ESP - Golf/Jetta/Jetta Wagon/NB 2002-2004

[tongsli]

I'm going to get this started and will post pictures when I take them

Parts List:

Master Cylinder: 1J1 614 019C **You must get the Master Cylinder and Brake Booster together. It is IMPOSSIBLE to put an ESP Master Cylinder onto a non-ESP Brake booster. The Bolts and holes will not line up!

The non-esp(master cylinder) bolts are 90 degrees offset from the esp(master cylinder) bolts.

BE 2002-2004
BEC 2003-2004
GOB 2002-2004
JEM 99-01
JEM 2002-2004
JEW 2002-2004

Brake Booster: 1J1 614 106J **-see not above
BE 2002-2004
BEC 2003-2004
GOB 2002-2004
JEM 2002-2004
JEW 2002-2004

ABS Pump and Controller:1C0 907 379M or ..375M
BE 2002-2004
BEC 2003-2004
GOB 2002-2004
JEM 2002-2004
JEW 2002-2004

Canceling Ring/Steering Angle Sensor:1J0 959 654AG
BE 2002-2004
BEC 2003-2004
GOB 2002-2004
JEM 2002-2004
JEW 2002-2004


Combined Sensor
You will need this housing for the sensor:

4B0973712

Using wires 000 979 131, 2 repair wires needed.

Wiring seals 3B0 972 742B(yellow) 4 seals needed.

Master Cylinder Connector for Sensor:1J0 972 483A
using wires 000 979 009, 2 repair wires needed. **I do not have the wiring seal part number. I will look up and post it here. For the other end, use wires 000 979 131, 2 repair wires needed wiring seals 3B0 972 742B(yellow) 3 seals needed

Wiring Diagrams
ESP wiring 2002+ **Be sure to relocate Pin T47a/14 to T47a12. This jumper is an EXISTING wire in the 47-pin connector!! It will not work if you forget this step!!!!

Connector for Canceling Ring
4B0 971 636

Installation Procedure:
1.drain brake fluid from reservoir
2.disconnect all brake lines to Master Cylinder and ABS pump
3.disconnect brake booster from car and release brake pedal
4.remove ABS pump, brake booster and Master Cylinder
5.Install new ABS pump, booster and Master Cylinder, connect brake pedal.
6.Fill power bleeder
7.Bleed all four wheels and clutch slave cylinder
8.Disconnect battery and remove airbag
9.Remove old canceling ring and install new one
10.Connect wires, reinstall airbag and battery
11.Bleed ABS pump and brakes using Vag-com THIS IS A REQUIRED!! If you don't have Vag-com, do not perform this modificiation.
12.Code ABS module and calibrate ESP sensors. Be sure to write down your existing software coding. Look up the digit for ESP in the Bentley's manual.

An example of Software Coding from newjettaguy for a 2003 Jetta Sedan:

Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 4B0 614 517 G
Component: ABS/ESP front 3428
Coding: 04257
Shop #: WSC 05311
No fault code found.

DCTDIWagon's is 04097 - he's got a Jetta Wagon

ESP Calibration

You must complete all the other sensor calibrations before you engage the final driving test.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/steeringangle.html

The driving test, once initiated CANNOT be turned off or stopped UNTIL the ESP is configured. It stays in ESP Configuration Hell! I left the car last night and tonight, after starting the car and stepping HARD on the brake it immediate went into road test mode!

Thanks to Eric (SVTWEB), Glen (MOGOLF) and especially Brian(Strretch) for helping me bleed the clutch and get the ESP sensor configured tonight.

From Glen:

Now perform test drive for maximum 50 seconds at a speed of 15km/h...30km/h:

It must be driven so that no ABS, EDL, ASR or ESP regulation is performed.

Make a turn with steering wheel turned at least 90.

When the ABS warning lamp -K47- and ESP warning lamp -K155- go out, the ESP driving test has been successfully completed.

Here's the deal:

You must, must be going 15kph and they mean it. A figure 8 is best because the turns happen FAST. You need SPEED to get the lateral sensors to trigger.

Speed + hard turns=G-force & Sensor Calibration.

The mistake I was making was not enough speed and not enough G-Force to get the sensor to trigger!!!

 

[jddaigle]

Excellent! Thanks for letting us all in on your work.

Any idea what the total cost of the project will be?

 

[tongsli]

Any idea what the total cost of the project will be?

Looks like I'm gonna be able to pull this off for $650. You can do it for less if you can find a used Canceling Ring.

I'm sourcing my ABS pump, Booster and Master Cylinder all from the bone yards the canceling ring I'm buying new.

L

 

[MOGolf]

This looks like it may work in 2001 model year too for those with the Mk. 60 ABS pump/controller.

 

[tongsli]

Good point Glen, the master cylinder is the same from 1999-2004. The brake booster is shown as different(from 199-2001 and 2002-2004) but I won't know until I get the 2002-2004 booster on Monday.

