They appear to be exactly the same as the one's available locally from Princess Auto, about CDN$30 for the set when on sale (which is often). Just used the same units for my install - worked well. Be nice if they had a second ball-detent to hold the retention pins in the retracted position, and maybe a hex head in the opposite end so you could still torque them "upside down"... but for the price, highly recommended.Jwheelwr said:I really like that spring compression tool. What brand are they? Link perhaps?
JMason said:Thanks for a great write up. Should there typically be a space between the "stop" and the strut tower (inner fender) with the wheels on the ground? I just put in new struts, without new mounts and have a 3/8" gap in this area. It doesn't look right to me.
Congrats on getting the job done - looks like it was in desperate need of attention!NarfBLAST said:Also the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right will all new parts, I think last couple of times I had it in for the classic wheel bearing clunk they only replaced the bearings and nothing else.
I wonder if I need new struts, they are supposed to be gas presurized right? The drivers side could be compressed easily and would not return to full extension unless pulled out manually, then it would stay there on its own. The passenger side would not stay up past three inches from full extension. Both sides pass the bounce test, barely, the passenger side being slightly worse than the drivers... if it gets worse, I think I could handle doing the struts.
neimis said:I have the "type B" compressors (black steel hooks, Princess Auto). I'm hoping to install them upside down. I think bayshorecs idea of welding on a nut is great, but I don't have a welder. Instead I'm thinking of jamming two nuts tightly together, if I can get them to align, so much the better. If they don't loosen while turning, it should work...
Will post if it is successful or not...
You can find them here also:chromeBuddha said:Where did you get the spacers, part J10 412 311A? I checked 1stvwparts.com and the number came up empty in their search.
that could possibly be a spacer installed at the factory to prevent the suspension from settling during shipping. if so, the dealer should have removed it.2TDIguy said:Am doing my struts on the 2003 A4 Jetta TDI today. After getting the first one off I found this (pic/ link) solid nylon "snap in" part on the strut shaft under the rubber bumper. Anyone know what this does or if it should go back in?
I was replacing the struts. I think I saw in one of the ETKA images that there is supposed to be a plastic cap that snaps into the allen socket in the strut shaft to prevent water from getting in there and corroding the socket and causing a later strip. I covered my new ones in a nice tape to try and prevent future corrosion.tuscTDI said:ta79pr, did you have to replace the struts? or could you get the nut to tighten back?