DPF Light and pulled a NOx Fault - Need Advice ASAP

[Gags730]

DPF Light and pulled a NOx Fault - Need Advice ASAP

Hello everyone,

Had a warning light come on the little muffler looking symbol for the DPF.
I hooked up a scanner and pulled only a P1A58 code.
2012 Jetta TDI 2.0L w/ emission update done in May 2019

P1A58/006744 - NOx catalytic converter: Regeneration required

The reason for this code is most likely due to the wife’s driving habits as her job is 2 minutes away and driving has decreased greatly since the pandemic. Very short trips with never enough time for a regen to happen. This behavior will change.

The Question is with this error code…..
Will Regen happen with this code… from everything I could find nothing says that it would inhibit a regen from happening but I really do not know. Not sure if the code means a regen needs to happen asap so basically drive the damn car so the regen can happen!

So the issue is this do I Clear the error code and then go for a drive so Regeneration Happens?… Or just leave error code so that regeneration happens?
Need to know so I can take her car and go for a long drive on the highway in Sports mode so a regen happens….

Extra Info
I also bought the Scanner because I had to clear an Airbag Light. Happened when I disconnected the little light on the panel in front of the shifter below the AC and Heat control knobs. It Cleared the Airbag light so that is not an issue anymore.

This Scanner also has 5 ‘Maintenance’ modes that will reset Oil,Brake,SAS,ETS & DPF.
I don't believe that forces a DPF but clears its so I don't think I should mess with that at all it seems I would use that if I had the DPF cleaned or serviced.

 

[jesus_man]

Subscribed. Mine just popped today, although my commute is 15+ miles and I do it twice a day.

 

[oilhammer]

More and more every day, I feel the "fix" has become an albatross of engineering failure inflicted upon these cars. The DPF failure rate is nearing epic proportions now. This sucks.

You can try to clear it and drive it and see if it will successfully run a regen. Proper scan tool software will allow a manual regen to be initiated so long as it is not too far loaded up already (but this can also tooef the turbo, so be careful). I would drive somewhere on the highway at a steady speed where you know you can drive uninterrupted for 30+ minutes (at least) with not much load change and at around 2500 RPMs (so depending on the speed you can travel, you may need to manually choose the gear).

 

[Sliks]

It means it has reached a preset amount of failed regens. If you know that it's due to driving habits the system is working properly as it should.
Take it on a drive if the scanner you have can't do a forced standing regen. In the drive you need to go around 2000rpm if the vehicle is upto temp it can be done as little as about 3 miles but may take longer if vehicle feels like it. Make sure you have more than 1/4 tank fuel and pick a road which will allow you a undisturbed drive but no need to overdo do it either (it's OK to slow down if you need to)


Use only low saps oil for exhaust system longevity

 

[Sliks]

No need to clear the light. It's just there to let you know. It will go off upon regen and it'll be good indicator

 

[TurboABA]

Yes, this is due to repeated failed regen attempts, most likely due to poor driving cycles, etc.
You need to go for a long cruise.... set your cruise control to 65mph and do a 30 mile constant speed drive.
If you do not have any other errors or failed sensors, it will clear itself.

I had to do this with mine earlier this year after VW replaced some TDI FIX covered things and wanted to charge me 3hrs labor to trigger the regen in their shop..... after laughing at the service manager, I went for a 30min highway cruise and "fixed" it myself.

 

[jesus_man]

More and more every day, I feel the "fix" has become an albatross of engineering failure inflicted upon these cars. The DPF failure rate is nearing epic proportions now. This sucks.

You can try to clear it and drive it and see if it will successfully run a regen. Proper scan tool software will allow a manual regen to be initiated so long as it is not too far loaded up already (but this can also tooef the turbo, so be careful). I would drive somewhere on the highway at a steady speed where you know you can drive uninterrupted for 30+ minutes (at least) with not much load change and at around 2500 RPMs (so depending on the speed you can travel, you may need to manually choose the gear).

Agreed that the "fix" is starting to cause more issues than it fixed... My car may very well turn into an "off-road only" vehicle as it is the same, if not cheaper, to do this than to try and keep up with emissions repairs.

