DPF replacement tutorial?

[Shoveltrev]

the problem is when theres soot in the tail pipe its also getting in the low pressure egr. so thats an abrasive getting all the way thru your intake track, including your turbo intercooler and all piping.

 

[oilhammer]

ANY soot in the tailpipe of a CJAA is "excessive".

It should be "white glove" clean:

And not like this one:

I know the difference may seem subtle, but that's all it takes.

Has nothing to do with fuel quality.

 

[Razor B]

Well, that’s different. Thanks. I thought mine was doing well compared to the 2011 Golf I had at the same mileage.

My question about the fuel quality was about the increased incidence that you’ve seen them coming in for DPF work or if you thought that they are just coming into that mileage range.

Thanks

 

[brkdrvr]

Hello, This is an interesting discussion as I am preparing to replace the DPF on my daughter 2011 JSW. There is lots of info and Videos on deleting but not much on replacement. This is some of the best DPF replacement info I have come across. I have some unique questions about the DPFs and interchangeability between models. We have 4 TDI Jetta Sport Wagons a 2011, 2013 & two 2014's. I would like to source a "core" DPF from eBay, Facebook MKT PL, or junkyard and have it cleaned/ rejuvenated by a local guy with a DPF cleaning machine, he says as long as matrix is not damaged which he claims is rare cleaning is @ $200.00 and is completed in a day. I am finding numerous sites indicating the same DPF for all four vehicles leading me to believe that if I find a core unit and have the one I pull serviced it can be used in all four vehicles as it is a matter of mileage requiring replacement (@ every 125,000 to 150,000 miles) Both the 2014's have gotten new DPF's under warranty, the 2011 is out and made it over 175,000. My concern is that I have been told by one VW parts department that I would have to supply all the VIN's to be sure all the DPF's are the same? I am very interested in the idea of keeping my old DPF and having cleaned to use in the next vehicle since we have multiple. Has anyone used a cleaning service and/or know about interchangeability among the 2011 thought 2014 Jetta Sportwagons? Thanks for any insights, Mike

 

[oilhammer]

DPFs for the CJAA are all the same.

They rarely ever "clog up". They crack. A lot. All the time. Like, that is the 99% failure mode. You can clean them, they'll still be broken, and still be no good.

The reason Volkswagen wants a VIN, is because they are tracking the failure rate (not sure why). But it HAS to be substantial.

But get the "cleaning" nonsense out of the equation, it won't help. That's not the problem.

Also, these DPFs have a catalyst built into them, they are not a standalone DPF like many other diesels have.

 

[brkdrvr]

Sorry to hear that I was hoping that buying a used DPF (assuming I could find one with a good matrix) and having it cleaned before installing would buy me another 100 -150 K miles but the fact that there is a "catalyst" that may/will also fail and is not serviced by the cleaning is no good. Now I am wondering what the life of the catalyst is compared to the intervals of a good matrix filling with ash. I was hoping that If the matrix was not cracked/damaged it could be cleaned out and replace the expired unit currently in the car. Sounds like even if the unit in my daughters '11 JSW is full @180,000 miles tries to regen then cel returns in a few hundred miles. I will have to ask the people reselling the remanufactured units if they are cutting open and replacing the catalyst because if not it would seem not as good as a new unit and also makes me question why they want such astronomical core charges for the low unit (most are getting $600-$700) minimum for return. I will also will ask my local cleaning guy if he has someone who can open, replace the catalyst and close up the unit and if so what the cost of that is, its had to believe it would beless than another $400 - $500 minimum (esp. since he is in NJ). I thought I possibly had my solution I could live with changing out the DPF every 100 to 150 K and having the spare cleaned for $200 TO $400 and storing until the next one went bad. Oh well sounds like I back to 1,200 plus $700 core chg and my weekend labor. Doesn't sound nearly as good as 300 for used DPF, $200-$300 cleaning plus another cleaning fee for the pulled unit if still good and I'm ready for the next,.

