EGR Cooler bypass kit on a 2006 TDI BRM?

[Ramp Rat]

Has anyone done an EGR Cooler bypass kit on a TDI BRM? What happens to the computer and the vehicle drivability?

 

[oilhammer]

Thousands of people have done this. You will need a tune of some sort. The cooling hose plumbing is a bit awkward, and I do not think anyone has really come up with a nice, non-klugey way to run the hose from the flange on the head directly to the heater core, and real estate is quite tight back there on the BRM. I wish there was a nice, clean package that you could buy for them.

There is also an updated EGR cooler than seems to hold up much better.

 

[Ramp Rat]

Thousands of people have done this. You will need a tune of some sort. The cooling hose plumbing is a bit awkward, and I do not think anyone has really come up with a nice, non-klugey way to run the hose from the flange on the head directly to the heater core, and real estate is quite tight back there on the BRM. I wish there was a nice, clean package that you could buy for them.

There is also an updated EGR cooler than seems to hold up much better.

I would be interested in more information about an updated EGR Cooler. I can only find this:

2005-2006 Volkswagen Jetta Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (Egr) Cooler 03G-131-512-AD | vwpartscente

2005-2006 Volkswagen Jetta part # 03G-131-512-AD - Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (Egr) Cooler

www.vwpartscenter.net

Which is the same unit that I have.
I don't need the EGR where I live because we have no SMOG checks here but, I also don't want any issues with the ECM.
Thanks, Steve

 

[jetta 97]

I would be interested in more information about an updated EGR Cooler. I can only find this:

2005-2006 Volkswagen Jetta Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (Egr) Cooler 03G-131-512-AD | vwpartscente

2005-2006 Volkswagen Jetta part # 03G-131-512-AD - Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (Egr) Cooler

www.vwpartscenter.net

Which is the same unit that I have.
I don't need the EGR where I live because we have no SMOG checks here but, I also don't want any issues with the ECM.
Thanks, Steve

Cooler is same and in about 80k-100k you will have same problem with Hissing on acceleration.
The kit you will not find here in USA , only one sell good is DarkSide in UK ( You can send me PM for more info)
And you will need to have Tune ECU to work properly and not get CEL.

 

[oilhammer]

They (Valeo, the folks that made the EGR cooler) updated the changeover flap shaft a few years ago. If you compare the two, they look slightly different. So far they seem to hold up better. Why it took so long to make a better one I have no idea.

I had a guy who was rebuilding them prior to that.

The problem is the bushing in the changeover flap shaft wears out, and they start leaking out the end of the shaft. The guy that I had rebuilding them actually made a better (metal) bushing with a packing and an end cap for the shaft, rebushed each end which involved cutting off the lever attached to the vacuum servo and welding it back on. He also put an aircraft style safety wire on the new caps to keep them secure.

But once Valeo made the improvements, as well as a couple of half-priced aftermarket versions, it became pointless to go through the trouble to rebuild the old ones.

 

[Ramp Rat]

They (Valeo, the folks that made the EGR cooler) updated the changeover flap shaft a few years ago. If you compare the two, they look slightly different. So far they seem to hold up better. Why it took so long to make a better one I have no idea.

I had a guy who was rebuilding them prior to that.

The problem is the bushing in the changeover flap shaft wears out, and they start leaking out the end of the shaft. The guy that I had rebuilding them actually made a better (metal) bushing with a packing and an end cap for the shaft, rebushed each end which involved cutting off the lever attached to the vacuum servo and welding it back on. He also put an aircraft style safety wire on the new caps to keep them secure.

But once Valeo made the improvements, as well as a couple of half-priced aftermarket versions, it became pointless to go through the trouble to rebuild the old ones.

OK, forget the kit. The idea never really gave me that warm fuzzy feeling anyway. But, I see that ID Parts and VW Parts Center both carry the EGR Cooler. Are they both Valeo or something else. If so, where can I find the Valeo?

I live about 150 miles from the nearest VW dealer so everything has to be an online order. I’m working up a list of needed parts, gaskets and hardware. I’m thinking of removing the intake manifold so I can clean it and I assume the best way to do that is to also remove the exhaust/turbo manifold. I did replace the DMF for the DSG so I guess I can deal with this project.

 

[oilhammer]

Valeo is who makes it FOR Volkswagen, they are the OEM. So if it comes in a Valeo box or a VAG box, makes no difference, it'll be the same part. The VAG box will almost certainly cost more.

I think Vemo is one of the aftermarket companies that makes a replacement. It's quality may not be great, I don't know. But they are usually half the price, so...

You do not need to take the intake manifold or turbocharger off to get to one. You *can* do it without dropping the DPF, but the one attachment screw can be a pain.

I drop the whole subframe out, steering gear and all. Just too easy for me to do that way, and then everything is out in the open. I'd also replace the heater hose set while you are in there (there is an early and a late version).

