Flush the Brakes, need some tips..

[sackman]

So Ive been pouring over all these threads, some good stuff in here:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc24.shtml

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3183602-DIY-Brake-Flush-MK4&p=73128466

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=480733


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=330533&highlight=brakes+flush+diy


But.... I dont think I want to use or make a Motive speed bleed. I just want to do it the good ole' fashoned way..

I know there are two methods I can use:

1) the open up all the bleeders method and let it slowly sep out.
- my Question on this is do I also just open the clutch bleeder and will it just sep out until it turns blue?

2) The pump the brakes method: where I start by opening the rear bleeders and work my way to the front and ending with the clutch.
-Question on this is I know pumping the brakes pushes the fluid out the brake bleeders, so would pumping the clutch push the fluid out the clutch bleeder? and is that the right order or should I bleed the clutch first to avoid mixing with the old fluid?

 

[Got Bearings?]

Just buy the Motive bleeder. It becomes stupid easy and saves you time.... not to mention not needing another person.

 

[Conrad -JSW]

Just buy the Motive bleeder. It becomes stupid easy and saves you time.... not to mention not needing another person.

+1 I have one for my motorcycle and it makes bleeding the brakes and clutch a 10 to 15 min job.

 

[03Springer]

Per the Bentley Manual you start with the left front, right front left rear and right rear. For the clutch open the bleeder and have a hose and a container to catch the old brake fluid, press the clutch to the floor and pull it back up with your hand. Make sure the tube hooked to the nipple is sitting in an inch or two of brake fluid so you don't suck air if you leave the nipple open while you are either pressing the brake or clutch pedal.

 

[whitedog]

Make sure the tube hooked to the nipple is sitting in an inch or two of brake fluid so you don't suck air if you leave the nipple open while you are either pressing the brake or clutch pedal.

A 3 inch loop in the hose prevents this as well. The fluid fills the loop then the air will travel over the top and won't come back past there. Just pump slowly.

Sackman, what about the ABS assembly? You will want to flush that as well and you will need VCDS to do that?

 

[03Springer]

The ABS only needs to be purged with the VCDS if the lines going to it are opened, otherwise just bleed the brakes normally.

 

[whitedog]

The ABS only needs to be purged with the VCDS if the lines going to it are opened, otherwise just bleed the brakes normally.

But isn't there old fluid still in the ports and passages there?

 

[03Springer]

But isn't there old fluid still in the ports and passages there?

No, when the new fluid is added to the master cylinder reservoir
that is the high point and it goes through the ABS unit then to the wheel cylinders. Per the Bentley the only time you need to flush the ABS module with VCDS is when either of the two front brake lines are opened prior to the ABS unit or the module is removed and replaced.

 

[RT1]

x2 on the motive bleeder. It doesn't take a second person to pump the brakes and takes less time overall. Try it. You'll like it. Another tip: alternate the standard amber brake fluid with the blue racing fluid. It's positive visual reinforcement that you've pumped all the old fluid out when the color changes.

 

[simbolo]

In my experience the motive is pretty slow, take a look at the speed bleeder valves, you just open and pump your brake and also don't need another person and the fluid moves a lot faster than with motive.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

[JB05]

I recently installed the speedbleeders, but there is no way to actually watch for any or all the air to purge out for a one man operation. I did see the blue fluid through my hose, but how do I know if there are still any air pockets in the lines. I bled each wheel twice, pumping and refilling the resevoir several times; running back and forth to each wheel. IMO, it still takes two people, but they are a nice feature. My brake peddle now feels softer than before I did the bleeding process.

 

[sackman]

Per the Bentley Manual you start with the left front, right front left rear and right rear. For the clutch open the bleeder and have a hose and a container to catch the old brake fluid, press the clutch to the floor and pull it back up with your hand. Make sure the tube hooked to the nipple is sitting in an inch or two of brake fluid so you don't suck air if you leave the nipple open while you are either pressing the brake or clutch pedal.

I had thought for the 99.5-01.5 it was RR-LR-RF-LF Clutch..?

Thats what I did so maybe I got the order reversed? (I ended up splurging on the motive, you were right way easier) but the brake is still squishy and my brakes are still dragging. So I don't know, can anyone say for sure what the correct order is for a '00?