ESP - Golf/Jetta/Jetta Wagon/NB 2002-2004

Deebeaux

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Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
The last of the parts I need to complete this ESP swap showed up at VW today (repair wires, connectors... $100 worth of crap) and I was just wondering since I did purchase a used steering angle sensor, how I can I be 100% sure it is oriented properly when I put it into my car?

I carefully inspected it and noticed there is a "sight glass" (for lack of a better word) that has a yellow dot in it. The yellow dot moves when you rotate the unit off of "center" and comes back when it's back to center. Does the yellow dot indicate "center?"

I've already got the ESP ABS pump and master cylinder installed, I've got the ASR/ESP light solid on (which is expected) and it is currently complaining I don't have the sensors wired up (which I don't...plan to start that this week.)

I'll also reiterate for anyone doing this, do make 100% sure you swap the pin in the T47 connector others wise the car will be very unhappy. Alarms, flashing dash lights, even some German profanity. :)
 

SilverGhost

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Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
And if there is question about the steering angle being centred, here is how to check. Slowly and gently rotate all the way left (or right) until you feel resistance, then rotate all the way the other way until you feel resistance. Make sure to count the rotations while doing this. Now rotate it back, the same way you started, half of the total rotations you counted.

EX: turn all the way to right, turn to left (4 and 1 half turns), turn to right 2 turns and 1 quarter, THEN turn a little left or right to have connector to steering wheel at top with steering angle sensor sitting how it would be in car (or do this with sensor installed).

I have had to re-centre a few clock springs and steering angle sensors over the years and this is what car manufactures basic procedure is.

Jason
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
Does anyone know where is this connection point located please -
A132 Connection(TCS/ESP), in dash panel wiring harness - the wire starts from the ESP SWITCH T6/5 to T47a/13 and this wire should exist only if the car is equiped with ASR or ESP and has one of this specific switch, my car doesn't have ASR or ESP , but this wire is present on the T47a/13 connector and I don't know where it goes/ends.

Does anyone know where is the other end of this wire grey/black since I don't have any ASR or ESP switch present on my car VW BORA 2005? or where is this connection point - A132 Connection(TCS/ESP), in dash panel wiring harness?

Thank you
 
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graeme86

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Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Location
Brisbane, Australia
TDI
Not yet - fuel is too cheap! - 3.2 VR6 R32
I cannot give you any specifics on this wire.

But on my 2004 RHD R32 the factory has installed two similar loose wires to the ABS unit. This is for retrofit of sat nav.

ON my RHD car the loose ends were in the main dash harness running across the dash. The wire ran into cabin from engine bay in main harness up behind glovebox, then behind Climatronic box.

You will then see on drivers side that main harness runs into the steering column ducting above the column.

There is also a loom branching off down to the floor here.

There is another loom running to all the dash switches as well.

The loose ends were in this area. You will see wires just have some black tape on the ends and should be tucked into harness.

That is the case for the two ABS feeds at least.

The harness I pulled apart for my car does not have the connection point you are interested in, but it should be in a similar location as the wire would run from the same area to the dash switches as well.

If you can't find it, then it will certainly be inside the loom running behind the glovebox which is easy to work on to unwrap as there is plenty of room there.

Otherwise, just run a whole new wire yourself from the controller.

:)
 

blizzard60

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon
It ends in the black cable holder that runs over the steering column, or above the ccm, I can't remember which. It will have one end taped off with black cloth tape.

This is how it was on my '04.
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
Thank you very much graeme86 & blizzard60, very useful info - I already succeeded to unhook the pin from the T47a/13 and I was preparing myself to install a new cable and run it through the small hole in the firewall over the accelerator pedal, but now with your info if I will find the end of this wire - I will hook back to the controller in T47a/13 and the end of the wire(over the steering column) I will solder it direct to my short cable with pin from the ESP switch.

