Getting a bit of grind going into 3rd, potential syncho issues?

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
The last couple of days my B4 has been more difficult to shift. I thought maybe the bolt holding on the shift linkage and weight had gotten loose, but everything is tight and right where it should be. The gears are a bit harder to engage generally speaking, and 2-3 will want to grind a little if I don't take it really slowly. Synchos going out? Low fluid? Any ideas welcome.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Good idea. I'll also add, it's just as difficult to shift without clutching and the engine off. Typically one I clutch it and go through the gears they will fall right back in without clutching. Every time I go between 3 and 4 it doesn't get any smoother.
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
The shift linkage in the Mk3/B4 does eventually wear out. I ran into the same issue on my jetta. you need to replace both relay arms and do an alignment to regain clean shifts. Alternatively, 02J tower swap to fix it forever... but somewhat of an expensive fix.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I took out the shift tower for inspection. No hangup in the linkage or the tower. However, the oil doesn't smell just right and the underside of the tower had some greasy buildup on it which I cleaned up. I changed the grease 2 years and 30,000 miles ago with Lucas synthetic 75w-90. Think I'll change it again during my next engine oil change and do fresh research on what to use.

All the small holes in this plastic assembly were clogged with grease. Made me think maybe something isn't getting enough lubrication. I took the car up and down the road a couple of times and I think the shift was improving slightly. The next couple of days will prove whether that's true or not.

20210504_130746.jpg
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
I would suggest using the OEM VW gear oil as well. There is a massive thread in the A4 forum that talks about multiple gear oil alternatives and they eventually settled on the OEM stuff being the best. Not surprising.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Was your Lucas synthetic 75w90 a GL4 or a GL5?

There's a lot of discussion about not using a GL5 in VW transmissions because of the yellow metal deterioration.

I think some manufacturers finally came out and said do not use their GL5 gear oils for this purpose.

Steve
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3


Wow, I can't say I've seen it that bad before, but I had heard. That looks like liquid brass....

Steve
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
The car shifted much better after the change. It was the worst I’d seen in any car.
I would imagine it would, although I'm surprised that it wasn't on death's doorstep with that much brass gone.

At any rate, there are a number of solutions to the lack of a readily available GL4 gear lube, Penz Syncromesh coming to mind as the most readily available although IIRC not certified with a GL rating, Redline is also an option if you have time to order it, and Blauparts carries a Ravenol synth GL4 that I've used in the past with good results.

The most important thing is to not use a GL5 product, even one that says backwards compatible to GL4 (no clarity on what that actually means).

IDK if the G050 or G052 is still available from VW. If it is a person could refill with that, but I think the days of finding G05x at the dealer are gone maybe.

Steve
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
I found the G070 way too thin, even with Maine temperatures. I prefer a mix of Amzoil MTG and Syncromesh. But yes, do not use a GL5 or you'll be pouring the syncros out of the gearcase. Seen it too many times before.


this x1000. GL5 sucks. Don't use it. I don't care how many manufacturers say it's safe. Not worth it. Use synchromesh from valvoline or pennzoil. I've had it "fix" more grinding synchros than I can count.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Getting ready to change my transmission oil soon along with my engine oil. I purchased some G070 (Yes, I know it's probably going to be too thin) but I can't confirm anywhere that it isn't GL5. I'd assume it's GL4 considering VW said it's good for ALL manual transmissions, but I just wanted to confirm this before pouring it in. If I don't like it I might try some Redline.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Getting ready to change my transmission oil soon along with my engine oil. I purchased some G070 (Yes, I know it's probably going to be too thin) but I can't confirm anywhere that it isn't GL5. I'd assume it's GL4 considering VW said it's good for ALL manual transmissions, but I just wanted to confirm this before pouring it in. If I don't like it I might try some Redline.
I think you're safe with the VW product, they wouldn't be using it in their gearboxes if it was actually a GL5.

As a side note I noticed that Pennzoil is now marking their containers of the Synchromesh as consistent with GL3, so the packaging has changed and of course the cautionary language "this product is not for use in all transaxles" is mentioned several times on it.

Given the few options for trans oil for VW MT's and the non-existent GL4 products out there I think the Synchromesh would probably be fine in the 020 gearbox, maybe even the 02A also, but with Redline products still available it doesn't seem necessary to go that far yet.

Steve
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Anyone that has a decent surviving A3, B4, B3, or early A4 (anything that has the early cable shifter) with a few miles on it probably would be best served by updating the whole shifter setup to the newer and VASTLY superior 2000+ version. I'm not sure what all that entails on the earlier cars (the A4 is easy swap in, no modifications at all) but I know plenty of people have done it. And there still should hopefully be some donor cars out there (the parts can come from a gasser, the shifter doesn't matter!).

I mean it is laughable just how bad those early shifters get. I bought my '98 Jetta brand new, and I think my 590k mile 2000 Golf still shifts easier than that car did at 20k miles.

I just did this change on my '99.5, and it is wonderful.

I typically just use an OEM type fluid, lately it has been mostly a Febi branded product, but it just comes in a generic looking gray 1 liter bottle just like the VAG branded stuff. Just says SAE 75W GL-4 on the bottle, but it works great.

I know the later A4 cable ends can wear out and break, but [shameless product plug] Dieselgeek has an excellent easy-to-install set of replacement pieces for them so you needn't replace the whole cable.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
I typically just use an OEM type fluid, lately it has been mostly a Febi branded product, but it just comes in a generic looking gray 1 liter bottle just like the VAG branded stuff. Just says SAE 75W GL-4 on the bottle, but it works great.
Do you have a Febi part number for that stuff?

Thanks
Steve A
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I got the G070 in over the weekend and everything seems good. The old oil was dark and a bit smelly, so it was time to change it. Seems like a good viscosity to me - it's not noisy or anything. Shifts nice and smooth.
 
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