Eurovan ALH-TDI swap but no start : (

[ken.fresno-tdi]

Hi all, I've trying to figure out why I have a no start on my Eurovan ALH-TDI conversion. . I've been playing with TDIs for 15+ years so am quite familiar with them. I've also done two successful AHU-TDI -> Eurovan conversions so I am familiar with the basic conversion issues. I took the ALH engine out of my 2001 Jetta with 150K miles several years ago; took it apart down to the head, had head cleaned and surfaced; all new accessory parts; bought a rebuilt IP, and had engine wiring harness redone at Fast-Forward Automotive (https://shop.fastforward.ca/), including deleting immobilizer, mild-tune, and nozzle upgrade. Put it all together a few months ago but caught up in work, so now trying to start it for the first time. Triple checked static engine timing - IP and crank and cam are all timed as they should be using Metalnerd timing tools. Made sure plenty of fuel was coming out of IP using mity-vac pulling out air at fuel return outlet. Getting good squirts of fuel from each injector when cracking open injector nuts. I have 12V and good 109 relay (Fastforward wiring harness includes a relay with red light on top to indicate 12v). 12V measured at several of the 109 relay sensors including N75 valve and N109 valve. Tied anti-shudder flap open to make sure it was not cutting air to intake. Have initial 12v to fuel-shutoff solonoid, falling down soon after it starts (which is normal from what I understand). cranks very well with new battery. VCDS gives me three codes: 17970-Quantity Adjuster P1562 error - 'upper limit reached' - intermittent; 17569 Manifold Temp sensor (G72) P1161 "open or short to plus' (I'll check that but I don't think anything serious for starting); and 16491 manifold pressure sensor P0107 signal too low (could be because exhaust is not yet hooked up). One concern is the first error code re quantity adjuster: Would that prevent it starting? I don't know why I would get that code on a newly rebuilt IP... ? The engine sat for three years because of work busyness but I had the engine all together and sitting on a engine stand in my garage prior to putting it in the van this winter. The ALH engine is tilted forward about 20-30 degrees in the Eurovan instead of backwards about 15 degrees in the Jetta; I assume that is not an issue since the Vanagon TDI conversion sits very different from stock.

What else have I forgotten to check??

 

[jimbote]

Angle is not an issue. Try adjusting the QA toward the transmission.

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

Thanks much - I just reread the myturbodiesel.com description of the hammer mod (https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm) and figured the same thing. .. I'll report on results as soon as I have time to do it...

 

[jimbote]

Thanks much - I just reread the myturbodiesel.com description of the hammer mod (https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm) and figured the same thing. .. I'll report on results as soon as I have time to do it...

It's the reverse of the normal hammer mod. You want more fuel, not less. If that doesn't get it, then your rebuilt pump is suspect.

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

got it. The error code is "P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached," which means, I assume, the IQ is off the charts high - I need to lower the IQ by tapping it towards the transmission, thereby increasing fueling.

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

well.. no luck yet. (just FYI I posted this in MK1V-A4 forum too). I loosened the four IP bolts from the second level of the IP (not the top piece), including the odd shaped special bolt with a metalnerd tool, and tapped the top half of the IP towards the transmission. First try still had the same P1562 error code but second try I tapped it some more and now there are no more codes according to VCDS... But it still doesn't start. I will go over everything again - static timing, fuel delivery, air delivery - and see if anything obvious is off. But it's getting frustrating. I have had enough hard-to-start AHU TDI's after putting on rebuilt IP's so I know how finnicky the air in fuel lines can be, but I think this video shows the air has been bled out and there is fuel going to cylinder 3 and 4 (similar in 1 and 2). I suppose the IP could be bad.. ? What else to check on it if the electronics seem to be fine (according to VCDS) and there seems to be enough fuel pressure?

 

[jimbote]

well.. no luck yet. (just FYI I posted this in MK1V-A4 forum too). I loosened the four IP bolts from the second level of the IP (not the top piece), including the odd shaped special bolt with a metalnerd tool, and tapped the top half of the IP towards the transmission. First try still had the same P1562 error code but second try I tapped it some more and now there are no more codes according to VCDS... But it still doesn't start. I will go over everything again - static timing, fuel delivery, air delivery - and see if anything obvious is off. But it's getting frustrating. I have had enough hard-to-start AHU TDI's after putting on rebuilt IP's so I know how finnicky the air in fuel lines can be, but I think this video shows the air has been bled out and there is fuel going to cylinder 3 and 4 (similar in 1 and 2). I suppose the IP could be bad.. ? What else to check on it if the electronics seem to be fine (according to VCDS) and there seems to be enough fuel pressure?

Are you getting any smoke from.the tailpipe?

 

[03Golfer]

Where did you get your rebuilt injection pump?

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

I haven't hooked up the exhaust yet, as I'll need to have a local shop do some fabrication to make the exhaust wind through the steering rack area. But I don't notice any smell or smoke at all - I'll check again when I get out to it this afternoon. I haven't thought of checking air intake issues, however.. What do you have in mind?

I'm using an aftermarket air intake/filter that joins the stock intake pipe down to the turbo. From the turbo I'm using 2" intercooler piping and a front mounted intercooler (FMIC). The IC piping goes from the turbo to the front of the van, through the FMIC, and then back up to the stock intake. You can see part of it in the video above. Plugged intake somewhere? I'll check that....

