Gone Golfing

[JonA]

Alrighty, time to deal with my turbo issue. Tomorrow, I'll test the N75, actuator rod length, vacuum, etc. following burpod's guide. Will also probably try to pull off the cold air intake (if that's the easier one? haven't bothered to get smart about boost yet since nothing's ever gone wrong for me in the past) and poke at the turbine. Have been poking around for a cheap, local VNT15 or 17 in case the turbo's blown, though I desperately want to buy burpod's GTD2060VZ... I need a reliable, registered, inspected car now and have 0 in my fleet. Fun stuff later. GTD2060VZ, if you can hear me, I'll come back for you.

 

[spifflifkin]

I think I'll go with the zip ties over the band clamps since I think most of the tabs are still serviceable on my new(er) door cards, but the band clamps idea is great if they're totally gone.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the door cards work for you. A while ago I bought some door card covers from EBay. They are cloth and don't seem like they will fit very well. So, I ordered a leather set from EBay last week. Hopefully those will be a bit better.

Good luck with the turbo troubleshooting. @burpod's guides are awesome!

 

[burpod]

a vnt17 from xman is pretty cheap and will be bolt-on. could certainly get some of your $$ back on it if you dont put much mileage on it before upgrading, so you wouldn't be out much, as opposed to messing around with some used turbo that may or may not cause you headaches and a bunch of wasted time

 

[JonA]

Before testing anything, I was popping the vac lines off the N75, the hoses were in universally bad shape. Splits and cracks all over. So I ran down to O'Reilly yet again, grabbed as much tubing as they had, and replaced everything. Tried to replace a couple tees and wyes, but there was only one of each in the assortment pack that fit. Better than nothing I suppose. Test drove, no smoke, but I could still hear the turbo spooling up far too high if I put the pedal down. Took a graph of everything boost related I could think of and I saw that requested and actual boost deviated pretty decently. CSV here if you're interested, but I got to thinking... sounds like maybe there's a bit of a hiss in there too, like a boost leak. Well, here's the hard pipe to the intercooler:

Yeah, looks like a sort of patch job, through which I could feel a nice breeze. So I'm thinking that solves that mystery. Will pick up one of these shortly, in the meantime... let's see what I can come up with to patch it...

Edit: maybe this would be a good time to go FMIC... hmmmm...

Another: actually this looks like a pretty good route...

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

I love finding a glaring issue, makes the troubleshooting train a lot shorter... I hope it cures *all* your issues when you change it!

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Well hey... is this the one? NJ is not far.

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/fs-1-8t-pancake-pipe.535734/

 

[J_dude]

Before testing anything, I was popping the vac lines off the N75, the hoses were in universally bad shape. Splits and cracks all over. So I ran down to O'Reilly yet again, grabbed as much tubing as they had, and replaced everything. Tried to replace a couple tees and wyes, but there was only one of each in the assortment pack that fit. Better than nothing I suppose. Test drove, no smoke, but I could still hear the turbo spooling up far too high if I put the pedal down. Took a graph of everything boost related I could think of and I saw that requested and actual boost deviated pretty decently. CSV here if you're interested, but I got to thinking... sounds like maybe there's a bit of a hiss in there too, like a boost leak. Well, here's the hard pipe to the intercooler:

Yeah, looks like a sort of patch job, through which I could feel a nice breeze. So I'm thinking that solves that mystery. Will pick up one of these shortly, in the meantime... let's see what I can come up with to patch it...

Edit: maybe this would be a good time to go FMIC... hmmmm...

Another: actually this looks like a pretty good route...

I successfully repaired about a 3/8” hole in one of those boost tubes with JB weld and three layers of mesh/screen. One layer of some 1/4” steel mesh and two layers window screen lol.
Pressure tested with no leaks.

 

[burpod]

I successfully repaired about a 3/8” hole in one of those boost tubes with JB weld and three layers of mesh/screen. One layer of some 1/4” steel mesh and two layers window screen lol.
Pressure tested with no leaks.

always have to have jb-weld on hand lol comes in so handy

 

[spifflifkin]

eah, looks like a sort of patch job, through which I could feel a nice breeze. So I'm thinking that solves that mystery.

That's awesome that you found the problem!

 

[JonA]

I love finding a glaring issue, makes the troubleshooting train a lot shorter... I hope it cures *all* your issues when you change it!

Doesn't make one feel especially clever, but the relief of it being a simple fix balances it out!

With the issue identified and solutions readily (and inexpensively) available (thanks for the tips Cream Dolphin and J_dude!), I'll head to CT today to pick up a set of Open Road Tuning coilovers I found on Facebook marketplace a while back. Very much looking forward to smoothing out the ride, and maybe getting a little more clearance. I'm always worried about the speedbumps around Rhode Island, or potholes as they call them in other places.

