Fuel Filter change procedure

Jon_Mutiger

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Joined
Jul 25, 2002
Location
Maple Ridge, BC
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 6sp
Hi there,

What is the procedure to change out the fuel filter on these new cars? Do you simply open the canister, pop the seal, and replace the cartridge?

Is there a bleed prodecure required at all? How about anything additional for sealing the housing?

Jon
 

BarnyardsTDI

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Joined
Oct 28, 2010
Location
Sacramento California
TDI
2010 Golf w/DSG, Malone Stage 2 (all emissions intact), HID's, Sunroof, Dynaudio, NAV
I reccomend getting Vag-Com. You will need it. Well you could jumper the fuel pump to prime but thats a PITA.
 

740GLE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
NH
TDI
2015 Passat SEL, 2017 Alltrack SE; BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat,
I never needed VCDS and started fine 3 time with just a prefil of my favorite additive. 63K and still counting.

(ohh and I had small metal flakes sitting on top of the filter at 10K when i did my first change)

 

Ryephile

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Metro Detroit
TDI
MkVI Golf
The Bentley manual says nothing about priming the system after changing the fuel filter. It does however makes a big stink about priming the system after changing the HPFP itself, which of course makes sense, as the new HPFP would have no Diesel in it to lubricate the piston and roller.

Consider how much fuel is in the filter housing after a non-messy filter change [i.e. you drained the fuel out of the old filter back into the housing and didn't spill a bunch all over your rubber hoses]. You should have enough fuel in the housing to more than cover the top of the filter. There's enough fuel in the housing to run the car for many minutes. That gives the tank pump tons of time to fill up the housing and recirculate whatever minimal air happens to be in the top of the housing.

That all said, it's not going to hurt to use VCDS to prime the system. It just likely isn't necessary.
 

JSWTDI09

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
TDI
2009 JSW TDI (gone but not forgotten)
The Bentley manual says nothing about priming the system after changing the fuel filter. It does however makes a big stink about priming the system after changing the HPFP itself, which of course makes sense, as the new HPFP would have no Diesel in it to lubricate the piston and roller.

That all said, it's not going to hurt to use VCDS to prime the system. It just likely isn't necessary.
1) The Bentley manual does talk about priming the system, but you are correct in that it is not in the section about changing the fuel filter. I don't have my Bentley with me, but in another section of the Bentley it states that anytime the fuel system is opened (pumps, hoses, filter, etc.) it should be filled (primed) using a scantool (like VCDS). If you would like, I can find the exact page number when I get home tonight.

2) As to whether or not VCDS is necessary - this has been argued to death here in several different threads. All I know for sure is that VW recommends priming the system with VCDS (or the VW scantool) before starting the engine. Since I have VCDS, I will always use it.

Have Fun!

Don
 

hotpocketdeath

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Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Location
Suwanee, GA
TDI
2010 Golf TDI
Is there a Bentley manual that covers the CR engine? I've been keeping my eyes out for the MK6 Bentley, but have yet to see it.

But regardless, I think it's better to play it safe to prime the system first. I recently did my fuel filter (40k service) and used the VCDS to prime the system. I could hear the auxilary pump pulling air for a short while while it was priming the system.
 

JSWTDI09

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
TDI
2009 JSW TDI (gone but not forgotten)
Is there a Bentley manual that covers the CR engine? I've been keeping my eyes out for the MK6 Bentley, but have yet to see it.

Yes, and no. There is a Bentley for the 2006-2010 Jettas. This does include the CBEA and CJAA engines, but it does not cover the Mk6 electronics and other changes. There is no Mk6 Bentley and it looks like there will not be one. The rumor mill says that Bentley lost the contract for VW service manuals. I do not know who will take over this job (if anybody).

Have Fun!

Don
 

UberVW_TDI

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Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Location
Austin, TX
TDI
2010 Golf Variant TDI
I would definitely recommend getting a VAC-COM to prime your fuel filter.
The HPFP uses the fuel as its lubricant. I wouldn't start my car without priming the filter first.

I've done this procedure x3. I'm at 60k miles. Zero metal flakes in the filter each time....but I use 1 liter of B100 and 5oz of power service with each fill up, which I believe really helps lubricate the HPFP.

The procedure is in the Bentley Service Manual for the MkV VW Jetta

Page: 20-20:

"Any time the diesel fuel system is opened or drained for repairs, prime the system before running the high pressure fuel pump. Running the fuel pump dry causes damage."

