DMF replacement?

[J-Amuro]

Hey there Guys & Gals. I am new to VW cars and especially TDI motors and I need some help.

So I have a 2013 Jetta TDI with the 6 speed DSG

Today I got into my car to do a little messing around with my VCDS (comfort blinker count & windows auto down/up with key fob) and after finishing up, I started the car and noticed a little rattling near/in the transmission... from my understanding it could be the DMF. From what I have researched the DMF will rattle when it starts to go out...


When sitting in the car I can kind of feel a vibration when I hear the noise, and it does go away when the throttle is pressed. I tried asking on Facebook to see if it was I fact the DMF that is making that noise but l'm not getting a clear answer. But it seems like that’s where my research is leading me.

This is the first time I have ever noticed this noise. But my worry is that I don't want to wait to replace the DMF if it will damage the transmission. I have plans to do the timing belt and DSG fluid soon. But if I need to do the DMF I feel like I should do it with both of those services because a ton of stuff will already be out of the way... I believe? Or should I do this first?

I have about 10 years of working on cars behind me and I am pretty mechanical inclined. So I'm sure I would be able to do this but I want to make sure that this is what needs to be done.

I have a video with the sound I’m hearing but I’m not sure if I can add it to this post or not.

 

[Nuje]

They're on opposite ends of the engine, so TB and DSG really don't have a lot of overlap in terms of removing one / both.
And even the DSG fluid change....about all you're saving is removing the battery and airbox to get at the filter - like <10minutes.

Typically the first sign of rattling DMF isn't it being on its last legs, but rather, something to plan for in the not-too-distant future. I've had friends drive 10s of thousands of km with rattling DSG - not saying that you should, but rather, just saying it's not a "park the car until it's addressed" kinda thing.

 

[J-Amuro]

They're on opposite ends of the engine, so TB and DSG really don't have a lot of overlap in terms of removing one / both.
And even the DSG fluid change....about all you're saving is removing the battery and airbox to get at the filter - like <10minutes.

Typically the first sign of rattling DMF isn't it being on its last legs, but rather, something to plan for in the not-too-distant future. I've had friends drive 10s of thousands of km with rattling DSG - not saying that you should, but rather, just saying it's not a "park the car until it's addressed" kinda thing.

Okay thank you! That’s very helpful. Is there any upgrades or well known replacements that I should start looking into? I saw FCP Euro has a $520 OEM one and a $1000+ Genuine VAG DMF.

I’m not like super strapped for cash, but I would also like to not drop $1000 if I I can help it. With the timing belt kit and DSG fluid already adding up to almost $500

 

[Nuje]

You're in Oregon, so I'd give CascadeGerman a look (located in Gresham).
Good prices, good people, quality products.

Flywheel, CBEA CJAA CKRA CRUA CVCA Common Rail TDI DSG – Cascade German Parts

www.cascadegerman.com

 

[J-Amuro]

You're in Oregon, so I'd give CascadeGerman a look (located in Gresham).
Good prices, good people, quality products.

Flywheel, CBEA CJAA CKRA CRUA CVCA Common Rail TDI DSG – Cascade German Parts

www.cascadegerman.com

Thank you! Is there anything else that needs to be replaced with the DMF? I’m not 100% sure how the DSG works really but no other parts I should replace while I dig into it?

 

[Nuje]

Not that I can think of off-hand. You need the bolts to mount the flywheel to the crank, but the kit should come with that. Same with the pilot bearing.
Maybe take a look at your mounts (engine on RH side, transmission on LH side, and pendulum). Depending on mileage, they could be do (edit - ouch!) due for an update - and all three of those come out when do the TB (engine mount) and DMF swap (the other two). So - as good a time as any to get 'em done.

 

[J-Amuro]

Not that I can think of off-hand. You need the bolts to mount the flywheel to the crank, but the kit should come with that. Same with the pilot bearing.
Maybe take a look at your mounts (engine on RH side, transmission on LH side, and pendulum). Depending on mileage, they could be do for an update - and all three of those come out when do the TB (engine mount) and DMF swap (the other two). So - as good a time as any to get 'em done.

