I'm guessing you just introduced a big ole air bubble in the fuel supply system. Bad luck. Easiest for a quick fix would be to remove the thermostatic tee and top off the fuel filter. Use a small coat of grease on the o-rings when re-intalling. Another possible would be to hook up a battery charger and repeatedly crank. Be careful not to overheat the starter, maybe 8" crank 2' rest.
Lots of good info in this comment. I recently cracked a "T thermostat" while changing the filter. My symptoms were like the OP's. On the way home from the auto parts story (trying to buy a new O-ring --dealer wanted $289 for a "T" and a spare set of O-ring), car died on me -- first time in 545,000 miles I was on the side of the road wrenching. I dribbled a little on the filter top from my spare engine oil bottle to try to temporarily seal up the crack, loosened one injector nut, it turned over three times and sputtered. Then I tightened the injector nut and it started right up. I got home, it stumbled a time or two on the next start up so I called ID Parts, got a new "T" (tip, pretty much the only place that there's enough pressure in the fuel system to make a noticeable leak is the "T" or the metal pipes from injector pump to the injectors -- they almost never leak and when they do, it's easy to see where it is and it's usually at connections. The reason for this is that most of the rest of the system works under suction from the injector pump -- a leak isn't good because air gets into your system but it has to be a major hole for visible fuel to leak out.)
Put the IDParts "T" on with the new O-rings, greased lightly as Bob says. Not a whiff of a problem since then. Oh, and the IDParts price was about 1/6th of the dealer price. BTW, the new "T" comes with O-rings but I bought a couple of extra packages (there are two) just to have spares.
Also, if you need to fill a filter, what works well is "Power Service - silver bottle". It helps with fuel system cleanliness, it's mostly diesel fuel anyway, and it comes in a neat, clean bottle (which won't be neat and clean after you've tried to dribble it into a funnel in the "T" cavity in a fuel filter but it's better than trying to fill a little bottle at a service station). I poured about 6 - 8 ounces into a mustard bottle from the Dollar Store and used that to fill the filter. I think that amount had it pretty well filled -- if you get that much in it, the action of the returning fuel from the engine will push any remaining air back to the tank and fill the filter all the way up as you drive the first few miles. The engine sucks fuel from the bottom of filter so it doesn't matter if there's a little bubble of air in the top, that bubble will be gone soon anyway.
Apple-Oh-Gees for all the words but it really is a simple system and it's pretty easy to take care of. HTH. MrG
Since I'd found a nipped O-ring when I took it apart, I unclipped the two metal clips on the fuel pipe connecting points by sliding them back along the rubber pipe (I had to do that anyway to change the "T") and slipped the rubber pipes off the "T". Then I refitted the greased "T" without the fuel pipes being attached. That made it a lot easier to replace the "T" without rocking and taking a chance on damaging the new O-rings. Then I put the "Micky Mouse clip" in place, put a tiny dab of grease on the "T" barbs, gently slipped the pipes on and then slid the metal clips into position. The little ears on the metal clips can just be compressed with a pair of pliers to expand them so they slip of the bump in the pipe caused by the barbs on the "T".