 

[oilhammer]

Not sure why you are hung up about a core charge. That is $0 once you turn it in. They don't remanufacture these (they just want to get the core back... they have some value).

These things are quite complex. They are not just a "can" with an in and an out. They are a collection of probably 30+ individual metal parts all jigged up and welded together. Several bung holes for sensors and pressure tubes, several brackets, a threaded rod, a flex pipe, etc.

And $1200 is not that bad, they were over $1600... given the fact that pretty much EVERYTHING in the last couple years has gone UP, especially car parts, it is amazing they REDUCED the cost of these... and I think they did so because they are failing so darn much.

 

[brkdrvr]

Just did mine this past weekend. Followed instructions on Rawteks site and other pearls of wisdom found on TDIClub. I was on 4 jack stands and used hand tools. Only had to disconnect the passenger drive shaft from the DSG. It came out with very little prying of the heat shielding. Got all my parts from ID Parts. Saved $900-$1200 in labor. My 2nd DPF failed within about 50k miles (warranty). This is the 3rd DPF for this car.

Hello, I am in the same boat with our 2011 JSW it made it 185,000 miles on the original DPF and is out of warranty, I see you changed the DPF on jack stands. I'm about to do our 2011 Sportwagen and had a couple of questions. The first is to confirm you did so only pulling the passenger axle. I just changed out the DSG flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and slave cylinder/throwout bearing last weekend on jack stands and was looking at the DPF wondering how to do it. I had to replace and re-torque the Axel/hub bolt, what a treat (I have heard so many conflicting stories about reusing bolt, I just stick to new ones.) It sounds like you let axel hang just removing from trans. I also have questions about the jack stands and jacking, I have floor jack and a slotted puck adapter for the jacking points but am uncomfortable jacking the car up to the jack sands especially as I would like to go kind of high ( I did not lift the car high enough last W/E and could not get transmission out of under car on low trans jack because I was @ 4-5" to low). I need to figure a good procedure as I jack cars up level to perform DSG fluid/ filter change and do suspension ( installing IDParts lift kit next month) and brake work. I really wondering what people are using for jack stand points if they are using designated jacking points at body seams. I'm also wondering what you used part wise other than a new DPF? I am a little overwhelmed by Qillhammer's description of dropping the subframe and wondered about lifting the engine a bit after removing some of the engine passenger side mount bolts to get a little more space between the back of engine and firewall. I'm going to order the parts mentioned by Oilhammer plus any other bits I might need as nearest dealer is an hour away they keep almost no parts in stock and are closed Sat & Sun anyway. Sorry for being longwinded and all the questions any suggestions are appreciated

Thanks, Mike

 

[Sponjhead]

I do them all the time, I drop the subframe assembly, steering and all, completely out of the car. Super easy, then you have much more room. Still can be tricky to get that band clamp back lined up going back together.

Do you do still do these? Do you do them for other people? I have a 2013 jetta wagon tdi that I just got the bad news from the dealership. I normally do my own repairs, but I just don't have the time or space right now. I'm in MO'Fallon. If you are from around here you know where that is. Shoot me a message if you are interested, because I'd rather support a good guy than a dealership. Thanks!

 

[oilhammer]

Yes, I do these all the time.

 

[Tuheeden]