With my car enduring it's first brutal winter in ND, it seems to not want to operate at 190* anymore. Today, right at freezing, I couldn't get it above 180, even driving in 5th gear at 65mph. So I am concerned that my T-stat isn't doing it's job to allow the condition to be right for a regen. I even have the largest piece of cardboard covering the radiator I could stuff in there.

My even bigger concern is I had planned on taking it on a road trip tonight; a 3hr drive. Should I do that, or should I replace the T-stat before I try to leave my home area?

I know mine at least attempted a regen over the weekend as I let it idle @ 1100rpm once I got home, but perhaps it cooled down too quickly??

 

[TurboABA]

Idling your TDI is not the way to allow it to regen.
Take your trip. If you are in a cold climate and are struggling to reach operating temps during your use, blocking the lower grille only with pipe insulation is sufficient. If you're blocked off the whole rad and you're still not heating up, you already have a failed T stat.

 

[TurboABA]

I was looking for a pic of my "setup" from a few years back, but didn't locate it.
Here's a visual of a "similar" approach use on the upper grille instead.
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgu...id=sF5UUB8nNojMoM&w=1280&h=720&source=sh/x/im

 

[jesus_man]

I assumed that idling doesn't allow the regen process to complete, but I figure it is better than shutting the car down.

Thanks for the insulation idea. I will watch the coolant temps on the trip and hopefully watch my MIL go out as well. If not, I will look into replacing the t-stat.

Thanks!

 

[TurboABA]

Worth noting is the possibility that you may have another failed component in the system. When I experienced the issue you are having, I had multiple components fail which lead to the issue..... bad driving patterns may or may not be sufficient to cause it. If you do take your long trip drive and it doesn't clear up, I would suspect that you have another component which has failed and you'll need a more detailed scan\tool to identify it.

011174 - Unknown Error Code - P2BA6 - 000 - - MIL ON
006744 - NOx Catalyst - P1A58 - 000 - Regeneration Required
005076 - Cylinder 3 Internal Pressure Sensor - P13D4 - 000 - Short to Plus - MIL ON
001164 - Sensor for Exhaust Flap - P048C - 000 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
005078 - Cylinder 3 Internal Pressure Sensor - P13D6 - 002 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON

 

[jesus_man]

I did run the ross-tech diagnostics.

I got:
P1A58
P2BA6

There were other related to the navigation and TPMS (which I don't have in these wheels).

 

[TurboABA]

That long drive should clear it up in that case. NAV & TMPS are not contributing to this.

 

[jesus_man]

Took the JSW for the long ride this weekend. Coolant temps hoovered around 180 on the way out in high 30 deg temps. Drove around town for a couple days, and the day before we left to come home, the DPF light came on. Dang! Return trip was in 60 deg weather and the coolant temps were at their normal 190 deg. Within about 40 miles the DPF light goes out, but the P1A58 remains, even after clearing it when we got home.

This is a newish DPF, but I would have to go back thru my records to find out when that was replaced (under warranty).

Looking for suggestions on the next step.

 

[TurboABA]

How long was the freeway (sustained 60mph+) drive for? The city driving wasn't helpful, it actually clogged things up even more.

 

[ticaf]

This is a newish DPF, but I would have to go back thru my records to find out when that was replaced (under warranty).

I think we have a clue here. New(ish) DPF?
1. Why was the DPF replaced? At what mileage? Something else could be causing the DPF to clog up. A typical parts changer type tech would replace the DPF without looking further into why a DPF would be full prematurely.
2. did the tech perform the proper DPF reset after changing that DPF? If not, the ECU may still think it's full of ash.

 

[TurboABA]

No, the DPF is regenerating based on his DPF light on and then off mention.... his NOx cat hasn't had a chance to regen yet...
He needs to drive on the freeway, at a sustained load (60mph+, maintaining close to 2k rpm, for a solid 30min or so)
Simply bogging the car around town or not getting it up to operating temp won't allow the required regen to take place as it requires high EGTs which you can only get under load.

