Dodge Dakota Quad 4X4 ALH

[Motohead1]

Took the dash apart to mount a cheap EGT/Boost/Temp gauge.

replaced some blown bulbs in the dash and put it back together.

After heat cycling it and topping off the coolant (or so I thought) we backed it out of the garage under its own power. Still waiting on my fan switch to get here so I alligator clipped the fan relay just so we could take it for a drive. That didnt last long as the coolant temp started to climb past 200 eventually jumping above 230 but dropped at idle. I had to have an air pocket or stuck thermostat. We let it cool down and I pulled the thermostat also picked up a new one and boiled them both in the kitchen. The old one started to open at 180 and new one started at 190. But they both worked so it had to be an air pocket. I put the new tstat back in and it did the same thing. So I thought maybe water pump spinning on the shaft? So I proceeded to do my timing belt install a little earlier than expected. So this might have been timing belt job 3? on this cam sprocket as it decided to crack. So Im waiting on a new sprocket and bolt. Should be here by Thursday.

O yea the old water pump was fine. Metal impeller and had to have been replaced on the last belt job. I am now starting to think I just had a massive air pocket. I will venturi vac fill it and I think that will fix it. I might also drill a small hole in the thermostat.

Atleast it sounds like a real truck now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUt7UuD0x3U

 

[smelly621]

I had the same issue with air pockets in my swap. What ended up working best was a combination of filling as much of the cooling system through the highest hose I could access (the heater core inlet on the firewall in my case), and then letting it warm up with the front end raised and rad cap off. Even then, it still had to work through some air pockets as I noticed it pulled coolant in from the overflow bottle for a few heat cycles.

That's a bummer on the cam sprockets - I feel like I have just started hearing about them cracking - never though of it as a part likely to fail.

For anyone else trying to troubleshoot a slipping water pump impeller - it's possible to push on it with the thermostat removed, as well as feel if it's turning while rotating the engine by hand via the crank bolt. I tried to hold mine while I turned the engine to check for any slipping.

 

[chucky2]

I thought I remember reading on here relatively recently (past couple of months) someone having the same problem...they ended up buying a kit that allowed you to get all the air out. Might be worth a forum search (it could have been Hasenwerk?)...

 

[Hasenwerk]

I thought I remember reading on here relatively recently (past couple of months) someone having the same problem...they ended up buying a kit that allowed you to get all the air out. Might be worth a forum search (it could have been Hasenwerk?)...

I'm still having issues with mine. I replaced EVERYTHING! New rad, new water pump, re-did the cylinder head and head gasket, new t-stat and the other day when driving home it went to 107C before starting to go back down to the low 90s. When I got home, the input pipe from the radiator was stone cold - so that to me means a stuck t-stat in my books. So next warm weekend I will replace the t-stat again, do another vacuum fill of the system and see what happens.

I'm convinced that the cylinder head is the issue with a pocket of air at the high point which is cylinder #1 so I am going to re-fill with the nose of the truck down hill just to make sure. I wish I had a scrap cylinder head to see exactly where one could put a bleeding port like there is on the #4 cylinder side of things - that would solve everything.

 

[greengeeker]

I'm convinced that the cylinder head is the issue with a pocket of air at the high point which is cylinder #1 so I am going to re-fill with the nose of the truck down hill just to make sure. I wish I had a scrap cylinder head to see exactly where one could put a bleeding port like there is on the #4 cylinder side of things - that would solve everything.

I've had the discussion with Frank and am planning on giving this a go soon. I intend to update your thread on the topic when I have something to share.

 

[Motohead1]

I think my plan will be to pop the small bleed hose off the back of the head to atmosphere while I fill it up as this will open up the system to let the block fill. Because even if I put a hole in the thermostat it still wouldn't fill the block cavity the way I have the hoses routed. I will also at the same time open the top heater core port as its the highest point in the system on level ground. I do need to uncrank the front torque arms some as the truck sitting just slightly higher up front with the ALH.

 

[Motohead1]

I've had the discussion with Frank and am planning on giving this a go soon. I intend to update your thread on the topic when I have something to share.

If yall figure this out I will be drilling and tapping as this is the best solution to these higher angled installs.

 

[compu_85]

Re: Fan control: On the ALH the fans are triggered by 2 means. The primary way is the dual temp switch mounted on the radiator. As a backup, the instrument cluster can command the fan control module to turn the fans on high if the coolant temp gets really really hot.

I just retrofitted electric radiator fans to my Mercedes, and used the dual temp switch from a BMW. It worked out great!

-J

 

[Motohead1]

Yea I have an E36 M3 and almost used one of there very simple thermo switches as they have several different ones for the desired temp ranges. But I opted for the bulky but adjustable switch so I can fine tune it to kick on. After I know the range I might put a BMW style one in later though.