VAG-COM:

SELECT CONTROL MODULE

[1] ENGINE
[3] OUTPUT TESTS
First turn on the "In Tank" pump: listed as "Fuel Pump Relay Control Ckt"
Cycle this a couple times, each run ~ 45seconds.
Then turn on the "Aux Pump" located just to the left of the engine (passenger side). Listed as "Relay for auxiliary fuel pump"
Cycle this x3 times for 45 seconds or so.

Start your car.
 

JBell

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Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Location
None
TDI
None
I would definitely recommend getting a VAC-COM to prime your fuel filter.
The HPFP uses the fuel as its lubricant. I wouldn't start my car without priming the filter first.
I've done this procedure x3. I'm at 60k miles. Zero metal flakes in the filter each time....but I use 1 liter of B100 and 5oz of power service with each fill up, which I believe really helps lubricate the HPFP.
The procedure is in the Bentley Service Manual for the MkV VW Jetta
Page: 20-20:
"Any time the diesel fuel system is opened or drained for repairs, prime the system before running the high pressure fuel pump. Running the fuel pump dry causes damage."
VAG-COM:
SELECT CONTROL MODULE
[1] ENGINE
[3] OUTPUT TESTS
First turn on the "In Tank" pump: listed as "Fuel Pump Relay Control Ckt"
Cycle this a couple times, each run ~ 45seconds.
Then turn on the "Aux Pump" located just to the left of the engine (passenger side). Listed as "Relay for auxiliary fuel pump"
Cycle this x3 times for 45 seconds or so.
Start your car.
You use B100 AND PS? Isn't that a little excessive? I would imagine one or the other would suffice for your intent?
 

elitegunslinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Location
Barnegat NJ
TDI
2010 Golf TDI :D
I would definitely recommend getting a VAC-COM to prime your fuel filter.
The HPFP uses the fuel as its lubricant. I wouldn't start my car without priming the filter first.
I've done this procedure x3. I'm at 60k miles. Zero metal flakes in the filter each time....but I use 1 liter of B100 and 5oz of power service with each fill up, which I believe really helps lubricate the HPFP.
The procedure is in the Bentley Service Manual for the MkV VW Jetta
Page: 20-20:
"Any time the diesel fuel system is opened or drained for repairs, prime the system before running the high pressure fuel pump. Running the fuel pump dry causes damage."
VAG-COM:
SELECT CONTROL MODULE
[1] ENGINE
[3] OUTPUT TESTS
First turn on the "In Tank" pump: listed as "Fuel Pump Relay Control Ckt"
Cycle this a couple times, each run ~ 45seconds.
Then turn on the "Aux Pump" located just to the left of the engine (passenger side). Listed as "Relay for auxiliary fuel pump"
Cycle this x3 times for 45 seconds or so.
Start your car.
You use B100 AND PS? Isn't that a little excessive? I would imagine one or the other would suffice for your intent?
 

DEM

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Location
BC
TDI
Golf Wagon 2010 - dumped it for Golf R
Consider how much fuel is in the filter housing after a non-messy filter change [i.e. you drained the fuel out of the old filter back into the housing and didn't spill a bunch all over your rubber hoses]. You should have enough fuel in the housing to more than cover the top of the filter. There's enough fuel in the housing to run the car for many minutes. That gives the tank pump tons of time to fill up the housing and recirculate whatever minimal air happens to be in the top of the housing.
When I change fuel filter I empty the canister and wipe it clean.
 

2010TDI

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Location
USA
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2010 Jetta Sedan TDI 6MT, 2010 Jetta SportWagen TDI DSG (sold), 2014 Jetta Sedan TDI DSG (sold), 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI DSG
VAG-COM:

SELECT CONTROL MODULE

[1] ENGINE
[3] OUTPUT TESTS
First turn on the "In Tank" pump: listed as "Fuel Pump Relay Control Ckt"
Cycle this a couple times, each run ~ 45seconds.
Then turn on the "Aux Pump" located just to the left of the engine (passenger side). Listed as "Relay for auxiliary fuel pump"
Cycle this x3 times for 45 seconds or so.

Start your car.
When I did my last fuel filter change, I first used this method. I could hear the in tank pump cycling on and off, but could only hear a "buzzing" sound from under the hood - a relay maybe - but was not sure the AUX pump was actually cycling. When I went to start my car it was hesitating for a second so I cut the ignition, and re-primed using the following method:

You can also run the pump through Basic Settings. Go to block 35 and press ON and it will run both the in tank and axillary fuel pumps.
The second time it was clear the AUX pump was now running, which made me think that the noise I heard the first time was something else completely. Anyway, after cycling with this method the engine started with no hesitation.
 

amstel78

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
I never needed VCDS and started fine 3 time with just a prefil of my favorite additive. 63K and still counting.

