EGR Cooler Delete

john08burke

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Location
Omaha
TDI
Jetta 2010
I am doing some exhaust upgrades on my 2010 Jetta, specifically rawtek + new turbo install. To access the turbo, I removed the EGR cooler to make life a little easier. Instead of just using rawtek's block off plate on the EGR cooler, I decided to remove the EGR valve on the intake manifold and just delete the EGR cooler altogether.

I'm a bit stuck what to do with the EGR cooler to turbo inlet. I've highlighted the connecting pipe and grommet from the low pressure EGR to turbo inlet. Since I'll be removing the cooler and connecting pipe, what should I do with the open port? I was looking to block it off with something if possible but not sure with what? Or do people just leave that port open since it's ambient pressure?

 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I've always just left the EGR cooler in place. It won't hurt anything, and you won't have to mess with dealing with changing any coolant hoses or any of that stuff.

You are talking about the low pressure EGR tube, which has no available block off for.... and you cannot remove the whole adapter (the part that bolts to the turbo) because then the inlet tube would have nothing to attach to, and the BRM style is slightly different and I think it is a wee bit smaller, too.
 

john08burke

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Location
Omaha
TDI
Jetta 2010
I found this kit:


I'm assuming the rubber with washers is supposed to block the port? One of the comments:
For anyone having trouble figuring out where everything goes like I was. Two block off plates goes on the egr and exhaust manifold. The plug goes in the hole left by removing the egr cooler. And the brass elbow connects the two egr coolant lines together. MK6 Golf
Anyone done something similar?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Boy, I can see that little butt plug deteriorating from the [normal] oil that it will be subjected to over time, and causing some of the metal parts to get pulled right into the turbocharger, LOL.

But if you feel the need to give it a go...

Like I said, solution in search of a problem if you ask me. I've got deleted cars coming through here with 300k+ miles on them, the EGR cooler has just been harmlessly along for the ride the entire time, along with the low pressure EGR valve, and the entire high pressure EGR pieces (which are again, not doing anything, just "there").
 

john08burke

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Location
Omaha
TDI
Jetta 2010
I fully understand that I could just leave the cooler in place, but that's not the question nor the fun of the project. The question is simply to get ideas for plugging the port.

The freeze plug idea seems like a decent one actually. The material compatibility charts for Neoprene and gold galvanized steel indicate good resistance to oil, even at elevated temps.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Sometimes questions get answers you don't want to hear.

But I admit, I have no experience with that kit, didn't even know it existed.
 

smelly621

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Location
Sonoma County, CA
TDI
2001 Golf, 2003 Tacoma
Little more work, but you could remove that whole shroud (part #33 I think) and drill and tap it for a plug with a large bolt. Or JB weld something in
 

Tuheeden

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2022
Location
North Carolina
TDI
2013 & 2014 Jetta sportwagon
I am doing some exhaust upgrades on my 2010 Jetta, specifically rawtek + new turbo install. To access the turbo, I removed the EGR cooler to make life a little easier. Instead of just using rawtek's block off plate on the EGR cooler, I decided to remove the EGR valve on the intake manifold and just delete the EGR cooler altogether.

I'm a bit stuck what to do with the EGR cooler to turbo inlet. I've highlighted the connecting pipe and grommet from the low pressure EGR to turbo inlet. Since I'll be removing the cooler and connecting pipe, what should I do with the open port? I was looking to block it off with something if possible but not sure with what? Or do people just leave that port open since it's ambient pressure?

I have done several of these and there are kits but what works best is: Rubber Expansion... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P1QC3LY

Do NOT leave it open.
 

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
Old thread I know.. block plate and remove filter done.

I'm in the leave egr cooler in place camp, but would bypass coolent direct to heater by a metal couple or replacing the two hoses with one.

The expansion pluuld work. If the rubber can handle it...

High egr with tune leave in place. You can remove pipe and egr valve, install blocker and "race pipe". I guess it makes it easier to change oil filter and more room for CP3 HPFP.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
You don't need to do any of that. Just a plate on the low pressure spot on the EGR cooler where the pipe was. That's it. That's all you need to do on a delete. Leave the rest of it alone. It won't hurt anything. I've literally got customers in here with 300k+ miles post delete and all that stuff has been harmlessly along for the ride the whole time.
 