 

[Motohead1]

So timing belt and water pump completed. I also filled the coolant system by popping the small bleed hose off the back of the head and sure enough you could hear the rush of air come out and fill the block up. Put that hose back on and popped the upper hearer core hose to let that trapped air escape. I let it idle and it warmed up to 192F and stayed there as the thermostat opened up. Timing is set and it runs very smooth now.

I hope to knock out a few more things tomorrow like a new power steering pump to fix the one that I burned up and driveshaft ujoints and then take it for a real test drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsqpv3dJibg

 

[Motohead1]

Well I drove it today to take my power steering core back to the parts store and it was eventful. Cooling seems fine but it did get to 208F but came down to 195 at idle. I have the smaller port of the aft coolant flange looped right back into the suction hard line below it. I might cap this off so the suction line is only pulling from the oilcooler-heater core-return pipe. Not sure as i will give it a few more heat cycles.

As I left the parts store I noticed the dodge voltage meter drop and confirmed with torque pro. It kept running all the way to the driveway at only 11.2 volts. So the original 90amp died. I will pick up a reman bosch 120amp unit.

Its got good power but needs some tweeking. I need to check the IQ to make sure its in range. was going to that today but broke stuff and all killed my time.

 

[1.9ZOOK]

Can't think of anything to say besides,Isn't it nice to get to this stage
of the project.

Mine runs around 201>203 when it's 90ish out.When in 4low low going up hill for awhile
it will get up to 210ish.

 

[Motohead1]

Thanks Zook. Good to know on the temps. Yes it is nice to be drive-able and it really helps that most of the unknowns are now known. Just a few more things to knock out including new tires and alignment and I will throw it into daily driver duty.

 

[Motohead1]

I put the 120amp alt on and its back to running. Last major hurtle is getting the RPM signal to work. I am trying to use a dakota digital box to fire it off and was working on that today for about an hour. I tried pin 27 and the W line off the alternator but still not working. Ill try to parallel the ALH crank signal next. Did I read right that the ALH is a 60-2 crank trigger? I haven't figured that out yet.

At the same time I had the fuel pump relay pulled for other reasons while it was idling and I noticed air bubbles in the clear inlet fuel line and soon after enough to starve the IP and so the engine died. There is plenty of fuel in the tank. So does this mean the IP wont pull through the cummins lift pump? The reason I used the cummins lift pump was I thought if it died it would still be able to run. Any 5.9 guys know if thats true? Its a 2004 dodge 5.9 in tank assembly. you can see pics in previous post. Maby the H connector between the return and feed has something to do with it? I caint have that I will have to fix it.

 

[Exenos]

The 04 5.9 is the common rail version which requires a lift pump afaik to run unlike the ve/vp (maybe P-pump?) trucks so I would assume they didn't bother with a pass through pump.

 

[smelly621]

Temps sound about normal to me - mine runs 196-200F when fully warmed up. Will go up a few degrees if pulling a big grade or taking a spirited rip.

I suspect variations/tolerances in the CTS and thermostat (as well as operating environment, and hose routing) likely "stack up" leading to us all observing a slight range of temperatures.

I stopped worrying about my temps being 5 degrees warmer than others, since they were consistent, I wasn't losing coolant, and they were well below the boiling point of the coolant. Keep an eye on it - but don't assume it's a problem if you're not seeing exactly 195 degrees all the time.

 

[Motohead1]

Exenos you are correct on the 04 up. My pump assembly was also a service bulletin for the older trucks that still had the weak and crappy external lift pump and those were Vp44 pump engines. I think I will leave it be for now and when or if it does fail I will drop the tank anyway and I will modify it then. Besides one less thing to do for now.

Had an hour today to try and get the RPM signal to work. I did figure out the "W" wire is not the same W wire found on most diesel trucks as there is no AC frequency being output so I caint use it for signal. I will try to use the crank signal next like I had planed from the get go.

 

[Motohead1]

Temps sound about normal to me - mine runs 196-200F when fully warmed up. Will go up a few degrees if pulling a big grade or taking a spirited rip.

I suspect variations/tolerances in the CTS and thermostat (as well as operating environment, and hose routing) likely "stack up" leading to us all observing a slight range of temperatures.

I stopped worrying about my temps being 5 degrees warmer than others, since they were consistent, I wasn't losing coolant, and they were well below the boiling point of the coolant. Keep an eye on it - but don't assume it's a problem if you're not seeing exactly 195 degrees all the time.

Your right im not going to worry to much unless Im losing coolant.

 

[Motohead1]

Tach is fixed! This should apply to any 4.7 with a 16 tooth crank. If you had a 32 tooth (changed around 2003 I believe) it probably wont work with the dakota digital DSL-1e box. You would need there speedometer box to get enough resolution. It might work if it was originally a v6 truck.

