This thread is intended to be an accumulation of knowledge that I have obtained on my quest for a better feeling shifter in my 2002 Golf TDI. This should apply to most later (2000+) MKIVs and I believe MKV cars are very similar in design, although not identical. I found that most of this info is scattered across multiple threads on multiple sites, so hopefully this takes the work out of finding some solutions to your aging shifter.
First, let’s get a few terms straight.
Shift Knob: The thing you hold in your hand when you’re driving
Shift Lever: The metal shaft that the shift knob sits upon. You row this back and forth through the gears.
Shift box: The entire rectangular box part that sits right under your center console. It houses all the linkages and parts that make the movements of your hand on the knob move the cables in the correct direction.
Shifter Linkages: The plastic pieces that attach to the ends of the cables. These are used to calibrate the shifter to its “home” position.
Shift Tower: The cast aluminum piece that bolts onto the top of your transmission and its containments. It houses another shaft which is pushed up and down and rotated by the cables to put the car into gear, along with some bearings and a locking pin, which locks the transmission into “home” position.
Cable Bracket: This is the black steel bracket that sits atop your transmission. Attached by 3 bolts to provide no relative motion between the sheaths of the shifter cables and the transmission.
Useful video on linkage calibration done by dieselgeek: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo
There are some things that you can do to make your shifter feel more solid. Here they are from most effective to least effective as reported by other VW enthusiasts.
#1 – Shift lever socket cup replacement
Part Number: 1K0711699
Cost: ~$8-9 + shipping
Where to buy: ECS Tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES316522/)
How-to: Disconnect the shift linkages from the transmission. Just take off the two clips, you don't have to mess with recalibration. Then use a torx on the retention plate screws. From there, pull UP on the gear shift with one hand and pull the bushing out with the other. You may need to pry it out with some sort of tool.
Right underneath your shift boot, there is a plastic looking ball and a plastic looking cup that provides a pivot for the shift lever. Over the years this ball and cup can degrade. I think replacing the ball requires a new shift lever, but replacing of the cup is not too bad.
Here is a picture of the cup, part # 1K0711699 (1K0711699A is also a part number that you may stumble upon. My local VW dealer said that the P/N without the A is the one that I want, and that decision was confirmed by ECS Tuning. The 1K0711699A P/N is for MKV cars, I believe, but don’t take me up on that. Definitely confirm what part you need before ordering.)
#2 – Shift tower Bushing Replacement
Part Number: Bearing - 02A311648C ; Seal - 02A301227M ; Washer - 02A301320B
Cost: ~$25 + shipping
Where to buy: IDparts (http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2281) or ECS Tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271531/ --- http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271382/ --- http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271393/)
How-to: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-amp-Bushing-Repair&p=78934588#post78934588
This is the bearing inside your shift tower that the gear selector shaft rides in. This, too can wear out over time. Replacing this part is pretty simple given you have the skills, and not too expensive either. Many report that this really tightens up the shifting quite a bit.
#3 – Shifter end linkage stiffening
Part Number: N/A
Cost: $26+
Where to buy:
Speedsource Solid Brass inserts $26 + shipping http://speed-source.net/?wpsc-product=vwaudi-shifter-bushings
42 Draft Designs aluminum inserts with brass bushings $35 + shipping http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bushing-Set--Mk4-56S-MY02-05_p_279.html
034 Motorsport replacement end linkages with high density rubber $110 + shipping http://store.034motorsport.com/shift-linkage-bushing-pair-density-line-mkiv-vw-5-6-speed.html
How-to: Remove end links as shown in re-calibration video at beginning of thread. Remove old rubber, reinstall with stiffened bushings in place.
#4 – Cable Bracket Bushing stiffening
Part Number: N/A
Cost: $25+
Where to buy:
42 Draft Designs $25 + shipping http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bracket-Bushings_p_749.html
Virdict Motosports $26 + shipping http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0100
ForceFed Engineering $34.99 + shipping http://store.forcefedengineering.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FFE_PE_SHIFT
How-to: Pretty simple stuff, just unbolt bracket, remove old rubber bushings, and reinstall with updated bushings.
#5 – Other possibilities
Other parts in the shift box can wear out and cause play and sloppiness in your shifter.
- Transmission relay lever plastic guide. To my knowledge can only be bought with whole relay and end linkage assembly as shown here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Drivetrain/View_All/ES4526/
- Shift box relay lever bushings. These bushings are the following part numbers: left - 1K0711067 --- right - 1K0711067A. These can also be bought at ECS Tuning.
EXTRA ITEMS WORTH MENTIONING:
Dieselgeek Sigma 6 short shifter(plays with lever lengths on transmission side): http://www.dieselgeek.com/5_Speed_VW_Short_Shifter_p/ss-sigma5.htm
B&M short shifter (replaces shift lever): http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=precision-sport-shifter-audi-and-vw
How to for removing and replacing a shift lever from B&M installation instructions: http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45114.pdf
So hopefully this clears some things up. I have a bunch of parts on the way, and I will update this thread with results as I install the parts. I made my own aluminum cable bracket bushing set, and ordered a new shifter cup, 42DD end linkage bushings, new shift tower bearing and seals, and also new shift box relay lever bushings. I'm also going to cut about 1" off of the top of my shift lever.
