Hey Guys, Just imagine what this baby will be putting out after plumbing in an additional small intercooler into the post boost line? Another 15HP is there for the taking as higher boosty makes higher air temps which lowers efficency, with an additional intercooler on line, MORE FREE POWER!
Here is a link to a 1.8T gasser NB with Garrett Lim's new chip and some high speed photos on the Vortex. I'll have to duplicate this with the hypertech TURBO NB TDI, time to charge up the digital camera for some action shots again:
Pedro, regarding your inquiry as to your VNT15, closely examine all the photos of my mods and read all of the text. In the end, you are shortening the actuator lever for the Garrett VNT15 turbo to open the variable nozzle turbine sooner to increase boost. Works good with no drawbacks, unless your TDI is on a slippery surface, then the tires light up ASAP!
I have an autometer Pro Liquid filled boost gauge that I want to install in my 2000 Golf TDI, but I can't seem to find a line in the engine containing positive anything but vaccuum, now I know that there is a line that runs post intercooler to the ECU, but where is it, which side of the firewall (R or L) very simple question, just am not to familiar with these A4's. One more question is the one turn to the left on the VNT actuator a good idea w/out a WETT chip or Tuning Box, and what boost does this motor run at in stock form? Skypup probably knows this one (if not all of them). Thanks again,
There is no pressure line going to the ECU on A4 TDI's, only electrical hookups. The brass diaphram controller on the Garrett VNT15 turbo has a vacuum pulsed line coming from a solenoid under electric control from the ECU.
I simply punched a 0.5mm hole in the final intercooler tubing right before the EGR valve on the intake manifold(as on the engine photo and description) and stuck the OEM Autometer boost feed line directly about 2mm into the hole, then slopped "GOOP" around the hole and tube to seal it. Crude but effective. For a better set up, you will have to remove the hard plastic intercooler pipe from the intercooler itself to the intake manifold (not an easy job as you will see) and then drill out a hole to install a regular tap valve for the OEM Autometer setup. I did not do that as it was a major hassle.
I don't know what the VNT mod is like w/o a Wett chip. Stock OEM turbo boost max is about 13-14 PSI, WETT changes that to 15-16 but in a different way (map). Install your gauge and drive around for a week or two and you will understand that the turbo is directly related to the torque alogrithim programmed into the BOSCH ECU. Wetterauer software is good for an easy 25-30% increase in power, real and perceived.
Where is a good spot to go through the firewall for the 1/8" Autometer Boost feed line? The only hole I see is below the black plastic cable channel under the airbox, but that grommet is already full and tightly sealed. Any comments?
That, my friend is another b*tch! I look long and hard taking off as much dash as possibel with virtually no luck. Finally, I simply ran the plastic tubing around the door jam, punching it under the rubber weather guard at the interface of the dash-windshield level, and ran it under the plastic winshield cowling. Sano installation, only place you can see it is when the driver door is open, put some duct tape over it there. Also, keep the line away from anything hot when routing it over the turbo & intake manifold.
Good Luck!! Check my engine photo again to see how I ran it across the engine bay under the windshield cowl.
Hi folks. Just joined up. First, a little chit chat about me, but then, I have a question.
Bought my 2000 Golf TDI about 2 weeks ago. Was originally thinking of going for a GTI, but a good friend and fellow gearhead suggested the TDI. I had never even considered it, but started doing research on the car and the mileage numbers and the fact that it was about 5 grand less were quite appealing.
So, test drive. I too am one who commutes between 5 and 8 thousand feet, with a round trip around 80 miles. On the test drive, I told the salesman I *have* to see how this thing goes up MY hill. Test drive was for over 50 miles. Up a hill and then some twisty mountain roads. I was simply shocked. "Sold". I am continually amazed at this car.
The question(s): This 'free' torque adjustment sounds perfectly reasonable. However, I only have about 600 miles on my baby so far. Do y'all think I should wait before I do that?
Also, if SkyPup is running at 3 turns... And he blows up his engine, do you think he could get away with just turning it back to factory position and going for the warranty fix, or, do you think there might be some memory that can be downloaded from the car that says 'hey, you were running 26psi, nice try'?
PS I had an 97 Golf GL 2.0 Gasser A3. (It got totalled - don't go there.) The A4 chassis is leaps and bounds ahead of that car in stiffness, and this TDI would smoke that thing off the line and at every speed, without even breathing hard. I think that's where the Turbo really makes a difference.
Hey Jeff, search the forum for the word "fraud". There was a prior discussion of the very scenario you are talking about. Also do a search for warranty, there is a lot of discussion about whether modifications of the engine will void your vehicle's warranty.
Ok Jeff, I guess you answered one of my questions, but have spurred another. Is there a search engine of some sort on this site? (Sorry all to stray off the topic. I did look.)
But, I also still have no answer if I might ought not start diddling with my boost pressure before the car has at least, what? 1000 miles? 3000 miles? Ever?
I've pulled engines in multiple vehicles, including a Porsche 928. I'm not too afraid of minor adjustments to factory settings on a new vehicle. I didn't buy a Camry here, and I intend to change my own oil. I don't look at cars as utilities and the engine bay as a sealed box.
Jeff, I see from your profile, you're an attorney. Nothing personal, but is that what made you jump to the term 'fraud'? Sheesh, this is a *performance* thread. I'm assuming we all want to _safely_ push the envelope...