 

[CleverUserName]

@Frank06, a vendor on here offers his own modified BRM EGR cooler with some reliability enhancements. He sends you the new cooler and you return your original as a core. I think it’s less than $200

 

[Rx7145]

I used a 1”to.75” hose adapter from Napa to run the hose from the heater core to the head.

 

[jetta 97]

They (Valeo, the folks that made the EGR cooler) updated the changeover flap shaft a few years ago. If you compare the two, they look slightly different. So far they seem to hold up better. Why it took so long to make a better one I have no idea.

I had a guy who was rebuilding them prior to that.

The problem is the bushing in the changeover flap shaft wears out, and they start leaking out the end of the shaft. The guy that I had rebuilding them actually made a better (metal) bushing with a packing and an end cap for the shaft, rebushed each end which involved cutting off the lever attached to the vacuum servo and welding it back on. He also put an aircraft style safety wire on the new caps to keep them secure.

But once Valeo made the improvements, as well as a couple of half-priced aftermarket versions, it became pointless to go through the trouble to rebuild the old ones.

Brian have you seen any car went over 120K that has no problem with updated version?

 

[oilhammer]

I think I probably have, but I cannot say for sure. I don't think I have done any recently and by now all the remaining BRM "regulars" through here are 250k+ miles by now it seems, although I do have one here today with only 190k.

I know for sure some of the rebuilt ones have gone that much and more. They seem to leak a TINY bit, but it is a fixed amount, never gets worse, similar to the BW turbos' VNT shafts that almost always seem to have that tiny bit of soot around them after 100k miles or so.

 

[Ramp Rat]

You do not need to take the intake manifold or turbocharger off to get to one. You *can* do it without dropping the DPF, but the one attachment screw can be a pain.

I drop the whole subframe out, steering gear and all. Just too easy for me to do that way, and then everything is out in the open. I'd also replace the heater hose set while you are in there (there is an early and a late version).

I’ve been pulling things off the engine (again) for inspection and to see what else I’m getting into. “Things” meaning, Tube from intercooler to intake, Flapper valve, EGR valve off of the intake and the intake pre-heat shield off of the exhaust manifold, to name a few.

I’m thinking of removing the intake manifold to clean it. It has an oily black soot build up that doesn’t set well with me but, maybe this is a normal thing???? Can the intake manifold be removed without removing the exhaust/turbo manifold?

It looks like if I remove the exhaust downpipe from the turbo and maybe the turbo oil drain tube, I might be able to get the EGR Cooler out. Just wondering.

If I have to drop the subframe I still have the engine/tranny support frame I made up for when we replaced the DMF.
I want to thank you and Jetta 97 for your input.

Steve

 

[oilhammer]

The intake is fine, normal. You do not need to mess with that at all to do the EGR cooler. I do everything from below, really.

You do not need to support anything if you remove the subframe. The engine and transmission mount directly to the unibody rails on each side. The lower mount is just a roll stopper, it doesn't support anything.

 

[dtrvler]

An alternative is to pull the pass wheel and axle to get at the back of the motor. I swap turbos that way too. Either way you gotta get some stuff outta the way.

 

[Ramp Rat]

If I can get this picture to post . . . .
The best I can do is post a link to the picture in a google drive:

IMG_8356.JPG

drive.google.com

Except for the sealing are needing cleaning, is this much soot build up an issue?

 

[oilhammer]

That looks 100% normal to me, really. I'd not be too worried over that. The PDs never really suffered the issues the VEs did, and with ULSD even the VEs don't suffer like they used to.

 

[Ramp Rat]

An alternative is to pull the pass wheel and axle to get at the back of the motor. I swap turbos that way too. Either way you gotta get some stuff outta the way.

You know, I was wondering about doing that but, Murphy (you know, Murphy's Law) lives in my hip pocket but, I like KISS. Thanks.

 

[Ramp Rat]

That looks 100% normal to me, really. I'd not be too worried over that. The PDs never really suffered the issues the VEs did, and with ULSD even the VEs don't suffer like they used to.

Great, thank you. You just made my life a little easier. But, I couldn't help myself, I did clean the flapper and EGR valve.

 

[dtrvler]

If I can get this picture to post . . . .
The best I can do is post a link to the picture in a google drive:

IMG_8356.JPG

drive.google.com

Except for the sealing are needing cleaning, is this much soot build up an issue?

Its not bad at all but while i was in there i'd make it perfect. Im anal that way. I use a 5 gallon bucket with zep industrial purple in it and a pressure washer. Its works very well.

 

[Ramp Rat]

Its not bad at all but while i was in there i'd make it perfect. Im anal that way. I use a 5 gallon bucket with zep industrial purple in it and a pressure washer. Its works very well.

While the manifold is still on the engine? LOL.
After I get everything out of the way for the EGR Cooler replacement and IF I can get to the intake manifold, I'll take it off and clean it.
Thanks.