Golf MK4 Manual swap

[sisten]

Hey!

Since my automatic transmission decided to give up today, i was thinking of manual swapping it. I know its a pretty hard process, need a lot of parts etc. But my main question is which manual transmission would fit me? I own a 2002 MK4 1.9tdi 74kw.

 

[PakProtector]

It is a matter of 5 or 6 speeds. and then of course picking ones with long gearing; in case of 5sp either EGR or EUH. 6Spd I have not memorized the codes yet. 5sp is 228mm clutch, and 6sp is 240mm...but read around about going from DMF to SMF flywheels on the 6sp...not quite a Confirmed Good Idea yet...
cheers,
Douglas

 

[csstevej]

It’s really not a hard process, and in my opinion not a lot of parts needed.

Clutch pedal with line, and nuts to fasten it.

Clutch kit , I went with a vr6/G60 setup

Tranny with manual tranny mount , I kept my auto axles and just changed out the transmission out put flanges to the 108 MM ones.

Reverse switch connector with about 6” of wire to splice.

A 53 relay.

Shifter assy with cable ends .

Might be one or two small items.

You can swap out the auto nozzles to manual and get a boost in HP . Or keep the autos till you know what you wanna do. That’s why I went with the vr6 / G60 clutch setup as I later on went with a Malone stage 3 with sprint 520’s. That was over 300,xxx miles ago, car currently has 447,xxx miles on it with the same clutch even after teaching 3 kids on how to drive a manual.

And a vagcom to reprogram Ecu to manual and change IQ to between 4-5.
After the swap it will be around 2 and you’ll get slowdown shutter.

 

[PakProtector]

And this looks like The Way:
how to adjust iq with vag com. | TDIClub Forums

Now how far down can VAG-Com take it down?
cheers,
Douglas

 

[benmarks]

I'd recommend considering a 6-speed "02M" transmission. There are a few places that sell entire kits, including the extras for an auto-to-manual swap. Here is one example.

Whether you get an 02M or the stock 02J, there are a number of different transmission codes and gear ratios. You aren't limited to a 74kW/PD100 transmission. The 96kW/PD130 and 110kW/PD150 parts will work too. These links can give you a lot of this info, including the TDI-specific gearboxes:

02M: https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...n_code_assembly_allocation_ratios_capacities/

02J: https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...letters_gearbox_allocation_ratios_capacities/

 

[tgray]

The hardest part is to swap the transmission and the rest is just turning a few bolts. A lot of the work can be done from above which is where I like to work. I have done a few swaps and changed a lot of clutches and have really liked and had good success with the Saacs clutch kits. They work smooth and easy on the foot pedal for me. Make sure you buy new flywheel bolts and torque them correct. The enjoyment is cutting the transmission plug and computer off because you will not need that anymore.

 

[PakProtector]

I think I am going to disagree with you tgray...I have most of the mechanicals done by now, and there is the clutch/starter interlock's wiring. There is not much room under there and where the instructions say cut this wire and splice or connect to another wire, swinging a cutter and crimper under there is not going to be easy... LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[tgray]

I wasn't thinking it may be harder for some on the dash part. It isn't real hard to pull the whole dash out where you can get at it all very easy- just a lot of screws and bolts. Try pulling the panels all out around the steering wheel helps to see things better if you have not done that. Also, the relay block comes down pretty easy to look at the wires with just a few nuts. That will open up the tight spots a lot and make it easier to see the wires to cut and connect.

 

[Diesel Fumes]

I think the 1.8t transmissions work too but everyone will tell you the gear ratios will make it rev too high on the highway. Maybe 2.slow trans will bolt up too. Not sure.

I had a gas transmission installed in my naturally aspirated mk2 golf diesel because I was young and dumb and figured all transmissions were the same. It made it slightly more interesting to drive but did rev high on the highway. I still kept driving it for years.

