Front Suspension Work/Price Check

[senez]

Hi all, I've been getting the squeaking/clunking going over bumps for a bit now and figured it was time for the compliance bushings to be replaced. I checked with a local indy shop to have this work done. I've got nearly 200k on this thing, so I'm likely overdue for some things.

At any rate, I was quoted around $1500 to have the following work done:

1) New control arms
2) New ball joints
3) Alignment

I honestly was just expecting them to quote me a price to press in new bushings, but it sounds like that's not in the cards here. Given the mileage, I'm not completely foregoing that the ball joints possibly could be replaced, but just curious if that $1500 number is reasonable for the work being done.

 

[AverageAndy]

That seems pretty high considering new control arms with bushings and ball joints are $152 at Idparts. Not sure what labor hours are for that job.

Front Control Arm Kit (Beetle)(NMS) 561407152M 561407151M | IDParts.com - Diesel Parts

 

[pedroYUL]

Don't forget the swaybar links, those are notorious on these later Passats

 

[watatrp]

I was getting a slight clunk going over bumps and changed my swaybar links on my own and the problem went away. Fairly easy to do on your own.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Things just cost more now. Just got a quote for a new roof due to hail damage. $4500 9 years ago and now $14k. Labor and finding someone to do the work right is the biggest hurdle now days. I did my own once and just paid for the alignment. Not hard but tedious. Buying the parts and just replacing them is better/cheaper than doing it all. I am older now and have to pick my projects.

 

[pkhoury]

That seems pretty high considering new control arms with bushings and ball joints are $152 at Idparts. Not sure what labor hours are for that job.

Front Control Arm Kit (Beetle)(NMS) 561407152M 561407151M | IDParts.com - Diesel Parts

If it's anything like my 2013 JSW, a few hours? Granted, in March, from an accident, I had to replace everything between the transmission and the strut. All in all, it's not super duper hard, though, if the OP is mechanically inclined. Still rather high, though. I wouldn't be surprised if you need new shocks/struts too, given the mileage.

 

[NSTDI]

Ask the dealer for comparison.

 

[740GLE]

Hi all, I've been getting the squeaking/clunking going over bumps for a bit now and figured it was time for the compliance bushings to be replaced. I checked with a local indy shop to have this work done. I've got nearly 200k on this thing, so I'm likely overdue for some things.

At any rate, I was quoted around $1500 to have the following work done:

1) New control arms
2) New ball joints
3) Alignment

I honestly was just expecting them to quote me a price to press in new bushings, but it sounds like that's not in the cards here. Given the mileage, I'm not completely foregoing that the ball joints possibly could be replaced, but just curious if that $1500 number is reasonable for the work being done.

Pressing in new bushings isn't complicated, its just time, and time is money. You're at about the same cost of whole new control arms vs shop time of pressing in new bushings. Just to make you feel better, I was quoted about $1500 for pressing in new super pro bushing on my mk7 + alignment, I walked.

As for prices of parts of customer bought vs shop bought, I think the shop will always lose just the way parts sales are these days with 3 tier parts supply chains, I don't think many shops make money on parts, so it just stinks. Many shops have strict no customer parts as the shop is on the hook for parts and fear amazon junk.

 

[kbaisley]

Hi all, I've been getting the squeaking/clunking going over bumps for a bit now and figured it was time for the compliance bushings to be replaced. I checked with a local indy shop to have this work done. I've got nearly 200k on this thing, so I'm likely overdue for some things.

At any rate, I was quoted around $1500 to have the following work done:

1) New control arms
2) New ball joints
3) Alignment

I honestly was just expecting them to quote me a price to press in new bushings, but it sounds like that's not in the cards here. Given the mileage, I'm not completely foregoing that the ball joints possibly could be replaced, but just curious if that $1500 number is reasonable for the work being done.

