Nozzleman
Veteran Member
You might also pick up a Haynes manual. It has a great PCM wiring diagram and I found it much more useful than the Bentley.
Dodge Dakota Quad 4X4 ALH
- Thread starter Motohead1
- Start date
Nozzel is that a chevy NV3500 your using? I dont remember ford ever using them. I have talked to Hansenwerks and I will be using his cruise box for sure as the dodge uses a similar resistor setup as a ranger.
Nozzleman
Veteran Member
I am running a NV3550 out of a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I chose that because it allows me to start with a bigger clutch than the Ford 3.0 or 4.0 adapters allow.
I am starting with a Malone 4 tune and might go up from there.
I am starting with a Malone 4 tune and might go up from there.
Well I finally had a full day off and proceeded to get some things organized and pull the 4.7 out. I have some more dodge stuff to fix as I found a good chunk of cancer on the rad support. It bolts in so a trip to the junk yard should fix that. Next up is bolt up my adapter and see if it all fits correctly.
I found a deal on a new radiator support so I got that installed.
I also put the front pumpkin back in to check my clearance. I will also have to fabricate a bracket for it as the rear attach point was bolted to the stock v8 block.
Plenty of clearance for the starter. Ill have even more once I get it running and upgrade the turbo and probably use a BEW manifold.
4L jeep flywheel and clutch fit fine. Its a about a 1/2 inch smaller than the stock 4.7 clutch.
The NV3500 has a window on it that makes it easy to inspect when its bolted up. Pilot bearing is riding perfectly.
Bolted up looks like I am capturing 5 bolts on the trans. only 2 just under the dowels. This is the first run on this adapter if i am not mistaken. 5 should be enough but I we may have to make an adjustment since my front pumpkin will probably need a bracket made that is going to bolt to the bottom of the adapter. I wont know till I swing it in the truck to make motor mounts.
My 2 year old son helping me torque down the pressure plate.
I also put the front pumpkin back in to check my clearance. I will also have to fabricate a bracket for it as the rear attach point was bolted to the stock v8 block.
Plenty of clearance for the starter. Ill have even more once I get it running and upgrade the turbo and probably use a BEW manifold.
4L jeep flywheel and clutch fit fine. Its a about a 1/2 inch smaller than the stock 4.7 clutch.
The NV3500 has a window on it that makes it easy to inspect when its bolted up. Pilot bearing is riding perfectly.
Bolted up looks like I am capturing 5 bolts on the trans. only 2 just under the dowels. This is the first run on this adapter if i am not mistaken. 5 should be enough but I we may have to make an adjustment since my front pumpkin will probably need a bracket made that is going to bolt to the bottom of the adapter. I wont know till I swing it in the truck to make motor mounts.
My 2 year old son helping me torque down the pressure plate.
mobetta
Well-known member
as for the cam/crank sensor debacle-
when I did the 4bt durango swap I simply used a relay to jump the crank sender signal to the ecu cam wire only while key was at start. That was enough to get the ecu going 95%+ of the time. Rarley the tach would be dead , A quick off and restart would get it going.
For me, as long as the tach worked, the Cruise worked.
when I did the 4bt durango swap I simply used a relay to jump the crank sender signal to the ecu cam wire only while key was at start. That was enough to get the ecu going 95%+ of the time. Rarley the tach would be dead , A quick off and restart would get it going.
For me, as long as the tach worked, the Cruise worked.
Got a few hours to work on the truck today and got half of one thing done. There is no way the stock driverside mount will work so I tacked a rod in place to hold up the diff will I worked on the rear diff bracket.
After stabbing the motor I had to cut the bracket and will weld it after I build the motor mounts.
There is just over a 1/4 inch of room from the vac pump to the firewall. The insulation is touching.
My AC compressor delima is fixable as I will have to fab a mount up high it seems and maybe add an idler pulley. Unless there is a bracket that puts the accessory's in a different configuration? I will have to search around to see if there is. A quick search didn't show anything.
After stabbing the motor I had to cut the bracket and will weld it after I build the motor mounts.
There is just over a 1/4 inch of room from the vac pump to the firewall. The insulation is touching.
My AC compressor delima is fixable as I will have to fab a mount up high it seems and maybe add an idler pulley. Unless there is a bracket that puts the accessory's in a different configuration? I will have to search around to see if there is. A quick search didn't show anything.