Thank you very much once again.
Silviu
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
Hello,

I just finished my project of retrofitting ESP system on my Bora and I want to thank everybody who posted their knowledge on this forum and helped me to retrofit ESP on my car.
I want to share with you what I found out doing this project and not being explained here:
- If you use a new hydraulic pump after you move the jumper wire from pin 14 to pin 12, but before installing all of the sensors, in order to use your car you should code your esp controller, because it comes from the factory coded 0000000 and first time you start the car you will have the abs and brake lights blinking in the cluster and a lot of noisy beeps, that’s why it should be coded first and you can use your car and install the esp sensors later. I coded mine with 19458 and the cluster becomes quiet, of course having three DTC-s after scanning esp controller with vagcom stating that the three esp sensors missing, but again you can use your car without any problem.
- After I installed all the sensors and ESP switch and calibrated them, all the errors went out and the esp system in my car was active and ready to fulfill its duties, but without having the ESP function test triggered automatically (error 01468 in the controller), I don’t know why (maybe because I used a brand new steering wheel sensor which was perfectly centered and blocked in this position with a plastic ring) I was confused a little because I knew that after finishing all the install this ESP function test should be triggered automatically in order to finish the project, so I went for a drive test to check the system, found a portion of road with sand on it and at 40 km/h I pulled hard the wheel , drifting the car a little and the ESP was activated instantly and the ESP light in the cluster was flickering briefly. Still I wanted to perform also the ESP function test –error 01468 in the vagcom- and I found out that it can be initiate also manually , here it is how: with vagcom you select abs controller , in order to activate basic settings, you click on the coding II button input 40168 code, after that you access the basic settings and here you input 093 and click go button , block 93 is accessed and a message- ESP function test active- will be displayed. In this moment ABS light in the cluster will come on and stays on, also you will have an error code 01468 in the fault code. In order to get rid of the abs light and error code 01468 you should perform the ESP test like this : in a parking lot to have enough free space , you press hard on the brake pedal , this will trigger the test to start and the ESP light will start to blink in the cluster, you will drive the car around 20 km/h in first or second gear, in a figure 8 , if the test was performed ok both lights in the cluster abs and esp will go away meaning your ESP system is working fine.

The only problem I have now is that my brake pedal is not feeling hard like before ESP retrofit, even if I changed the brake fluid, bled the ABS pump and having around 7 cycles of opening/closing front wheels valves to complete ABS pump bleeding procedure, bled the brake system two times , one time using brake pedal depressor to keep brake pedal depressed while opening the valves FL, FR, RL, RR in this order.
I suspect , because I used a new brake master cylinder which I didn’t know that before installation should be bled on the bench first, some air is still trapped inside brake MC .
If anybody have any idea of what to do next to improve pedal feel, but without removing the brake MC to bleed it on the bench, will be very much appreciated.
 

Deebeaux

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
I'm in the midst of an ESP swap myself, and have done a bunch of reading about it. Your comment on the brake pedal feel seems to be very common. It just seems like the ESP Booster/Master Cylinder feels differently. I notice my pedal feeling softer than before, I've even had 2 boosters, it just seems it's that way, or there's a real common mix up in the swap. I also did the full bleed of the brake system, twice, because my first used booster had a vacuum leak. Still have a softer pedal than the non-ESP setup had, however the car stops just fine. Heck, it stops violently if you stomp on it. Does not seem braking power is diminished at all, just different pedal feel.

I will also confirm that you can drive around without the ESP sensors just fine. I did the ABS pump/booster/master cylinder swap the same time I did my 6-speed swap, but am just now getting around to wiring in all the sensors. You just have to stare at the ESP light being on until you get it all wired up.

DEFINITELY DO NOT FORGET THE PIN 14 TO 12 MOVE. You get a very angry instrument cluster otherwise. ;)

I got a used ESP/ABS pump. I didn't have to code anything.

Hopefully I can finish it up this weekend along with my auto-dimming rain-sensing mirror swap.