Sample based on what was recently done on another friend's 2013. He used the solid bushings from I believe the RS3, I will dig up the part number, they were 32 ea for the big ones and the small ones he got from lemford for around $10.00 each. Ball joints from Delphi are $16.00 ea and tie rod ends are 10 ea. End Links 15ea If your mechanic wont press in bushings, Delphi complete control arms are $80.00 ea . Alignment 140.00. Cannot understate the ride improvement going to the solid bush. That should give you the understanding of what takes parts. My buddy was quoted 1200 for remove and replace the lower control arms. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a tough job to do, you'll need to job out the alignment. The rest is straight forward and there are videos on doing it on youtube.

 

[740GLE]

Hi all, I've been getting the squeaking/clunking going over bumps for a bit now and figured it was time for the compliance bushings to be replaced. I checked with a local indy shop to have this work done. I've got nearly 200k on this thing, so I'm likely overdue for some things.

At any rate, I was quoted around $1500 to have the following work done:

1) New control arms
2) New ball joints
3) Alignment

I honestly was just expecting them to quote me a price to press in new bushings, but it sounds like that's not in the cards here. Given the mileage, I'm not completely foregoing that the ball joints possibly could be replaced, but just curious if that $1500 number is reasonable for the work being done.

I see your in NC, give shop dap repair they are over in Cornelius, a bit of a drive but, I'd trust them to not BS the prices

Make an Appointment – Cornelius NC Location – DAP Repair – VW | Audi Repair for the Charlotte NC and Akron OH areas

www.daprepair.com

 

[NSTDI]

My extended warranty covers my LCA bushings, they are on back order at the dealer.

 

[740GLE]

My extended warranty covers my LCA bushings, they are on back order at the dealer.

1K0-407-183-P and 5C0407183A

Are the OE part number should be easily ordered and arrived within 1-3 days.

 

[senez]

Thanks, guys, for the feedback. I mainly wanted a sanity check on the pricing, so it seems like it's not too far out to lunch. The first quote was an indy shop near the house. I also checked with Apex Tuning who does a lot of VW work. Their price was similar, but it was pressing in new bushings and replacing the strut bearings and mounts based on what they usually replace/see with this issue. Parts cost was minimal, mainly a labor cost as you all said.

I am mechanically inclined, but I don't have the tools/materials at my disposal to do this on my own.

 

[tristan81491]

At 200K have you had to do any other steering/suspension work? Asking because I am at 153K and the rear seems to sit a tad lower than my parents' Passat that is at 63K and I am wondering how much it cost if you had done some other suspension work so far.

 

[740GLE]

at that miles shocks and struts and maybe springs wouldn't hurt.

 

[senez]

At 200K have you had to do any other steering/suspension work? Asking because I am at 153K and the rear seems to sit a tad lower than my parents' Passat that is at 63K and I am wondering how much it cost if you had done some other suspension work so far.

No other suspension work on mine. I'm curious about the negative camber on both front wheels that looks like it's on the edge of being in spec according to my latest alignment. Wonder if the bushings will help with that. I've gotten two quotes but haven't yet booked it yet. The one quote is $380 for labor + cost of bushings for just pressing in new ones. They wanted around $700 to replace the strut bearings and mounts, but I'm not sure it needs that?

 

[oilhammer]

The compliance bushings are the latest thing to go on backorder (not surprised, they fail so much). The aftermarket is also starting to get scarce. I just did ONE in a car that only really needed one, normally I just do them in pairs but I could only get one singular bushing from our normal supplier.

Compliance bushings and sway bar links are typically the only things the NMS usually needs, and they eat them like candy for sure. Squeaky sway bar bushings in the cold can happen, too, but there really is no good fix for that (the bushings are part of the sway bar).

 

[senez]

Just following up here. I ended up getting both lower assemblies replaced and an alignment for around $1100. Not as bad as originally envisioned. Plan to do end links myself.

 

[VernK]

Digging this thread up again, as I’ve finally got to do the compliance bushings on our ’12 gasser AT. Just a few questions:

1. The subframe bolts are stretch bolts meant to be replaced, is that a 100% requirement? The car has never had the subframe dropped.

2. If I go for just replacing the bushing vs new control arm, do you need/should replace the front bushing too?

3. The manual tells you to remove the sway bar links, rear exhaust mount & some other details when dropping the subframe, is that necessary if you’re just dropping it enough to get bolt clearance? I’ve watched several Youtubes on this now, and nobody seems to be doing more than just the subframe bolts and dogbone. But then again, Youtuber’s tend towards the hacker side of competency and/or leave bits out the video.

