Do I need the Brake/Clutch switches?

TDIJ

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Location
Durango, CO
TDI
AHU Wrangler
I've done a lot of searching... and have found mixed results on this subject, and no real discussion strictly on this subject.

Swap in question is a 98 ahu into my wrangler.

I know to run cruise control I will need them, but without cruise control do I actually need any of the brake or clutch switches?

I'm under the impression codes will be thrown without some/all of these... but will it effect the operation of the engine at all?
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
on the ALH if a brake switch signal is not present you can have dead pedal condition...where the ecm will default to no fuel....I had this numerous times until I included a brake pedal signal .....if you want cruise you will need a clutch cancel switch
 

TDIJ

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Location
Durango, CO
TDI
AHU Wrangler
on the ALH if a brake switch signal is not present you can have dead pedal condition...where the ecm will default to no fuel....I had this numerous times until I included a brake pedal signal .....if you want cruise you will need a clutch cancel switch
Thanks Jimbote... Most of the brake sensor discussions I have found have revolved around the ALH, and I have gathered that you need to use it/them for the ALH... I'm just not sure how it will apply to the AHU operation.

I'm unsure if it will cause an unresponsive pedal, or an underpowered limp mode, or no effect whatsoever on the AHU.
 

JFettig

Vendor
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Location
Blaine, MN
TDI
B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
Some tuners can remove that. I can hit the brake and go-pedal at the same time, it'll still go. Malone set me up this way.
 
Last edited:

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
Arcata, CA
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab, '13 Jetta Wagon
TDIJ,

On the 1Z in my Toyota, I have a condition where I step on the gas and at approximately 1200 rpms the pedal goes dead. A quick lift of the foot off the pedal and then back on the gas and I have a normal gas pedal. Jimbote (who noted this) and others can probably expound on this - and perhaps it is not the same on the AHU, though I would expect that it is. I think that there needs to be 12V to the brake pedal switch in order to eliminate this little inconvenience. It is brake system safety feature (and a cool one, really, that would alert you to problems with your brakes in the MKIII) I have learned to live with and may fix sometime ... before year's end :D

Cool project, I'll keep checking in. Good luck. Oh, what kind of hydraulic motor mounts are you using?
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
Arcata, CA
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab, '13 Jetta Wagon
TDIJ,

On the 1Z in my Toyota, I have a condition where I step on the gas and at approximately 1200 rpms the pedal goes dead. A quick lift of the foot off the pedal and then back on the gas and I have a normal gas pedal. Jimbote (who noted this) and others can probably expound on this - and perhaps it is not the same on the AHU, though I would expect that it is. I think that there needs to be 12V to the brake pedal switch in order to eliminate this little inconvenience. It is a brake system safety feature (and a cool one, really, that would alert you to problems with your brakes in the MKIII). I have learned to live with it and may fix it ... sometime ... before year's end :D

Cool project, I'll keep checking in. Good luck. Oh, what kind of hydraulic motor mounts are you using?
 

TDIJ

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Location
Durango, CO
TDI
AHU Wrangler
TDIJ,

On the 1Z in my Toyota, I have a condition where I step on the gas and at approximately 1200 rpms the pedal goes dead. A quick lift of the foot off the pedal and then back on the gas and I have a normal gas pedal. Jimbote (who noted this) and others can probably expound on this - and perhaps it is not the same on the AHU, though I would expect that it is. I think that there needs to be 12V to the brake pedal switch in order to eliminate this little inconvenience. It is brake system safety feature (and a cool one, really, that would alert you to problems with your brakes in the MKIII) I have learned to live with and may fix sometime ... before year's end :D

Cool project, I'll keep checking in. Good luck. Oh, what kind of hydraulic motor mounts are you using?
Thanks... that tells me something, if your 1z has issues I'm sure my ahu will be similar.

Thanks... it's been fun so far... really want to start driving it though.

Hydraulic?! who needs hydraulic? I am actually using poly at the moment... I'm sure that will change down the road. It came down to the time to put the engine in and I had them in hand, and wasn't finding anything I really liked out there. I decided to just go with it and see how terrible the vibes are first hand. It's for a crawler so smooth isn't exactly the main goal in the build however I do intend to DD it so it still has to be reasonable. I'm really looking forward to seeing how bad the vibes are!
 
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