Hello, I am in the same boat with our 2011 JSW it made it 185,000 miles on the original DPF and is out of warranty, I see you changed the DPF on jack stands. I'm about to do our 2011 Sportwagen and had a couple of questions. The first is to confirm you did so only pulling the passenger axle. I just changed out the DSG flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and slave cylinder/throwout bearing last weekend on jack stands and was looking at the DPF wondering how to do it. I had to replace and re-torque the Axel/hub bolt, what a treat (I have heard so many conflicting stories about reusing bolt, I just stick to new ones.) It sounds like you let axel hang just removing from trans. I also have questions about the jack stands and jacking, I have floor jack and a slotted puck adapter for the jacking points but am uncomfortable jacking the car up to the jack sands especially as I would like to go kind of high ( I did not lift the car high enough last W/E and could not get transmission out of under car on low trans jack because I was @ 4-5" to low). I need to figure a good procedure as I jack cars up level to perform DSG fluid/ filter change and do suspension ( installing IDParts lift kit next month) and brake work. I really wondering what people are using for jack stand points if they are using designated jacking points at body seams. I'm also wondering what you used part wise other than a new DPF? I am a little overwhelmed by Qillhammer's description of dropping the subframe and wondered about lifting the engine a bit after removing some of the engine passenger side mount bolts to get a little more space between the back of engine and firewall. I'm going to order the parts mentioned by Oilhammer plus any other bits I might need as nearest dealer is an hour away they keep almost no parts in stock and are closed Sat & Sun anyway. Sorry for being longwinded and all the questions any suggestions are appreciated

Thanks, Mike

Drop the subframe! It's very easy and the worst case is you need an alignment. Getting the DPF out is possible without removing the subframe but it's very tight and it's easy to smash the HVAC tubes. I have done them on jack stands both ways (with subframe and without) and I can tell you it's SOO much better with it out of the way.
If you were doing just a delete you might consider leaving the subframe in but a DPF replacement is just not worth the wrestling.

 

[burgeme71]

@oilhammer - in your experience, have you seen a customer return for DPF issues after you've replaced the DPF? Or is this really a wear item that should be expected to be replaced every ~120-150K miles?

I also have a question regarding the two differential pressure sensors. Am I correct in assuming that (in VCDS) the DPF sensor is named 'Particle Filter Offset' and the EGR filter is named 'Particle Filter'? One of my sensors was reading '0 mbar' continuously - idling, driving etc. I thought maybe the sensor was bad and tested it by swapping positions of both of the sensors. The '0 mbar' stayed with the same sensor position - meaning it didn't follow the sensor itself - ie - the sensors seemed to be working correctly. (All 4 hoses did not show signs of wear and were not blocked.)

Assuming this is the case - that the '0 mbar' reading points to my DPF - is this another indication that the DPF is shot?

Just an update guys :
Almost 15 months later - I've answered my own question - YES, DPF's can crack at any time. I'm only 25K into the new DPF and I'm getting the dreaded P2002 and P0401 codes again. The Low Pressure EGR filter was nearly completely clogged up - I did clean that - with oven cleaner which did let it breath a little easier BUT - did not solve my issues. I've concluded that the DPF is at fault again - cracked, broken, whatever it is - it's going to be a weekend under the Sportwagen again.

The online place where I did get my DPF says that VW (?) will inspect the DPF after I send it in and will either replace (free of charge) with another DPF. I will purchase one, then do the swap over the weekend and then (cross my fingers) wait until VW makes a decision that the DPF is cracked and refund me my $$.

I have one request though - does anyone have the Rawtek instructions on how to replace the DPF. I can not find my instructions from last time, nor can I find it on their site right now. Please post if you have them.

I'm at 161K right now - just completed all the 160K service - automatic transmission fluid/filter, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter etc. - I was hoping I'd get to 250K before anything major went wrong again - no such luck though. Hopefully this will only cost me my weekend if VW pays for their part.

