Fuel cutoff solenoid doesn't kick on?

[Clean1zpassat]

Well i already treated the diesal. And thanks todd. You confirmed which tool i was already leaning towards. But i have a plastic brush on what looks like twisted wire. That will get it clean. How can i tell when the valves are closed on any given port? And also i have alot more gunk than that. The car has 267k and i can tell its never had this kind of owner tlc. If i were to gather it all up in a ball, i could easily stack it up to a softball or bigger. Took quite the heat to burn out, and the flames were feet from the aluminum.

 

[ToddA1]

Pull the valve cover. Rotate the crank until the lobes are pointing up at an angle, on the cylinder you're working on.

I have a feeling you're gonna need something more aggressive than a brush.

-Todd

 

[Clean1zpassat]

The brush i have is thick plastic coated wire. And i can hook it up to the air drill to get it cleaned up. But thanks, i wasnt even thinking about pulling the cover to make sure the valves close

 

[Clean1zpassat]

I did decide to put the compressor to the wastegate hose and after some manual actuation, its moving freely and snapping back in place correctly. So now im just waiting on a manifold gasket to put it back together and find out if i have any power restored. Will update as i go.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Well i put forth the effort and got everything back together. And still no power. So im beginning to think its a feul issue, or maybe clogged catalytic converter. If i were to delete that and the resonator, would i have a cel other than the one im throwing now? And will it give me any backpressure issues?
As a side note, somewhere along the lines of messing with the wastegate with the engine running. I blew out a seal on the oil return on the turbo end. Not sure why that would or could happen. Any input on that? Something im misreading? Its becoming a headache, but i have new seals on the way for both ends. So it wont be leaking much longer.

 

[twentyeight]

Sounds like you need to get it hooked up to vagcom to see what's actually happening. The only codes related to the catalytic converter are temperature sensors. Jumper them with 470Ω resistors (IIRC), or just leave the sensors hang, and you won't get any codes. They won't be a power issue regardless. Turbo cars, and especially diesels, do not have any meaningful exhaust scavenging dynamics and there's no such thing as good back pressure.

As far as what sounds like a turbo rebuild (?) I don't know what to tell you. If you're talking about the gasket with the 10mm bolts or the big 24mm then yeah, plan on replacing any gaskets you disturb along the way if you don't want leaks

 

[Clean1zpassat]

The oil line seems irrelevant other than to return oil to the block. That issue will be taken care of in a week or so. Ill probably take it to the dealership n have them hook the ol vagcom up to it. But as far as the turbo needing a rebuild, it spools fine and is running oil ok. But im sure it could use a new wastegate diaphram. I was just worried about the cat converter being clogged and not letting the air out quickly enough. But im sure it wont hurt to replace it with some piping. As far as the vaccuum diagram, im pretty sure everything is hooked up correctly and all sensors and such seem to be operating.
Ill get it sorted out one way or another.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Well i got the codes checked YET AGAIN. And still throwing egr duty cycle code. So im assuming its that egr solenoid caising that issue? Ive been through almost everything else. Also have a "internal glowplug not grounded to circuit" this car becomes more headache every day. Lol

 

[Steve Addy]

Well i got the codes checked YET AGAIN. And still throwing egr duty cycle code. So im assuming its that egr solenoid caising that issue? Ive been through almost everything else. Also have a "internal glowplug not grounded to circuit" this car becomes more headache every day. Lol

I think you'll want to verify that the hose routing (and electrical) to the N18 is correct. There's really not much to it but check anyway.

As for the glow plug ground, since we don't have the precise code # we don't know what that really is. It's hard not to have a GP ground when they're threaded into the cylinder head...which is grounded. You might need to pull and verify each one to be sure that they're working. TBH I don't remember there being a code that told me that a ground was bad, just that there was a failure in the system.

Although the things you're working through seem like headaches, once you get them resolved you will I think be happy with the car. It's not like there's anything else out there that can deliver the ride and mpg of the older VW tdi's.

Also, I assume you've adjusted the EGR in vagcom?

Steve

 

[Clean1zpassat]

I think you'll want to verify that the hose routing (and electrical) to the N18 is correct. There's really not much to it but check anyway.

As for the glow plug ground, since we don't have the precise code # we don't know what that really is. It's hard not to have a GP ground when they're threaded into the cylinder head...which is grounded. You might need to pull and verify each one to be sure that they're working. TBH I don't remember there being a code that told me that a ground was bad, just that there was a failure in the system.

Although the things you're working through seem like headaches, once you get them resolved you will I think be happy with the car. It's not like there's anything else out there that can deliver the ride and mpg of the older VW tdi's.

Also, I assume you've adjusted the EGR in vagcom?