Tuheeden

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2022
Location
North Carolina
TDI
2013 & 2014 Jetta sportwagon
Old thread I know.. block plate and remove filter done.

I'm in the leave egr cooler in place camp, but would bypass coolent direct to heater by a metal couple or replacing the two hoses with one.

The expansion pluuld work. If the rubber can handle it...

High egr with tune leave in place. You can remove pipe and egr valve, install blocker and "race pipe". I guess it makes it easier to change oil filter and more room for CP3 HPFP.
I agree with oilhammer that removing everything is not needed however if you undertake it, here are a few tips
- take the 6 bolts out of the passenger axle, you will need the space
- the oil return and support from the turbo must be removed
- blocking off the high pressure EGR directly on the exhaust manifold can be tricky. The original bolts will be rusted and if the break while trying to remove them or putting the new ones in, you will be replacing the exhaust manifold!!
- the coolant hose will need a 90 degree elbow unless you willing to trim the hoses to use a straight thru (it looks nicer trimmed )
- you must either replace the EGR on the intake with a straight thru or you have to fabricate something to seal the egr mechanism or you will leak boost pressure
- And when you have done all this, expect the engine to be noticeably slower to warm up to operating temperature, especially in cold weather

It's quite an undertaking so really just block off the two plates and be happy....lol
 

ontherocks

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2024
Location
Houston, TX
TDI
2014 VW JSW DSG
just block off the two plates and be happy
Firstly, thanks - this thread is exactly what I need. OK, so leave the cooler alone - but you mention two plates... where Oilhammer says "Just a plate on the low pressure spot on the EGR cooler where the pipe was". Is the second blocking plate for the high pressure line to the EGR valve?

I am fairly confident I can tackle the DPF piping removal and delete kit replacement from turbo to muffler. However, I'm not 100% on the EGR system - was thinking of putting in a race pipe to remove the EGR valve and leave the anti-shudder valve in place.

- do I need to remove the EGR valve, or does the tune electronically delete it? If I do remove it, I would also prefer to remove the connecting high pressure line - can I do that without removing the cooler?

Cheers.
 

Rx7145

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2017
Location
Ohio
TDI
2006 Jetta BRM
One plate goes on the exhaust manifold the other on the EGR valve. You can buy a “race pipe “ that replaces the EGR valve.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I think it helps to understand that the engine has two completely independent EGR systems. Both of them are controlled by an electric motor working the EGR valves themselves, and these default to "closed", so once a tune is applied, these will never open again, and neither one is likely to become an issue by itself. They're just a component that is simply along for the ride.

The regular, or "high pressure" as we now call it, EGR system is simple: it is a pipe attached to the exhaust manifold portion of the turbocharger, at right angles near the #4 cyl exhaust port, that runs around the head above the bellhouse area, and goes to its valve that is sandwiched between the intake throttle flap and the intake manifold itself. You needn't physically do anything to these pieces.

The "low pressure" EGR system takes its exhaust post-DPF, through the little filter pipe off a little bung on the downpipe, and first goes into the EGR cooler and valve assembly that is bolted to the back of the block, and from there, has a little stack that goes up into the turbo inlet adapter flange bolted to the turbo itself. All that gets done there is the filter pipe gets removed (the delete pipe will have no bung to attach it) and the little two-bolt flange where it bolted to the cooler/valve assembly gets the little block off plate affixed. That's pretty much it.

You don't need anything else. No "race pipe" or nonsense like that. If it really bothers you that much that the high pressure pipe is present, you can certain dig it out (it's not quick, stuff in the way, and the studs on the turbo can break off and then you're really screwed). To do that, you'd need another block off plate at the exhaust manifold. You would also want one at the EGR just because over time the valve itself even though it is closed it can weep a bit of oil that is being carried through the breather system (which is a normal thing, that's how it works). By leaving that pipe in place, however, any oil weeping past the valve will just harmlessly push into that pipe, and drain back down into the exhaust every time you shut the engine off.

When you delete, you'll also not need the EGR pressure sensor (the one on the valve cover the ECU uses to monitor the low pressure EGR flow) or the DPF pressure sensor (over my the aux. fuel pump, the one the ECU uses to monitor DPF load). You also won't use the lower temp sensor that plugs in down under the car, along with the exhaust throttle and lambda sensor, nor either of the two EGT sensors that go into the top of the OC/DPF assembly.... you WILL need to put the upper lambda sensor back in (some early pipes also provided a spot for the upper ... orange connector... EGT sensor, so if the pipe has that, that's what goes in there).