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greengeeker
Vendor
Woah. Can you resize those pics please? Instead of copying the full size link, grab the medium size one.
Reddok
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- Location
- Hamilton, Ontario
- TDI
- '00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
Do yourself a favour and move the whole engine/trans forward at least an inch. You'll thank yourself if you ever have to remove the vacuum pump. I have 1/2" on my setup and it takes me over an hour to remove it every time - and I've had it out at least 5 times now.
I must have been tired when I posted those pics. Fixed now.
Here is a shot showing the pumpkin to trans mount before cutting. I moved the trans fwd about 2 inches.
Reddok I did slide it fwd about 3/4 inch today before I tacked up the pass side motor mount and trans to pumpkin mount. Basically slide it as far forward as the stock trans mount would allow. No reason I couldn't since I had to cut the pumpkin mount anyway. No pics today as I was in hurry to beat the cold.
Do these Vac pumps tent to go bad alot?
So next up is build the driver side mount. Its going to be a little more complicated. Not sure if I can cut the stock dodge mount and build off of it yet.
Here is a shot showing the pumpkin to trans mount before cutting. I moved the trans fwd about 2 inches.
Reddok I did slide it fwd about 3/4 inch today before I tacked up the pass side motor mount and trans to pumpkin mount. Basically slide it as far forward as the stock trans mount would allow. No reason I couldn't since I had to cut the pumpkin mount anyway. No pics today as I was in hurry to beat the cold.
Do these Vac pumps tent to go bad alot?
So next up is build the driver side mount. Its going to be a little more complicated. Not sure if I can cut the stock dodge mount and build off of it yet.
Here is the pass side mount completed.
Pumpkin aft brace completed
Installed
Pan clearance lots of room.
Pass side mount installed.
Cutting the divers side stock mount will actually work if you dont mind pulling the motor to change a bad alternator. Since I do mind I am waiting for a ford f150 hyd mount to show up so I can finish fabing the driverside.
Pumpkin aft brace completed
Installed
Pan clearance lots of room.
Pass side mount installed.
Cutting the divers side stock mount will actually work if you dont mind pulling the motor to change a bad alternator. Since I do mind I am waiting for a ford f150 hyd mount to show up so I can finish fabing the driverside.
One of the stranger looking mounts I have made but it works and gives me lots of room.
The only major fabrication left is the AC compressor mounting. Not sure what route I will go.
Is there a factory setup that put the AC on the right hand side of the ALH block?
The only major fabrication left is the AC compressor mounting. Not sure what route I will go.
Is there a factory setup that put the AC on the right hand side of the ALH block?
greengeeker
Vendor
No, they rarely fail. You do need to remove them to do the timing belt however.
The BHW (B5 Passat) mounts the compressor on the right hand side of the block.
Save
That may work if I go ahead and upgrade to a BHW/AFN manifold and turbo. I have never see a b5 setup in person but from the pics I have seen I the the AC belt on the crank pully is out in front? Do you know if I went with a BHW crank pully does the rear belt the runs the left side accessorys have the same rib count as an ALH?
Hasenwerk
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2003
- Location
- Quesnel, BC
- TDI
- 1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
The B5 1.8T Audi A4 and Passat will also surrender the correct AC compressor, bracket / pullet / belt setup to put it on the passenger side of the engine.
That is very helpful David thanks. Im much more likely to find a 1.8 gas in the yards than a Tdi. Hopefully I find one tomorrow. I did pick up a AFN manifold today so one less thing to find at least.
Pull a part had a few good donors for AC components and this is the victim.
I had to drill the one bolt hole in the bracket and cut off a little bit of the block of the ALH to get the AC bracket on.
Also trimmed the pass side mount.
There is 3/8 inch gap between the frame and I will only be able to use the rear and top compressor mount bolts as the bottom bolt is blocked by the frame. It should be fine as the boss is doweled.
I could not find a way to tension the other belt without some time consuming fabrication so I put the stock compressor back in place if nothing more than simplify the belt routeing. Its less that an 1/8 inch away from the motor mount with no hoses on it. There might be a way to actually use the stock compressor though as I am researching to see if I can switch the stock head out for a sanden JB or CD head as both are much thinner and the ports are vertical. Anyone ever use a different head on the stock SD7V16?