Steve

Well i have to order a vcds cable. Any suggestions which one i should buy?
Ive seen them used before and played around with programming on a jetta 1.8

 

[twentyeight]

If you can find one, just get an old (409.1) compatible cable. The new ones are absurdly overpriced for use only on A3/B4 platform cars. Remember 56,000 baud modems? These things run at 9600-10400.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Found a new culprit. After everything has been put back together i notice a distinct hiss between 2.5k and 4k revs. It goes away after 4k. Its the top egr recirc pipe. Looks like a flex pipe with circular ridges.
Now im going off of assumption that it will be a difficult part to find. Easy to replace, but im sure it will fail again. So i have an idea to cut them and flare the pipin after the elbows to keep a good fitting on the egr system. And clamp a section of heat resistant hose to replace the bad design.
I would delete egr altogether, but money is tight, and once i start ill tirelessly finish the project at hand.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

I think you'll want to verify that the hose routing (and electrical) to the N18 is correct. There's really not much to it but check anyway.

As for the glow plug ground, since we don't have the precise code # we don't know what that really is. It's hard not to have a GP ground when they're threaded into the cylinder head...which is grounded. You might need to pull and verify each one to be sure that they're working. TBH I don't remember there being a code that told me that a ground was bad, just that there was a failure in the system.

Although the things you're working through seem like headaches, once you get them resolved you will I think be happy with the car. It's not like there's anything else out there that can deliver the ride and mpg of the older VW tdi's.

Also, I assume you've adjusted the EGR in vagcom?

Steve

You are exactly right. After further digging, cleaning, and deleting egr flow. Im alot happier with this car.
Have i mentioned at all that the suspension on this car is fantastic? Rides like a cadillac when the turbo does what it should.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

I never did try to replace the cutoff solenoid. I figured since i could jump power to it that its probably the blip in the ecm. I figure once i order a staged ecm that it will probably handle that problem? I got soo far off topic.

 

[Steve Addy]

If solenoid works when you power it directly from the battery then the solenoid is good.

It's unlikely that the ECU is the culprit, the most common failure point here will be with the wiring.

Solve the wiring problems and you'll probably fix 99% of your problems.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Had issues trying to track it before. Main engine harness is siezed on pretty well. And im sure the issue with it is in that harness or behind it along the lines. Not sure where it goes or id be checking continuity.

 

[Steve Addy]

The fuel cutoff valve wire goes from the solenoid at the IP directly to the ECU at pin 53. The wire is white with a black stripe.

I would check the connection to make sure that it's solid.

Steve

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Thanks steve. Im pretty sure pin 53 on the ecm is fried. Should i try to resolder it to regain connection? Or just go with an upgraded module? Im pretty sure kerma tdi has a tuneable one that is cheaper than oem replacement.

 

[Steve Addy]

Thanks steve. Im pretty sure pin 53 on the ecm is fried. Should i try to resolder it to regain connection? Or just go with an upgraded module? Im pretty sure kerma tdi has a tuneable one that is cheaper than oem replacement.

Test the wiring before making any purchases, if the wiring at the connector to the ECU is bad you can replace that and bypass the existing faulty wiring. Run a single wire from the ECU to the stop solenoid or to the connector where it connects to the harness mounted to the engine.

If the car is running then your ECU is fine, the wiring is the first and easiest issue to check and fix. It's never a good idea to replace a stock factory ECU with a tuned unit before all the faults are found and repaired.

Steve

 

[twentyeight]

Have you removed the T68 plug and tested continuity from pin 53 to, first, the solenoid, and then from pin 53 to every connection in between?

The ECU can be fine with the output stage mosfet blown, but I have never personally seen this. It would be a rather cheap fix if it was the case.

 

[Clean1zpassat]

Have you removed the T68 plug and tested continuity from pin 53 to, first, the solenoid, and then from pin 53 to every connection in between?

The ECU can be fine with the output stage mosfet blown, but I have never personally seen this. It would be a rather cheap fix if it was the case.

I dont own a multimeter. But thats going to be my next test. Just have to wait for the use of a reliable one. Shouldnt be long.

 

[whitedog]

I dont own a multimeter. But thats going to be my next test. Just have to wait for the use of a reliable one. Shouldnt be long.

Reliable test equipment is certainly important. Yesterday I lost an hour chasing a part that I thought tested bad, but actually was just a broken test wire. Good thing I was curious enough to wonder what in the switch failed. I opened it up and nothing was wrong with the switch which led me to more testing and eventually finding that the test wire was broken.

 

[Steve Addy]

I dont own a multimeter. But thats going to be my next test. Just have to wait for the use of a reliable one. Shouldnt be long.

I've been working off low cost harbor freight multimeters for several years. The first one lasted about a decade, couldn't have been happier, $4.99 goes a long ways. Unfortunately the quality keeps going down and the test wires shorter.

If I had to do more than the simple testing I do I would probably invest in better equipment but as it sits I'm ok with these.

Steve

 

[Abacus]

I agree and they're cheap enough to own several, just don't ask too much of them. But for basic stuff like this they're worth the money. Get a better one when you can, but I rarely use mine. Still, when I need something absolutely reliable I'm glad my trusty 20 year old meter still performs like new.