Fuel additives?

bigb

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Does anyone use them, are they not recommended? I am specifically referring to Opti-Lube XPD for lubricity and maybe a cetane booster like Stanadyne Performance. I run them in my old Powerstroke since ULSD started, the Stanadyne Performace does nothing for lubricity thus the Optilube which I have used in every tank. What do you use in cold climates for gelling?
 

JM Popaleetus

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Additives have been debated to death since 2009 on this forum.

Do a Google search for “TDIClub” + “Additives”.

Cliff notes are 2.5% Biodiesel if possible, and White Diesel Kleen if you have winter gelling issues.
 

bigb

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Additives have been debated to death since 2009 on this forum.

Do a Google search for “TDIClub” + “Additives”.

Cliff notes are 2.5% Biodiesel if possible, and White Diesel Kleen if you have winter gelling issues.
Will do, on the 2.5% biodiesel are you saying to try and get a little in there or limit it to a max of 2.5%? It was my understanding that it was best to avoid any biofuel altogether if possible which I have been doing.
 

JM Popaleetus

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Will do, on the 2.5% biodiesel are you saying to try and get a little in there or limit it to a max of 2.5%? It was my understanding that it was best to avoid any biofuel altogether if possible which I have been doing.
Anything up to B5 (5%) is perfectly fine. Concentrations up to 20% are okay only if it’s a mandated concentration in your state.

Years ago, someone here posted a study that showed that a concentration of at least 2.5% offered the best lubricity protection.
 

Lightflyer1

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I generally try and use diesel that has 5% or less in the mix. My normal fueling station near my house has this. There is a new thread on a new lubricity additive and I am trying it. The test document shows it has very, very good lubricity properties. I have tried many including Optilube and Standyne but haven't continued as there doesn't seem to be a real need, especially if you have some small percent bio in the mix. Here is the thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=502115

Generally additives aren't needed but some still use them and some swear by them. Really, really cold weather is one of the real legitimate reason for using an additive. If you have water in your fuel you need to find another fuel source. I have never found water in my fuel in the 15 years I have been driving these. Lubricity and cetane seem to be adequate for the job from the testing that Infineum does. It doesn't test enough to be a really good indicator but it is encouraging.

Whatever you choose to use you won't notice any difference and will probably need a lab to tell if you are getting the benefit you expect.
 

bigb

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Thanks both of you for the informative replies. I read the thread on the new Hotshot additive and will follow it. Curious how do you actually know if it is doing anything or not?
 

Lightflyer1

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You personally probably won't know. Like I said it will more than likely take lab testing to know anything for sure. You just have to look at their data and take it for granted it is helping. Maybe you might hear some difference but I haven't so far. Noticed no changes at all. Doesn't mean it hasn't worked though. I will finish the bottle and then determine whether I want to continue or not.
 

Matt927

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Optilube XPD in every tank of all the VW TDI vehicles I have owned.

Local Citgo station where I normally fuel is also 5% bio.
 

adjat84th

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PowerService white bottle, I use in every tank on both TDIs. Keeps water from sticking around which is the real death of the fuel pumps. Also peace of mind fuel gelling prevention in the winters.
 

CheapBastard

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I run lubricant in every fill because of the fuel pump issues, I figure if it does any good that it’s cheap maintenance/insurance
 

740GLE

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I used to run PS gray or white pretty religiously, as well as driving out off my way for B5.

Since about 2014 I've just stuck with local Irving's (zero bio blend, local refinery) and haven't had any issues. PS white is only used for fuel filter change outs and occasional early season cold snaps.

I'd put more concern at your filling stations and fuel source than bio/additive blends.
 

thundershorts

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In Pennsylvania b5 is the mandate. In addition we have the highest diesel fuel tax of any state.
 

Lightflyer1

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Really no point in continuing to post what you use. There are already many, many threads here with exactly the same info posted. 100 more posts of "I use this" won't change anything.
 

bigb

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My main reason for posting was to find out if additives are any different for this engine than the older engines I am used to. In the old diesels you could pour practically anything that burns into the tank but I am not familiar with what is safe, what is recommended or what is forbidden on the late model SCR systems. From the answers here and on older threads it seems apparent to me that none over the counter additives will hurt the EA288 fuel system. Whether or not they will help it seems to be subjective. (Just like on the older Pre-DPF diesels). Of course I wouldn't put some of the stuff into the tank that guys put in the old diesels like waste oil, tranny fluid and 2-stroke oil. I don't even do that on my older diesel.
So yes my questions have been answered and I will make an informed decision from here, thanks for all the replies.
Moderator close thread if you wish.
 

Lightflyer1

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All commercial additives have to be compatible with diesel and all diesel vehicles. So they can be used in any diesel vehicle if you so choose. The only question is if they help any at all. That answer can't be found without extensive laboratory testing which I have yet to see any. That Hotshotsecret LX4 Lubricity Extreme has some of the best HFRR scores I have seen though. That is the only reason I am trying it now. I have tried at least 12 different additives and have never been able to tell any difference. That is why I just started using diesel with some bio in it (<5%) instead. Right from the pump, no extra cost, good lubricity, don't have to carry some really stinky lingering potion around. There will always be those that are pouring just about anything available in their tank and willing to claim it is the best. Many, many threads here to back that up, any time someone even mentions additives. Probably the most discussed thing here next to "What oil is best".
 

