Dodge Dakota Quad 4X4 ALH

[Motohead1]

The alternator is very similar to a one wire, it's got three terminals - one is for a charge light, the second is the 14v output, and I think the third is a status line for the ECU... I can confirm for you if you need.

Your right I found it in the bently. I will have to find out how the dodge pops the charge light to see if I need to tap into that pin.

 

[Motohead1]

Not much to report as bill paying work has me covered up right now so its mostly research mode on little stuff.

Did the chisel mod to the filler

Tank is out for mods. I am praying a 2000s 5.9 in tank setup will work and I will find out when it arrives.

Shifter back in it fits and seems to be plenty of room at its closest point here in 5th.

 

[xerootg]

What year did you go with for your fuel pump? There are two styles dodge used, one is a threaded ring (looks like yours is) and the other is a lock ring style. They switched to the lock ring style in 2004. I bought a "lift pump conversion" (68003865AB) for a 2001, and it needs to be shortened to fit into my Jeep tank. I'm planning on hacking the slide tubes shorter and reflairing the ends.

 

[Motohead1]

Fuel pump is a 1998-2004 screw on type like yours. The E7187M pump. I will most likely have to hack it up similarly.

 

[xerootg]

Do you know if the pump is supposed to be tight to the bottom of the tank, as in under spring tension? I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be tight, flush, or floating, so I haven't done mine yet.

 

[Motohead1]

Do you know if the pump is supposed to be tight to the bottom of the tank, as in under spring tension? I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be tight, flush, or floating, so I haven't done mine yet.

It should be tight as in pushing down with slight spring tension on the bottom of the tank. There are some tiny standoffs that keep it from being completely flush.

 

[Motohead1]

So I got the 2004 5.9 pump in and modded it.
Here is the gas pump verses diesel.

The wiring was easy as the pump and sender and connector where all the same save for the gas pump had a 12inch harness on it. So I cut the body side connector and added 12 inches of wire to it and wire loomed it back up. Looks and works like factory now.

It was way to tall so I cut over 3 inches off the rods and cut one of the springs in half. also shortened the float.

I think I will use the stock VW filter and make a mount out of the bracket that used to hold the charcoal canister. Better ideas lets here them.

The vent system is not to bad but I think I will weld a 1/4 hard line stub onto the filler neck and tie all three vents to it and install a vented gas cap. Does anyone see any issues with this? I cant think of any.

 

[greengeeker]

Do you not have room for that underhood?

 

[Motohead1]

Yes and no. The driver side underhood is getting crowded but I could fit it in there somewhere but most likely forward of the motor. So the shortest most direct route is to put the filter as shown in the pic on the driverside rail. There is room there and its one less thing in the engine bay.

 

[Motohead1]

Had the shop down the road cut the Dodge power steering line and put a swivel on the end then took the VW pump end and welded a JIC fitting to mate up. So power steering is done.

Fuel system is complete. Put a vent in the filler neck.

Tied all 3 vents together. and I will add a vented fuel cap.

Mounted the VW filter and hooked it all up. Dumped 5 gallons in the tank and turned the key (dodge does a 3 sec prime) and after about 5 tries had the whole system primed. Please ignore the big loops and no clamps as it will be a bit more tidy before it rolls out the garage.

Next is coolant system.

 

[Ranch]

nice PS hose conversion. Can that banjo fitting be sourced off-the-shelf for swap purposes? ie 'standard' banjo dimensions?

 

[Motohead1]

Im not sure the exact size but it has to be common as I have a drawer full of banjo bolts and hose ends that are the exact same size from 90s mitsu turbo cars I used to play with.

 

[Motohead1]

Aluminum tube finally showed up. 1 1/4 pipe. Just need to booger weld some beads on the ends.

 

[Motohead1]

PD150 intake installed. Had to take a little off the old AFN egr port to clear.

Exhaust and intercooler are next. Parts should be here next week.

 

[Motohead1]

Downpipe is done. This was easy as there is tons of room.