People really overthink this stuff.
 
Last edited:

Rx7145

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2017
Location
Ohio
TDI
2006 Jetta BRM
One plate goes on the exhaust manifold the other on the EGR valve. You can buy a “race pipe “ that replaces the EGR valve.
what I said was applicable to a BRM engine looks like you have a CJAA so my post here is not very helpful.
 

ontherocks

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2024
Location
Houston, TX
TDI
2014 VW JSW DSG
I think it helps to understand that the engine has two completely independent EGR systems. Both of them are controlled by an electric motor working the EGR valves themselves, and these default to "closed", so once a tune is applied, these will never open again, and neither one is likely to become an issue by itself. They're just a component that is simply along for the ride.

The regular, or "high pressure" as we now call it, EGR system is simple: it is a pipe attached to the exhaust manifold portion of the turbocharger, at right angles near the #4 cyl exhaust port, that runs around the head above the bellhouse area, and goes to its valve that is sandwiched between the intake throttle flap and the intake manifold itself. You needn't physically do anything to these pieces.

The "low pressure" EGR system takes its exhaust post-DPF, through the little filter pipe off a little bung on the downpipe, and first goes into the EGR cooler and valve assembly that is bolted to the back of the block, and from there, has a little stack that goes up into the turbo inlet adapter flange bolted to the turbo itself. All that gets done there is the filter pipe gets removed (the delete pipe will have no bung to attach it) and the little two-bolt flange where it bolted to the cooler/valve assembly gets the little block off plate affixed. That's pretty much it.

You don't need anything else. No "race pipe" or nonsense like that. If it really bothers you that much that the high pressure pipe is present, you can certain dig it out (it's not quick, stuff in the way, and the studs on the turbo can break off and then you're really screwed). To do that, you'd need another block off plate at the exhaust manifold. You would also want one at the EGR just because over time the valve itself even though it is closed it can weep a bit of oil that is being carried through the breather system (which is a normal thing, that's how it works). By leaving that pipe in place, however, any oil weeping past the valve will just harmlessly push into that pipe, and drain back down into the exhaust every time you shut the engine off.

When you delete, you'll also not need the EGR pressure sensor (the one on the valve cover the ECU uses to monitor the low pressure EGR flow) or the DPF pressure sensor (over my the aux. fuel pump, the one the ECU uses to monitor DPF load). You also won't use the lower temp sensor that plugs in down under the car, along with the exhaust throttle and lambda sensor, nor either of the two EGT sensors that go into the top of the OC/DPF assembly.... you WILL need to put the upper lambda sensor back in (some early pipes also provided a spot for the upper ... orange connector... EGT sensor, so if the pipe has that, that's what goes in there).

People really overthink this stuff.
Looks like you've saved me a good deal of time and money - many thanks!!!
 

john08burke

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Location
Omaha
TDI
Jetta 2010
A year and a half later, I had the car pulled apart for a flywheel replacement so decided to inspect the freeze plug that was used to plug the turbo inlet after removing all EGR parts. The plug looked like new and didn’t show any signs of wear. Given that it sits on the intake side of the turbo, it’s probably not that surprising as it’s not being exposed directly to high temp exhaust gases.

The blocking plate only solution is by far the quickest and easiest to implement as others have mentioned.

If you have to or just want to remove the EGR, however, using a quality freeze plug seems like a good solution.
 

fraziej104

New member
Joined
Apr 19, 2024
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2014 Passat
A year and a half later, I had the car pulled apart for a flywheel replacement so decided to inspect the freeze plug that was used to plug the turbo inlet after removing all EGR parts. The plug looked like new and didn’t show any signs of wear. Given that it sits on the intake side of the turbo, it’s probably not that surprising as it’s not being exposed directly to high temp exhaust gases.

The blocking plate only solution is by far the quickest and easiest to implement as others have mentioned.

If you have to or just want to remove the EGR, however, using a quality freeze plug seems like a good solution.
Did you use the Dorman rubber expansion plug 1 1/4?? Also did you use silicone? And is ll still running well?
 
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