DPF cracked - options?

ThomasCo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
So it has finally hit my 2010 JSW: the dreaded P401 and P2002 errors have shown repeatedly. First occurrence was in May 2022: CEL came on, VCDS confirmed both errors and suggested a forced regen. I did that and it temporarily fixed the issue until late December 2022 when CEL and the two errors appeared again. Another forced regen made the CEL go away, but not for long. Just a couple hundred miles later it is back again. Knowing from all the helpful posts in this community that this means a cracked DPF I am now looking at options.

I bought the vehicle in 9/2020 for about $4K and it has since served us very well. We put about 25K miles on it with only having done DIY oil changes, DIY transmission fluid change, DIY TB and thermostat change. I originally bought it as a hobby car to learn about cars and never expected to drive it that much and for it to be so reliable. It has now 207K miles on it. I did read up on DIY DPF replacement and feel confident enough to do it with 4 jack stands and all the tools that I have. Engine is CJAA but I don't know if I have the DPF with the NOx cat built-in or separate. The only concern that I have is, is it cost prohibitive to attempt this on a vehicle with this kind of mileage?

I would love for you guys to chime in on whether or not it makes sense or if you would personally do it. So far I have come up with the following thoughts:

* DPF and new EGR filter will likely cost around $1,500 plus core charge, which I hope is easy to claim back once I return the old part. We live about an hour from Tijuana, Mexico and I am hoping that I can get a new DPF/EGR filter from the dealership over there for much less (in the hopes that they can order the parts for a US vehicle). Is there a way for me to figure out which DPF / part number I need without taking it apart first? I will likely need a wheel alignment after the job too because I'm not a pro and am not expecting to drop the subframe and put it back on just the way it was, so I am calculating with another $100 for that
* We have a second vehicle and both work from home, so mobility during the repair will not be an issue. We also have a 2-car garage where I will be able to do the work.
* The vehicle has a lot of miles on it already, but has been performing great so far. However, I am a little concerned that after putting all the money and work into this repair, another wear-and-tear item will crap out soon leaving me with the same situation. I believe the HPFP is fine as I do not see any metal shavings when I change the oil. The only item of "concern" is the DSG-- although it has been since I bought the vehicle and do not think it has gotten any worse. Specifically, this transmission seems to have trouble getting into or staying in first gear. Example, I am parked and move the lever from P into D, sometimes (like once in a blue moon) the gear pops out and stalls the engine. Another example, I am in stop-and-go traffic on an incline, while in D, if I let go of the brake pedal too quickly the car will also stall. Of course I know that this is not normal and attempted DSG calibration via VCDS but have not been able to fix it with that. Also, over the last 25K miles of use, this hasn't gotten any worse. I don't know if this is the original transmission, original DMF etc. as I purchased the vehicle with 182K miles on it.
* We live in CA, so DPF delete is not an option. Smog check is every other year but 2023 is a smog year. If this DPF issue won't hurt the vehicle or put it into limp mode eventually, could I just do a forced regen right before I take it to the smog check and just "live" with the cracked DPF?
* Vehicle replacement is difficult -- used cars are expensive right now, plus the risk of not knowing what I'm getting into. Also, good luck finding another TDI, especially in CA. We don't need a second car but it's much easier with it (which makes it moot to even think about buying a new car). Plus the JSW was a champ during our remodel with countless hardware store runs-- my personal favorite: picking up a 28 ft extension ladder :).

I feel like I definitely got my money out of this vehicle and learned a lot along the way. I am just not sure when enough is enough and am hoping to get some insight from you guys. Thank you so much!
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The DPF is never a matter of 'if' but instead 'when'. Not a huge deal to replace one so long as you are patient and don't fight things. I've done a LOT of them. Can't speak to the Mexican parts sourcing, but there is only one DFP assembly for your car. It left the factory with the two-piece deal, so you needn't mess with the deNOx catalyst.

If you have the ability to drop the subframe out, it will make the job much easier, and that is not hard to do really. If you are doing it on the ground, you just need to exercise safety, making certain the jack stands are secure, and the car is level (so, get the back up, too, although that can be supported with the wheels as you needn't take those off).
 

ThomasCo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
The DPF is never a matter of 'if' but instead 'when'. Not a huge deal to replace one so long as you are patient and don't fight things. I've done a LOT of them. Can't speak to the Mexican parts sourcing, but there is only one DFP assembly for your car. It left the factory with the two-piece deal, so you needn't mess with the deNOx catalyst.