 

[PakProtector]

It could be you are right tgray...it could be indeed. I did find those nuts, and did pull the socket out. Having wired a socket or two wrong, I like easy ways to be sure… The other bit I am going to do is install a defeat for the clutch interlock; I want to be able to start this puppy in gear should the need present itself. My Dodge sure has none, and it has never gotten me into trouble in nearly a decade and a half.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[Rrusse11]

Quick Wire Splice Set, 11/18 And 14/18 Gauge, 50 Piece

Amazing deals on this 50Pc Quick Splice Set 11/18 And 14/18 Gauge at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

harborfreight.com

Just clip one of these on the sensor wire. Done. I've been running one for 4-5 years with no worries.

 

[csstevej]

Same here never put the interlock in since I did my swap..... that was 320,xxx miles ago,
Now running at 447,xxx miles

 

[Diesel Fumes]

Same here never put the interlock in since I did my swap..... that was 320,xxx miles ago,
Now running at 447,xxx miles

What's the interlock? Does that prevent the car from starting unless the clutch is pressed in? I can start mine without using the clutch. Apparently it's not easy to configure it properly?

 

[PakProtector]

Per the Instructions, it looks pretty simple to do the clutch interlock. The white switch now controls the coil of the 53 relay, with starter solenoid current going through the contacts on pins 2 and 8. The GdB instructions have the relay socket pins labeled too... Just need to find a spot to hide a switch I have not yet chosen that will short the white switch in case I want to crank w/o touching the clutch.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[PakProtector]

Alright, got a bit ov an issue...in the relay plug, it appears that pins 3 and 9 are swapped. So to say that pin 9 has the yellow/blue with continuity to the reverse switch wire, and pin 3 has the red/grey one. Pins 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 and I think 8 all match colour for location...

This is just the sort of thing that gives me a case of paralysis. help would be appreciated...

Douglas

 

[tgray]

It seems to me looking at the pin out on the diagram I see that 3 & 9 are not used anymore when you do the swap so don't worry about it and see if it all works. The only thing this relay does now after a swap is disconnect your starter from turning on unless your clutch pedal is down. Don't get lost in all the unused wires that will not go anywhere after you pull the auto ecu and trans. Are you using the 53 relay in the socket or the old one? The 53 relay is much easier to understand an connect. I can't find the link right now but if you have a way to post the diagram or the link of what you are looking at we can walk through the wires.

 

[PakProtector]

It is a question of the socket location of the red/gray wire and the blue/yellow. The colours appear to go where they should, and I have proceeded on that basis. I am likely to leave the cruise wiring on the ecm until later...but who knows...LOL I have the cruise switch ready to wire in...it is a matter of what I do with the other end of the red/gray wire.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[tgray]

Your reverse switch wire #9 yellow/blue will not go through this relay any more. Don't bother with it on the relay. The reverse switch light needs to be joined up under the hood on the trans on a different operation. Just leave it out. I am guessing the other wire can be left out as well. (as long as it doesn't go to the start circuit or coil power). All you need is 2 wires to the relay to power the coil through the clutch switch and 2 wires to a normally open switch in the relay to close in the starter circuit. Nothing else matters with the manual on this relay unless you would run the cruise through it.

 

[PakProtector]

So in Boertje's write up, the two schematics labeled 'Before' and 'After' do not match the written instructions. The 'After' pic shows the blue/yellow wire from the trans range switch for reverse, but the text says it should be red/yellow from the relay No.1( and Pin8 on the TR plug ). Then it shows the red/gray used for the cruise and the text says the blue/yellow...though it I think correctly labels that one( the blue yellow ) as being relay #9 instead of Relay#3 as it is shown in the pic...which prompted this note in the first place.

Fortunately it seems that I only *NEED the reverse lights and the white switch circuit... and I rang out the blue/yellow to the reverse switch and I know I got the relay#4 wire side connected to it. Somebody has been into Toklas' brownies while writing this perhaps.

cheers,
Douglas

 

[tgray]

When I get a chance I will check out some of my old diagrams. I remember there are a few ways to wire things on this but if you use the 53 relay it only has 4 pins (or connectors). The 2 big are used for the starter circuit and it doesn't matter which way they connect. The other 2 smaller pins are the relay coil that will run through your white switch. It doesn't matter which way they run through the relay. Then the car will start with the pedal down. The reverse light wire to the lights needs to be connected on one end of the transmission switch and the other to some kind of properly fused power wire. Some diagrams may pick up the power on the inside of the car.