Dave

Hello,

I just finished my project of retrofitting ESP system on my Bora and I want to thank everybody who posted their knowledge on this forum and helped me to retrofit ESP on my car.
I want to share with you what I found out doing this project and not being explained here:
- If you use a new hydraulic pump after you move the jumper wire from pin 14 to pin 12, but before installing all of the sensors, in order to use your car you should code your esp controller, because it comes from the factory coded 0000000 and first time you start the car you will have the abs and brake lights blinking in the cluster and a lot of noisy beeps, that’s why it should be coded first and you can use your car and install the esp sensors later. I coded mine with 19458 and the cluster becomes quiet, of course having three DTC-s after scanning esp controller with vagcom stating that the three esp sensors missing, but again you can use your car without any problem.
- After I installed all the sensors and ESP switch and calibrated them, all the errors went out and the esp system in my car was active and ready to fulfill its duties, but without having the ESP function test triggered automatically (error 01468 in the controller), I don’t know why (maybe because I used a brand new steering wheel sensor which was perfectly centered and blocked in this position with a plastic ring) I was confused a little because I knew that after finishing all the install this ESP function test should be triggered automatically in order to finish the project, so I went for a drive test to check the system, found a portion of road with sand on it and at 40 km/h I pulled hard the wheel , drifting the car a little and the ESP was activated instantly and the ESP light in the cluster was flickering briefly. Still I wanted to perform also the ESP function test –error 01468 in the vagcom- and I found out that it can be initiate also manually , here it is how: with vagcom you select abs controller , in order to activate basic settings, you click on the coding II button input 40168 code, after that you access the basic settings and here you input 093 and click go button , block 93 is accessed and a message- ESP function test active- will be displayed. In this moment ABS light in the cluster will come on and stays on, also you will have an error code 01468 in the fault code. In order to get rid of the abs light and error code 01468 you should perform the ESP test like this : in a parking lot to have enough free space , you press hard on the brake pedal , this will trigger the test to start and the ESP light will start to blink in the cluster, you will drive the car around 20 km/h in first or second gear, in a figure 8 , if the test was performed ok both lights in the cluster abs and esp will go away meaning your ESP system is working fine.

The only problem I have now is that my brake pedal is not feeling hard like before ESP retrofit, even if I changed the brake fluid, bled the ABS pump and having around 7 cycles of opening/closing front wheels valves to complete ABS pump bleeding procedure, bled the brake system two times , one time using brake pedal depressor to keep brake pedal depressed while opening the valves FL, FR, RL, RR in this order.
I suspect , because I used a new brake master cylinder which I didn’t know that before installation should be bled on the bench first, some air is still trapped inside brake MC .
If anybody have any idea of what to do next to improve pedal feel, but without removing the brake MC to bleed it on the bench, will be very much appreciated.
 

blizzard60

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon
I hate to say it, but mushy pedal = incorrectly bled system (most likely the master or the pump as they are supposed to be pre-bled).

When I first installed my ESP stuff I "ghetto" bled the brakes. When I had some time I did it with a proper vacuum bleeder with two people. Feels better than before the swap!!
 

SilverGhost

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Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Also there is a procedure for bleeding the ABS valve block that required a scan tool to activate pump and valves. I almost never have an issue when replacing ABS units but there is an odd one that has a stubborn air bubble.

Jason
 

Deebeaux

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
I have no doubt. Not my first brake bleeding rodeo, but this is my first VW brake system. I did pre-bleed master, pump I did not, and not quite sure how you'd "pre-bleed" it since it's all done with VAG-COM. I most certainly could have done it wrong.

Prebled the master, followed the Bentley/VAG-COM procedure, twice*, and still ended up where I am.

* = I had to do everything TWICE due to seller sending me a bad booster that leaked vacuum like a screen door on a space station. Doing the VAG-COM pump bleeding procedure twice is brutal. lol.

Perhaps I will invest in a vacuum bleeder, and do it all again some day soon.

I'm not sure if "mushy" is a proper description of how my pedal is now. It's certainly softer than it was with the non-ESP set up, but mushy might be a bit of an extreme term for how my pedal feels.

Is there a good link somewhere to recommended master and pump pre-bleeding procedures?

I hate to say it, but mushy pedal = incorrectly bled system (most likely the master or the pump as they are supposed to be pre-bled).

When I first installed my ESP stuff I "ghetto" bled the brakes. When I had some time I did it with a proper vacuum bleeder with two people. Feels better than before the swap!!
 

Sbeghan

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Location
Triangle, NC
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon 5spd 390k mi
I performed this installation wiring the data lines from the clockspring / steering wheel angle sensor to both the diagnostic orange/brown and orange/black wires and after that didn't work to the wires behind the cluster. The cluster and diagnostic plug are connected to each other (multimeter says so). The sensor was not able to communicate with the ABS computer. So I bought another clockspring and tried it and still nothing. I saw a post here and then wired the data lines directly to the plug on the ABS pump and it works. I then checked the connectivity between the plug on the ABS pump and the cluster and there is no connectivity even though the wiring diagram indicates that there should be. I then checked the connectivity on another car.
2002 Jetta Sedan: Data lines from cluster and abs pump are connected.
2003 Jetta Wagon: Data lines from cluster and abs pump are NOT connected.

