Common Rail Timing Belt replacement notes tips
Just did John's timing belt a week ago. Common Rail engine. Not really any startling difference from an ALH.
I did take great pains to ensure the fuel system was refilled - as it was emptied partially by the TB work, then even more by filter replacement. I ran the lift pump a couple of times, then both the lift and aux pumps three times.
http://www.contitech.de/pages/produk...cial_01_en.pdf for Contitech's instructions. It leaves off a lot of the interference removal.
Some notes I made:
Penciled in to my Bentley A5 service manual section 15b.
page 9 exploded drawing - bolt 17 should say "always replace" Large roller bolt.
page 9 exploded drawing - bolt #28 vibration dampener bolts, there is only about 2 threads of these bolts not embedded in the crank pulley, so when I tightened them 90 degrees they felt as if they were getting very weak. So I removed one - it came loose very easily (I think it was severely overstretched) it seemed much easier to remove than when initially taking the car apart. I replaced all four bolts (used new bolts each time) and this time only turned them an additional 45 degrees. Violate the tech manual instructions at your own risk. This is just what I did.
Page 10, I removed the fuel filter squeeze clips where the underhood lines meet the under car lines, took the bolts out of the fuel canister mount, and rotated the whole assembly up and over the top of the engine, leaving the fuel lines on the aux pump and HPFP intact.
Page 10 I did not remove the intake air duct.
Page 11 I did not have to remove the ribbed belt tensioner - a pleasant surprise.
page 11 I did not have to remove any coolant pipe brackets.
Page 12 I did not have to losen any coolant bracket bolts.
Page 14 Remove both Cam and HPFP rig pins prior to rolling the engine two turns.
Page 15 specified Clockwise rotation.
Page 16. Note that the cam and HPFP bolts are finally tightened an extra quarter turn. I only tightened them to 20 Nm when rolling the engine by hand initially - only when everything was just right did I do the extra 90 degrees. The extra 90 degrees tightening means that these bolts must be replaced each time.
Page 17 run the lift pump via output test 2x for 30 seconds, then run both the lift and aux pumps 3x for 30 seconds via basic settings 35.
Some photos are at
https://docs.google.com/?tab=mo&auth...U1ZjkxNzYwZjYz