If you have the ability to drop the subframe out, it will make the job much easier, and that is not hard to do really. If you are doing it on the ground, you just need to exercise safety, making certain the jack stands are secure, and the car is level (so, get the back up, too, although that can be supported with the wheels as you needn't take those off).
Thanks, oilhammer! Would you happen to have the VW part number for the DPF w/o NOx cat? Do they just separate from each other when taking out the DPF?

Also, you mentioned in another thread that EGR filter replacement may not be necessary if part gets cleaned. Is that something a rookie w/o shop equipment can do?

Edit: 1K0254708GX is what I found for the DPF part number. Does that look like the correct part? Thank you so much.
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Your local dealer will have the most recent part numbers. They've changed several times. 1K0-254-708-GX is I think the newest one, but not sure.

You'll also need some gaskets, clamps, etc.

We have a powerful cleaner that works well for the clogged EGR tubes. You can try something like Castrol Super Clean, as that stuff has similar properties, just not as concentrated. You can also try the ChemDip carb tank, but some of this stuff may be contraband in California, as you've legislated yourself into such nonsense. WD40 causes cancer there (and only there). LOL
 

ThomasCo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
Your local dealer will have the most recent part numbers. They've changed several times. 1K0-254-708-GX is I think the newest one, but not sure.

You'll also need some gaskets, clamps, etc.

We have a powerful cleaner that works well for the clogged EGR tubes. You can try something like Castrol Super Clean, as that stuff has similar properties, just not as concentrated. You can also try the ChemDip carb tank, but some of this stuff may be contraband in California, as you've legislated yourself into such nonsense. WD40 causes cancer there (and only there). LOL
Much appreciated-- and just FYI, I am a CO transplant, all these chemicals were banned WAY before I got here ;)

So no ray gun or any special tools needed to clean the filter, other than the cleaner itself?
 

ThomasCo

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Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
@ThomasCo : Some part numbers here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/golf+variant+sportwagen/gov/2010-685/2/253-253070/
Data here is from around 2016, so some of the part revs may be older (e.g., #3. -G shown, -J current). --g
Thanks! I confirmed with a local dealership that 1K0254708GX is in fact the DPF and that it fits my vehicle. I shopped around a little bit and found one at a dealership that is one hour away from me for $983.82 (20% off what other dealerships charge). Core charge is $700 but I am not sure if I will ever see that money again, especially when the old DPF is cracked.

Is that an acceptable price?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Your core is still a good core, they don't take them apart or anything, they are just scrapped. But $700 is a lot more than a scrapper will give you, generally.
 

ThomasCo

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Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
Can anyone tell me if 1K0131723AD is the same part and just superseded by 1K0254708GX? I did find several of these used in my area, would be a way better deal than buying new/reconditioned.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
That may be the number that is on one of the pieces of the assembly, but ETKA doesn't show that anymore. Just know that these parts are VERY common to fail, and it is a BIG job to swap them. At least it is a quick easy thing to look in the outlet and see if any soot is in there. Then you know right away it's no good.
 

DrGERTol

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Aug 27, 2020
Location
NW OH
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2011 Golf Variant (JSW) 6MT
Can anyone tell me if 1K0131723AD is the same part and just superseded by 1K0254708GX? I did find several of these used in my area, would be a way better deal than buying new/reconditioned.
That p/n is likely for the DPF itself -- see this post from 2015: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/fs-2-0l-cr-tdi-dpf-1k0131723ad.433706/
ETKA has no information on that specific part number.
It seems likely to me that VAG used the same DPF in different CR TDI applications (Golf, Golf Variant/SportWagen, Jetta, Beetle, Toureg, A3, etc.). So, unless you know the assembly came from a Golf Variant/SportWagen, be prepared for application/fitting differences. --g
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
All the CJAAs, regardless of model/platform, use the exact same DPF. I do them all the time. Everything is the same until you get after all the exhaust emissions components. The axle pipe/mufflers are what changes.
 

DrGERTol

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Location
NW OH
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2011 Golf Variant (JSW) 6MT
Yes, of course OH is correct -- all the VAG 2.0 CR TDIs of that generation used the same DPF *assembly* (which makes sense). Just wondering if the DPF component might have been used in another assembly in the NA market (seems not likely). --g
 

ThomasCo

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Sep 15, 2020
Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
I have been talking with @r90sKirk who pulled a DPF with that exact part number from a 2012 Jetta (not JSW). Just wanted to triple check with the community before having that shipped from MI all the way to CA.