 

[okbabydoc]

Really appreciate the instructions outlined in this thread. 2013 Sportwagen TDI 92,000 miles.
DPF light came on yesterday. Codes P2002, P1A58, Sooty tailpipes. Willing to DIY within reason (previous thermostat replacement perhaps hardest repair I've performed-no front end removal). Will attach VCDS scan. Should I bother with regeneration on highway? Thanks, John

Sunday,01,October,2023,12:15:37:23487
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 11 x64
VCDS Version: 23.3.1.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4631.4
Data version: 20230421 DS346.2
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: 3VWPL7AJ3DM691725 License Plate:
Mileage: 148080km-92012mi Repair Order:
Chassis Type: AJ-VW36 (7N0)

Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 2E 42 44 46 52 56 62 72 77
VIN: 3VWPL7AJ3DM691725 Mileage: 148080km-92012miles
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010

02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000

03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000

04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000

08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000

09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000

15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000

16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000

17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000

19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000

1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000

25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000

2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000

42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000

44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000

46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000

52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000

56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010

62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000

72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine (CJA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 030 E HW: 03L 907 309 AA
Component: R4 2.0l TDI G000AG 9983
Revision: 12H15--- Serial number:
Coding: 0050078
Shop #: WSC 34115 003 1048576
VCID: 30391E007626E87ABFB-8064
VINID: 0E69E070745A0D47462411C214B0A5E00C


2 Faults Found:

008194 - Particulate Trap Bank 1

P2002 - 007 - Efficiency Below Threshold - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100111

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 147731 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2018.02.14

Time: 10:26:46



Freeze Frame:

RPM: 1955 /min

Speed: 42.0 km/h

(no units): 56.1

(no units): 25.5

(no units): 2.28

Pressure: 115 mbar

Pressure: 26 mbar



006744 - NOx Catalyst

P1A58 - 000 - Regeneration Required

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 01100000

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 11

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 148024 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2018.02.20

Time: 21:06:33



Freeze Frame:

RPM: 0 /min

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Load: 3.5 %

Pressure: 968.0 mbar

Temperature: 33.3 C

Mass Air / Rev.: 1100.0 mg/str

Temperature: 44.1 C



Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.clb

Part No SW: 02E 300 062 B HW: 02E 927 770 AL

Component: GSG DSG AG6 512 9430

Revision: 05651213 Serial number: 00001302211189

Coding: 0000020

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

VCID: 1471B290E27E345ABB3-8040



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BL HW: 1K0 907 379 BL

Component: ESP MK60EC1 H31 0152

Revision: 00H31001

Coding: 114B600C492B00FB881206E6921E0042B70000

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

VCID: 7DA7F734FDF4D51264D-8028



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301) Labels:| 3C8-907-336.clb

Part No SW: 7N0 907 426 BH HW: 7N0 907 426 BH

Component: AC Manuell H20 0505

Revision: 00001018

Coding: 0010002002

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00119

ASAM Dataset: EV_ACManueBHBVW36X A01010

ROD: EV_ACManueBHBVW36X_VW36.rod

VCID: 7BA3F92CE360DB225A9-802E



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 1K0-937-08x-09.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 937 084 J HW: 5K0 937 084 J

Component: BCM PQ35 B 021 3068

Revision: BG021001

Coding: 2F380E1A802F3EC4008800C17000004449000086535D0560648020200040

Shop #: WSC 34115 003 1048576

VCID: 392F2324A95C2932085-806C



Subsystem 1 - Part No: 5K1 955 119 Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB

Component: Wischer 29051 26 0512

Coding: 009795



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 5K0-959-655.clb

Part No SW: 5C0 959 655 M HW: 5C0 959 655 M

Component: AirbagVW10G 014 0726

Serial number: 003L4R01WVB1 Dataset Number: 1KM003v__B_ 0047

Coding: 00004E42

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360 001026

ROD: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360.rod

VCID: 3C213A30A6EE1C1A133-8068



Seat occupied recognition:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1KM 959 339 B HW: 1KM 959 339 B

Component: BF-Gewichtss. 006 0001

Serial number: ---0000R--00007ZF000



Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side:

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.V H02 ----

Serial number: 3572MSME48565378ZZZ$



Front Passenger's Side Airbag Crash Sensor:

Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557

Component: S.Sens.Beif.V H02 ----

Serial number: 3582MSME1B6A047BZZZ1



Rear Side Airbag Crash Sensor (on driver's side):