 

[burpod]

Doesn't make one feel especially clever, but the relief of it being a simple fix balances it out!

With the issue identified and solutions readily (and inexpensively) available (thanks for the tips Cream Dolphin and J_dude!), I'll head to CT today to pick up a set of Open Road Tuning coilovers I found on Facebook marketplace a while back. Very much looking forward to smoothing out the ride, and maybe getting a little more clearance. I'm always worried about the speedbumps around Rhode Island, or potholes as they call them in other places.

my personal opinion is you'd be better off with bilstein HDs + some good OE-like springs lesforders/supplex from idparts/fcpeuro.

PVD area has some of the ****tiest roads (for like the last 20+ yrs i can remember) anywhere...lol. ugh. been in a constant state of construction for yeeeeeeears....

 

[JonA]

Boost leak fixed! I like the look of this much more, and it's easier to replace. Didn't fit exactly right, had to flex some rubber a little bit, but I didn't need to do any cutting and it seems to work just fine. Cost me $97.77 in parts from Amazon and eBay:

• CXRacing 2" 45 Degree Universal Alum Mandrel Bent Polished Pipe 2.0mm Thick Tube
• Auto Dynasty 2 inches 90 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Silicone Hose (Black)
• Auto Dynasty 2 inches To 2.5 inches 45 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Reducer Silicone Hose (Black)
• T Bolt Hose Clamp 2 1/2 Inch, MinerGuy Stainless Steel, Working Range 70mm-78mm for 2.5" Hose ID, Turbo Intake Intercooler Clamp, 4 Pack
• T Bolt Hose Clamp 2 Inch, MinerGuy Stainless Steel, Working Range 57mm - 65mm for 2" Hose ID, Turbo Intake Intercooler Hose Clamp, 4 Pack

Also discovered why the old pipe had to be patched originally, when I put a temp replacement on this weekend, the plastic hard pipe popped out of the rubber tube to the IC and rubbed on the alternator a little bit. Seems the band clamp had stripped out. Issue resolved.

But do I hear an exhaust leak now? Hmmm... Maybe this fix will reveal other issues...

 

[GlowBugTDI]

my personal opinion is you'd be better off with bilstein HDs + some good OE-like springs lesforders/supplex from idparts/fcpeuro.

PVD area has some of the ****tiest roads (for like the last 20+ yrs i can remember) anywhere...lol. ugh. been in a constant state of construction for yeeeeeeears....

@JonA I agree with burpod. I love my bilstein HD's. Some people claim they are too rough of a ride, but I haven't found that to be the case. They hold up well and are definitely stiff, but if your a spirited driver its worth it. It's like having BMW handling in a old VW. More reliable then a beemer too!
While your at it if you haven't already.
+ TT control arm bushings
+ rear beam bushings
+ good quality dogbone mount
All of these will drastically improve how the car drives if they are original.

 

[J_dude]

Boost leak fixed! I like the look of this much more, and it's easier to replace. Didn't fit exactly right, had to flex some rubber a little bit, but I didn't need to do any cutting and it seems to work just fine. Cost me $97.77 in parts from Amazon and eBay:

• CXRacing 2" 45 Degree Universal Alum Mandrel Bent Polished Pipe 2.0mm Thick Tube
• Auto Dynasty 2 inches 90 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Silicone Hose (Black)
• Auto Dynasty 2 inches To 2.5 inches 45 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Reducer Silicone Hose (Black)
• T Bolt Hose Clamp 2 1/2 Inch, MinerGuy Stainless Steel, Working Range 70mm-78mm for 2.5" Hose ID, Turbo Intake Intercooler Clamp, 4 Pack
• T Bolt Hose Clamp 2 Inch, MinerGuy Stainless Steel, Working Range 57mm - 65mm for 2" Hose ID, Turbo Intake Intercooler Hose Clamp, 4 Pack

That’s pretty cool, looks really good. Maybe you could do a little write-up on that, I’d bet some folks would be interested.
I also wonder if a hump 45 would fit and flex a little better on that joint at the intercooler or if it would just be too big?

 

[JonA]

Got the idea from krousej's thread here! It was simple enough, the only bit I really fiddled around with was getting the spring clamp off the intercooler end, I ended up sawing through it a bit, then stuffing a pry bar under one end and then pushing it off with a pry bar from the other end like so:

I'm not very familiar with this stuff so dumb question, is this a hump 45?

