Early Timing Belt Replacement

[Lance Allison]

A few weeks ago, I posted a problem with throwing a CEL and having uneven turbo boost at full throttle. I met with Drivbiwire and he connected his VAG-COM and it had the same 575 code some others have experienced. As it turned out, an N75 wastegate relay replacement took care of my problem.

When he hooked it up to the VAG-COM, he ran through the different screens and it showed my timing retarded, almost at the very bottom of the acceptable range. Since it was already late in the day, we agreed to meet a different day to have the timing advanced.

I went over Drivbiwire's house today and he was going to advance the timing and do the PCV/CCV mod. When we took the timing cover off and did a visual on the belt, it had several very small bubbles all over the non-ribbed surface of the belt. Almost as if it was starting to delaminiate. It also had considerable stretch. It was to the point the tensioner was at its maximum position, as was the injector pump. The pump would not move enough to allow any more timing advance.

Keep in mind, the belt only had about 38,000 miles on it. In order to adjust the timing properly, we went ahead and replaced the belt.

I left there this afternoon in amazement. Although Pete did all the work, it was incredibly easy to change the belt. We started at around 11:45. The belt was changed, timing set (and VAG-COM scanned), did a road test, and performed the CCV mod in under TWO HOURS !!!! It really pays to have the proper tools. I was so impressed, I'm in the process of ordering the cam locking tool, the injector pump lockpin, and the few wrenches that really made the job easy.

By having the tools right there, we didn't have to take chances with the "mark and pray" method. Again, I was very impressed with the way the entire job went.

A big thanks to you, Pete!!

The lesson learned -- CHECK YOUR TB REGULARLY
------------------
Lance Allison
LDA4793@UDNET.NET
98 Jetta TDI
150,000+ miles
Upsolute Chip & Tuning Box
Epsilonian Confederate
K&N / Descreened / Desnorkeled

[This message has been edited by Lance Allison (edited November 29, 2000).]

 

[Drivbiwire]

Thanks, I am glad I could help.

I would classify the belt as blistering. The blister's were small and covered the entire non-ribbed part of the belt. I compared the belt to a 60,000 mile timing belt and the 60,000 mile belt had some blistering but nowhere near what Lance's had at 38,000.

DB

 

[valois]

Pete, are you on a mission to change every TDI Timing belt in North America?

I wanted to thank you for the pictures and commentary you have done, it will certainly make the ones we do this weekend much easier.

 

[Drivbiwire]

It just Pi$$es me off to no end that dealers would try to charge as much as they do simply becuase they do not know how to do the job!

If I had my way I would show everyone how to do this simple procedure. Yes it helps to have some experience but as long as you have some basic tools the procedure is no more complicated than changing a fan belt ( well maybe a bit more).

When I do my car when it get's back from the body shop I will take a full picture documentary to post here on Fred's. This way if anyone want to see how to do a belt they will have the step by step instructions.


DB

 

[Stealth TDI]

Hi,

Perhaps you can also post pictures of the special tools required as well as their prices, part numbers, and where to get them?

I'll be having another TB changed soon. But I'd like to start doing my own, if it's as easy as you say. Once I have a second vehicle to fall back on in case I need more time, I can't imagine why I couldn't do it myself.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[Veep]

Hi!
I would like to know as well where to get special tools, especially for VAG-COM. My tool inventory already includes the pin and locking plate that I use on the IDI VW diesels.(obtained through Snap-On) Does anyone know if they'll work on TDI's?
Thanks.

BTW, I think someone in our forum is making cable sets to use with a laptop for VAG-COM. Yes, No, Maybe?

------------------
2000 Golf GLS TDi 5spd Silver on Black

 

[DZLKopf]

Well, I've bought almost all the special tools for doing a TB change on an Automatic A4.

The only tool I still need is the engine lift to hold the engine when the motor mount is removed. But, since the thing is $700 USD, I think that I'd like to build one.

If someone has bought the engine lift, could you draft up a drawing with dimensions etc?

I'll go buy some Square Tube steel stock and weld one up. If it's not too difficult, I might make up some to sell to forum members if there is some interest. I can guarantee that it'll cost much less than the one from VW.