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.H --- ----

Serial number: 3511HSME071D5A2FZZZY



Passenger side rear thorax airbag crash sensor:

Component: S.Sens.Beif.H --- ----

Serial number: 3521HSME03015A2FZZZI



Crash sensor for front airbag: driver side:

Component: F.Sens.Fahr --- ----

Serial number: 35527SME1231342FZZZ7



Crash sensor for front airbag: front passenger side:

Component: F.Sens.Beif --- ----

Serial number: 35627SME5D1C342FZZZW



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels:| 5K0-953-569.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 953 507 AH HW: 5K0 953 549 B

Component: Lenks.Modul 008 0090

Revision: -------- Serial number: 90440MDJ000EN Dataset Number: 5K0953507AH D005

Coding: 188A140000

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00187

ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSNGKUDS A05001

ROD: EV_SMLSNGKUDS_A05.rod

VCID: 76B5E818D842864A257-8022



Multifunction steering wheel control module:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5K0 959 542 C HW: 5K0 959 542 C Labels: 3C8-959-537.CLB

Component: E221__MFL-TAS H31 0037

Serial number: 0211622 FLE 20130418

Coding: 820000



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1

Part No SW: 5K0 920 973 C HW: 5K0 920 973 C

Component: KOMBI H05 0705

Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 270F01

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00119

ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04716

ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_VW32.rod

VCID: 313F1B0471ACE172B05-8064



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 7N0-907-530-V2.clb

Part No SW: 7N0 907 530 AF HW: 7N0 907 530 AF

Component: J533 Gateway H52 1634

Revision: H52 Serial number: 15051303270068

Coding: 352002

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

VCID: 74B1D210CEBE945A1B3-8020



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 1C: Position Sensing Labels: 1Kx-919-xxx-1C.lbl

Part No SW: 5N0 919 879 HW: 5N0 919 879

Component: Kompass 002 0002

Revision: 00002000 Serial number: 1225223RMCEJ07

Coding: 0000002

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

VCID: 7EA5F038FCF2CE0A7D7-802A



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer (J334) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 953 234 HW: 5K0 953 234

Component: IMMO H05 0705

Serial number:

Coding: 000000

Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000

ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03709

ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09_VW21.rod

VCID: 6A8DCC689CFA52AAB1F-803E



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 2E: Media Player 3 (J650) Labels:. 5N0-035-342.lbl

Part No SW: 5N0 035 342 F HW: 5N0 035 342 F

Component: SG EXT.PLAYER H19 0550

Revision: A1001003 Serial number: 7664530452

Coding: 010100

Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000

VCID: 2A0D0C685CFA92AA71F-807E



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver (J386) Labels:| 3C0-959-70X-GEN4.clb

Part No SW: 561 959 701 HW: 3C0 959 793 B

Component: TUER-SG FT 002 0501

Revision: 13110009 Serial number: 0006755446

Coding: 0004B5

Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316

ASAM Dataset: EV_TSGFPQ35BRFVW46X A04001

ROD: EV_TSGFPQ35BRFVW46X_VW36.rod

VCID: 5BE399AC43A03B223A9-800E



Slave Driver:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3C0 959 703 C HW: 3C0 959 795 D Labels: 1K0-959-70X-GEN4.CLB

Component: J388__TSG-HL 009 1509

Serial number: 00000007785366

Coding: 000490



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb

Part No: 1K0 909 144 P

Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 70 3305

Revision: 00H22000

Shop #: WSC 02069 000 90108

VCID: 372B251C93483F42FE1-8062



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:| 3C0-959-70X-GEN4.clb

Part No SW: 561 959 702 HW: 3C0 959 792 B

Component: TUER-SG BT 002 0501

Revision: 15110009 Serial number: 0006742269

Coding: 0004B4

Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316

ASAM Dataset: EV_TSGBPQ35BRFVW46X A04001

ROD: EV_TSGBPQ35BRFVW46X_VW36.rod

VCID: 5CE19AB046AE3C1A333-8008



Slave Passenger:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3C0 959 704 C HW: 3C0 959 794 D Labels: 1K0-959-70X-GEN4.CLB

