Fighting water pump

[STDOUBT]

Well, I'm in a jam. I researched on here and found that it's possible to r&r the water pump w/o un-doing the motor mount.
Got the 3 bolts out, but the water pump won't budge. Thought I could wiggle it out, but nope.
Tried a small crowbar, and it tilted a bit, but the only other way I can get it to move is back seated again.
How tough is it supposed to be to pull this thing out?

Also, while releasing the belt tensioner, my metalnerd wrench broke. The tensioner seemed way over tight. Scary tight.
Resorted to un-doing the nut, and it fell backwards. Thinking I better get a new one.

History:
2014 @ 82,000 mi. - Timing belt kit done by trusted mechanic.
2021 @ 138000 mi. - Timing belt kit done by me - done early since I had to pull the IP for repair. Just decided to do it like an idiot.
Not sure why now.
Since it was early, I left the water pump in there - now the water pump has 69,000 mi. on it and is leaking.
Questions:
#1 How do I get the water pump out?
#2 Did I kill the water pump by over-tensioning the cam belt tensioner?

 

[burpod]

well, its not possible to "kill the water pump" over tensioning cam belt..

 

[STDOUBT]

well, its not possible to "kill the water pump" over tensioning cam belt..

Thank you, that actually helps a lot

 

[JETaah]

By the looks of the cam pulley you are working on an ALH, right?
Got an air compressor?
Reseat the pump with the screws partially in leaving the stuck side with more slack on that bolt i.e., so that it will force the stuck side to break loose.
Squirting a bit of WD40 in the crack and working it around will also help to break the bond.
Plug the nipple on the reservoir and gently apply air to the top hose. POP!
Don't get nuts with the air pressure. No more than 18PSI for dang sure. Grant it, it will move the pump before anything else but you don't want to tax all the other gaskets and mainly not the heater core.

In all honesty, you might want to get the motor bracket out of the way to clean up the bore for the WP. If the pump got stuck then there may be a good amount of corrosion going on there. Give the new oring a nice clean surface to seal upon.

 

[jokila]

I always leave the bolts partially screwed in as much as it can let me use an angle crowbar as the fulcrum and pry under the cog wheel. As the pump works its way out I unscrew the bolts out to raise the fulcrum point.

 

[greengeeker]

Also, while releasing the belt tensioner, my metalnerd wrench broke. The tensioner seemed way over tight. Scary tight.
Resorted to un-doing the nut, and it fell backwards. Thinking I better get a new one.

I don't understand what you're saying here. Are you saying the nut was torqued on too tight? Or are you saying the tension was too high? It looks close to the right tension based on image.

Dieselgeek sells water pump removal screw kits if you really need them.

Like jokila said, I just use a prybar and pry against the accessory bracket from underneath the water pump pulley. Pops them right out.

 

[STDOUBT]

I don't understand what you're saying here. Are you saying the nut was torqued on too tight? Or are you saying the tension was too high? It looks close to the right tension based on image.

Had a massive brain shart. For some reason I thought "I'll just release the tension on this thing without loosening the stud nut first".
That's why my tool broke. smdh. Anyway, I think the tensioner's fine after all. I'll inspect the backside and etc for sure.
So the pump came out nicely once I just kept prying little by little.
Thanks guys, I think I'm home free. Have to wait until Saturday tho.
Cleaning as I go, it's nice getting all the old wet dusty grime off and out of that crank area!

 

[gforce1108]

Dieselgeek used to include water pump removal "tools" - short bolts that bit into the pump housing but spun against the block. They "Jacked" out the pump at all 3 points. Normally not needed, but very helpful on a stuck one!