Krousej has a 2" to 2.5" 45deg from the intercooler to the pipe, but it is a bit short. I would like something that is just a few inches longer on either end and a little bit tighter of a bend. This looks like it might just do the trick, and allow for more flex between the engine and IC which I assume would be good for longevity. Pretty expensive from this website though, and they don't have 2" to 2.5"... think I'll do some more digging on that eventually.

 

[Sting]

Before testing anything, I was popping the vac lines off the N75, the hoses were in universally bad shape. Splits and cracks all over. So I ran down to O'Reilly yet again, grabbed as much tubing as they had, and replaced everything. Tried to replace a couple tees and wyes, but there was only one of each in the assortment pack that fit. Better than nothing I suppose. Test drove, no smoke, but I could still hear the turbo spooling up far too high if I put the pedal down. Took a graph of everything boost related I could think of and I saw that requested and actual boost deviated pretty decently. CSV here if you're interested, but I got to thinking... sounds like maybe there's a bit of a hiss in there too, like a boost leak. Well, here's the hard pipe to the intercooler:



Yeah, looks like a sort of patch job, through which I could feel a nice breeze. So I'm thinking that solves that mystery. Will pick up one of these shortly, in the meantime... let's see what I can come up with to patch it...

Edit: maybe this would be a good time to go FMIC... hmmmm...

Another: actually this looks like a pretty good route...

Hei Jon... I've been thinking of doing my tubing as well as a preventative... what kind did you use? Or is it better idea to get the OEM tubing (or close to)?

 

[JonA]

Hi Sting, I was in a hurry so I ran down to O'Reilly and bought what they had that was close to my measurements. There were two sizes of tubing on mine, here are my measurements:

• grey tube: 10mm OD, 5mm ID
• black tube: 8mm OD, 4mm ID

Those corresponded with these that O'Reilly had:

• Gates Windshield Washer/Vacuum Hose - 27043
• Gates Windshield Washer/Vacuum Hose - 27042

Eventually I'd like to put fabric wrapped lines in that are like the OEM ones, as well as brass tees and wyes in but O'Reilly didn't have them. This stuff seems to be working just fine (though I haven't vacuum tested, will grab my tester from home this evening).

 

[Sting]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[Nuje]

The stuff sold by idparts is 3mm and 5mm ID, respectively, for small and large. Not saying 4mm won't work, just sayin'....

Also, if you're not pressed for time, you can buy a few cars' worth of the silicone stuff from Aliexpress (in your choice of designer colours, nonetheless) for peanuts - lately stuff from there has been getting to me in just under two weeks.

 

[JonA]

Definitely possible that my old tubes were so crappy that they gave when I was measuring w/ calipers, @Sting just making sure you see what Nuje has to say.

 

[Sting]

The stuff sold by idparts is 3mm and 5mm ID, respectively, for small and large. Not saying 4mm won't work, just sayin'....

Also, if you're not pressed for time, you can buy a few cars' worth of the silicone stuff from Aliexpress (in your choice of designer colours, nonetheless) for peanuts - lately stuff from there has been getting to me in just under two weeks.

Can I use the silicone stuff to do all the lines... vacuum and the lines between the injectors (mine still has all the fabric coated stuff)... or for the injectors do I need something else? Thanks!

My car is running fine, but I haven't replaced any lines in the 4 years I've owned the car and I'm not sure when they last would have been done.

 

[BobnOH]

Silicone good for the vacuum tubes. Injector lines need to be Viton or equal.

 

[J_dude]

Got the idea from krousej's thread here!

Ohh right I’d forgotten about that one.

I'm not very familiar with this stuff so dumb question, is this a hump 45?

Yeah something like that might fit.

 

[Nuje]

Can I use the silicone stuff to do all the lines... vacuum and the lines between the injectors (mine still has all the fabric coated stuff)... or for the injectors do I need something else? Thanks!

Yes - definitely do NOT use the silicone stuff on the little fuel return lines between injectors. I did that once. And they worked great until I was 500km from home and we started smelling diesel inside the cabin. Lifted the hood and saw diesel dripping out of all of those. Little zip ties held them kinda good enough to get to an auto-parts place to get some "low pressure ⅛" fuel line" (is what you're looking for - Lordco has it on a roll in the back).
Or I just bought a 25' roll of it, too.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Beware, some viton is not diesel rated. Make sure it is when you buy it

 

[braddies]

...though I desperately want to buy burpod's GTD2060VZ... I need a reliable, registered, inspected car now and have 0 in my fleet. Fun stuff later. GTD2060VZ, if you can hear me, I'll come back for you.

Sounds like fun, also just found out that muchboost has a GTE2260vz

 

[JonA]

Finally getting back to playing with my car now that hers is on the road... Spent Monday doing the zip tie fix to my two front door cards. Did not go great from a fit and finish perspective, a lot of the tabs were in such poor shape that it was pretty limited how much zip tying I was able to do... on the other hand, it's a good deal better than before. I may revisit the BDCIFS concept when I have more patience and time on my hands... or maybe I'll just live with it not being quite perfect.

