GTA2056V on my 1Z B4, it's running! I've got questions =)

kooyajerms

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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
shortysclimbin said:
Did you replace your tranny mount or rear engine mount with something stiffer? I get those vibrations close to that at those rpms but it goes away after that. It is because of my poly tranny mount. Check your mounts, a bad one could also cause it. Also take a hockey puck and a jack use the puck to issolate the tranny from the jack and apply a little (key on the little) pressure to it in different spots. I do this and push the car into its rpm range of vibrations to see if I can find which side/ area it is coming from. good luck
I'd like to blame the mounts, if they did this before the turbo install Kyle. I can check this I guess, gotta find me a hockey puck! Mounts are all original stock.

jsrmonster said:
I had a harmonic balancer squealing like a pig on my boy's pumped up A3. Swapped out another one and fixed the mysterious noise that I thought was exhaus/boost leak.

If your compressor wheel is nicked or blades symmetrically curled over, it will squeal too on tip-in.

Jeff
Balancer is new, but if it did cause it, man the engine sure is vibrating fierce enough to rattle my dash.
Blades look good on compressor. No wierd shaft movement either.

I really thought cutting those nubs off and retightening was gonna fix it, not!:mad:

I'm gonna pull my hair out.
 

D_Bat

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1998 Jetta TDI
You can hear my squeeking in this video. I figured out mine was a squeek from the flange I made. It's not perfectly flat and the gasket I used is doing the reed affect like described before. I poured water over the leaking area and it would change in tone. I could also feel the exhaust leaking out pretty well at idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh3eRIBQDds
 

kooyajerms

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Location
Pomona, Southern California
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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
We put it on stands, and ran it in 2nd 3rd 4th, up to the 3000 rpm range.

You cannot hear the vibration from the front of the vehicle. Maybe it's the loud roar of the engine, but you can't hear the difference. If you go back into the vehicle you can chase the sound at 3k. It's there in the cabin, it's not out there in the engine bay.

You cannot see the difference at 3k. Nothing shakes violently, the pipes vibrate just a bit, but nothing is hitting against anything.

The Cat is not hitting against the shielding, nor is the downpipe hitting the steering rack or drive shafts.

Last thing was that big block that the b4 has to isolate vibration under the driveshaft. I installed it last night and hoped and prayed that wasn't the problem the whole time. It wasn't. Whew!

Something is transferring the sound directly to my frame... Or the turbo is imbalanced. I have yet to try to motor mount isolation trick Kyle brought up. Totally forgot about it while we were checking everything else =(.

Anyone have a jeep turbo laying around? (not you budweiser;))
 

shortysclimbin

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Sounds like it is in cabin or it could be that rear transmission mount. Your boost pressures are all over the place though... Tune it ;)

Try my trick then I would start pulling apart some of the dash to see if you can find anything loose... It is really hard to tell over the video where it is. If you need use a doctors stethoscope (or however you spell it). Cut off the end and put a metal pipe or hard plastic one on it. That way you can trace the vibrations.
 

hgeittmann

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Jeremy, have you added a vacuum reservoir to your system yet? If the noise is in the cabin, any chance it's the fresh air/recirc flap making it? if you've got the recirc button pressed, that flap should be closed (actuated w/ vacuum) even w/ the fan off. Do you still get that noise in fresh air mode? I'm thinking the N75 releasing vacuum to the vnt actuator might also be releasing vacuum to everything else (brakes & fresh air/recirc solenoid).
 

kooyajerms

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Pomona, Southern California
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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Hi Hans,

Yes I just installed the vacuum reservoir this week. It's attached to two t clamps that hold one of the intercooler pipes hehe =)

Interesting. I'll see if the recirc flap being closed makes a difference. It's been in fresh air mode for the most part if I remember correctly. Early on though I had it closed because of the fumes from the header burning off residual cutting fluid. I've got my doubts though.