Giving the engine a suitable amount of time to run in before messing with it is always a ggod idea. What's suitable? You are probably going to get as many answers as there are people. Go with what you think is good.
If you check the turbo mods info posted by others, you will find that even Skypup doesn't recommend more than 1 turn. If no other mods are performed, you will probably find that the boost comes on sooner, but the ECU will limit the max boost to the same level as pre-modification.
Also take note of the PCV hose modification as well as the intercooler cleaning comments. Apparently, even though there is a large oil separator in the valve cover, the turbo sucks harder than the separator can handle. Moving the intake plenum end of that hose is recommended in conjunction with boost modifications.
On the plus side, a diesel will be better able to use increased boost than any gas engine.
Finally, as you well know, no gains are without cost, so bear that in mind for anything you do.
Enjoy the ride!
Always interested in steep & deep
I wouldn't tinker with it until you get to 5000 miles. At that point, it would be interesting to see what this mod does to an otherwise "stock" engine. Everybody who has messed with it so far has a chipped engine. Limit the adjustment to one full turn of the "screw", though, to be on the safe side. Remember that to make a given level of boost at high altitudes requires a higher turbine speed than it does at lower rpms. The big danger up in the mountains is the possibility of over-revving the turbocharger. If you went for SkyPup's level of boost, you'd probably turn the turbo into shrapnel. These turbos are highly overengineered for our particular application, but there are practical limits to what any piece of machinery can handle.
I believe there is a tiny bit of epoxy paint on the lock nut. If a mechanic happened to notice that it's been broken off, they might question you. But what are the odds of that? Just play dumb. No need to lie. If you're busted, you're busted.
Hey Jeff, I was the one getting chastized about fraud in that thread.
The word "fraud" is a search term that will bring you to the pertinent discussion. If you'll read my response to the fraud comment you'll see that my point is that simply bringing your car back to specs isn't necessarily an act of fraud.
In response to the numerous emails, here is the low down on the Turbocharger Boost Pressure Gauge and Pod. The Oil-Filled Autometer Liquid #5404 Boost Pressure Gauge 0-35 PSI (they also produce same with metric scale too) is mounted on the A-pillar pod with an older A3 pod custom cut out with a propane torch and a hot knife. At the time of this installation, no one produced an A-pillar pod for the A4 cars, so I simply ordered an A3 pod from Neuspeed and fabricated my own. Works great and looks great too. When in doubt, simply create your own! Works for me!!
So, let me get this straight. Turn the nut on the bottom of the pic a few turns counterclockwise. Then, is it that long bar painted orange, or that embossed cylinder painted orange that gets turned one full turn counterclockwise? Then, tighten the nut.
Any other opinions (other than 5000 miles) as to when to make this adjustment. Couldn't I do it when I get the Wett at 1000-2000 miles (antone else done this)? Thanks for any help.
Just look at the photos I shot. The mod is on both my TDIs and works great, especially with the TT exhaust setup it brought it all home, AWESOME! Here is Mickey's explanation if you could not understand mine:
"Counter-clockwise" as viewed from BELOW. Look at the picture. You will be loosening the 10 mm lock nut. Loosen it
several turns. Then you will be turning the knurled adjuster IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS YOU TURNED THE LOCK
NUT. In other words, screw the ajuster "into", or "towards" the vacuum actuator at the bottom.
You'll notice from the photos that the actuator rod kind of "flares out" around the knurled adjuster. Get a sharp wax
pencil and scribe an index mark on the adjuster right next to the "flared" part of the rod. Turn the screw exactly
ONE full turn. (Or more if you want to, but I think you'd be crazy. Sorry, SkyPup!) Re-tighten the lock nut.
Don't expect miracles right off the bat. You'll notice a difference, but it takes a day or two of hard driving for the
Standard disclaimer: If your car blows up, it's NOT MY FAULT! Got it? I had nothing to do with your decision.
While trying to tackle the boost guage today, I found an unused grommet plugging a hole in the firewall. From the front of the car, it is located just above and to the left of the brake booster cylinder. It's about 1/2" in diameter and will work perfectly. Again, this is a 2000 Jetta so I'm not sure about the 99's and below.
That unused fiber grommet is what I used to access the engine compartment when I was hooking up my Euro lights.
Initially, I was unsure if it was solid or not- so I took a sharpened clothes hanger and poked it thru.
PERFECT!! I then wrapped hanger end and wire together with a minimal amount of electrical tape and put it thru. Your total diameter with hloa and wire is less than 3/16ths.
If you're REALLY fussy, you could also dab some silicone around the hole.
Given the same relative size of wire and the vacuum line, here is a solution to SkyPup's install around the A pillar.
Millenium Jetta GLS
Siver Arrow Automatic
[This message has been edited by willys (edited February 13, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by willys (edited February 13, 2000).]
I didn't see it listed in any of the posts - where did everyone tap into for their light on the guage...I can't figure out how to get the switch out of the dash....or is there something I'm missing..??
P.S. - What is the standard range of boost for a stock TDI (no turbo mods or chips)
With the switch in the off position, push straight in and turn to the right. it will only turn about 1/2 the way to the on position, then the switch will pull out with no problems at all. The wire you are looking for is the Grey/Blue. Hope this helps