DieselRacer
banned
VW has put out a bulletin about RainX washer fluid, at the dealership they said don't use it, per the parts manager....
I'm gonna pick a bottle of that up and see how it goes. $8 for concentrate that makes 7 gallons is a pretty good price, as long as it works well. I've been disappointed with most off-the-shelf washer fluids.I buy this einszett windshield concentrate from amazon and mix my own. Use it in all my vehicles, and is cheaper and works better than any store bought stuff. Comes in a reservoir type bottle (like 2 cycle oil) that makes for an easy proportioning for mixing with water. Plus it smells great.
![]()
There's another thread on Rain-x - maybe many - in the MkIV area. I just posted there but here's what I did to solve the Rain-X permanent washer light on:
2013 TDI Passat with the same problem here with the Rain-X. Light came on right after I put the stuff in. Left it on all the winter, and just finished it. I put in some cheap target blue stuff, and it was slow to come on, but did none the less after a few minutes. I pulled my tank (its a cake job - pull the fender liner and all its screws. The washer pump and the sensor are just pushed in with rubber bungs - easy to wiggle out), washed it out with soap and water, cleaned the prongs with soap and water, and filled the tank up half way with tap water to test out. No light. Yeah. On to the next PITA - DSG oil change....boo.
It's not a conductivity issue directly, the sensor senses capacitance and the new formula is coating the sensor probes and effectively insulating them so that the sensor measures a capacitance close to that of air, which sets off the warning.
Yours
Vern
I buy this einszett windshield concentrate from amazon and mix my own. Use it in all my vehicles, and is cheaper and works better than any store bought stuff. Comes in a reservoir type bottle (like 2 cycle oil) that makes for an easy proportioning for mixing with water. Plus it smells great.
![]()
If you like Einzsett, try Unger Easy Glide Glass Concentrate. I used it in my car all last year summer. You can usually find it at Lowes or Home Depot in their cleaning aisle. One quart makes $25 gallons for under $8. It's the cleanest wipe I've ever seen. It doesn't mess with any rubber seals or cause any lights to go on etc. There's a few people on Autopia using Unger with ONR (Optimum No Rinse) for the ultimate clean windshield.I'm gonna pick a bottle of that up and see how it goes. $8 for concentrate that makes 7 gallons is a pretty good price, as long as it works well. I've been disappointed with most off-the-shelf washer fluids.
Uh, I hate to tell you this, but boiling/cooling is just concentrating the impurities. Distillation is boiling are recondensing the steam back into pure water. Simply boiling loses pure water and leaves the crap behind . . . it's sterile, though, which is irrelevant in this context . . .I know I'm setting myself up to get keel-hauled but: For the last 30+ years I've been mixing my own windshield washer cocktail, a 5 to 1 ratio of distilled (Boiled and cooled down) water to ammonia for xtremely cold winters or 8 to 1 summer formula. I add blue food coloring for winter and red for summer. Including my '12 B7 TDI I've never had a problem with sensors or delivery systems throwing fits. That ammonia cuts right through all bug guts et al. And iced slush too. And it leaves my windshield squeaky clean. The worst scenario is when using my winter blend, the ammonia smell can temporarily get odiferous. I will usually hit the cabin switch and turn on the fan to mitigate the issue. Not that I'm a cheap bastard but a gallon of my elixir costs less that 40 cents per Gal.![]()
From what I am told by my dealer, the same stuff in the fluid that coats your windows, coats the probe tips. My guess is that the sensor works on the ohms shown across the probe, created by the washer fluid being in contact with it. When it is sealed up, sees no ohms, so shows as empty.Ruins the seals use oem fluid...
All you need to do is dilute it a bit with a little distilled water. Did it to a friends dodge, started working within minutes and the light went out. Tap water will work, but you have to add more. Distilled worked after like 6-8 oz.From what I am told by my dealer, the same stuff in the fluid that coats your windows, coats the probe tips. My guess is that the sensor works on the ohms shown across the probe, created by the washer fluid being in contact with it. When it is sealed up, sees no ohms, so shows as empty.
What I was told, was just to switch back to the blue stuff, and the probe should start working again. If not, all that will need to be done is the tips cleaned. So the BS of replacing it it is a dealer looking to get paid for a new probe, once you are out of warranty. This guy is pretty straight up with me, so I tend to believe him. Why would he not have me come right in? A reputable dealer....... When I run out of the fluid, I will let you know. Not to awfully worried about it.
Ruins the seals? Come on. Can you say hook line and sinker?
Bill
Will try that. Bet that softened water will work even better, as it has salt in it, which acts as a conductor. I have an RO System that removes 99% of everything, so it is like distilled. May try that. Maybe add a little ammonia, like Windex does to boot. Dang, it will be like no window is there at all!!All you need to do is dilute it a bit with a little distilled water. Did it to a friends dodge, started working within minutes and the light went out. Tap water will work, but you have to add more. Distilled worked after like 6-8 oz.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Will try that. Bet that softened water will work even better, as it has salt in it, which acts as a conductor. I have an RO System that removes 99% of everything, so it is like distilled. May try that. Maybe add a little ammonia, like Windex does to boot. Dang, it will be like no window is there at all!!
In all seriousness. This is really the least of our problems. Thanks Loki!