Fuel pump locking pin in wrong hole...

[Mark_K]

Completed timing belt change and actually got it to start but timing was way off. Determined I had put the locking pin in the wrong place causing it to be 30 degrees off.
Is it a matter of setting to TDC, removing TB and manually turning the pump to align the proper hole? Seems to make sense to me but wanted to make sure.
Thanks

 

[Genesis]

Yes.

Set the crank to TDC, cam lock should go in. Remove tension on the belt then pop free the cam sprocket (DO NOT remove it, just pop it free.

Now remove belt from the IP, manually set the IP so the pin goes in (WARNING: Do NOT rotate the pump CCW via the nut on the front; you CAN loosen it which is a bad thing; turn CW only!), now you have all three locked. Leave the three IP sprocket bolts in but NOT tight.

Put the belt back on, tension the belt, now re-torque the cam sprocket and then the IP bolts. Remove cam and crank locks, rotate crank bolt 2 full turns to check for interference (slowly!), stop at TDC and check that the cam lock plate and IP pin go back in. Assuming all is good remove locks and fire it up.

NOTE THAT YOU MUST HAVE ONLY *ONE* SPROCKET LOCKED WHEN SETTING THE TENSIONER. The three IP bolts and the cam sprocket must NOT be locked down when doing this so the pulleys can move slightly and the belt tension is taken up evenly on all three sprockets (that is, the load is CENTERED on each nub of the belt.)

 

[Mark_K]

Great write up! Thanks!

2 questions: is it OK to move the IP CCW (not by the nut as you mentioned) without issues?

Also, I assume if I realign the pin holes by turning the IP CW, I need to turn it two times to ensure injection timing is correct?

Thanks again!

 

[BobnOH]

No, the 2 full turns is a check, last thing you'll do before setting the fine tune (with VCDS or equal).

 

[Genesis]

Sure, but I don't know how the hell you're going to do it with the belt off other than by the nut on the front (which is why the caution, because you do NOT want to loosen that.)

When you do the final check (two rotations of the crank pulley to check for interference) when you're done you end with the crank at TDC. The cam lock plate should slip in and the injection pump pin should also go into the hole. Provided they do you're good.

The key with the procedure is to never tension the belt with either of the other two sprockets locked (cam or IP.) The cam is loose on the taper (on but not tightened down) and the three IP sprocket bolts are in but not tight. Only the crank SPROCKET is locked, but the IP *itself* is locked (by the pin in the hub) and the cam *itself* is locked (by the lockplate); the SPROCKETS are not.

 

[Mark_K]

Figured I'd take a strap wrench around the IP cog to move it backwards, but I really don't know what sort of resistance there is. Will probably just rotate it CW twice. 6 one way, half dozen....
This is my second TB change so familiar with the other steps, just had a brain fart on setting the pin. I blame old age....
Thanks again

 

[KLXD]

No need to do two revolutions. The pump only turns once per two engine rotations.

The caution about not loosening the IP nut is warranted but the pump should turn fairly easily either direction. You'll feel resistance four times per revolution as it goes through its injection strokes and compresses the internal springs.

Also, you'll find that it wants to move from the pinned position due to the springs so hold it in position while inserting the pin.

I've read cautions against rotating the pump backwards but after having one apart I see nothing in there that can be damaged by turning it CCW by hand.

 

[Genesis]

Yeah there is nothing that I can come up with that will be hurt by rotating it CCW, but if you put a wrench on the bolt and turn CCW you might break it free, and there IS risk associated with that. The hub itself is on a morse taper on the shaft (no key!) and while it SHOULDN'T be able to come loose if the nut backs off a bit if it does you're in a world of hurt.

As KXLD noted the "pinned position" is NOT one of the "neutral" points; the pump will not sit there untouched while you quietly insert the pin; you'll have to hold tension to keep it lined up until the pin is in place.

 

[burn_your_money]

You don't need to loosen anything on the timing belt. Just set it to TDC and remove the 3 pump pulley bolts. Rotate the pump using the 22mm nut and put the pin in.
You shouldn't have any issue turning the pump ccw by the nut. The nut is very tight and it's not hard to rotate the pump. Spin it cw using the nut if you are concerned.
You may need to remove the timing belt from the pump pulley though if the slots on the pulley don't line up with the holes in the pump.

 

[KLXD]

Dats duh question. It there enough play in the slots? I don't think there is but he may get lucky.

 

[Genesis]

Oh no way he has enough play on the slots if he's off enough to not start (he said he was in the sucker-hole, so he's WAY off.)

But he could pull the 3 bolts on the sprocket (completely out) and then turn the CENTER nut on the IP. That would work, but it's somewhat of a high-wire act in that the sprocket could come off the hub, and if it does with the belt under tension while it probably won't wreck anything it won't be a lot of fun either, plus you now wind up with a VERY serious problem IF the engine isn't at TDC when that happens (or if the crank and cam move when it happens!); you're then in a spot where you really need to remove the CAM (completely) to be sure you can get the engine and camshaft both back to TDC without being SURE nothing will hit in the process.

I'd do it right way, although the "no-need-to-loosen" option does sound enticing at first blush.

 

[BobnOH]

Dats duh question. It there enough play in the slots? I don't think there is but he may get lucky.

I was wondering this as well. Last time I slipped a new pump in mine, the crank moved when I tensioned the belt. Caught on the final check, slid the pulley to re-align, all was good.
They're pretty long slots so it depends on how far off you were. Don't go all the way or it will be hard to fine tune with VCDS device.
I highly recommend 2 full rotations of the motor as a final check. Rotate it and recheck TDC on flywheel, cam lock in, pump hole lined up (an 1/8" off on the hole is O.K., you'll be fine tuning next). I know it's a stupid simple thing, but it's a good check to be sure the tension is equalized and it's all aligned.