tldr:
If you perform this mod on a 2003 or a wagon you may want to route the data wires through the firewall to the abs pump! Would like to get more feedback and see exactly where this wiring change occured.
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
Hello,
I repeated the bleeding process last weekend, following the ELSA procedure:

Pre-bleeding
– Connect brake filling and bleeding unit -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869-.
Bleeding sequence:
1 - Bleed front left and front right brake calipers simultaneously.
2 - Bleed rear left and rear right brake calipers simultaneously.
– Leave bleed valves open until, with bleed hoses still fitted, brake fluid discharges free of air bubbles.
The hydraulic unit must then be bled again with tester -VAS 5051- via function “basic settings”.
Initiate basic (default) settings to bleed brake system.
Connecting -VAS 5051- and selecting functions → Chapter.
– Thereafter bleed brake system as normal.

Bleeding (normal)
Adhere strictly to work sequence when bleeding brake system.
– Connect brake filling and bleeding unit -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869-.
– Open bleed valves in the specified order and bleed brake calipers.
1 - Front left brake caliper
2 - Front right brake caliper
3 - Rear left wheel cylinder / brake caliper
4 - Rear right wheel cylinder / brake caliper
Use suitable bleed hose. It must sit tightly on bleed valve so that no air can enter brake system.
– Leave brake caliper bleed valves open until, with bleed hoses still fitted, brake fluid discharges free of air bubbles.

Subsequent bleeding
To do this a second mechanic is required:
– Depress brake pedal forcefully and hold.
– Open bleed valve on brake caliper.
– Press brake pedal down onto limit stop.
– Close bleed valve with pedal held down.
– Release brake pedal slowly.
This bleed sequence must be carried out 5 times per brake caliper.
Bleeding sequence:
1 - Front left brake caliper
2 - Front right brake caliper
3 - Rear left wheel cylinder / brake caliper
4 - Rear right wheel cylinder / brake caliper
A road test must be carried out after brakes have been bled. When doing this, an ABS regulation must occur at least once!

I used a Motive power bleeder and a VAGCOM for the pump, I consumed 2.5 ltrs of brake fluid and the pedal is not feeling like before the swap.

For Blizzard60:
How did you do it, could you tell us what procedure did you use or give us a link with a procedure?

For Deebeaux:
How did you pre-bled the master cylinder?

Thanks
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
For Sbeghan,

I connected the steering wheel angle sensor in the plenum chamber connection point direct in the T10 white -10 pin connector like this : T10w/2 CAN HIGH - black wire, T10w/3 CAN LOW - white wire, and it worked perfect from the first time, like in the diagram (I used a pair of twisted wires).

How do you feel your brake pedal after brake system bleeding (Is it comparable with the pedal feel before swap)?
 

Sbeghan

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Location
Triangle, NC
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon 5spd 390k mi
My brake system is the same as before. This is what I did, I bled the lines as normal, doing all 4 points, one at a time.
Then, I did the vag com procedure where I let the pump run, then opened up BOTH fronts and used the pedal to bleed them (pumped about 5X), then I closed the fronts and refilled the pump reservoir. Repeated that about 5x.
Then I did one more round of all 4 points just to be sure.
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
1. Did you use a pressure bleeder?
2. Did you followed the vag com abs pump bleeding procedure like this:
[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]


Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold
You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up.

Take your foot off the pedal.

I think it wants you to click on OK at this point.

The screen says something like FR/FL bleed screw OPEN.

Open both front bleed screws. Obviously, on each bleed screw you'll have some tubing going from the bleeder into a catch jar.

Click on OK (or DONE or something like that).

Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars.

Screen says something like: Depr. pedal 10X; bleed screw CLOSED

Depress pedal firmly 10 times, then close both bleed screws.

Click OK.

You'll get sent back to the depress pedal and hold screen and repeat the cycle. It goes on for like 10 or 15 cycles. I never got a finished message, I just did it until the screen said N/A.

Or you did it with the output test?
 

Deebeaux

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
You can find bench bleeding kits for various cylinders on-line. I had one from my Dad's days as a mechanic, sometimes new aftermarket or sometimes OES cylinders will come with a cheapie 1-2 time use version of a bench bleeder kit. Some OES cylinders (not sure if any of the VW ones) come with plugs in the line ports, you can bench bleed with the plugs in place (or so they claim) and you can prove the new cylinder is functioning with the plugs in place as the pedal will be firm. Cardone is one of these manufacturers. With a bench bleed kit the pedal is always free as there's no pressure.