Once again, this assumes that no other failed sensors or errors exist.

 

[jesus_man]

How long was the freeway (sustained 60mph+) drive for? The city driving wasn't helpful, it actually clogged things up even more.

It was 225 mile one-way at 70+mph. We did stop about an hour in for dinner, but there was at least 90 minutes of sustained 70+mph each way. The return trip was into the wind for a significant portion of that. I feel like the car had ample opportunity to regen.

One other strange thing...when I "Auto Run" diagnostics, I get the same MILs, but when I attempt to clear the codes, I get a software error "Professional Grade interface required for this function". I am wondering of the MIL's I have, which one is triggering the Engine Light? Perhaps it's one of the others and it won't go away because I am not able to clear the codes??

I dug out my records. The car was at 129,100 miles (now at 155,300) when the codes P0401 (exh gas recirc flow insuff) and P2002 (Particulate filter trap below efficiency) were present. VW dealer replaced DPF assembly and EGR filter and performed a rescan with no DTC's found.

Thanks for the help with this.

 

[TurboABA]

Post a full VCDS scan so we can see your errors.... there's something else impeding the active regens from happening... you have a failed exhaust flap or something....

 

[jesus_man]

See below. Malfunctions in red (I think...I'm colorblind)

Chassis Type: AJ-VW36 (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 56 62 65 72
77

VIN: 3VWPL7AJ2AM688925 Mileage: 250330km-155547miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: Malfunction 0010
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CJA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 030 K HW: 03L 906 022 TS
Component: R4 2.0l TDI G001AG 9983
Revision: 12H03--- Serial number:
Coding: 0050078
Shop #: WSC 74291 008 00000
VCID: 364DD2C941C1813B29-8062

2 Faults Found:
011174 - Unknown Error Code
P2BA6 - 000 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 250327 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.08.12
Time: 15:18:04

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
(no units): 948.0
Temperature: 10.8°C
Mass Air / Rev.: 1100.0 mg/str
Temperature: 14.4°C

006744 - NOx Catalyst
P1A58 - 000 - Regeneration Required - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 250327 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.08.12
Time: 15:18:04

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
(no units): 948.0
Temperature: 10.8°C
Mass Air / Rev.: 1100.0 mg/str
Temperature: 14.4°C

Readiness: 1 1 0 X 1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.clb
Part No SW: 02E 300 052 T HW: 02E 927 770 AL
Component: GSG DSG AG6 511 9037
Revision: 51112 Serial number: 00001002221510
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 256F0585EC67FAA390-8070

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AJ HW: 1K0 907 379 AJ
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H30 0107
Revision: 00H30001
Coding: 114B600C492A0002881406E6921E0042310000
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 7AD506F9F559A55B8D-802E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301) Labels:| 3C8-907-336.clb
Part No SW: 3C8 907 336 AJ HW: 3C8 907 336 AJ
Component: Climatic H14 0305
Revision: 00009001
Coding: 0000001002
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00147
ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatic A01005
ROD: EV_ClimaBasis_VW36.rod
VCID: 75CF15C5D447CA23E0-8020

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 937 085 G HW: 5K0 937 085 G
Component: BCM PQ35 B++ 111 2129
Revision: BI111001
Coding: 2D380E1A902F3EC480080081400000C401000086535D8560648020000000
Shop #: WSC 49118 001 1048576
VCID: 3753DFCD86CB783332-8062

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K1 955 119 F Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer 19041 21 0512
Coding: 009795

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 5K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 B HW: 5K0 959 655 B
Component: AirbagVW10G 021 0706
Serial number: 003C4D0AVLHP
Coding: 00003044
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360 A01012
ROD: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360.rod
VCID: 3957D9F5B8DF6E43C4-806C

Seat occupied recognition:
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1KM 959 339 HW: 1KM 959 339
Component: BF-Gewichtss. 007 0001
Serial number: ---0000R--000577BT00

Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side:
Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557
Component: S.Sens.Fahr.V H01 ----
Serial number: 3572MSME4D296450ZZZ-