Component: J389__TSG-HR 009 1509

Serial number: 00000007777655

Coding: 000490



No fault code found.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 56: Radio (J503) Labels:. 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 035 180 AF HW: 1K0 035 180 AF

Component: Radio Prem-8 H02 0010

Revision: -----16S Serial number: VWZ4Z7M3273335

Coding: 01000400040007

Shop #: WSC 55831 001 1048576

VCID: 6491A2507E5E04DA8B3-8030



1 Fault Found:

00625 - Vehicle Speed Signal

004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100100

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 48

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2063.15.31

Time: 15:02:56





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 77: Telephone (J412) Labels:| 7P6-035-730.clb

Part No SW: 7P6 035 730 K HW: 7P6 035 730 K

Component: TELEFON H15 3200

Revision: 1B001001 Serial number: 00007664581142 Dataset Number: 7P6035730K 0001

Coding: 0A10040000010110

Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316

ASAM Dataset: EV_UHVNA 002720

ROD: EV_UHVNA_002.rod

VCID: 3A2D3C28ACDA222A01F-806E



No fault code found.



End----------(Elapsed Time: 01:15, VBatt start/end: 14.0V/14.0V)-----------

 

[pkhoury]

TurboABA, I am not sure what your issue is. This is my "office":

I kinda do this stuff for a living. I have no "god complex", I am just passing what I feel is helpful information along. I have no idea what YOU do for a living, but I sincerely don't think I would spend a bunch of my time trying to tell you that you are doing in wrong, or are dishonest, or in some way incapable of whatever it is you do.

That is one clean shop!

 

[pkhoury]

I have one request though - does anyone have the Rawtek instructions on how to replace the DPF. I can not find my instructions from last time, nor can I find it on their site right now. Please post if you have them.

Right here - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...O_Kit_Instalation_Guide_2021.pdf?v=1611945188

 

[okbabydoc]

I do them all the time, I drop the subframe assembly, steering and all, completely out of the car. Super easy, then you have much more room. Still can be tricky to get that band clamp back lined up going back together.

Between CR TDI DPFs and EA888 blown rear main seals, there is hardly a week that goes by that I do not have the subframe out of some A5 car... two so far this week, and it is only Wednesday.

A quick guide:

Lift the car, making sure you have plenty of room underneath and the car is level.
Disconnect the battery.
From inside the car, make sure the steering wheel is straight ahead, remove the lower steering shaft cover by the pedals.
Remove the steering shaft bolt to pinion, slide the shaft up and off, let it hang, make sure the steering wheel stays straight(ish)
Remove the airbox, battery, battery tray.
Remove the electric steering harness (ground is at ground lug on body, shared with ground strap to trans, power is at fuse link box, communication connector in a clip near backside of headlight)
Unclip the harness, feed it back and stuff it down in the hole between the trans and firewall (this will come down with subframe).
Remove front wheels, lower splash shield, and side shields (NCS/NMS cars, the whole fender liner comes out as they are all one piece).
Remove the sway bar links' upper attachment points to struts.
Remove tie rod end attachment points to knuckles.
Remove exhaust hanger bolts at rear of subframe, and roll mount bolts at transmission.
Support the subframe, remove the six big bolts that hold it to the body and lower it down (note their locations, as some cars use different bolts/lengths in different spots).
Be sure to watch the harness you removed from above so that it doesn't get hung up on anything on the way down.
Remove the right (long) axle heat shield from engine block.
Remove inner CV joint from right axle from transmission and turn the knuckle/swing the axle back and out of the way, secure it however you like (you needn't remove the outer joint bolt).