 

[alhutch]

Tongsli,

I know it isn't an issue for '03 and up folks, but '02 folks have to remember than an '03 ECU is required to enable ESP (or ASR for that matter)...unless you have found a way around that. Also, wouldn't that rule out '01 and before?

I am missing something? Thoughts?

Al

 

[tongsli]

Although my car is running RC Stage 2, ESP has been available in MY 1999 and newer. The older cars 1999-2000 used MK20 pumps with 47 pins.

Glen's 2001 with MK60 pump is running the STOCK 2001 suffix CP Ecu and ASR worked on his car.

I'm not sure what was wrong with the 2002 install and why the ECU needed to be updated. I do know that we didn't know about the ABS module Log-in number that we know works today!

Maybe the Log-in is what was needed back then...who knows. Kennedy has a 2002 but is not running a stock chip. He's the only person I know looking to install ESP in his car.

L

 

[alhutch]

Lito,

I wasn't aware that any A4 cars prior to '03 came to the US with ESP as standard equipment (or did I misread your statement above?). Are you speaking about RC options that come with the Euro ECU modification?

Very interesting that ASR works with just the ABS module change on an '01, but did Glen do the full ESP changeover or just ASR?

Not getting ESP is my one regret with buying an EOY '02 and saving a few bucks (didn't even know it would be offered when I purchased, doh!). Your retrofit doesn't look too painful at all. Thanks for posting this info!

Al

 

[tongsli]

I'm not 100% sure about the 2002's and ASR, but I've been told it was available here. Maybe someone can provide definitive proof.

Glen(MOGOLF) did the ASR only upgrade in his 2001 car with MK60.

my comments about the 1999-2001 model year are VW's in Europe and not VW's available in the US.

L

 

[tongsli]

So, I was able to install the Brake Booster, Master Cylinder and ABS pump with the final sensor underneath the steering wheel.

Now all I need is the proper software coding. Is there anyone out there with a 2003-2004 Jetta, Golf, or New Beetle with ESP and vag com willing to scan your ABS controller and post the software coding?

That's the last piece I need and then a driving test to configure the ESP system.

thanks!

Lito

 

[TeleDawg]

... Is there anyone out there with a 2003-2004 Jetta, Golf, or New Beetle with ESP and vag com willing to scan your ABS controller and post the software coding?

...
Lito

Here is VAGCOM scan of the ABS controller from my 2004 Golf GLS TDI with ESP:

<font color="green">-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 1C0 907 379 M
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Coding: 0019458
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- </font>

Later, T.D.

 

[tongsli]

Thanks! Anyone know how to change the Work Shop Code?

L

 

[SVTWEB]

You can change the workshop code in VAG-COM settings and then when you change a module the new workshop code is propgated to the controller.

 

[NewJettaGuy]

Is there anyone out there with a 2003-2004 Jetta, Golf, or New Beetle with ESP and vag com willing to scan your ABS controller and post the software coding?

thanks!

Lito

Here is the ABS coding from my B5.5:

Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 4B0 614 517 G
Component: ABS/ESP front 3428
Coding: 04257
Shop #: WSC 05311
No fault code found.

 

[DC-TDIWagon]

Here's mine:
soft code: 0004097
WSC: 01266

 

[DSM_TDI]

I ran the part numbers through impexfap.com and got a grand total of $1,513.66 for NEW parts.

 

[tongsli]

Thanks John and Brian,

DCTDIWagon doesn't have ESP. I just asked him to post his info.

I ran the part numbers through impexfap.com and got a grand total of $1,513.66 for NEW parts.

Exactly. That's why www.car-part.com is essential. You can get the Brakebooster, Master Cylinder, ABS pump and sensor between $400-$450 or even less depending upon the bone yard.

I had to end up buying the canceling ring so my cost went up a little bit. I got tired of calling places and getting nowhere with the canceling ring. Most places want to sell that with the airbag.

 

[tongsli]

A quick note about the connector wiring. Make sure you do not forget to move one end of the wire that jumpers Pin38 to Pin14 of the 47-pin connector!!

Thanks to MOGOLF for diagnosing this for me! One end must be re-located from Pin 14 to Pin 12 See page 95/5 of the wiring diagram I posted.

One more piece of infomation: You MUST get the brake booster for the ESP master Cylinder. It is IMPOSSIBLE to put an ESP Master Cylinder onto a non-ESP brake booster. The bolt holes and bolts do not line up.

L

 

[tongsli]

Re: Software Coding

From: Occams_Razor

This is probably late but here you go:

VAG Number 1C0 907 379M
Soft Coding 0019458
ESP Front MK60 0102
Shop # 785 WSC 01266
Extra Geraet 00200

Thanks Ramon! Never too late

L

 

[Kennedy]

A quick note about the connector wiring. Make sure you do not forget to move one end of the wire that jumpers Pin38 to Pin14 of the 47-pin connector!!