Front Passenger's Side Airbag Crash Sensor:
Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557
Component: S.Sens.Beif.V H01 ----
Serial number: 3582MSME072B6050ZZZP

Rear Side Airbag Crash Sensor (on driver's side):
Component: S.Sens.Fahr.H --- ----
Serial number: 3511HSME68675420ZZZJ

Passenger side rear thorax airbag crash sensor:
Component: S.Sens.Beif.H --- ----
Serial number: 3521HSME644D6D20ZZZU

Crash sensor for front airbag: driver side:
Component: F.Sens.Fahr --- ----
Serial number: 35527SME39113221ZZZ+

Crash sensor for front airbag: front passenger side:
Component: F.Sens.Beif --- ----
Serial number: 35627SME14023221ZZZZ

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY9.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 CD HW: 1K0 953 549 CD
Component: J0527 056 0111
Coding: 0001532
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 76CD12C90141C13BE9-8022

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 5K0 959 542 Labels: 3C8-959-537.CLB
Component: E221__MFL-TAS H05 0010
Coding: 00000130
Shop #: WSC 00000

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1
Part No SW: 5K0 920 970 Q HW: 5K0 920 970 Q
Component: KOMBI H13 0112
Revision: X0013004 Serial number:
Coding: 270F00
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00147
ASAM Dataset: EV_KombiUDSMM9RM10 A04102
ROD: EV_KombiUDSMM9RM10_A04_VW36.rod
VCID: 3C59C0E1B7ED5B6BDF-8068

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels:. 1K0-907-530-V4.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 AD HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: J533 Gateway H07 0112
Revision: H07 01 Serial number: 080410F2000430
Coding: ED807F07400612002002
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 69F749B540FF1EC374-803C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer (J334) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 953 234 HW: 5K0 920 970 Q
Component: IMMO H13 0112
Revision: X0013004 Serial number:
Coding: 000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ImmoUDSMM9RM10 A01102
ROD: EV_ImmoUDSMM9RM10_VW12.rod
VCID: 6AF536B98DF915DB7D-803E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 2E: Media Player 3 (J650) Labels:. 5N0-035-342.lbl
Part No SW: 5N0 035 342 B HW: 5N0 035 342 B
Component: SG EXT.PLAYER H13 0090
Revision: A1001003 Serial number: 7667860220
Coding: 010000
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 266D02895161F1BB99-8072

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation
Cannot be reached

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver (J386) Labels:| 3C0-959-70X-GEN4.clb
Part No SW: 3C0 959 701 B HW: 3C0 959 793
Component: TUER-SG FT 002 0307
Revision: 13101005 Serial number: 0000722633
Coding: 0004B5
Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316
ASAM Dataset: EV_DCU42BroseDriveSide A03004
ROD: EV_DCU42BroseDriveSide.rod
VCID: 27730F8D5E6BE8B3A2-8072

Slave Driver:
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 959 703 AH HW: 1K0 959 795 T Labels: 1K0-959-70X-GEN4.CLB
Component: J388__TSG-HL 006 1401
Serial number: 00000004847972
Coding: 000490

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb
Part No: 1K0 909 144 J
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 70 3001
Revision: 00H17000
Shop #: WSC 02069 000 90108
VCID: 3147E1D5A8AFA6037C-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:| 3C0-959-70X-GEN4.clb
Part No SW: 3C0 959 702 B HW: 3C0 959 792
Component: TUER-SG BT 002 0307
Revision: 15101005 Serial number: 0000719647
Coding: 0004B4
Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316
ASAM Dataset: EV_DCU52BrosePasseSide A03004
ROD: EV_DCU52BrosePasseSide.rod
VCID: 28710CB15375E7CBAB-807C

Slave Passenger:
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 959 704 AH HW: 1K0 959 794 T Labels: 1K0-959-70X-GEN4.CLB
Component: J389__TSG-HR 006 1401
Serial number: 00000004842927
Coding: 000490

1 Fault Found:
67330 - Switch for Central Locking
B122D 29 [008] - Signal Implausible
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 51
Mileage: 249853 km
Date: 2021.03.18
Time: 18:53:29


