Mach1
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Location
- Spicewood, Tx.
- TDI
- 05.5 Jetta 5 spd, 06 Jetta DE DSG, 04 F250 6L, 2000 F250 7.3L
I did my FF change out of neccessity(sp) last night..I have been running BIO and trying several fuel stations to find a good one. So the wife says see jumped on it and down shifted and it wouldn't go anywhere, I drive it and it runs pretty good. So I push it harder and then I feel it drop off at about 3800 and it levels out, it couldn't go any higher because not enough fuel flow. So over to the shop to change er out. I had 24000 miles on it.
The 5 screws that hold the lid on are torx type. My lid has the air bleed screw as well. So after removing the 5 screws, I use a mini-bungie strap to hold the lid towards the driver seat, out of the way of the canister. You dont have to remove any hoses. I tried pulling the element out with the canister in the car, No way, it is seated tight, so I pull up on the canister and remove it over to the bench, clamp it into the vise and then I used the old two screwdriver to pry on the element from each side. once removed I sprayed brake clean inside to remove the sediment at the bottom. The old element was Coal black, the new is picture white color. I lube the orings in the filter, install, replace the gaskets, lube the lid gasket, when installing the lid onto the canister, you have to make sure it is keyed, there is a little post that fits into a indentation on the lid. Install all the screws before tightening any of them, tighten them evenly, using a cross pattern(like on a wheel). Once finished I loosened the bleeder screw and cycled the key two times, I could see the fuel out of the screw from the drivers side door. Started the car, it started right up and smoothed idle was observed. The bleeder screw has some anti-tamper goop in it that you have to dig out, I guess its VW's way of telling if the filter had been changed before.
While I was in there, I saw some breathing mods that I could get away with in the intake tract..(I was checking the condition of the AF). So I started playing in the intake tract, also studying the Mass flow sensor, which has a protective grid in front of it. VW did an excellent job of designing the airbox for these. Its sort of a ram air, with temp control(hot air to speed warm up), air diffusers to redirect the incoming air to fully utilize the full surface of the filter. Intake ducting to seperate water from the incoming air and drains to redirect the water. VERY good engineering, I only saw a couple of places that I could/would modify it.
So buy and buy--the FF difficult part was prying the element out of the canister..Go ahead and remove the canister from the car and clamp it into a vise if you have one. The canister pulls straight up and is just held in place with pressure clips. the internal part that holds the element(shaft) is plastic and spring loaded, so this is where you have to be careful.
Could do again in ten minutes...Take your time the first time.
The 5 screws that hold the lid on are torx type. My lid has the air bleed screw as well. So after removing the 5 screws, I use a mini-bungie strap to hold the lid towards the driver seat, out of the way of the canister. You dont have to remove any hoses. I tried pulling the element out with the canister in the car, No way, it is seated tight, so I pull up on the canister and remove it over to the bench, clamp it into the vise and then I used the old two screwdriver to pry on the element from each side. once removed I sprayed brake clean inside to remove the sediment at the bottom. The old element was Coal black, the new is picture white color. I lube the orings in the filter, install, replace the gaskets, lube the lid gasket, when installing the lid onto the canister, you have to make sure it is keyed, there is a little post that fits into a indentation on the lid. Install all the screws before tightening any of them, tighten them evenly, using a cross pattern(like on a wheel). Once finished I loosened the bleeder screw and cycled the key two times, I could see the fuel out of the screw from the drivers side door. Started the car, it started right up and smoothed idle was observed. The bleeder screw has some anti-tamper goop in it that you have to dig out, I guess its VW's way of telling if the filter had been changed before.
While I was in there, I saw some breathing mods that I could get away with in the intake tract..(I was checking the condition of the AF). So I started playing in the intake tract, also studying the Mass flow sensor, which has a protective grid in front of it. VW did an excellent job of designing the airbox for these. Its sort of a ram air, with temp control(hot air to speed warm up), air diffusers to redirect the incoming air to fully utilize the full surface of the filter. Intake ducting to seperate water from the incoming air and drains to redirect the water. VERY good engineering, I only saw a couple of places that I could/would modify it.
So buy and buy--the FF difficult part was prying the element out of the canister..Go ahead and remove the canister from the car and clamp it into a vise if you have one. The canister pulls straight up and is just held in place with pressure clips. the internal part that holds the element(shaft) is plastic and spring loaded, so this is where you have to be careful.
Could do again in ten minutes...Take your time the first time.
