The Gamma uses ground to mute, so the Navi may be the same. I hope it doesn't fry your navi if something goes wrong. I'd use some small fuses inline when testing it all out to be safe. Good luck and you're on your own now! hehe
Mine came with the switch, but I have yet to take the time to sort out the proper repair wire to fit it.bluecollarpilot said:Where do I buy the little connectors that slide into the switch?
Thank you
It looks to me like the connectors on the switch might be about the same size as regular spade connectors. One might be able to hardwire to it that way.bluecollarpilot said:Where do I buy the little connectors that slide into the switch?
Thank you
When I relocated the Emergency flasher switch, I found that the spade connectors are close enough to work just fine.cosmic said:It looks to me like the connectors on the switch might be about the same size as regular spade connectors. One might be able to hardwire to it that way.
This is how I'm trying to use the switch but I've found I get 5v on pin 6 when the interior lights are on. If they are off, I'll get 0v with the switch off of course. Anyone else see this? I'm questioning getting a 10v diode or so to put on pin 6 so there is 0volts unless the voltage goes over 10, in which case would be 12 in all circumstances. Anybody else find 5 volts on the output with the lights on?DanielRamirez said:1 Dimmer Light
2 Ground
5 +12V
6 Output
works for me!
Are you talking about an aftermarket setup?DAFitzpatrick said:Is this switch available for a 2010 Golf TDI (Canada). I'd like to hook it it up to turn on my Sub woofer. What kind of load can this switch manage without burning out?
Thanks for any information provided.
Dave.
I hope you don't mind if I post your diagram Patrick:whitehatch said:Hmm, this switch sounds like it must be wired exactly the same as the timed rear defroster switch. You MUST have a resistive load to ground on the output of the switch at all times otherwise the lights do not function correctly. Power up only the illumination leads and the yellow LED comes on dim instead of red. Try hooking the output to ground and then applying power to the illumination leads, it should light up red. The yellow LED should only be on when the switch is depressed. Best use of the switch would be to activate a relay which will provide a constant resistive load to ground. Why resistive load? I tried using other things, such as LEDs, and the switch does not work correctly. I suspect that the input on an amp does not provide the correct ground path.
IF the switch is like the ASR switch ( picture link does not work) then 2 termimals are for the on /off control of the ASR, the other 2 hook up to the lighting control so you can dim the light the same as the dash.FlyTDI Guy said:The rear defroster switch comes in two flavors. One is just an on/off switch, the other has the timer built in to shut off after xxx minutes. As the switch has 4 terminals, the purpose of two of them is an enigma. Lighting is probably internal to the switch, could just be a DPST switch.
The ASR/ESP switch is momentary and does not change color whereas the funk switch is latching and turns yellow in the on state. The wiring diagram I created (shown above in farfromovin's post) shows how the switch needs to be wired to function properly. The load must be resistive and provide a direct path to ground. This switch appears to have been created for a very specific function and was designed to be as cheap as possible (probably due to low production numbers). A simple transistor circuit could have been used to switch between the two LEDs and ouput +12V for whatever purpose but this would have increased the cost, manufacturing time and part count.Birdman said:IF the switch is like the ASR switch ( picture link does not work) then 2 termimals are for the on /off control of the ASR, the other 2 hook up to the lighting control so you can dim the light the same as the dash.
You are correct that whatever is on the output of the switch must have resistance and be tied to ground in all conditions. So far my experience has shown that the resistance of the load isn't too important. I have had the switch function correctly, even when dimmed, while using a light bulb and a relay as the load.Farfromovin said:The only part that stumps me is "resistive load to ground on the output of the switch at all times". Does it simply mean that whatever is on the output of the switch, must have resistance and must be tied to ground in all conditions? If so, does this resistance have to be greater than 556 ohms?
There, fixed it for you Ok then, sounds like we can hook up the funk to ANYTHING, so long as the funk goes to a relay, and the relay runs the cool stuffwhitehatch said:(snipped)If you connect this to something COOL, such as the remote turn on for an amp, then the switch will not illuminate correctly.(snipped)
Interesting. So this explains why, when off, my installation of the funk switch is amber, not red (to match everything else). It still functions as desired, but the lack of matching things has been a bit irksome. I guess I risk blowing the LED as the "Hi amber" as I called it is actually getting 2x power? I will look into rewiring this with a relay. Any suggestions on sourcing a good match?whitehatch said:The ASR/ESP switch is momentary and does not change color whereas the funk switch is latching and turns yellow in the on state. The wiring diagram I created (shown above in farfromovin's post) shows how the switch needs to be wired to function properly. The load must be resistive and provide a direct path to ground. This switch appears to have been created for a very specific function and was designed to be as cheap as possible (probably due to low production numbers). A simple transistor circuit could have been used to switch between the two LEDs and ouput +12V for whatever purpose but this would have increased the cost, manufacturing time and part count.
Pin 1 - This is the dimmer input for the red LED.
Pin 2 - This is the ground for the yellow LED only. This will not ground the red LED properly.
Pin 5 - +12V input to power the yellow LED and output switched power.
Pin 6 - This is the output of the switch and must be connected to ground through a resistive load (such as a relay, light bulb or heating element). The red LED is grounded through this pin. If you connect this to something weird, such as the remote turn on for an amp, then the switch will not illuminate correctly.
I saw some clown sell one for $100 recently. Glad I got mine when I did...whitehatch said:A good match for the relay? Well since mkIVs are now in the u-pull-it style junkyards I would just grab a '53' relay and socket from one and put it with the rest of the relays under the dash.
Also, has anyone else noticed that the price of a funk switch has gone crazy? They sell for $60 on vortex now...
Oh man, thats a perfect use of the "GAS" switch!!! Now I gotta do it! You're SOL on the FUNK. I don't know where to get them anymore. They appear to be sold out. Maybe globally? Used is your best choice. Here is a website with p/n's for all the buttons. You may have to search very far to get them. I'd think they have to be available though, perhaps from a EU vendor like TMTuning? Maybe Peter or Aaron can get them in? Maybe even worldimpex?NarfBLAST said:Where can I buy these now anyway? I saw somewhere there were other switches like "GAS" which would be fun to surprise my wife next time she has one of her "silent but violent" ones in the passenger seat. It would be really neat if you hit the "GAS" button it could make all the windows immediately roll down. "FUNK" would qualify as a reason to roll down the windows also.