This was not so easy but it should work well. Map sensor will mount direct into the intake. I had to add an 1/8inch of material there to make it thick enough to capture the oring on the 3bar map. It looks ugly but thats as good as it gets on cast and no tig with me.

 

[Hasenwerk]

You might want to put some exhaust wrap on that to keep the heat away from the starter. Mine failed once, I put exhaust wrap on and no problems with the new one. I know that doesn't prove anything, but it does get pretty hot in there and exhaust wrap is cheap.

 

[Motohead1]

Yea I will wrap it or heat shield for sure down to the flex section.

 

[xjjeeper]

How did you wire the generic relay for the 109? I thought it wasn't possible

 

[Hasenwerk]

How did you wire the generic relay for the 109? I thought it wasn't possible

Relay 109 is just a "regular" relay with the pins in the wrong place.

30 - 12V Fused source
85 - ECU
86 - 12V (I route to 30)
87 - Output

 

[compu_85]

The filler neck looks nice. I'm not 100% sure, but I think VWs use vented caps. When people do the "ventectemy" they set the stock tank up like you have it now.

On the fuel pump, you can drive the relay with the VW ECU, use the output for the fuel cutoff solenoid. It even does the momentary run when you turn the key on but don't start

 

[Motohead1]

Put the Tcase and drive shaft back in tonight to see if I needed to make it longer. Looks like its only slide out an inch from stock. My concern though is the angle. If I get a vibration I will add a CV joint to the shaft but for now its functional.

My Ideal intercooler install is out front in front of the radiator but that would require reworking and spending a little more than I want to right now. So I opted for the Grand National route. I will fab a scoop up for it and it should do the job.

So apparently I have immobilizer version 3? I thought the tune could wipe that out but it cannot so ECU will be on its way to get that done. But I have plenty to do while I wait for the ECU to come back.

 

[Motohead1]

Tonight I got most of the plumbing figured out.

Ill probably get rid of that middle coupler on the outlet intercooler pipe and just weld it as one piece. Also need to make a bracket or 2 for the radiator pipes to stabilize them near the power steering pump.

 

[Hasenwerk]

I think your intercooler is in sideways... it needs cold air running over it to do it's job. Is there a scoop on the underside of it?

 

[1.9ZOOK]

.......

I will fab a scoop up for it and it should do the job.

 

[Motohead1]

Yea Ill probably use the stock plastic shroud and cut a spot open for core then bend up some sheet aluminum or stainless. So in that sense it will be a little better than Buick GN style.

 

[Motohead1]

So I got the ECU back Friday which was 3 days earlier than expected. Thanks to David at Fastforward.ca for getting it back to me so quickly!

I popped the ecu in and she fired right up and stayed running. Then I installed the race 520 injectors from DBW. After getting all the air out of the lines it was running once again. Only code is no cluster (Obviously) and glow plug relay as I have not wired them up yet.



I might have burned up my power steering pump as I forgot to top it off while it idled for a few minutes. Hopefully its ok. I will find out soon enough. I have a few things to button up before its ready to back out of the garage. I am shooting for next week for a shake down run. https://youtu.be/Ga5F4TFstZI

 

[1.9ZOOK]

Sounds good...

 

[Motohead1]

Ok can anyone tell me how the ECU triggers radiator fan control? is it based off the ECU coolant temp sensor? And at what temperature does it kick on?

Im trying to decide if I will want the ECU to control the fan or use a stand alone system.

 

[Hasenwerk]

Ok can anyone tell me how the ECU triggers radiator fan control? is it based off the ECU coolant temp sensor? And at what temperature does it kick on?

Im trying to decide if I will want the ECU to control the fan or use a stand alone system.

The ECU doesn't control when the fans come on. It has an override for that. You are best to use stand alone system.

 

[Motohead1]

So the fan control wire out of the ECM is for cutoff then. Thanks. I ordered an adjustable temp switch and will piggy back the ground pin of the dodge fan relay as it wont kick on till like somewhere above 212F or anytime the AC is on.

Hopefully I can get a shakedown run done tomorrow.