^^^I usually have this done inside of 30 minutes^^^ Sometimes the upper links' nuts won't come loose, and I have to cut them off and replace the links... these commonly wear anyway, and are cheap.

The DPF:

Unplug both the EGR and DPF pressure sensors (the EGR one is protected by a little space blanket).
Remove the Torx bolt for each (DPF one is the easily seen black one, the EGR one is a backside one going into the valve cover).
Remove the smaller of the two hoses from the EGR sensor (the one on the valve cover).
Both sensors will come out with the remaining hoses attached with the DPF.
Find the wires for the two temp sensors and oxygen sensor at the top of the DPF, follow them over to their connectors in the bracket near the brake master cylinder, disconnect all them, and feed them over towards the passenger side.... these also will all come out with the DPF.
Note: one wire comes in with these at a bracket towards the back of the turbo, this is NOT getting removed, so make sure that wire stays in place.
Remove the three nuts from the upper heat shield, and pull the heat shield off (it'll be a squeeze).
Under where the DPF pressure sensor hoses make the bend, sort of between the DPF and engine, is a single bolt, that is a mounting bolt, remove it.
Go under the car: remove the right plastic underbody shield, then find and unplug the orange connector for the lower EGT sensor, and fish the wire out of its clips in the heat shield. This sensor will also come out with the assembly.
Remove the low pressure EGR tube (two bolts to the EGR cooler, one tiny V-band clamp to DPF).
Remove the V-band clamp at back end, where it attaches to the deNox catalyst.
Loosen V-band clamp at turbo.
Remove lower DPF bracket (two upper nuts, two lower nuts).
Work the DPF off of the turbo with a couple twists, then carefully lower it out the bottom of the car, taking care that all your wires, hoses, and sensors are all coming with you and not getting tangled or caught on anything.

Now you have to swap over the sensors, and the one pipe, from the old DPF to the new DPF. This can be a pain, and it all has to fit exactly, so pay attention, take pictures as to the sensors' orientation.

Tip on V-band clamps: you often have to loosen the bolt, swing it completely out of the way, then tap each segment off of the exhaust to get them loose. They can be a pain. There is also a steel gasket in there, note its position.

Plan on just getting all new clamps, gaskets, and maybe that upper mount bolt.

Going back together, make sure the DPF is fit properly to the turbo before completely tightening down the mounting fasteners. Then, going back and forth, tighten that V-band clamp down. If you do not do it right, you'll have an exhaust leak.

Once you get the car all back together, you need to reset the DPF with VCDS or similar. Let the car know it has a new one, login, adaptation, etc.

 

[okbabydoc]

OilHammer- thanks for the DPF removal instructions. I replaced mine last weekend and glad to say I survived. I thought previous thermostat replacement was hard-boy, was I wrong. I have 2 questions-
1) any specific link, 'sticky thread,' or instructions for resetting the new DPF with my VCDS?
2) How do you clean the tailpipe/muffler?

 

[brkdrvr]

Getting ready to replace DPF in one of my daughters 2014 VW Jetta TDI. this will be my second DPF replacement. The 1st was in my other daughters 2011 JSW it was not that bad, I read Oilhammers instructions and combined with a description of a removal without dropping the subframe was able to remove & replace the DPF much easier than expected. I would note the Oilhammers note about carefully looking at and photographing the DPF assembly with all the sensors in place before removal and replacement should be followed carefully. I do have a couple of questions about DPF replacement in CJAA vehicles. It seems like VW service fired the parts cannon during DPF replacement and switched out many emissions parts during warranty repairs (we were inadvertently given a priced invoice by the dealer for one of our cars during the" fix" they replaced numerous items including the EGR valve, low pressure filter, cooler and several sensors. I assumed that many of the parts were required/allowed by VWAG and overkill?insuranc.I am now wondering if some parts are/or should be required/recommended parts during the DPF "service". I am asking because in the 2011's DPF replacement I ended up also having to replace the EGR low pressure filter pipe to finally get the car to regen properly which in my case required putting back up on stands and removing the passengers axle which took me 10x linger than the filter tube replacement. I now have a replacement low pressure filter pipe as well as a spare cleaned intake manifold & EGR valve. I read where several people have cleaned out the low pressure filter pipe and wonder if this should/can be cleaned? if not replaced. any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[x1800MODMY360x]

And clean the EGR cooler as well, as it should not have any soot in the system.