Yours
Vern

 

[oilhammer]

I don't replace the subframe bolts unless they look like they have been rusted badly along the shank or threads.

The entire subframe comes down easily. I take the exhaust hanger bolts out, the roll mount bolts out, leave the steering shaft attached inside, drop it down and use a spare tire jack to roll the engine/trans forward and away and you'll get enough clearance to get those forward bolts out. I do a LOT of these, they are not at all hard.

I don't mess with the forward bushing... if it was bad, then I'd just replace the whole arm.

 

[740GLE]

I don't replace the subframe bolts unless they look like they have been rusted badly along the shank or threads.

The entire subframe comes down easily. I take the exhaust hanger bolts out, the roll mount bolts out, undo the transmission dog bone bolts leave the steering shaft attached inside, drop it down and use a spare tire jack to roll the engine/trans forward and away and you'll get enough clearance to get those forward bolts out. I do a LOT of these, they are not at all hard.

I don't mess with the forward bushing... if it was bad, then I'd just replace the whole arm.

I have to think the dog bone gets unbolted from the tranny and left flopping around.

 

[VernK]

I think I’m going to put a pair of aftermarket arms in, then refurb the OEM arms at my leisure for the next time. So my next question is the aftermarket prices run from about 100$ up with the ball joint, while the OEM are listing around 250$ without the joint, can anybody recommend a aftermarket brand?

Yours
Vern

 

[drew_t]

I just did mine this week. I used Febi Bilstein arms from FCP Euro, which are the ones they include in a kit of parts for the front suspension. I basically ordered the kit less the sway bar links, which I have already replaced.

I used the method shown in this video:

, which avoids the necessity of dropping the subframe. It’s a little unnerving laying on your back and trying to muscle the engine/trans forward far enough to get the driver side front bolt out, but it can be done. The guy in the video kind of breezily says the new arms “find their place” with some jiggling, but I found it to be a real struggle getting the bolt holes lined up and then getting the ball joint studs back through the holes in the control arm.

I ordered the two bolts for the dogbone and the four control arm bolts from a local VW dealership. FCP stocks the control arm bolts that they changed to in mid-2013, but not the earlier ones. My 2013 MY car was built in late 2012 accordingly to the plate in the door jamb, so I went with the early bolts. Apparently the newer ones are just slightly longer than the older ones.

I held off on installing the new ball joints because I was hoping to avoid the need for an alignment, but my steering wheel is now very slightly off-center, so I guess that didn’t work.

I also found in the course of doing this work that my oil filter housing was leaking all over the place, so I had to do that miserable job as well. It was not a great week here.

 

[Highwaylizard]

Just finished up replacing the lower control arms, inner and outer tie-rods, sway bar links, and ball joints. All in, including buying a special tool for the tie rods on Amazon, and bolts from VW, I spent about $350. The local shop wanted $2,700 to do this. I just cannot afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff for that kind of price. I still need to get the alignment done as the car pulls to the left.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Just finished up replacing the lower control arms, inner and outer tie-rods, sway bar links, and ball joints. All in, including buying a special tool for the tie rods on Amazon, and bolts from VW, I spent about $350. The local shop wanted $2,700 to do this. I just cannot afford to pay someone to do this kind of stuff for that kind of price. I still need to get the alignment done as the car pulls to the left.

Congratulations! Labor has always been the issue for the most part in getting work done. A relatively inexpensive part that requires a fair amount of labor to install and put things right. Too bad more people won't invest the time to learn and do for themselves. I predict in the near future this will be a necessity as finding skilled people is becoming harder to do. Things are changing and doing for yourselves is becoming more important than paying someone else to do for you. Finding simpler less complicated things that are well made will come back into favor. My choices for things are changing.

 

[VernK]

Going to be giving this Metrix brand a try. Seems to be well made, well packaged.

Yours
Vern

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• VernK
• May 9, 2024