Now the term bench bleed implies it has to be on a bench in a vise, but it's not necessary. At least not in my experience.

You can install the booster/cylinder in the car, install the bench bleeder kit. It's fittings that screw into the outlets of the cylinder and hoses that push on to a barb on the fitting and you stuff them in the reservoir. You then fill the cylinder with fluid and pump the pedal in slow short strokes to work the air out of the cylinder essentially into the reservoir as bubbles and they will clear out with a few pumps.

If you want to do it on a bench, it's fine, but then you have to transport the cylinder from the bench into the car full of fluid and the bench bleeder kit connected. You can work the plunger with any thing you can fit into the plunger area, but I usually use a wooden dowel as to not accidentally score the cylinder.

Either way the cylinder should be level, and the bench bleed lines should be snugly fitting and not allowing any air to enter. Also keep the open end of them submerged into the fluid. The kits usually come with some little plastic clips to clamp the line onto the reservoir, but mine broke long ago. I just use clothes pins or binder clips to do the job.

That being said, I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder the first go 'round (with the bad booster) but I did the second time using the above method (in the car), and still ended up with a less than optimum feeling pedal. Hearing all that, take my advice with a grain of salt. I obviously didn't do it right, or I have another bad part that's claiming to be good.

I may invest in a Motive pressure bleeder and do it all again.

For Deebeaux:
How did you pre-bled the master cylinder?
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
Thank you for your answer , now it's clear for me, still I have one more question,
how did you proceed when you disconnected the brake lines from master cylinder in order to connect the bench bleed kit to not have any fluid leak on the engine compartment and area around?
 

Deebeaux

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Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
There's always some loss, as long as the reservoir doesn't run dry you're good. Put some rags and stuff down so the brake fluid doesn't get on paint and other bits. I also cleaned the area with engine degreaser (Like Gunk's Engine Brite, or similar) and rinsed with water afterward.

Only disconnect one of the bench bleed lines at a time when you go to hook up the ABS pump, if you work quickly and carefully you won't make a big mess. Essentially once you hold the fitting up to the port on the cylinder, it stops leaking, just carefully screw it in.

Thank you for your answer , now it's clear for me, still I have one more question,
how did you proceed when you disconnected the brake lines from master cylinder in order to connect the bench bleed kit to not have any fluid leak on the engine compartment and area around?
 
Last edited:

esilviu

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Location
Romania
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VW BORA
Thanks Dave, very useful info, Iwill post the result here, I will do this operation on the next weekend, this one I will go fishing :) .
 

esilviu

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Romania
TDI
VW BORA
I repeated the bleeding procedure as stated above and the feeling of brake pedal is the same - not as hard as I want - but the braking power is very good , much more better than in other cars I drove before.

One more thing I need to do is to change the rear disks because they are very used(too thin) also this could be the cause...
 

Deebeaux

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Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
I've left the below as a "Learn From My Fail" since I am an idiot today. I was completely ignoring the middle row of connector since there was NOTHING in it, and this is the most likely where all of the wires for this install go. I'm leaving my fail below for those looking at this in the future."

CONFIRMED: I am an idiot, that IS where all the wires needed to go. Should hopefully have this install buttoned up the next time I can work on it.

Learn From My Fail said:
I'm still in the process of this retrofit in my 2003 TDI that didn't have ASR to start with (or ESP obviously) and for the brake pressure sensor and combi-sensor (aka duosensor or yaw sensor) already have pins in the slots on the T47a ABS connector. There are wires attached to these pins as well and they run into the harness. Is this normal? Should they be removed or spliced into? I assumed they should be removed. Well, actually, I assumed they should all be empty.

Also, did you use the pin numbers using the numbers on the wire side of the connector, or the controller side? Bentley uses wire side, but the Germans labeled both sides in opposite order. Either way I count some of the pins are populated already.

