP/EGR opens up when there is a load on engine and higher rpm range.This is why blocking the grill helps by keep the warm water vapor from condensing.I hope this helps.

So the theory about keeping the RPMS above 2K and "occasionally blowing it out" with 4-4.5k RPM runs is pointless?

 

[VeeDubTDI]

That's only going to blow water and snot through your engine... it isn't going to stop the problem. I actually think that it may separate the light water from the heavy snot, leaving the snot behind in the bottom of the intercooler until it builds up enough to cause even more problems. Just a theory of mine.

 

[bassman5066]

So the theory about keeping the RPMS above 2K and "occasionally blowing it out" with 4-4.5k RPM runs is pointless?

2Micron has done lots of testing with his drain kit and he claims that driving style doesn't change the symptom at all. I trust his testing because he knows way more about this engine than I, but I think more testing is required in that department.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[MAXecutive]

Here is my iced up IC thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=404741

Complete loss of power at 50mph on highway. 2012 Jetta with 42k miles and VWoA approved 100% parts and labor for the Cold Weather IC. Dealer got all parts in 6 days.

 

[ChanLewis]

Just wanted to report my IC freeze. During the first polar vortex (Wed., January 8th) I was driving on the NY Thruway, 65-70 mph in 5th mostly, 10 degrees (two days after heavy rain). Exited the Thruway onto tertiary streets, engine stumbled, and GPL came on. Went into limp mode but was close to the dealer, so just drove it to VW and parked it.

On Thursday the service manager confirmed it was a frozen IC, and he ordered the 10 degree kit. I'm at 85K miles, so I had little hope of having it covered. Tried anyway, armed with the service bulletin, etc., to no avail.

By Monday the 13th I had it back and have been pushing it hard since (especially now in Polar Vortex #2). MPGs are down to 32 and it feels sluggish (a little) like what Max was saying above.

 

[Rob M]

Thanks to everyone on the board for the info. I contacted Volkswagen of America and it looks like they will have the dealer replace the parts after the dealer was unable/unwilling to do so. But I am wondering if any engine damage may have occurred. 1st time the no start condition happened, my wife was finally able to start the car. The second time, it was towed to the dealer and I have no idea what they did, but they claimed it started with no problem. Engine seems to be running smoothly, but could there be damage?

 

[Pipedream]

This is a video (the phone was held sideways) of my VW Golf TDI 2012 that I purchased in September 2013 with 16k miles on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDs6MwAKAPo&feature=youtu.be

*The reason for the upset tone in this video is due to the fact the dealership that worked on it for 15 days asked me to "drive it around some and see if the problem persists and maybe catch it on camera". They first asked me if I knew how to turn the key in my car and wait 15 seconds for my glow plugs to light up. As a result, I am understandably agitated and this video is intended for them.

It now has 23k (as of today 1/24/14) and has just returned from a 15 day stay at a dealership where a number or repairs were performed that did not resolve this exact same hard starting issue.

Checkered Flag VW of Virginia Beach performed the following "repairs" on the car:
http://www.filedropper.com/20140120083948172

The car is now sitting in the parking lot of my workplace in Newport News, VA, awaiting a tow tomorrow morning to Casey VW of Newport News.

The dealership was convinced I had "gelled the fuel" by using the following EPA approved and spicer test winning anti-gelling additive (seriously?):
http://opti-lube.com/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver-product.html

The dealership replaced my fuel in the tank with non-additive enhanced diesel fuel (I was using it to avoid fuel pump failure that is commonplace with this car and as a hedge against the poor quality diesel fuel we have here in Virginia).

Surprise surprise, the problem persists. Looks like a new speed sensor and fuel tank assist pump were as unrelated as I thought to the issue (the dealer threw new ones in b/c they wanted me to believe they did something for 15 days, and maybe had some extras lying around).

 

[mac5155]

Here is my iced up IC thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=404741

Complete loss of power at 50mph on highway. 2012 Jetta with 42k miles and VWoA approved 100% parts and labor for the Cold Weather IC. Dealer got all parts in 6 days.

Please, PLEASE report this to the NHTSA. It is now a safety issue.