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

Where did you get your rebuilt injection pump?

Good question. I couldn't find the information through a quick search of past emails. I'll look some more.

 

[03Golfer]

Good question. I couldn't find the information through a quick search of past emails. I'll look some more.

Hopefully not from here?

Automatic Transmission 1.9 TDI Injector Pump 99-07 Jetta Golf Beetle ALH

Rebuilt Injector Pump for VW ALH TDI engines with an Automatic Transmission. Fits 98-05 Beetle, 99-07 Golf, 99-06 Jetta.

www.hansautoparts.com

There was a guy with a van swap he couldn't get to run right and it turned out to be the pump from these guys (mtdi, but I wouldn't trust anything they sell)

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

No, I'm well aware of hansautoparts and various other names he goes by.

I looked it up and saw I ordered it from Dutch Auto Parts in the Netherlands; I've worked with them for all three TDI-Eurovan swaps I've done and haven't had any problems before... but I guess there is always a first. I ordered the rebuilt IP along with various other pieces I needed for the swap.

 

[03Golfer]

The engine sat for three years, correct? How long were the injectors sitting? Have you confirmed fuel is coming from the injectors themselves?

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

I had the head checked and resurfaced, cleaned up the rest of the engine (only had about 150,000 miles) and bought new nozzles with mounting and calibration done at FastForward Automotive in Canada, where I bought the wiring harness and updated the ECU.

Never confirmed that there is fuel actually coming from injectors, however - how to do that in a diesel with no electric connector and high pressure? I've done it for a gas engine car with electric inputs (Prius and other Toyotas) but not a TDI.

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

with some more priming I managed to get it to stumble to life for a second or two... and then stop. I now have the P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached' code again, so I'll tap the IP some more towards the tranny and see if that helps, and prime it again. Hopefully....

 

[super1]

I had the head checked and resurfaced, cleaned up the rest of the engine (only had about 150,000 miles) and bought new nozzles with mounting and calibration done at FastForward Automotive in Canada, where I bought the wiring harness and updated the ECU.

Never confirmed that there is fuel actually coming from injectors, however - how to do that in a diesel with no electric connector and high pressure? I've done it for a gas engine car with electric inputs (Prius and other Toyotas) but not a TDI.

I can't tell from video but if you have glow plugs you can remove them & should see fuel coming of the holes while cranking
yes keep priming it
so you said that the motor ran after the rebuild of your head? sounds like it spinnng pretty fast? what starter do you have in it?

 

[03Golfer]

I had the head checked and resurfaced, cleaned up the rest of the engine (only had about 150,000 miles) and bought new nozzles with mounting and calibration done at FastForward Automotive in Canada, where I bought the wiring harness and updated the ECU.

Never confirmed that there is fuel actually coming from injectors, however - how to do that in a diesel with no electric connector and high pressure? I've done it for a gas engine car with electric inputs (Prius and other Toyotas) but not a TDI.

Pull glow plugs and confirm fuel is making it into cylinders. Could also reorient the lines and have injectors spraying into the air (super messy, can kinda confirm you're not streaming, quick and dirty test) or into jars (not as messy, obviously difficult to see spray pattern). Obviously don't put your hands anywhere near the injector tips while cranking.

I do wonder if it's gummed injectors or IP from sitting.

You could also disable glow plugs and try some ether. Probably not recommended but I'd give it a go on my own stuff anyway

 

[super1]

with some more priming I managed to get it to stumble to life for a second or two... and then stop. I now have the P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached' code again, so I'll tap the IP some more towards the tranny and see if that helps, and prime it again. Hopefully....

Any updates?

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

I tapped the injection pump over some more and now no more error codes. But no start at all. I removed a glow plug to see if any spray or mist would come out of the hole. Nothing after 20 seconds of cranking. So could be a injector issue. Problem is that I have new nozzles, and the old injectors were working fine when I removed and rebuilt the top end. I thought I would get a hold of a boroscope and see if the tops of the pistons were wet after cranking, and/or reconfigure one or two injector lines to allow me to watch the spray outside of the cylinder head as done here: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/diy-injector-test.448586/

 

[ken.fresno-tdi]

I can't tell from video but if you have glow plugs you can remove them & should see fuel coming of the holes while cranking
yes keep priming it
so you said that the motor ran after the rebuild of your head? sounds like it spinnng pretty fast? what starter do you have in it?

thanks for the reply. It is a new starter and new battery for an ALH engine. I don't think I did buy a diesel starter for this swap - there is one sometimes available in Canada for those with 2.5L diesels and manual transmissions. But I know I've used a gas starter before on the Eurovan transmission; it should be plenty fast with a new battery and starter.

 

[super1]

thanks for the reply. It is a new starter and new battery for an ALH engine. I don't think I did buy a diesel starter for this swap - there is one sometimes available in Canada for those with 2.5L diesels and manual transmissions. But I know I've used a gas starter before on the Eurovan transmission; it should be plenty fast with a new battery and starter.

From what I heard before, usually the gas starters don’t make it spin fast enough, I only said that it’s sounds like it’s spinning too fast because I thought you might have no/low compression?
Maybe you can spray some WD-40 into the intake to see if it will start with that?