@oilhammer I am a little confused/scared. In post #2 you said "not a huge deal to replace one" and in post #10 you mentioned that "it is a BIG job to swap them". Should I feel discouraged now??
 

DrGERTol

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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
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Location
outside St Louis, MO
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There are just too many to list....
By not a huge deal I meant it is commonplace, they are not really a life altering event. It is a big job, but not that difficult but I certainly would not want to do it again any time soon on the same car.
 

ThomasCo

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Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
By not a huge deal I meant it is commonplace, they are not really a life altering event. It is a big job, but not that difficult but I certainly would not want to do it again any time soon on the same car.
Whew, thanks @oilhammer! I was about to despair. I've replaced thermostat and TB on mine, I hope that qualifies me to do this one too (with a bottle of chill pills handy, of course).
 

ThomasCo

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Location
SoCal
TDI
2010 JSW TDI
By not a huge deal I meant it is commonplace, they are not really a life altering event. It is a big job, but not that difficult but I certainly would not want to do it again any time soon on the same car.
@oilhammer, I have followed your instructions in the other thread and am in the process of "sewing her up". Do you or anyone else have torque specs for the 6xM10 bolts that connect the axle to the DSG? Also, any torque specs for the single mounting bolt and the four nuts on the mounting bracket?
 
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ThomasCo

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SoCal
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2010 JSW TDI
Update: I successfully replaced the DPF myself and everything seems to be working fine. I ran the Long Adaptation for DPF replacement to reset soot and oil ash levels afterwards and also tried to reset the differential pressure sensors (G450) but am not sure if I did so successfully or not (you need to turn off the ignition after initializing the procedure and then VCDS loses the connection and doesn’t tell you if everything went correctly).

The Mrs. and I took her on a nice and sporty test drive about 160 miles round trip. I want to say that the car has more boost after cleaning the EGR filter, that might just be in my head though. DPF differential pressure offset is 0 mbar whereas DPF differential pressure on idle is 5 mbar. I hope this is ok.

Overall it was a very doable job using Rawtek’s instructions to disconnect the sensors and wires and oilhammer’s instructions for the rest. I cannot overemphasize the importance of one of his remarks. Make absolutely positively sure that you mount all the sensors the exact same way as they were on the old DPF. Your sensors won’t connect in the right places, tubes/wires are going to run too close to the DPF when installed and you’ll have more trouble than you want with the one mounting bolt. Thanks @oilhammer and also @BarnyardsTDI !
 
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PRY4SNO

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Edmonton, AB
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2013 Touareg Execline
@oilhammer, I have followed your instructions in the other thread and am in the process of "sewing her up". Do you or anyone else have torque specs for the 6xM10 bolts that connect the axle to the DSG? Also, any torque specs for the single mounting bolt and the four nuts on the mounting bracket?
Did you get the torque specs somewhere?

Would be handy to have them listed here if so, for anyone else searching in the future...
 

ThomasCo

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Location
SoCal
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2010 JSW TDI
Did you get the torque specs somewhere?

Would be handy to have them listed here if so, for anyone else searching in the future...
I researched the sh*t out of this and couldn't find anything for the single DPF mounting bolt and the four nuts on the lower mounting bracket, so I just tightened them really good. As for the 6xM10 drive shaft to transmission bolts, I saw specs from a MkV that said 40Nm/30ftlbs for M8 and 70Nm/51ftlbs for M10. My replacement bolts are coming in today (have only used the old ones for the test drive) and I will tighten them to the 70Nm spec.
 

DrGERTol

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ThomasCo

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Chef-CJ

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Dallad
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Oilhammer, can you tell me what you generally charge to replace the DPF? I'm really trying to find the best solution for what I know is going to happen soon.

I'm at 116k miles and out of the warranty, so I know it's just a matter of time. I bought the car with low miles, and while I love it, I still owe on it. I'm wondering if for the sake of longevity I should delete, which looks to cost me around 2.3k. I've already sunk in enough that I'll likely never get my money's worth it if it, but I'm afraid of sinking in even more considering it seems super expensive to have anyone buy myself work on it. I'm handy (I've done the timing belt, the thermostat, all regular maintenance) but the DPF may well be a bridge too far for me. I live in texas, where they don't emissions test, so that isn't the worry.
 
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