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio (J0506) Labels:. 1T0-035-680.clb
Part No SW: 3C0 035 684 C HW: 3C0 035 684 C
Component: RNS-MID H06 1000
Revision: AB001001 Serial number: VWZ6Z7K5079095
Coding: 040004000400008600
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 236B1B9D22530493FE-8076

1 Fault Found:
02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 13
Mileage: 216688 km
Time Indication: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure (J502) Labels:. 1K0-937-08x-65.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 937 085 G HW: 5K0 937 085 G
Component: RDK 111 0821
Coding: 018705
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3753DFCD86CB783332-8062

1 Fault Found:
01521 - Sensor for Tire Pressure
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 224138 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.09.28
Time: 12:19:60


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 77: Telephone (J738) Labels:. 1K8-035-730.clb
Part No SW: 1K8 035 730 D HW: 1K8 035 730 D
Component: Telefon H08 6900
Revision: 00008000 Serial number: 00000330668610
Coding: 412100
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 2A75F6B94579D5DBBD-807E

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:34)--------------------------

 

[TurboABA]

Readiness: 1 1 0 X 1

I suspect that is your issue. Not all your readiness monitors are "ready".

Whenever you clear DTCs, all readiness bits that are testable will be set to "Fail" or "Failed or Incomplete". Most cars do not have all 8 systems, so the ECU should recognize the bits corresponding to systems that are not actually in the car. These will come up "Passed" automatically without going through any tests.

It takes a variety of specific driving conditions to "test" all the systems. In practice, driving a properly-functioning car for 2-3 days including at least one short highway trip, should be sufficient to test each of the Readiness Bits to set all of the testable ones to "Pass".

You may be able to "set readiness" under engine\readiness\set readiness..... I can't recall as it's been a minute since I've poked around there.

 

[jesus_man]

My Rediness function is grayed out, just like this:

It appears I was able to clear the codes as the MIL is off. I suspect it will come back on.

Honestly, I am far from a VCDS expert so I am kinda feeling my way thru like trying to walk thru an unfamiliar and very dark room.

 

[TurboABA]

It will only come back when a component fails or if you continue to drive\use it in a pattern that doesn't allow it time to regen.

 

[jesus_man]

So perhaps I need to revisit the idea of replacing the T-stat so the engine temps can be properly maintained.

 

[TurboABA]

Considering that you have VCDS, I don't really understand the struggle to determine if the T-stat is or is not working properly....
Don't just read your coolant temp off the cluster guage..... log it with VCDS, right from cold start, through a proper driving cycle..... You should be more than able to see what's happening instead of having to guess. If you have flaky temps\readings, then you may not be meeting the "prerequisites" for regens to be triggered by the ECM.

 

[Gags730]

UPDATE - 3/23/2021
We called the dealer and had to make an appointment as they are very busy (of course they are). Took awhile to get the appointment.
The original post for this was on May 10th and we got the car to the dealer on May 19th (if I were to wait for a loaner that would take 1 more week)

So the dealer checked out the car and according to them the P1A58/006744 - ( NOx catalytic converter: Regeneration required )
is from excess soot and they need to drive the car. So NO parts are required as of now to fix the car... Just Driving the car will fix the issue according to them and that is what they are going to do... Drive the car. If they do a force Regen I dont know, but they did send a video from the service department stating what they intend to do... this is the video I got from them today....

Like I said the Dealer actually sends you a video... So here that video is with what is wrong and what the repair... really doesn't say much

 

[TurboABA]

So the dealer checked out the car and according to them the P1A58/006744 - ( NOx catalytic converter: Regeneration required )
is from excess soot and they need to drive the car. So NO parts are required as of now to fix the car... Just Driving the car will fix the issue according to them and that is what they are going to do... Drive the car.

Yes, this is due to repeated failed regen attempts, most likely due to poor driving cycles, etc.
You need to go for a long cruise.... set your cruise control to 65mph and do a 30 mile constant speed drive.
If you do not have any other errors or failed sensors, it will clear itself.

