As adamss24 says, a good shape AVF engine + BV43 turbo with BV43a CHRA, decat (or good catalyst), good shape AVF, ARL, BPW,BUK injectors, second SMIC from BRD on the right side, and you have a 200HP/420-440Nm car with good spool and reliability. We did a few of these, including the mentioned BPW last week
There is a second option for turbo, a little fabrication needed, it's GTC1549VZ. I helped a user,
@Ricsi168 from Hungary with it's build which included this great turbo and it's a mechanic.
When the engine is ready, you can PM me for software.
Thanks so much for the replies guys!
@arazvan2002 @Ricsi168 @adamss24
I have plan updates for now. There's not gonna be a completely new ARL build for now, but instead, I'll buy an ARL engine from a working car, that's being taken apart, I'm already looking for donors in Seat Leon-Toledo, VW golf/bora and Sharan/Alhambra/Galaxy clubs.
My plan is to testdrive and diagnose an ARL engine, buy it as it is, I currently have a candidate with AL injectors, and then just do a 1:1 engine swap as it is, plugging my 1 year old Garrett gtd2060vz on the ARL, with a very solid 170hp build. I don't want that much power as I have now in the AVF, 200-210hp, I want reliability, and a stronger ARL with AL injectors and a 2060, running on 170hp will give me that imo.
Of course, I would do a timing change, belts, runners, etc., as well as all filters, and oil, and maybe just take the valve cover off and inspect the hydros and camshaft, I don't want to pull the head off, but do all the diags, easy changes that can be done without that to make sure as efficiently as possible that I don't install a faulty engine. I also have an endoscope actually, could be nice to maybe after testdriving the car, also take the valve cover off there, and plug the endoscope in through the valves maybe if possible, get a better picture of the pistons/cylinder status without having to take the head off. I've tried endoscoping mine through the glow plugs, but the angle is very ****, I can only see like 100 degrees of the cylinder wall, so like less than 1/3 of it, and maybe the very edge of the pistons...
I heard and read that ARL is kinda plug n play to AVF engine cars, even though AVF is longitudinal engine, and ARL is sideways. Any important things that will need to be considered for the swap?
Also, if the valve cover is off, and I see a **** camshaft, is the camshaft from AVF plug n play to ARL? Cuz I got a good quality "new" camshaft like 2-3 years ago, I don't think that has any damages in my current engine, but I'll check of course before swapping it into the ARL.
My longitudinal AVF manual 6 transmission is plug n play to the ARL right? I know that the bolts are at the same place, but is there anything else to consider?
So if you guys could help me with some important things that's rare knowledge and good to know, I'd love to hear. Arazvan, could you add me on fb/whatsapp to discuss?
Thank you guys!
EDIT:
I don't want to keep anything else from my AVF. My injectors are trash, probably my cylinder head too, and certainly my cylinder walls. The local mechanic fitted a stock size piston after honing the cylinders, I've been having oil burning issues eversince that "engine fix". Since it was the **** injectors that caused the piston melt at the first place, I can only wonder how the new pistons and the cylinder wall looks like now. Probably the socket of the injectors is also very bad. I have been having starting issues, and wobbling idle, smoking while wobbling, also PD correction values stuck on 2.99/-2.99 when it's wobbling on idle, like stopped at a red light, but goes back to normal, between 1 and -1 after running for a bit. Also when the car is stopped for more than a day, is barely starts up, sometimes only with a cold-start spray, which ****s up my valves on the long run. It also matters if I park nose up or nose-down. Though that it's a fuel line leak, added one-way valves on both the fuel in and fuel out lines from the fuel pump behind the engine, replaced old, cracked looking fuel lines, issue's still there. That points me to the injector sockets being widened from vibrations. Probably replacing the original electric engine mounts with normal ones from s4 b5 also doesn't necessarily help that. I've also been having this issue, that the whole car starts vibrating heavily in 5th and 6th gear, when doing a pull (eg.overtake) from low rpm (like anything until~2500rpm). It goes away once I let off the throttle, comes back after 1-2 seconds of accelerating harder (anything that goes above around 13L/100km actual consumption in 5th, and above around 10L/100km in 6th). Could that be in connection with any of the issues mentioned above or can it be something else? I had a similar issue before, then it was worse, even in 3rd and 4th, then replacing both driveshafts solved the issue. Now I thought it's the same, replaced both again after a year in the other ones, but vibrating issue is still there in 5th and 6th, so it's not the inner cv joints... Also wheel bearings have been replaced, so not that either.