EDIT: I guess its worth stating that I am not involved or related to any of the companies listed above. I have personally used 034 Motorsport, 42 Draft Designs, ECS tuning, and IDparts and have nothing but great things to say about them. For the rest of the companies, you are on your own.
First, let’s get a few terms straight.
Shift Knob: The thing you hold in your hand when you’re driving
Shift Lever: The metal shaft that the shift knob sits upon. You row this back and forth through the gears.
Shift box: The entire rectangular box part that sits right under your center console. It houses all the linkages and parts that make the movements of your hand on the knob move the cables in the correct direction.
Shifter Linkages: The plastic pieces that attach to the ends of the cables. These are used to calibrate the shifter to its “home” position.
Shift Tower: The cast aluminum piece that bolts onto the top of your transmission and its containments. It houses another shaft which is pushed up and down and rotated by the cables to put the car into gear, along with some bearings and a locking pin, which locks the transmission into “home” position.
Cable Bracket: This is the black steel bracket that sits atop your transmission. Attached by 3 bolts to provide no relative motion between the sheaths of the shifter cables and the transmission.
Useful video on linkage calibration done by dieselgeek: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo
There are some things that you can do to make your shifter feel more solid. Here they are from most effective to least effective as reported by other VW enthusiasts.
#1 – Shift lever socket cup replacement
Part Number: 1K0711699
Cost: ~$8-9 + shipping
Where to buy: ECS Tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES316522/)
How-to: Disconnect the shift linkages from the transmission. Just take off the two clips, you don't have to mess with recalibration. Then use a torx on the retention plate screws. From there, pull UP on the gear shift with one hand and pull the bushing out with the other. You may need to pry it out with some sort of tool.
Right underneath your shift boot, there is a plastic looking ball and a plastic looking cup that provides a pivot for the shift lever. Over the years this ball and cup can degrade. I think replacing the ball requires a new shift lever, but replacing of the cup is not too bad.
Here is a picture of the cup, part # 1K0711699 (1K0711699A is also a part number that you may stumble upon. My local VW dealer said that the P/N without the A is the one that I want, and that decision was confirmed by ECS Tuning. The 1K0711699A P/N is for MKV cars, I believe, but don’t take me up on that. Definitely confirm what part you need before ordering.)
#2 – Shift tower Bushing Replacement
Part Number: Bearing - 02A311648C ; Seal - 02A301227M ; Washer - 02A301320B
Cost: ~$25 + shipping
Where to buy: IDparts (http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2281) or ECS Tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271531/ --- http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271382/ --- http://www.ecstuning.com/ES271393/)
How-to: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-amp-Bushing-Repair&p=78934588#post78934588
This is the bearing inside your shift tower that the gear selector shaft rides in. This, too can wear out over time. Replacing this part is pretty simple given you have the skills, and not too expensive either. Many report that this really tightens up the shifting quite a bit.
#3 – Shifter end linkage stiffening
Part Number: N/A
Cost: $26+
Where to buy:
Speedsource Solid Brass inserts $26 + shipping http://speed-source.net/?wpsc-product=vwaudi-shifter-bushings
42 Draft Designs aluminum inserts with brass bushings $35 + shipping http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bushing-Set--Mk4-56S-MY02-05_p_279.html
034 Motorsport replacement end linkages with high density rubber $110 + shipping http://store.034motorsport.com/shift-linkage-bushing-pair-density-line-mkiv-vw-5-6-speed.html
How-to: Remove end links as shown in re-calibration video at beginning of thread. Remove old rubber, reinstall with stiffened bushings in place.
#4 – Cable Bracket Bushing stiffening
Part Number: N/A
Cost: $25+
Where to buy:
42 Draft Designs $25 + shipping http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bracket-Bushings_p_749.html
Virdict Motosports $26 + shipping http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0100
ForceFed Engineering $34.99 + shipping http://store.forcefedengineering.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FFE_PE_SHIFT
How-to: Pretty simple stuff, just unbolt bracket, remove old rubber bushings, and reinstall with updated bushings.
#5 – Other possibilities
Other parts in the shift box can wear out and cause play and sloppiness in your shifter.
- Transmission relay lever plastic guide. To my knowledge can only be bought with whole relay and end linkage assembly as shown here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Drivetrain/View_All/ES4526/
- Shift box relay lever bushings. These bushings are the following part numbers: left - 1K0711067 --- right - 1K0711067A. These can also be bought at ECS Tuning.
EXTRA ITEMS WORTH MENTIONING:
Dieselgeek Sigma 6 short shifter(plays with lever lengths on transmission side): http://www.dieselgeek.com/5_Speed_VW_Short_Shifter_p/ss-sigma5.htm
B&M short shifter (replaces shift lever): http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=precision-sport-shifter-audi-and-vw
How to for removing and replacing a shift lever from B&M installation instructions: http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45114.pdf
So hopefully this clears some things up. I have a bunch of parts on the way, and I will update this thread with results as I install the parts. I made my own aluminum cable bracket bushing set, and ordered a new shifter cup, 42DD end linkage bushings, new shift tower bearing and seals, and also new shift box relay lever bushings. I'm also going to cut about 1" off of the top of my shift lever.
EDIT: I guess its worth stating that I am not involved or related to any of the companies listed above. I have personally used 034 Motorsport, 42 Draft Designs, ECS tuning, and IDparts and have nothing but great things to say about them. For the rest of the companies, you are on your own.
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