(ohh and I had small metal flakes sitting on top of the filter at 10K when i did my first change)

This is what I plan to do as well on Saturday. I don't have VCDS nor do I have desire to manually jump the pumps. I'm just going to pop the new filter in, top off with a bit of diesel additive and let her rip.
 

740GLE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
NH
TDI
2015 Passat SEL, 2017 Alltrack SE; BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat,
let everyone know how it works out for you.

BTW a few people here have had issues with stalling even after VCDS method.
 

JSWTDI09

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
TDI
2009 JSW TDI (gone but not forgotten)
Page: 20-20:

"Any time the diesel fuel system is opened or drained for repairs, prime the system before running the high pressure fuel pump. Running the fuel pump dry causes damage."
Appropriate emphasis added. Note: it says "causes damage" - it does not say may cause damage, or could cause damage. It says that it does cause damage.

VAG-COM:

SELECT CONTROL MODULE

[1] ENGINE
[3] OUTPUT TESTS
First turn on the "In Tank" pump: listed as "Fuel Pump Relay Control Ckt"
Cycle this a couple times, each run ~ 45seconds.
Then turn on the "Aux Pump" located just to the left of the engine (passenger side). Listed as "Relay for auxiliary fuel pump"
Cycle this x3 times for 45 seconds or so.
You can also run both pumps together easier by going to basic settings #35. I can see running the lift pump first, if you have replaced (or serviced) the lift pump. It is probably not necessary to "prime" the Aux pump, if all you have done is to replace the fuel filter. Running both pumps together (basic settings #35) is the way prescribed in my Bentley manual on page 20-20.

Even if I had just replaced the lift pump - I would run the lift pump first (using output tests). Then, I would run both pumps together (using basic settings). I can think of no good reason to run the Aux pump without the lift pump supplying fuel to it.

Have Fun!

Don
 

amstel78

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
let everyone know how it works out for you.

BTW a few people here have had issues with stalling even after VCDS method.
I plan to. I don't intend to empty the canister either. Don't see a reason for it.

Let me ask you this though - how much fuel was left in the canister once the old filter was removed and allowed to drain back into the canister? 1/3, 1/2, 2/3?

I don't foresee any problems leaving the old diesel in the canister, installing a new filter, then topping up with additive. I can imagine priming being required if the canister along with the fuel lines from the tank are drained completely, but in this case, that's not going to happen.
 

2010TDI

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2010 Jetta Sedan TDI 6MT, 2010 Jetta SportWagen TDI DSG (sold), 2014 Jetta Sedan TDI DSG (sold), 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI DSG
Let me ask you this though - how much fuel was left in the canister once the old filter was removed and allowed to drain back into the canister? 1/3, 1/2, 2/3?
When I did my last change I think the housing was around 1/3 to 1/2 full. I let the filter drain for quite awhile, and then poured what was left in the canister back into the tank. Then I cleaned out the canister with paper towels and cleaner, so it was bone dry before I primed the system. I was trying to keep the system as clean as possible, I even covered the cap with a latex glove to keep any debris from going to into the lines.
 

MF1160

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Jun 24, 2011
Location
Southeast
TDI
2015 BMW X5 35d xline
Procedure for priming the fuel system after a hpfp change out



Procedure for changing the fuel filter, no mention is made as to the priming procedure after the filter change















 

amstel78

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
Changed the fuel filter for the first time this afternoon. Prying the cap off the housing took the use of a screwdriver. Also, the old filter was stuck on the cap pretty good and when I pushed it down with a screwdriver, it came off but ended up splashing a bit of diesel all over the place when the filter dropped back into the housing. Suffice it to say, I was pissed. After cleaning up the diesel, I put the new filter in without draining any of the old fuel in the canister and bolted the cap back on. I did not prime the system. Car fired right up and drove around with no problems.

Oh, I did notice what looked like small metal flakes or particles on top of the old filter but not enough to be of concern. They may also have been something else and not metal. Couldn't really tell. As I said, not worried. If the HPFP goes kaboom, I'll deal with it then.
 

MPGonad

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Location
Mianus, CT
TDI
2012 Golf
^ i'm assuming you have the narrow mouth one-hole fuel filter. if you had to do it all again, what steps could you have taken, or perhaps what would have have done differently, to avoid splashing diesel all over the place?