Dang, and I liked your idea too.
 

kooyajerms

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Pomona, Southern California
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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
I don't know what I did, but it's gone. It just went away out of nowhere.
Blades look fine, no FOD. All I know is, the resonance is at 3k, but there is no more of that horrible rattle. Maybe one of my rubber isolation items started working (read different sized rubber fuel lines). I'm super happy, but it's just really strange!

Time to get some tuning. I got on it today and saw a nice 24psi boost spike with the emp gauge pegging 50! We'll see what we are up to.

3bar map sensor going in today.

It's too bad my thread turned into vibration chasing. Hope someone can benefit from some of this.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

TDIsyncro

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kooyajerms said:
I don't know what I did, but it's gone. It just went away out of nowhere. ...

Time to get some tuning. I got on it today and saw a nice 24psi boost spike with the emp gauge pegging 50! We'll see what we are up to.
Good to hear it got better. btw, if you are hitting 50psi EMP at 24psi boost during spool up, you may want to adjust the stop screw in a touch. That is a bit on the high side for the boost level. You should be able to limit it to high 30's to low 40's and still have great spool.
 

kooyajerms

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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
I adjusted the actuator to start closing at 3"hg and stop moving at the high end of 19-20"hg

EMP is down to 1:1-1:25:1 and your right Louis. The spool is still pretty good. Duty cycle seems a bit low though, I may adjust it to be more to be 1.5:1

If my clutch allowed me, I'd be doing more WOT so I could actually get Mark a full log.

Other issue is, my lack of cluster seems to affect the tune because the VSS is not working correctly. Getting on and off the throttle, the car sputters at first tip in and let off (my scangauge shows no mph). But other than that, it runs fine.
 

O.C.TDI

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What Syncro is saying is that your vanes are being allowed to close too much, thus increasing the EMP. This doesn't have much to do with the actuator, it is the stop screw for the VNT lever. You need to turn the stop screw in a little bit. You can use channel 11 in basic settings to fine tune the stop screw. You are risking blowing up your turbo, if you don't do anything.

The car stumbles on tip in because the vanes are choking the exhaust.
 

kooyajerms

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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
It's pretty much impossible to turn that screw while the car is running. The only way to get to it is to detach the actuator bracket and slide it over.

Here is Alex's how-to. Can we at least confirm I need to turn the screw in clockwise so the actuator rod hits the stop screw earlier? I guess I'll be turning it 1/4 turns putting the actuator back and repeating?

Since I adjusted the actuator rod... should I go back to where I was before? I'm just not sure where is the right place to have it at, before I start touching the stop screw.


majesty78 said:
Easiest way to set up vanes is to use VAGCOM and EMP gauge.

Switch VAGCOM to engine, basic setting, measuring block 11 and start.

Then the duty cycle of N75 will start to switch between 0 and 100 percent while idle goes up to 1400rpm.

Now, with adjusting the 'closed position' stop screw you find out the point, when there is no more increase of boost but increase of EMP.

Then adjust back to the point of best boost and lowest EMP.

Between full open and full closed vanes you should see about 80-100mbar difference.

Regards, Alex
 

O.C.TDI

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Adjusting the stop will only stop the vanes. The actuator sounds like it is about right. 2-5in~16-22in.

Alex's method worked for me, of course when I set mine up I was pretty much dead on, I did adjust mine a tiny bit though.

I would start with a half turn and see what that gets you. Take it out for a drive and see what the initial EMP spike hits. Keep adjusting it in (clockwise) until that initial spike is at 30-40psi.

That stinks you have to disassemble to adjust, but once it is set it shouldn't need to be touched again.
 

kooyajerms

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Pomona, Southern California
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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Looks like I need to take the turbo off to touch that stop screw... ugh.
Use a 2mm allen wrench or use a 6mm deep socket on that sucker?
It's gonna rain the whole week and I don't have a garage. I really don't want to pull the turbo to adjust the stop screw to find I need to adjust it again, and again.


dbw pic

The car stumbles on tip in because the vanes are choking the exhaust.
This didn't happen before the cluster failed (and the turbo was installed way before that)... I'm gonna hope it's not the case that the vanes are too closed. Wouldn't I see the emp spike at that point if the exhaust was choking (higher pressure)?