For instance on the brake pressure sensor pin 19 is empty, but 18 and 20 are not.
UPDATE on my install. Got the brake pressure sensor wired up, nothing else yet, was able to verify in VAG-COM:

One error down, two to go:


Pushing pedal with car off in driveway:
 
Last edited:

Baumeister

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Location
Auburn, CA
TDI
'15 Beetle Convertible, '03 New Beetle TDI 5sp, '94 Audi Cabriolet(AFN swap in progress)
With help from OldPoopie at the San Pablo GTG, I have everything installed in my '03 NB.
Still having issues getting it finished, here is the coding/codes I am receiving:

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ESP-F.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 M
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Coding: 0022530
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3469CA1A54204E3

2 Faults Found:
01486 - System Function Test Activated
000 - -
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit


I believe I have all sensors calibrated, I walked through the Ross-tech instructions at: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_%281J%29_Brake_Electronics_%28MK60%29#ABS.2FEDS.2FASR.2FESP_.28Front-Wheel-Drive.29

I can see that the steering angle sensor is working,(watch the numbers change), as well as the Lateral Acceleration Sensor. The Brake Pressure Sensor always reads 7.7 bar.
VCDS would not allow me to access Basic Settings for the Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor, but it appears to be working?
From Ross-Tech Wiki:
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201): Electrical Fault in Circuit


Possible Causes


  • Brake Pedal Switch (F) faulty/jammed
  • Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) faulty
Possible Solutions


  • Check/Replace Brake Pedal Switch (F)
    • See Measuring Blocks
  • Check/Replace Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
    • ABS Hydraulic Unit (N55) may need to replaced
    • Perform Brake Pump Bleeding
    • Perform Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) Basic Setting
    • Replace Brake Electronics Control Module (J104)
Special Notes


  • When found in MK60 ABS/ESP Brake Systems:
    • Check if the Repair Kit documented in TPI 2024465 or 2025290 with the Part Number 1K0-698-517-B is compatible, using the Repair Kit allows to replace the Hydraulic Unit (N55) and the Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) separate from the Control Module which will reduce the Repair Costs.


I sourced the ABS pump, clockspring and Combi-sensor via eBay, everything else is new(Brake Pressure sensor). My first fix will be to try the brake pedal switch since that's cheap and I don't recall if its been replaced.

Any other ideas?
 

kd7iwp

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Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Location
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
TDI
2002 Golf GLS
Seems to me that the brake pressure sensor is bad (even though it's new?). I don't see how your brake pedal could be affecting anything, the sensor merely detects the pressure in the fluid, so if you are able to stop your car by pressing the brakes, then we know you have brake pressure. In that case, all I can think is the sensor is bad. If your car isn't able to stop very easily, then we know that the sensor is okay and the system has a leak or needs to be bled.
 

Baumeister

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Location
Auburn, CA
TDI
'15 Beetle Convertible, '03 New Beetle TDI 5sp, '94 Audi Cabriolet(AFN swap in progress)
Thanks, Allen. I'm confused as to whether G201 is the screw-in sensor on the master cylinder(what I assumed) or another sensor within the ABS unit.(what I see googling G201).

I have another sensor for the Master Cylinder to try, I bought a new one before I got my new MC from IDparts, which came with a new one.

Still could be the brake pedal switch, I'm not sure how that could be but it's first on the list and it's a $5 part, should be showing up via UPS on Monday. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll pick one up at the dealer...anxious to get the simple fixes out of the way if it can get this working!
After that, it's a recheck of the wiring and see if I can get a direct reading from the mounted sensor.
 

kd7iwp

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Location
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
TDI
2002 Golf GLS
Yes, G201 screws into the master cylinder and has 3 pins on it that go directly to T47. If the brake pedal switch is bad, your brake lights wouldn't work, so give that a try.
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Doublecheck your wiring to the pressure sensor. Is it possible that its wired wrong? Could it be one of the tapped wires at the abs pump harness?
 

Deebeaux

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Location
Lafayette, LA
TDI
2003 Golf GLS
Another vote for checking the sensor/wiring. If you cannot see the brake pressure moving in VCDS with the operation of the pedal I would suspect the pressure sensor or the wiring. The sensor reading a static pressure could mean whatever the "signal" wire is is just either grounded or open, or the sensor itself is faulty.
 

Baumeister

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Location
Auburn, CA
TDI
'15 Beetle Convertible, '03 New Beetle TDI 5sp, '94 Audi Cabriolet(AFN swap in progress)
All fixed and working! (Yes, it was a pressure sensor wiring error). Now just need to get T47 wiring cover back on(got too frustrated with it and ran out of time today) and seal my firewall wiring grommet hole and DONE.

A quick road test figure 8 at the fairgrounds parking lot 3 blocks away from the house and finally the dash is warning light free.

Just started to rain, too, so I got to try it out right away.
 
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