First VW CC TDI swap

[r3gill]

Took a diesel engine and 6 speed manual Transmission out of a wrecked 2014 vw jetta and planted it into a German made 2013 vw CC gasser with an auto. The swap is 100 percent done and car hauls with 6 speed stick... All that while returning 50 mpgs...
Credit goes to vwztips for his contribution to the swap. He's a great guy. Check post #55 for more details on this swap.

CC TDI

17 new items · Album by Jairaj Gill

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[Nuje]

Nicely!
Done!

 

[calimustang]

damn! nicely done!

 

[r3gill]

Thanks!! Will post a better vedio once she's 100 percent done and all detailed. Just got the A/C recharged today and it's working great. Love the comfort of this long wheel based car compared to my wifes Jetta and my beater golf. The CC is a boat compared to them.

 

[calimustang]

LOL how long did the swap take? I have considered of an VW CC CJAA swap a while ago.

 

[r3gill]

wiring was the main time killer, took me a week to sort out the wiring. I own a semi truck and trailer repair buisness, found a slow week to fiddle with the wiring. All done properly, soldering the wires with shrink tubes etc. Wrapping the wires like factory would do with tesa tape. The rest of the swap was just mechanical bits which any shade tree mechanic could do.

 

[tristan81491]

After seeing these (especially in R-Line) in Europe, I have always wanted to do this swap. Amazing work!

 

[r3gill]

The swap is 100 percent successful, I was able to clear the Christmas tree on the dash.

New item by Jairaj Gill

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Thursday,24,August,2023,16:00:45:00009
VIN: WVWBN7AN9DE505122 License Plate:
Mileage: 217140km-134924mi Repair Order:
Chassis Type: AN-VW46 (7N0)
Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 2E 42 44 46 4C 4F 52 53 55 56
62 6C 72 77
VIN: WVWBN7AN9DE505122 Mileage: 217140km-134924miles
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
4C-Tire Pressure II -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CJA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 030 N HW: 03L 907 309 AA
Component: R4 2.0l TDI G000SG 9983
Revision: 12H16--- Serial number:
Coding: 0050072
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 397998E370599B4585-806C
VINID: 9E69D278745E25454500504208C2A252D3
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 X X
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[superduty_59]

That's awesome! I've always liked the CC's and thought a TDI CC would be cool. I can't believe it hasn't been done sooner especially a TDI CC 4motion!
I know you used a Jetta CJAA as a donor. I'm wondering if you had a 2014 Passat CKRA donor would it be easier to swap drivetrain and complete harness? I can't imagine the two would be that much different. You wouldn't have any wiring to figure out that way.

 

[Ragdude]

That. Is. Sweet.
I really like our CC, but 50 mpg's vs 34 would be great

 

[r3gill]

That's awesome! I've always liked the CC's and thought a TDI CC would be cool. I can't believe it hasn't been done sooner especially a TDI CC 4motion!
I know you used a Jetta CJAA as a donor. I'm wondering if you had a 2014 Passat CKRA donor would it be easier to swap drivetrain and complete harness? I can't imagine the two would be that much different. You wouldn't have any wiring to figure out that way.

The NMS Passat and the CC are two very different animals. The NMS is not a real Passat. The ckra is likely doable with just as much work as the cjaa, I am not a fan of CKRA engine, Just went thru my first tank with 70/30 hwy/city driving and the CC is sitting at 45.2 mpgs US. And this is without even trying to get mpgs, if I get on the hwy and drive for mpgs i see 55mpgs all day long. This is a range of 900+ miles with 1 tank.

New item by Jairaj Gill

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[r3gill]

That. Is. Sweet.
I really like our CC, but 50 mpg's vs 34 would be great

I bought this CC with a blown dsg,, Been a life long TDIer, I thought about putting a used dsg in the cc and keep the 2.0t gasser, then I opened up the fuel cap and it said "91 premium" that's the time I dropped the 2.0t idea, the gasser had to go lol.

New item by Jairaj Gill

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[lemoncurd]

All done properly, soldering the wires with shrink tubes etc

love the swap but one cannot say "done properly" and "soldering the wires" in the same sentence in an automotive scene. There is reason that genuine VAG repair documents call for using butt or crimp connectors for mending wires together.

A solder joint in an automotive, aerospace, or motorsports application will cause eventual wire fatigue and failure at or near the soldered joint. This is because the wire itself is quite flexible, meanwhile the solder joint (and thereby solder which escapes into the protective sleeve of the wire) are not flexible. Over time the solder will develope micro fractures and slowly have worse and worse contact with the wire(s) it has been mended to.

Best case you have a slightly higher load on the wire due to higher resistance
Worst case you burn the car down.

There is a reason OEM's do not solder wires together, or soldered if at all!

 

[r3gill]

love the swap but one cannot say "done properly" and "soldering the wires" in the same sentence in an automotive scene. There is reason that genuine VAG repair documents call for using butt or crimp connectors for mending wires together.

A solder joint in an automotive, aerospace, or motorsports application will cause eventual wire fatigue and failure at or near the soldered joint. This is because the wire itself is quite flexible, meanwhile the solder joint (and thereby solder which escapes into the protective sleeve of the wire) are not flexible. Over time the solder will develope micro fractures and slowly have worse and worse contact with the wire(s) it has been mended to.

Best case you have a slightly higher load on the wire due to higher resistance
Worst case you burn the car down.

There is a reason OEM's do not solder wires together, or soldered if at all!

