Engine will not turn by hand

[robu]

I hope you TDI experts can help! Teh caris a 2003 Golf with 175,000
We (mechanic and I who both have very limited diesel experience) replaced the turbo and ran the engine. We noticed a small fuel leak from the injector pump. WE removed the pump and replaced the seals. While "we were in there" we replaced the timing belt and tensioners. After reassembly we tried to turn the engine by hand but it would only turn a short distance, maybe 15 degrees then something prevents further movement.
All timing marks for the belt appear in alignment. We used the tool to lock the camshaft. We used the bar to look the pump.
There i s no sign of physical interference such as a protruding bolt. Since we did not turn the engine when the belt was off and the marks are aligned we assume this is not the issue.
This would seem to leave the pump as the only variable?
What could we have done to mess this up? How should we resolve it?
All suggestions gratefully received!

 

[noob_tl]

With the cam and pump tools in place, is the crank at TDC confirmed with the mark on the flywheel or torque converter?

 

[BobnOH]

When you remove the pump you needs special attention to the timing.
Sound like it's off resulting in valve/piston interference. Fortunate you didn't try to start it.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Both cam lobes of #1 pointed up, when everything's locked at TDC?

 

[Nuje]

I know you said you don't have bolts protruding, but it's tough to see behind the injection pump sprocket, so take a good look at the bolts you have on the injection pump sprocket. First TB job I did, I mistakenly used the a "short" M8 bolt that had a pointed tip, as opposed to the short M8 bolts that are (a) shorter, and (b) flat bottomed. Had exactly the same thing happen - could only roll it maybe 20° before something "hit", even though I'd confirmed multiple times that IP, cam, and TDC were all dead-on.

ShopDAP lists it as 15mm.

 

[robu]

Thanks everyone!
1. With everything locked, our marks on the fly wheel and sprocket are in alignment.
2. Vince, I am not sure what you mean by both cam lobes of #1 pointing up? The front one is more or less horizontal but slightly pointing up to the front of the car. The second one is horizontal.
3. Nuje, we checked the bolts but will check again tomorrow to be sure we have the correct ones.
Further thoughts are much appreciated!

 

[Nuje]

2. Vince, I am not sure what you mean by both cam lobes of #1 pointing up? The front one is more or less horizontal but slightly pointing up to the front of the car. The second one is horizontal.

From myturbodiesel.com

 

[robu]

We have now narrowed it down to the actual pump. With the pump in the vice it still locks.
IF we loosen the head a little, like 1/16", it turns. It takes quite an effort when it is on the cam but those springs look strong. If we tighten it up again when it gets to snug but not tight it is locked.
When we replaced the O ring we only slid the head back far enough to get the O ring in. We did not remove the head.
So any suggestions as to what has happened?
Should we remove the head ? Will we get the springs back in?
Should we remove the nut on the end of the shaft?
Since we do not know how it goes together I dont want to go any further without advice.
Hopefully someone can help. Thanks!

 

[Nuje]

I'm guessing the little shim fell out of place and is stuck down in the works.

Time to take a look through @KrashDH's "how to take apart a IP" thread.

 

[P2B]

Time to take a look through @KrashDH's "how to take apart a IP" thread.

IP Pump Tear Down and Seal Replacement, Bench DIY

Since I have been upgrading a lot of parts lately on the Golf for power, it was apparent that I was going to need to swap my manual's 10mm pump from an 11mm. A new pump was out of the question for me with the laundry list of other things I have been purchasing for the car, so I had to seek out a...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[robu]

Thanks for the reference to the thread. Super comprehensive. With this in hand, a deep breath and dive in!

 

[robu]

Next update. As predicted the small washer had come adrift. Unfortunately as a result of attempting to turn it over itis now in two pieces...
Does anyone know where I can source a replacement?

 

[Nuje]

By "replacement", you mean injection pump....?
I doubt you want to chance that there isn't a little speck of metal floating around inside your injection pump; I'd trash that one and start over.

10mm IP are pretty easy to come by; 11mm slightly less so - and thus costs a bit more.

If you're stuck, let me know - I've got both kicking around here.

 

[robu]

I meant replacing the shim.

 

[BrettLu]

Next update. As predicted the small washer had come adrift. Unfortunately as a result of attempting to turn it over itis now in two pieces...
Does anyone know where I can source a replacement?

I don't know if the shim is specific size to each pump, but the closest to you is probably Santa Rosa Diesel on Standish Ave in Santa Rosa. I used to get most of my Bosch parts through Diamond Diesel in Oakland and Valley Fuel Injection in Woodland.

I'm local to you so if worse come to worst, I've got a 10mm pump from a 5 speed car. It ran when it was pulled, but I've had it sitting in a box for 9-10 years.

 

[robu]

I don't know if the shim is specific size to each pump, but the closest to you is probably Santa Rosa Diesel on Standish Ave in Santa Rosa. I used to get most of my Bosch parts through Diamond Diesel in Oakland and Valley Fuel Injection in Woodland.

I'm local to you so if worse come to worst, I've got a 10mm pump from a 5 speed car. It ran when it was pulled, but I've had it sitting in a box for 9-10 years.

Many thanks. My mechanic went to Santa Rosa Diesel and they had the shim. Wow, I thought that was going to be a major search to find one.
Hopefully we can now get it working..........