740GLE

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In Pennsylvania b5 is the mandate. In addition we have the highest diesel fuel tax of any state.
We drove to TN this past april, thank god we have 800 range tank and skipped fueling in PA it was like a 40 cents more expensive than VA, lol.

Also check to see if they lift that B5 "requirement" in the winter months.
 

sloinker

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I think the danger exists at the terminal when the fuel is loaded on the tanker. The fuel without any lubricity modifiers is heating oil. If the terminal operator or truck driver fails to add the lubricity additive, ULSD without any lubricity modification may well harm some fuel pumps. So the cheap cost of a few ounces of whatever you may use will probably not harm but could well save a fuel pump if there was negligence along the way to your tank.
 

Lightflyer1

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It could, but I would imagine there is only a very, very small chance of that happening. The fuel supplier would be at fault and liable for all the damages caused by that. There would be many ruined vehicles if that happened. It isn't cheap if you are preparing for a almost never occurrence. Especially when someone else will be on the hook for the tab. But they did have very good results with untreated depot fuel and it would seem to protect you if that rare occurrence happened.
 

bigb

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Sloinker brings up a good point, one that I had not thought of, I think that something like that could happen more often than we know but I don't think one or two tanks of it would take out the pump right away, might never know what caused an early pump failure. I have heard of several instances where gasoline was put into the underground diesel tanks by mistake, and I am one of those who seems to have unlikely things happen to me. I will probably start adding at least some Opti-Lube since I have a lot of it for my other diesel.
 

Lightflyer1

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Generally when this happens cars start dying blocks from the station. Assuming they put a good amount in. I don't know how much good optilube would do with gasoline contamination anyway. That isn't depot fuel and would be hard to treat a heavy combination of gas with diesel. Adding any additive probably isn't going to help against a heavy dose of gas cross contamination.
 

740GLE

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I think the danger exists at the terminal when the fuel is loaded on the tanker. The fuel without any lubricity modifiers is heating oil. If the terminal operator or truck driver fails to add the lubricity additive, ULSD without any lubricity modification may well harm some fuel pumps. So the cheap cost of a few ounces of whatever you may use will probably not harm but could well save a fuel pump if there was negligence along the way to your tank.
Lol, you think they have special blends for each use? and unlimited storage tanks for each?

The only thing now a days between home heating oil, off road diesel and on road diesel is the dye for off road diesel.
 

JM Popaleetus

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I highly, highly doubt the truck driver or guy operating the tanker’s pump is the minimum wage schmuck who is dosing the additives package. Most likely a Petroleum Engineer entirely somewhere else.
 
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Lightflyer1

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I doubt the person dosing the loads with additives is a minimum wage schmuck either. More than likely computer controlled.
 

sloinker

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Lol, you think they have special blends for each use? and unlimited storage tanks for each?
The only thing now a days between home heating oil, off road diesel and on road diesel is the dye for off road diesel.
I just spent some time looking. The only part of the country that requires 15ppm or less sulfur in home heating oil is the Northeast United States. Other parts of the country don't have this mandate required by law. Now chances approach 100% that HHO is 15ppm or less wherever you may go nowadays.

My point is that the terminal or transport operator may make a mistake. Lubricity modifiers are not required in HHO. I have heard on a few different boards about truck drivers adding brand specific additives to generic gasoline. Techron is an example. It doesn't take any stretch of the imagination to see a truck driver adding 5 gallons of Howes to a 3000 gallon tag tank of 15ppm HHO, or not.
 

740GLE

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I may have to eat crow, I forgot HHO isn't blended for gel point similar on road/off road diesel. I was more focused on ULSD and the 15PPM region wide.

I'd still wager each load is the same as far a lubricity and then modified for gel point as needed.
 

35 Yr Dsl Veteran

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I've used FUEL POWER additive for MANY years. I thing I 1st used it it in 1989 in a 1985 Olds Cutlass Ciera Brougham 4.3L V-6 diesel. Awesome car! It had 90K miles on it when I got , and it smoked a bit. I used Fuel power every fill up, and the smoking completely stopped and my hwy MPG went fro 30 to 33. Good stuff!

It is much cheaper to use than all the other additives. A mere ounce treats 30 gallons. When I was a big truck owner-operator, I bought it by the gallon.

 

bigb

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Generally when this happens cars start dying blocks from the station. Assuming they put a good amount in. I don't know how much good optilube would do with gasoline contamination anyway. That isn't depot fuel and would be hard to treat a heavy combination of gas with diesel. Adding any additive probably isn't going to help against a heavy dose of gas cross contamination.
I didn't mean an additive would help in the event of a gasoline contamination, I was saying that if a gasoline contamination can happen why couldn't an additive mistake happen?
 
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