You might be correct, but I been using crimp connectors and solder over 25 years now, I am yet to see one of my soldered connections go bad, can't say the same for a crimp.
I had option to use either crimp or solder, but I chose soldering since it's the one I trust more.

Yes, the wire is more flexible when you solder but with quality shrink tubes and once you wrap the wiring looms with tesa tape, then secure the wiring so it won't rattle/move going down the road, solder is a better connection in my opinion.

Manufacturers are trying to save every millisecond while production, I can give you alot of examples I see everyday at work. Soldering obviously is more time consuming.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

There is a reason OEM's do not solder wires together

Soldering wires is a repair job. OEMs build new.

 

[r3gill]

If a soldered wire can last under a hood of a class 8 semi truck which hauls across the ice roads of Canada, I am sure a soldered wire will do just fine under a cars hood, a poor solder is worse then a good crimp, but a good solder is better then a good crimp. Just an opinion.

 

[lemoncurd]

Soldering wires is a repair job. OEMs build new.

wrong. soldering wires is NOT a repair job. crimping is! you will never catch an OEM soldering wires in this age. go look at any harness repair TSB or recall, the fix is either 1 of 2 things. 1: replace the harness or 2: recrimp connector / affected harness

If a soldered wire can last under a hood of a class 8 semi truck which hauls across the ice roads of Canada, I am sure a soldered wire will do just fine under a cars hood, a poor solder is worse then a good crimp, but a good solder is better then a good crimp. Just an opinion.

anecdotally this is true. but there are engineers and material scientists paid much much more than likely 99% of the people on this forum, with even more knowledge that would argue otherwise. thus OEM's do not recommend soldering in any case.

dont believe me?
take a look at this HKG TSB for a faulty EGR harness

23-EE-006H Hyundai Engine Control System TSB

23-EE-006H Hyundai Engine Control System TSB

www.tsbsearch.com

 

[turbodieseldyke]

you will never catch an OEM soldering wires

Again, why would an Original Equipment Manufacturer be soldering wires in a brand new harness? Ok, maybe at a couple rare Y-splits, but they're starting with brand new wires of the exact specified color and gauge and length, with ends crimped and snapped into housings.

 

[r3gill]

This should put the debate to rest. This publication by xentry/Daimler/Mercedes.. Check it out!!

By the way cummins sells the repair sensor pigtails with the solder connectors already in the repair kit..

New item by Jairaj Gill

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[lemoncurd]

Again, why would an Original Equipment Manufacturer be soldering wires in a brand new harness? Ok, maybe at a couple rare Y-splits, but they're starting with brand new wires of the exact specified color and gauge and length, with ends crimped and snapped into housings.

again, you seem to have entirely missed when i say repair

soldering may be fine, but it isnt what VAG recommends.

 

[P2B]

There is a reason OEM's do not solder wires together,

There are actually a couple of places buried in a MK4 VW harness where Y-joints are soldered.

Repairs are location dependent - try soldering broken wires at the flex point of a door harness, won't last long at all - but if the repair is not subject to flexing or vibration soldering will last forever and is the least bulky solution.

I have used these to splice in new glow plug harnesses:

https://www.amazon.ca/Kuject-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B073RMRCC3

No long term experience yet, but the low melting point solder they use (l assume Wood's metal or similar) is softer than standard solder which might be better in this application.

 

[zipitie.nz]

you must be fun at parties…

love the swap but one cannot say "done properly" and "soldering the wires" in the same sentence in an automotive scene. There is reason that genuine VAG repair documents call for using butt or crimp connectors for mending wires together.

The man has done a awesome swap. Well done!

I love it!

Would not be mad about having one just like it. alas My 22 Tiguan is a 2.0T Running diesel in NZ now is more expensive then petrol so its no longer worth it for Daily runners

good **** for doing something different.

 

[zipitie.nz]

I for one would love to see some more pictures of the completed swap.

 

[r3gill]

I for one would love to see some more pictures of the completed swap.

CC TDI

17 new items · Album by Jairaj Gill

photos.app.goo.gl

Here you have it. Thanks .

 

[lemoncurd]

yeah, beyond me being stickler about automotive wiring.. good job on the swap. i've long wondered how a TDI would be in a CC. theyre quite nice cars.

now damnit, you have me looking at marketplace for a mechanically toasted CC lol

 

[zipitie.nz]

looks right at home in there!

i dig it

 

[GTiTDi]

again, you seem to have entirely missed when i say repair

soldering may be fine, but it isnt what VAG recommends.

VW can barely find people competent enough to remove the shipping pucks from front struts during a PDI never mind do precise solder repairs that dont end up with solder wicked up the wire inches away from the repair. Also they're trying to pay their techs diddly-squat and cutting labor times left and right....THE FASTEST way to repair a wire is with a butt-splice crimp connector, the most RELIABLE way to repair a wire is with solder and heat shrink, done PROPERLY. This is a skill that takes EXPERIENCE.

We get it Lemonturd; YOU CAN"T SOLDER

 

[lemoncurd]

We get it Lemonturd; YOU CAN"T SOLDER

bahahaha, thanks i got a good laugh out of that

 

[zipitie.nz]

Maybe we should have a separate Thread thats a war of words/assault on the Merits of Soldering versus crimping.

 

[r3gill]

I keep my tdis long term, so I will post my issues with soldering if there's any. Nothing to hide, if I start having issues I will remove the wiring again and use butt connectors.

BTW the engine harness is brand new, the only changes that you need to make is to the chassis harness that sits underneath the battery tray at a secure location. so butt connectors will do just fine, I took my time for soldering to make myself feel better.