 

[SierraForester]

Hello. I am new here.
I got TDI MK6 Golf auto from an auction.
120K miles. Looks like was always put chip engine oil.
I got several codes.
Do you guys think my DPF not cleanable?
Is MK7 DPF from 2015 Golf can be used?
P2BA6
P2015
P1007
P240F
P2002

 

[AverageAndy]

Do you guys think my DPF not cleanable?
Is MK7 DPF from 2015 Golf can be used?
P2BA6
P2015
P1007
P240F
P2002

Is there visible soot in the tailpipe? If so DPF is cracked and no amount of cleaning will help. Given that you are in California, you will have to replace DPF. in order to pass smog.

Question: I thought Cali sellers had to provide a current, passing smog certificate? Do auctions not have this requirement?

 

[oilhammer]

Once again:

CBEA/CJAA DPF info | TDIClub Forums

You also need a new intake manifold.

No, nothing from a 2015 will work. Totally different, shares no parts.

 

[SierraForester]

Once again:

CBEA/CJAA DPF info | TDIClub Forums

You also need a new intake manifold.

No, nothing from a 2015 will work. Totally different, shares no parts.

Awesome.
What can I clean?
Intake
EGR
EGR filter??

 

[oilhammer]

Awesome.
What can I clean?
Intake
EGR
EGR filter??

...OMG....

No cleaning.... REPLACING.... Jesus, did you even READ the link I posted? FFS!

 

[SierraForester]

What about after DPF?
The thing looks like catalic, has some sensor in it.

 

[SierraForester]

...OMG....

No cleaning.... REPLACING.... Jesus, did you even READ the link I posted? FFS!

sorry to irritated you.
intake needs to be replaced?
on bmw 335d it is 100% cleanable.
just trying to save money as much as it is possible. Not arguing here. Grateful for your experience help.

 

[oilhammer]

 

[SierraForester]

NSC needs to be replaced? i found a guy parting out TDi.

 

[baldessariclan]

Recently accomplished replacing the DPF in my 2014 JSW TDI — thank you for the excellent instructions, Oilhammer!!

 

[sloinker]

Hmmmmm, I was about ready to bite the bullet and do a delete on my daughter's car a while back. The 401 code and MIL started just after a DSG service. I was in, under and around that car a dozen times looking if I had accidentally unhooked or failed to hook something back up, Nada. Tail pipe is white glove clean. Car only has 40K miles. It is short tripped a lot. So the 401 code meaning plugged dpf was taken seriously. I went ahead and poured some Archoil DPF cleaner in it, reset the fault and drove it on the freeway. Fault came back. Scheduled a dealer visit and MIL went off. Canceled the appointment. Week later MIL came back, went to schedule appointment and dealer months+ out, so I started my research on what I was going to buy from Canada/England and the daughter reports the light is back off. It then cycled on and off a few times over a few weeks. I didn't use the Archoil cleaner again as it is a 6 month interval, but I am using the everyday stuff. According to the online service tech. It is a weaker concentration of the cleaner but should still return results. The MIL went back off, been off a couple of weeks. Time will tell if or when I delete it. The extended warranty is still in place but I am leaning heavily towards the ultimate repair. Now did Oilhammer post step by step instructions for the CRUA like he did for the CJAA? I did see rawtek's online instructions for this vehicle and don't remember the subframe being dropped but I am old and forgetful.