Next up is turbo shopping. I am thinking a BV43a if I can find it for the right price
I had to drill the one bolt hole in the bracket and cut off a little bit of the block of the ALH to get the AC bracket on.
Also trimmed the pass side mount.
There is 3/8 inch gap between the frame and I will only be able to use the rear and top compressor mount bolts as the bottom bolt is blocked by the frame. It should be fine as the boss is doweled.
I could not find a way to tension the other belt without some time consuming fabrication so I put the stock compressor back in place if nothing more than simplify the belt routeing. Its less that an 1/8 inch away from the motor mount with no hoses on it. There might be a way to actually use the stock compressor though as I am researching to see if I can switch the stock head out for a sanden JB or CD head as both are much thinner and the ports are vertical. Anyone ever use a different head on the stock SD7V16?
Next up is turbo shopping. I am thinking a BV43a if I can find it for the right price
I looked into this, looks like the variable displacement versions of the SD7 use a special bolt pattern on the head. I have one disassembled on the floor of my garage if you need pictures. I am working with a SD7 off a heavy truck for my swap, it has the same ear to ear spacing as the VW pump, but the drive pulley has a significantly different pump to first groove spacing. For my swap I will be significantly modifying a sock alternator bracket to move the compressor forward.
I also had the idea of moving the VW pulley to another SD7, but the drive shaft of the VW SD7 is also unique. Apparently some SD7's are internally balanced and others are externally, then there's some that use a keyway and others that are a press fit.
Its safe to assume the VW SD7 is a unique design compared to other SD7 models. They even have a different displacement than the non-variable models.
Its my understanding (at this point) that as long as its a SD7v head it will work. I am trying to find dimensions but I think a VPK head could work if need be. It has the ports vertical to the 11 oclock position. But with that said i think the right side AC bracket will work perfect for my setup as it will be short runs for the hoses and since I have the hose heads of all the connections it will only cost $60 to make lines. I will still see if I can find a VPK head just to see if it will fit. Maby if I disable the variable displacement I can use it as an air compressor or something.
So this ALH was from an automatic so I think that means I have 2 extra water pipe outlets for the trans cooler? I dont need this many outlets so I will cover or plug a few.
Also I couldn't find the Part number for the 2 connector coolant flange so I cut my stock auto one and plugged it.
Pic of the starter clearance needed on the trans.
Got a VCDS cable now so goal this weekend is get it wired up enough to talk to the ecu.
Also I couldn't find the Part number for the 2 connector coolant flange so I cut my stock auto one and plugged it.
Pic of the starter clearance needed on the trans.
Got a VCDS cable now so goal this weekend is get it wired up enough to talk to the ecu.
Its in the garage now by like a half inch. This really shows how far back the motor sits also.
There is always coolant flowing through the heater core so I went outlet pipe to oil cooler to heater core to inlet pipe using most of the stock hoses off the ALH.
There is always coolant flowing through the heater core so I went outlet pipe to oil cooler to heater core to inlet pipe using most of the stock hoses off the ALH.
Reddok
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- Location
- Hamilton, Ontario
- TDI
- '00 Jetta TDI 01M, '02 Jeep Liberty Renegade ALH TDI swap
Nice! Are you going to run a BHW manifold with it? Or something else?
I ended up using generic relays instead of the VW stuff as they are cheap and easy to find. I cut the relay rack up to hold my power supply (109) relay and a few fuses. Ill end up sliding a few more relays in there and it will live under the dodge underhood fuse box.
Got VCDS talking to the ecu. I need to find out how to kill the immobilizer. I am gonna use a malone tune but would be nice to fire it up before.
Got VCDS talking to the ecu. I need to find out how to kill the immobilizer. I am gonna use a malone tune but would be nice to fire it up before.
Turbo is mounted so is oil feed and drains.
Made a 2awg starter wire and finished all the hot wires.
Anyone know if i need to run the small alternator plug to the ecu to control the alternator or is it like a GM one wire?
Made a 2awg starter wire and finished all the hot wires.
Anyone know if i need to run the small alternator plug to the ecu to control the alternator or is it like a GM one wire?
The alternator is very similar to a one wire, it's got three terminals - one is for a charge light, the second is the 14v output, and I think the third is a status line for the ECU... I can confirm for you if you need.