***********************************************

to the forum at large:

is there a preferred way <or a trick> to separating the filter from the cap?

and what's the general consensus to putting an additive back in canister along with fresh diesel? overkill? worth the $$ from an insurance perspective?

is the best way to clean out the canister simply wiping it out with a shop towel? maybe with a little clean diesel? or some type of cleaner?

i'm new to vw's and diesels. i have done a bunch of reading and searching. so i'm getting tired (which goes hand-in-hand with lazy). so if there are threads directly answering my specific questions, go ahead and tell me to pound sand. i can take it.
 

tomsyco

Veteran Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Location
Rhode Island
TDI
2010 White Golf 2 Door
Changed the fuel filter for the first time this afternoon. Prying the cap off the housing took the use of a screwdriver. Also, the old filter was stuck on the cap pretty good and when I pushed it down with a screwdriver, it came off but ended up splashing a bit of diesel all over the place when the filter dropped back into the housing. Suffice it to say, I was pissed. After cleaning up the diesel, I put the new filter in without draining any of the old fuel in the canister and bolted the cap back on. I did not prime the system. Car fired right up and drove around with no problems.

Oh, I did notice what looked like small metal flakes or particles on top of the old filter but not enough to be of concern. They may also have been something else and not metal. Couldn't really tell. As I said, not worried. If the HPFP goes kaboom, I'll deal with it then.
I did the same thing, but primed it many times with my vcds cable.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

texnkeroburner

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Location
Dallas
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Tdi Cup Edition DSG
is there a preferred way <or a trick> to separating the filter from the cap?
I sort of twisted left and right the cap a little bit to get the filter off while pulling on it, it took a little more force than I thought but it came off without a diesel shower. The hoses have some flex to them but not a great deal so left and right just a couple of degrees though.
 

amstel78

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Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
^ i'm assuming you have the narrow mouth one-hole fuel filter. if you had to do it all again, what steps could you have taken, or perhaps what would have have done differently, to avoid splashing diesel all over the place?
I'll probably just lift the cap up a bit more and try to remove the filter with my free hand to prevent it from dropping back down into the canister.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 

TNriverjet

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Location
Mid TN
TDI
2013 JSW TDI 6MT
I'm of the "no VCDS and refill filter canister with fresh diesel" persuasion. It works fine, and here is why... The fuel pump constantly circulates fuel from the tank to the fuel filter, hence the return lines. The fuel filter and canister are sized to handle WOT plus a margin of error above that to always keep the HPFP supplied with plenty of diesel. If you refill the canister the low pressure lift pump has plenty of capacity and time to replenish the fuel filter canister since the engine is only idling. In theory, even if you started and had the throttle pressed, the lift pump could still keep up, but we never start with a foot on the throttle.

I will say that re-using or leaving the fuel in the canister is concerning to me... That is all the dirty stuff that has been on the outside (unfiltered side) of the filter. Not to mention the sloshing and jerking required to remove the filter can allow all the trapped dirt to become re-suspended in the fuel (washed back off the filter media). I vacuum this fuel into my used oil extractor and clean the inside of the canister. Then only fresh fuel is used to refill! YMMV.
 

whiplash willy

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Aug 1, 2011
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Portland Oregon
TDI
2012 4-Door Golf TDI 6MT w/NAV & Sunroof
I just found out that I have the narrow mouth filter "Type B" on my 2012 Golf...Which style (Narrow Mouth or Wide Mouth) is better. I read somewhere that the wide mouth sits higher then the bottom, to clear any water that may be at the bottom, wouldn't that make the wide mouth one a better design?



Also, just to clarify, the Narrow Mouth type is attached to the lid, and must be pulled from the lid once the lid has been removed, unlike the wide mouth which sits in the canister, and must be pulled from the canister once the lid is removed right?

Also, when putting the new narrow mouth filter in, do you set it in the housing and put the lid back on, or do you attach it to the lid, then put the lid+filter back in the canister?
 

amstel78

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Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
I have the narrow mouth version as well. That's why I splashed diesel all over the place when I replaced it because it was attached to the lid. When I pried it off, it fell back into the canister thus dousing the immediate surroundings with fuel.

As for reinstallation, I just put the new filter into the canister and placed the lid on top. Make sure you torque each screw per instructions as there's also a specific tightening pattern. Apart from cleaning the diesel spill, total changing time was less than 10 minutes.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
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