I had to do this with mine earlier this year after VW replaced some TDI FIX covered things and wanted to charge me 3hrs labor to trigger the regen in their shop..... after laughing at the service manager, I went for a 30min highway cruise and "fixed" it myself.

So many users around these forums post and ask for advice\guidance, but then totally ignore what the rest of us who have already dealt with these "problems" suggest that you do. I will laugh if they bill you for driving your vehicle around.

 

[Gags730]

So many users around these forums post and ask for advice\guidance, but then totally ignore what the rest of us who have already dealt with these "problems" suggest that you do. I will laugh if they bill you for driving your vehicle around.

Here is the deal... how everything transpired. We called the dealer to make an appointment to get the car serviced they told us do NOT drive the car. I even told them the code I pulled because I just wanted them to force a regen if possible and I would literally spend the day driving the car around until the DPF light went out because it took so long to get the appointment and to get a loaner that would be another week. I just came right out with it and asked the guy when I bring the car in if they could scan it real quick and if all that was needed was a Regen then can they force the regen and Ill drive the car all day if need be. Yeahhh hahaha it wasworth a shot, they didn't wanna hear that crap. I mean not have the dealer give you thousands of dollars in estimates for stuff not needed right away... they wouldn't give that opportunity up.

Of course, I tried to clear that DPF light myself by driving...I did take the car out and drive it for more than 2 hours (almost 2 1/2) in sport mode on the highway at like 11 PM so there would be no traffic at all. The tank was full so I got out on the highway and kept the RPMs at like 2300 - 2400 the entire time. So after 1AM I was tired and it still did not clear the code so I went back home.

When I called and spoke to them they make a point of telling you that driving it with the DPF light on could make the call a 'Cash' call and not a warranty one. So if you drive with that light on they may not cover it. What I was thinking about is the computer knows everything these days. It knows how many regens were attempted and failed and it knows how far I have driven since a failed regen and it shows it in meters I saw that screen on my scanner. I don't think it is hard for them to tell just how much you drove with that light on, so I can imagine if they want to jerkoffs they can.

I want to thank everyone for their input you guys are great.... I learned a lot from this. Basically if I didnt have the car in warranty youjust need to drive the hell out of the car on the highway with higher RPMs...Exactly what everyone said to do. You guys were bang on!...
I spoke with 2 of the mechanics there and they said sometimes you have to drive the car all day just to clear it if there are no part failures. Some codes will not let a regen happen.

Again it was covered in warranty so it was also good seeing what the dealer does in warranty with the issue. If I had to pay for this I would just keep driving as suggested as I only had the one code saying a regen was required and that was all I could see.
In a way if it is in warranty you are stuck between a **** and a fart because the computer knows how many miles (meters) you traveled since the last regen and how many attempts took place. So they basically know if you are driving around with that light on. This is the first time I have ever used the dealer to service a car. Their pricing is insane. They wanted $1100 for Tires and alignment and almost $600 for just Rear Only pads and rotors.


Update : 3/24 11AM

They called and said that the car is done and I can pick it up. I didn't have time to go over the details on the phone so when I go there I will get all the specifics and post it.

 

[Almagne]

Gags730 and jesus_man: Any updates on your issues?

 

[jesus_man]

It's actually turned into a nightmare. I decided to replace the thermostat, which in my opinion is the worst service I have ever had to do on any vehicle. I would much rather do a timing belt again!

Anyway I spent 8-9hrs on Saturday fighting to get the thermostat out and a new one back in. As I was re-installing the dipstick tube, the bottom 3" of it snapped off; likely falling into the oil pan. By that time, I needed a break. So there it has sat since. If my new dipstick assembly arrives Friday, I will be back after it, trying to be more careful. If during the process I don't find the broken off piece, I will drain the oil and hope I can fish out the broken piece. If not, I suppose I will pull the oil pan.

Oilhammer recommends removing the entire front of the car including radiator, inner cooler, headlights, bumper etc. Perhaps that is the right move and one I had started down. There is just so little room in there to work and fasteners are buried under and behind things.

The worst part is, this isn't a guarantee to fix my problem. I hope to have a positive report this weekend.