DZLKopf
-------------
"Your Mileage May Vary!" Well Duh! Have you seen my driving lately?

 

[GeWilli]

I used a 2X6 and a floor jack on the cast iron part of the engine from below to hold the engine in place. A cherry picker type engine hoist should work well too. Those are availble for rent pretty much everywhere.

That said if you comeup with a good design let us know.

I almost thing a good wood setup could work very well.

 

[DZLKopf]

Well, actually I was considering making one out of wood.

I was planning on making one that had "A" frame ends that would rest on the inside lip of each fender in the same manner as the VW engine lift, with a 2x4 across the top.

I would then use a "Come Along" as the hoist portion. Although, I may have to make the "A" frame fairly high to use this.

I am reluctant to lift from the bottom, or to use an engine hoist because the car suspension would lift the car as the engine weight was removed from the vehicle. A lift that is supported on the frame would hold the engine at a fixed height, and would not change as one leaned on the fenders etc.

DZLKopf
------------
Alergic to Crushed Fingers. Extreme reaction when exposed to finger crush stimulus.

 

[Drivbiwire]

When doing the A4, put the car on a jack stand and use a 2x4 and a floor jack. Position the 2x4 on the rear passenger side corner of the oil pan. Make sure it is on the very back edge, this will ensure the weight is centralized on the strongest portion of the pan.

I have found that the floor jack method is pretty easy to work with. It allows for faster positioning of the engine when removing and installing the pendulem mount on the A4 series cars. With a come-along I would be concerned about jerking the engine around when releasing the tension. The floor jack is very gentle and accurate. Remember this is part of the operation when you need to treat it like your girlfriend and not the wife.

For the A3 owner's for get about, it WE DON'T NEED NO STINKING ENGINE SUPPORT!!!!!!! thus the reason the A3 can be done so fast.

If you have the tools for the IDI diesels you are pretty well set. All you need is the locking bar and injection pump pin. What I suggest looking into getting a crankshaft locking tool, this holds the flywheel at TDC when reinstalling the timing belt. Again if the engine is cold it's not a problem but if the engine is warm then the flywheel moves rather easily. What I have been doing is lodging the tip of a screwdriver between the flywheel and the bellhousing. You don't need to put much pressure on it since the tip of the screwdriver had the mechanical advantage over the forces you exert on the crank with the belt.

 

[Torque!]

I'm with veep. Where can a VAG-COM be obtained.

I did find this site that seems to offer a windows emulator that you could use with a serial connection.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html

------------------
2001 Silver Jetta TDI GLS Auto
Cold Weather, Leather, Sunroof
(RIP 76' 330K Toyota Corona)

 

[GeWilli]

DBW - exactly what we found to work the best.

My car was on jack stands (well the front half was) and a nice highquality floor jack made it super easy to position the engine to get it back together. . .


torque!,
the VAG-COM tool is like $22,000 and requires a yearly or monthly subscription (i don't remember which) of $200 per installment to get the updates.

Get the Ross tech one. It is the best deal out there. Get it get it get it.

 

[alandspeed]

If you still want to try a hoist, check out harborfreight.com. Cheap tools mostly made in China but for the price and the amount of use for a guy at home, can't be beat. And free shipping! But I have to warn you, once you order from them you will get enough catalogs in the mail to heat your house.

 

[Drivbiwire]

Contact Uwe Ross. His cable is a God send and works GREAT!

Try and get a copy of the VW-Tool software after you get the cable or you can use the software that Uwe is in the process of developing.

Email me when you get a cable I can send you a program that you may want

!

DB

 

[valois]

Uwe's software is fully functional now. His is the adapter at $199.99. It's a good deal.
Did a belt change today with Omar and Scott, on Scott's. We'll do mine tomorrow, I agree with Drivbiwire, the crank locking pin would make it easier. Scott had 69,000 miles on it, the Serpentine was cracked, the Timing belt actually looked pretty good. There was alot of slack in it. The new belt was tight, we checked his pump timing before and after, it was on the extreme low end of the chart before we started, it was on the high edge after, we were unable to adjust it lower! 70 @110!I believe it may need to be reset after the belt has worked itself in a little. Car started and runs fine.