All said and done though, the black leather door cards are a hundred times better than the old falling apart ones (anyone need some kinda cruddy duotone door cards?). The guy I bought these off of was a treasure. Every single screw, switch, and clip was bagged individually for each door card. All mounting points intact. I gotta reach out to the guy and let him know how great he is if he isn't already aware.

Also put the seat I bought off @braddies in (thanks!) and I'm suuuper happy about it. One of my favorite little features of my Mk5 Jetta was that the front passenger seat back folded down flat. So great for picking up nice furniture found on the side of the road. Now I've got that feature back! Add to that it's so much more comfy, and looks practically new. Props to braddies!

Now I'm starting to think I might actually try to swap the interior for black, to match my seats and doors, but it's so hard to find 4dr Golfs that are getting parted out, so interior probably won't change too much for a while. Seriously thought about buying up csstevej's Golf... but I have two cars and she has one... if I sell this Jetta and he's still got it though...

Next up will be a couple light mods in the engine area. The coming weeks are pretty busy, but hoping I can find some time to get out to burpod's in the next 2-3 to pick up a pancake pipe I bought off GlowBugTDI, plus an 11mm IP and .260s Guthrie added to his last order for me. Looking forward to getting those in and getting a tune!

 

[CantWrite]

Are you planning to sound deaden the car at all? I’m slowly doing that and it’s true, you deaden one part and now you notice things you’ve never heard before. It could be a never ending quest but by God I’ve found the internet’s end!!

I’m also a fan of Bilstein HD’s as every possible route leaving my house is curvy for at least 17 miles. Although some expansion joints have a more noticeable thud.

I also miss the MK4 platform, or maybe it’s that elusive 50+ mpg’s that my B5.5 will never get too that I miss more.

I agree with the others. It’s nice to see a restoration!

 

[JonA]

Absolutely am planning to do some sound deadening, currently hearing a lot more than usual without the headliner in. I'll try to acquire a black carpet, pick up a couple of Kufatec wiring harnesses, and then all in one go tear the interior out, replace heater core / blend door / trim / run wires / install sound deadening wherever possible. That might be a next spring / summer task at this point, I think my Q4 budget is going to go toward performance / tune stuff, as well as rust prevention.

@CantWrite, what material are you using for sound deadening / how do you like it? I know you're in an 05 wagon but if you have any tips about locations that are especially helpful, I'm sure it's not that different. I'm thinking big ones are probably going to be inside of door skins, firewall, and ceiling before putting headliner back?

I'm not sure whether it's mostly nostalgia or the merits of the platform, but I really love the Mk4 too. My first two cars were Mk4 Jetta TDIs. I learned to drive on my dad's, and first started wrenching on the first one I bought. Hadn't been interested in driving at all up to that point, but I fell in love with that car.

I've seen some discussions where folks talk about NVH etc... and yes, the stock ride is better in newer VWs... but I love the relatively minimal electronics and wiring, and the combination of simplicity and comfort (not to mention how inexpensive most parts are these days). I've been in a lot of much newer (non-VW cars) that are missing features that our Mk4s have. I think that's one of the things that makes this generation so long-lived; even though it's an old economy car, it's always been a bit ahead of the competition in terms of polish.

Anyway, also on the list: pick up a bunch of Waxoyl Hardwax Plus and Waxoyl Power Shield to coat the ever-living **** out of every crevice of both the Golf and Touareg before the first snowflake falls. That's gonna be fun. It's crazy how clean this car is, there isn't a speck of rust in the rockers and I'm going to be fighting to keep it that way. After I coat the insides of the rockers, I might try to block off the front end to reduce possible incursion...

 

[CantWrite]

what material are you using for sound deadening / how do you like it? I know you're in an 05 wagon but if you have any tips about locations that are especially helpful, I'm sure it's not that different. I'm thinking big ones are probably going to be inside of door skins, firewall, and ceiling before putting headliner back?

I bought from SDS (sound deadener showdown) before he retired and closed his doors. But I find Second Skin Audio to be a valuable resource for how to’s and I am sure their products are top notch. I’ve always stuck with the “buy once cry once” mantra when I want to make sure something lasts or needs quality.

As I have read a lot on the subject I am by no means an expert. But the general rule:

1. Use CLD tiles or the like to lower resonant frequency of the metal panels.
2. Use a foam product to absorb sound if you have the space. Open cell is better than closed cell here.
3. Use a closed cell foam (won’t absorb water) to decouple (separate) things that vibrate.