Thanks to MOGOLF for diagnosing this for me! One end must be re-located from Pin 14 to Pin 12 See page 95/5 of the wiring diagram I posted.


One more piece of infomation: You MUST get the brake booster for the ESP master Cylinder. It is IMPOSSIBLE to put an ESP Master Cylinder onto a non-ESP brake booster. The bolt holes and bolts do not line up.


L

Well that settles that eh?
Lito, is it working?

 

[tongsli]

You got it Chris! That's the difference. No workie-workie yet. Trying to successfully perform the road test. Spent last night driving around for HOURS with Glen and Eric on the Cell phone!! Finally gave up and went home around 11:00pm.

Score: ESP-1, Tongsli-0

L

 

[VelvetFoot]

Your current ECM programming supports ESP?

 

[tongsli]

Karl,

Which car? the 2004 or 2000?

L

 

[Kennedy]

You got it Chris! That's the difference. No workie-workie yet. Trying to successfully perform the road test. Spent last night driving around for HOURS with Glen and Eric on the Cell phone!! Finally gave up and went home around 11:00pm.

Score: ESP-1, Tongsli-0

L

Well wait... It's installed, you just can't tell if it's working?
Well hell, sounds to me like your all set. I have no idea how your gonna test it without snow.

 

[VelvetFoot]

This is the 2000 you are working on? Perhaps the ECM version does not support ESP..... just a stab in the dark.

Are you expecting the dash light to blink? I know the DSP on our Bimmer blinks if I drive a little aggressively in the dry.

Is there a value you could monitor in Vag-Com to see if it is turned on, that is, does the on-off switch produce a change in this value? I have never looked at this for ASR.

 

[tongsli]

This is the 2000 you are working on?

nein, it's the 2004.

But I do have ESP working in the 2000. RC2.1 supports the ESP. My ABS pump on the 2000 is an ESP MK20 with a 47-pin connector from Germany. You can't get the pumps here in the US!

Dash light (ASR) does blink on the 2000

Now I'm trying to finish the ESP install on the 2004.

L

 

[tongsli]

Well wait... It's installed, you just can't tell if it's working?
Well hell, sounds to me like your all set. I have no idea how your gonna test it without snow.

Chris, not right. There is a final configuration you need to perform which involves driving the car and making left and right turns. If it works, all the lights(ESP and ABS) go out. If the ABS light stays on, then it wasn't successful.

My ABS light is still lit, vag-com confirms the test is still active.

Here's the kicker: the test supposedly CANNOT be stopped until it is performed successfully. When you step on the brake hard, it starts the test.

I'm trying to think of a way to "re-boot" everything so I can start all the way from the beginning of this procedure. Not quite sure how to accomplish this.

L

 

[alhutch]

Lito,

Removal of battery power for a period of time to "reboot"? Think cold boot.

Al

 

[tongsli]

Thanks for the suggestion Al, but guess what??

DONE!! Done, done, done!!! Finished, finished, finished, finished! Fini, beendet, finito, Acabado!

Sorry. After spending hours last night trying over and over again to get the darn ESP sensor calibrated, I gave up and went home.

Today, I called several people including 2002TDI who has a good friend that is a VW tech in DC. Spoke to him for a while and he suggested a figure 8 in a parking lot.

He then told me how he was the only one able to get a car's ESP sensor configured at the training session. Everyone else failed to get it configured. They all eventually figured it out, but he was the first

SO here's the deal...very important.

ESP Calibration

You must complete all the other sensor calibrations before you engage the final driving test. I will post the instructions in a PDF file.

The driving test, once initiated CANNOT be turned off or stopped UNTIL the ESP is configured. It stays in ESP Configuration Hell! I left the car last night and tonight, after starting the car and stepping HARD on the brake it immediate went into road test mode!

Thanks to Eric (SVTWEB), Glen (MOGOLF) and especially Brian(Strretch) for helping me bleed the clutch and get the ESP sensor configured tonight.

From Glen:

Now perform test drive for maximum 50 seconds at a speed of 15km/h...30km/h:

It must be driven so that no ABS, EDL, ASR or ESP regulation is performed.

Make a turn with steering wheel turned at least 90.

When the ABS warning lamp -K47- and ESP warning lamp -K155- go out, the ESP driving test has been successfully completed.

Here's the deal:

You must, must be going 15kph and they mean it. A figure 8 is best because the turns happen FAST. You need SPEED to get the lateral sensors to trigger. Speed plus hard turns=g-force and sensor calibration.

Our third try tonight, after consulting Glen on the phone, we made sure I was going a minimum of 15kph. Thankfully she's got both KM and MPH on her cluster.

After the second turn and about 15 seconds BOTH lights go out!!!! YAAAAAHHHHOOOOOO!

Ok Chris, it's your turn!

 

[mikeyworks]

Congrats on the success Lito...now are you done with the mods?

Mikey