Engine mount bracket threads stripped, uh oh

[Nuje]

Yeah - there's a 22mm 12-point bolt...leave that bad boy alone; DO NOT try to loosen it (see note above).

You should have three 13mm bolts that were supposed to be torqued to 25Nm (18ft.lbs.) - or, if originals, I think it was like 15Nm plus 90° (and those were single-use bolts; replace with the new type that are spec'd at the 25Nm, which can be reused multiple times).

If you want to remove the injection pump sprocket, totally remove those 13mm bolts; it's typically not needed mind you - you only need to loosen them when setting tension on the belt when everything is locked at TDC.

Having said all of that, I just re-read your post....you mention Torx sockets....which makes me question to which "sprocket" you're referring; nothing in the timing belt path uses Torx sockets. Harmonic balancer would be the closest, but those are 6mm allen/hex bolt head.

 

[J_dude]

Sorry, I meant the oil pump sprocket, but I got it off now, just took some more torque. Anyway, now that I have the front seal housing off the crank I see there is a rather noticeable groove where the old seal used to sit, so I guess when I put the new one on I'm gonna have to make sure I don't seat it all the way in, so that it will ride on a fresh area of the crank right? Should I clean it up a bit with some fine emery cloth first?

 

[J_dude]

Also I'm going to order the oil pump chain and tensioner, and I'm seeing a couple different options, theres just the chain for $51.17 made by IWIS, and then the tensioner for $11.50 made by Febi Bilstein, or I can get the chain and tensioner together for $41.50 manufactured by Reville. Now naturally I'm leaning towards the cheaper option but I just thought I'd ask if anyone knows if those brands are good quality parts?

 

[Nuje]

...now that I have the front seal housing off the crank I see there is a rather noticeable groove where the old seal used to sit, so I guess when I put the new one on I'm gonna have to make sure I don't seat it all the way in, so that it will ride on a fresh area of the crank right? Should I clean it up a bit with some fine emery cloth first?

As far as I'm aware, the little groove is simply what happens with the newer style PTFE (teflon) seals. I'd avoid going at it with anything abrasive to the metal - just clean it up and be sure the new seal going in is also PTFE; the older-style seals with the spring (easily visible) will leak for sure. Bentley manual makes this point in numerous places.