I called and talked to them today, they had great input. Since I’ll be in there I’m going to do the clutch packs too. Peace of mind. And I’ll ask about motor mounts too.
Again thank you so much

 

[GBaugh]

2012 VW Passat 2.0L TDI, DSG
I think you're on the right track with replacing DMF and I think you have the right idea as far as priority. Better sooner than never but you can wait until you have a good opportunity for scheduling the downtime. Mine starting making tapping/clicking noise coming from flywheel area at about 117,000. It was only really noticeable in park and most noticeable when it was cold. I also bought mine from Cascade German in OR. I've since put about 13,000 miles on my new DMF with good results. When I did my repair, I also replaced rear crank main seal as preventative maint along with resealing oil pan. Using special installer tool to install main seal was critical because there is engine speed sensor rotor integrated into rear main seal that needs to be positioned/timed accurately. Many of the engine mount bolts are one time use with torque to yield values. For DSG trans removal, it was necessary to shift engine forward, as described in svc literature, in order to get sufficient clearance for lowering trans. The scissor jack supplied with car worked for swinging eng forward. I did remove cooling fan to get enough engine forward swing.

 

[privateTDIjet]

2012 VW Passat 2.0L TDI, DSG
I think you're on the right track with replacing DMF and I think you have the right idea as far as priority. Better sooner than never but you can wait until you have a good opportunity for scheduling the downtime. Mine starting making tapping/clicking noise coming from flywheel area at about 117,000. It was only really noticeable in park and most noticeable when it was cold. I also bought mine from Cascade German in OR. I've since put about 13,000 miles on my new DMF with good results. When I did my repair, I also replaced rear crank main seal as preventative maint along with resealing oil pan. Using special installer tool to install main seal was critical because there is engine speed sensor rotor integrated into rear main seal that needs to be positioned/timed accurately. Many of the engine mount bolts are one time use with torque to yield values. For DSG trans removal, it was necessary to shift engine forward, as described in svc literature, in order to get sufficient clearance for lowering trans. The scissor jack supplied with car worked for swinging eng forward. I did remove cooling fan to get enough engine forward swing.

How much did you pay for that special tool?

 

[GBaugh]

I got the rear main seal installer VW tool T10134 from IDParts.com for $150. Part # IDP4834. I also got a flywheel holding tool T10044 from there for torquing the flywheel bolts. IDP4385, $30

 

[Greg Hussey]

Hi. I am replacing my Rear Main Seal now (2006 brm 1.9) I bought a tool from Amazon for the job. I can't get the spacing between the speed sensor and the end of the crank to 0.5mm as suggested. I can only make them flush to the crank ? any ideas what that 0.5mm is for?
Thanks
Greg

 

[GBaugh]

Greg, I reviewed the seal installation procedure in my factory manual for my CKRB TDI to refresh my memory. The critical factor that affects sender wheel installation position is the torque applied to the tool's spindle nut. On first press attempt, initially torque tool to 35 N-m. Check for 0.5mm. If clearance is too small, reattach tool to repress and torque nut to 40 N-m. Check for 0.5mm. If still too small, repress and torque to 45 N-m. I don't know what tool you're using but the quality of the tool could affect the correlation between nut torque and installation position. If for some reason your tool's spindle threads aren't machined optimally, thread friction could increase, requiring more torque applied to nut to achieve desired position.
Also, my tool had two guide pins in center portion. Black knob guide pin is for diesel engine while red knob is for gas engine. I don't think tool's guide pin selection would affect installation depth but probably more for rotational alignment of sender wheel for correct timing, but something to keep in mind. I think the reasoning for the 0.5mm is to align the sensor wheel depth with the sensor mounting position. I'll be curious to see if someone else has a better answer. Hard to tell what those good ole German engineers are thinking sometimes.

 

[Greg Hussey]

Thanks for your insight. My tool comes from Amazon. It looks like the VW tool, at least from what I can see on YouTube. I have torqued up to 40 lbs with no change to the clearance. Flush to the end of the crank was all I could get. I used the old sensor ring as a aid to press the new ring in further but went to far, 1.4mm. Mine is a diesel and I used the black locator pin. I believe it is aligned to TDC but pressed in to far now. These seals are expensive up here in Canada and will become more so very soon, sounds like. Any Ideas how to pull he ring back to proper clearance?
Thanks
Greg