I am using a DSL-1E box set to gear tooth with a tooth count of 1 with 8cyl output using pin 27/121 for signal and putting the dodge crank signal in normal slot and the cam signal in out3 (1/2 output). It works every time.
https://youtu.be/OUt7UuD0x3U

 

[Motohead1]

Well I drove it home tonight and filled up the tank. There still some stuff to get done for sure but its good enough for commuter duty. Ill find out in the morning traffic. The major issue is the speedometer isnt working and ABS and airbag light is on. Its all related I believe as the wheel speed signal from the rear end goes to the ABS module and it spits out the VSS signal for the speedo. Unfortunately I caint find a reset sequence that dosent involve a DRB3. So I might have to pony up $120 and have the dealer clear it. I will load up some better video when I can this is all I got for now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7alp140bMl8

 

[1.9ZOOK]

Ah come on Gramma,hit the skinny peddle......

 

[Motohead1]

haha yea thats 4th gear. definitely going to need to regear it but I can live with it for now as thats next years budget maybe.

 

[Motohead1]

First commute today was a success. It was in the 40s this morning and almost 80F on the way home my 48 mile round trip to work. Finally found a tbolt clamp small enough for the BV43a outlet so I could actually get on it if need be as it was popping off at 12lbs. There is plenty of torque but it will need a gear change when I can afford it. A minimum 4.10 for sure. 5th gear is only for land speed records. .73 5th on 30.5 inch tire with 3.55s is only 2000rpm at 70mph. So for now I keep it in 4th to keep the EGT happy.

List of things yet to do.

Fix speedo/ABS--Have to swing by the dealer to DRB3 it.

Complete the exhaust.

Finish aero shrouding around intercooler

Brake switch bracket /cruise control

Need an alignment and tires

Cleanup harness loom under hood.

Front pumpkin needs to go back in after gear swap.

There is some tweaking to be done on the tune also I just need to send some logs off

Thats it for now updates when I have them.

 

[1.9ZOOK]

Nice looking truck...
I was running 31's with 4:30's and at 25mph it would over rev in 2nd
and lug in 3rd,so I just got done re-gearing to 4:10's and I can stay
in 2nd now.

 

[Motohead1]

Ive been driving it all week and have just about 350 miles on the first tank and its just bellow the half tank mark. Speedo is still not working so numbers are approximate. So far its a blast to drive at 27psi it will move and the low end torque is great. Tune needs to be tweaked at the part throttle a little bit. A gear change will help also. I bit the bullet and ordered 4.11s I hopefully can get that done in the next few weeks so I can fix the speedo.

I missed getting to the scrap yard by just a few minutes today. Wont get much for the 4.7 but the cats are worth somthing.

 

[Motohead1]

Finally got off work in time to make it to the scrap yard before they closed. It was close to 600lbs I would say 540 of it was the v8. When I pulled back onto the scale with a half tank of diesel and no front diff it was just over 4200lbs So when the front diff goes back in it will probably be right at 4350. Not bad Id say it lost close to 100lbs as last year I had it on the same scale dumping the blown rear axle and it was 4440 with the v8.

 

[jimbote]

nice swap and good looking truck ... ALH weighs around 375 dressed out iirc ... so you prob lost more than you think

 

[Motohead1]

nice swap and good looking truck ... ALH weighs around 375 dressed out iirc ... so you prob lost more than you think

It definitely feels like it lost more than 100lbs but it also moved the bulk of the weight further back in the engine bay compared to the V8.



Did my first fill up yesterday.

I filled it a quarter tank just to check my modified float arm to make sure its accurate.

Since I have no speedo yet I am estimating I drove right at 500 miles and filled it 19.1 gallons. So at 26mpg I am really happy as this tank had multiple WOT pulls for logging and quite a bit of idling. Once I get my part throttle fueling issue fixed it can only go up. Tuner should have that modified and back to me soon I would think.

 

[Motohead1]

Not to much to report other than it hauls no problem as that seems to be the question I have been getting the most lately. I have been moving some pavers for a project at the house at about 1000lbs at a time. 3 loads so far probably have 1 more to go. The ALH chugs right along.

Also got a vented cap.

Malone got the tune tweaked and I loaded that up and it has fixed my part throttle "boost drag". Interested to see the MPGs on this tank as its looking better already.

 

[Motohead1]

I finished up the exhaust . Its 2.5 inch all the way with 3 vbands and one butt joint for the tip. I couldn't weld the tip as it would have been near impossible to remove when needed.

I also filled tank #2 today with roughly 550 miles at 21.5 gallons. Not bad considering 75miles of that was hauling 1000 pounds in the bed.