Let's say that's the case at the moment.

Didn't my adjustment of the actuator rod reducing emps to 1.25-1.5:1 fix the issue?
 

O.C.TDI

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kooyajerms said:
Time to get some tuning. I got on it today and saw a nice 24psi boost spike with the emp gauge pegging 50! We'll see what we are up to.
This is what I based my suggestion off of. If your pegging a 50psi gauge the vanes are closing too much. That initial spike on the EMP gauge should be closer to 30-40psi.
 
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O.C.TDI

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Wrenches: Both, the 6mm nut is a jamb nut, then use the 2mm to adjust, then reset the jamb nut. It looks like if you disconnect/remove the actuator it should be easy to adjust.
 

kooyajerms

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97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
There's no intake manifold there. Gotta take the turbo down to get the intake off. Or it's another 3 hour debacle of horribly positioned intake bolts.

I'll try a deep socket.
 

bikeprof

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Jeremy: Now you know why I procrastinate about getting my turbo running properly, 'cause the turbo is in the way!
!&%$@#*@?, that turbo!

PS. I am back in the good 'ol USA!
 

jsrmonster

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Don't adjust the stop screw unless you have the turbo apart on the bench, and you know what you are doing, or if your turbo came from an aftermarket rebuilder other that garrett/honeywell approved. This adjustment is for weld tolerance on the lever, and only needs adjusted once at the factory during build/manufacture.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1826440&postcount=4

Jeff

edit, If you must adjust I would start by adjusting cw 1/2 turn increments, towards the lever. This will reduce the turbo's overall efficiency and reduce it's spool time, but it won't close vanes causing undesired high backpressure. Other way ccw, will cause huge lag out of the hole bigtime backpressure. I can usually tell if this screw is wrong by the sound of the exhaust and the way the turbo spools. Improperly adjusted cw too much will usually give laging boost on cruise control, just like nicked teeth on exhaust wheel. And too much ccw is like a potato in the tail pipe, until it begins to spool slowly, and bango, it hits very hard soon as the vanes begin to move. It's always pointing too much to the tip of the blade, and not enough to the axle to vent. Overboost also is normal behavior with ccw adjustment, just like having a tiny turbo with overfueling, nowhere for exhaust to go.
 
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kooyajerms

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Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Did some more research before touching the stop screw.

Jeff, the only reason it makes sense in my situation is because of the reclocking of the turbo, and the degree of error that may be there.


I checked the basic settings of block 11.

This is what I get (with emp at 1:1.5 spikes) with the turbo in a regular position without too much lag.
989.4mbar on with 0 duty cycle.
979.2mbar off with 99.6% duty cycle.

If I lengthen the actuator rod and do the test again (with emp at 1:1.25) and it being smokey and laggy.
948.6mbar on with 0 duty cycle
938.4mbar off with 99.6% duty cycle.


With the change that I'm seeing, doesn't that mean I need to turn the stop screw CCW to allow the change from duty cycle on and off to be 100mbar? (80-100mbar difference between cycles is preferred). But this goes against the suggested 1/2 CW turn to reduce emp.

Unless I'm understanding it as, the mbar should be 100mbar lower with 0 duty cycle (the numbers should be reversed in my case. My numbers are flip flopped and that's why I need to turn it in). This makes more sense to me.

So what I should be doing is:
1: shortening the rod 1/8 a turn on the actuator (to keep duty cycle in the 75to90% range)
2: turning the stop screw 1/2 and to see if the mbar with 0 duty cycle is 80mbar below the number that shows up at 100% duty cycle.


Is that right?
 
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