DMF Failure? How long can I go?

croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
Hey everybody, first poster here

About a month ago, I bought a 2013 Passat TDI SEL. Used of course, VW buyback car, one owner before me since the buyback, 99k miles.

A week after bringing the car home, I started noticing a rattling noise at idle. Looked it up and after watching videos of the noise a failing DMF makes, I'm confident this is the issue I'm having with mine. My question is, how long can I milk it along before I run into serious (and expensive) trouble? I drive about 50 total miles every day, and in two weeks or so will drive 40 miles twice a week for school. Right now, the car shifts and drives absolutely fine, and I only hear the noise at idle. Revving the car up in park causes the noise to go away, and then I hear it again when I let my foot off the accelerator. Again, no rattling noise coming from the DMF in drive or reverse. Also, when I shut the car off, I can hear it rattle as the engine stops. It's pretty loud, definitely audible inside the cabin with the radio at a low volume and heat on.

I'm not afraid to replace it myself, but something doesn't sit right with me tearing apart the first car I've ever financed (I'm only 22 years old, haven't even graduated college yet). How much have you guys paid to get your DMFs replaced on these NMS Passats?
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2004 Jetta wagon BEW; 2015 Passat SE CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA
If you have done a clutch before, you can do this job. I don't need a clutch/DMF right now, but I already looked into it and this is probably the best solution cost-wise:

* LuK DMF123
* Luk 02-057 clutch kit

Other than this...if I remember well...single use bolts for left side motor mount, and dog bone mount. A good selection of metric sockets, triple square bits, and perhaps a flywheel lock, if you don't want to struggle finding a way to hold it while trying to torque the bolts (big ones in the middle).

You got this!
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis (where it's safe)
TDI
There are just too many to list....
They can get pretty bad, but remember that when the rattling is happening, the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft are both moving back and forth in relation to each other RPM-wise, which means the pilot bearing is slowly being beaten to death, and the splines on the input shaft and flywheel itself are slowly being beaten up as well. Sooner you can get it taken care of the better, but it probably isn't *that* bad yet (I hear oodles of these cars all the time).

We charge 6 hours labor to R&R all the FWD transverse VAG gearboxes. I've done so many 02E DSG R&Rs I could do them blindfolded.

The CKRA uses this DMF:

03L-105-266-DE (VAG number)

4150744090 (Luk number)

pedroYUL's number is not correct. And you won't need a clutch kit unless you let it go to the point the splines strip out and ruins the input shaft (which is part of the clutch kit).
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2004 Jetta wagon BEW; 2015 Passat SE CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA
Well, I got that DMF123 from LuK in a reply to an Amazon question, but searching the Luk part number you referenced it came back with:


...seems like an Auto DMF
 

croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
Thanks for the reply! Lots of good information there, appreciate it.

The CKRA uses this DMF:

03L-105-266-DE (VAG number)

4150744090 (Luk number)
Searching the Luk number takes me to the thread that pedroYUL posted. Guy in that thread says that Luk p/n is for a DSG with automatic start stop, which mine does not have...other threads say DMF126 (not DMF123 like pedroYUL said) is the correct part number. Would you know more about this, or is somebody misinformed?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis (where it's safe)
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I just looked it up myself in ETKA. They only show the one DMF for 02E equipped CKRA cars like yours. And that crosses to the Luk number provided (Luk is who makes them for Volkswagen). And Worldpac shows the same exact thing, and they have one on the shelf.
 

croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
I just looked it up myself in ETKA. They only show the one DMF for 02E equipped CKRA cars like yours. And that crosses to the Luk number provided (Luk is who makes them for Volkswagen). And Worldpac shows the same exact thing, and they have one on the shelf.
Thanks for all the help! Good community you guys have here
 

croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
We charge 6 hours labor to R&R all the FWD transverse VAG gearboxes. I've done so many 02E DSG R&Rs I could do them blindfolded.
Hey @oilhammer , going to do my DMF on my 2013 passat TDI with the DSG this coming weekend. Since you've done so many and this is my first, do you have any tips/tricks to offer? Maybe a service procedure floating around somewhere that I haven't found yet? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information on whether I have to actually drop the subframe or not. I have access to a lift if I need it, but watching this guy do it on his back gives me some confidence that I can do it in my shop where I know where everything is and not have to worry about borrowing somebody else's tools/losing something/making a mess, etc. If I use the lift, I'll probably still end up on my back because I don't have access to a tall transmission jack. Not really wanting to completely bench press a DSG, lol

I'm bought a pilot bearing to replace as well. Can I just use a regular pilot bearing puller to remove the existing one, or is there a special VAG tool for this?
 

d2freeman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Location
NC
TDI
2013 Passat SE
Hey @oilhammer , going to do my DMF on my 2013 passat TDI with the DSG this coming weekend. Since you've done so many and this is my first, do you have any tips/tricks to offer? Maybe a service procedure floating around somewhere that I haven't found yet? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information on whether I have to actually drop the subframe or not. I have access to a lift if I need it, but watching this guy do it on his back gives me some confidence that I can do it in my shop where I know where everything is and not have to worry about borrowing somebody else's tools/losing something/making a mess, etc. If I use the lift, I'll probably still end up on my back because I don't have access to a tall transmission jack. Not really wanting to completely bench press a DSG, lol

I'm bought a pilot bearing to replace as well. Can I just use a regular pilot bearing puller to remove the existing one, or is there a special VAG tool for this?
LOL, I've been watching that guy too, but notice he never does any DSG's maybe due to them weighing close to 300 lbs?
My 13 is at 330k miles all original, I am thinking about changing mine just because eventually it will fail and I will probably be in the middle of nowhere, My local dealer quoted 2K for the job $950 for the flywheel and around $1200 labor (8 Hrs).
Oil Hammer, Thanks for the part Number, I can get that flywheel for around $450.

Keep us updated on how the job goes, I plan on doing mine myself also, I did the DPF myself and figure this can't be that much more difficult, probably have to buy another jack though.
 
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croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
Keep us updated on how the job goes, I plan on doing mine myself also, I did the DPF myself and figure this can't be that much more difficult, probably have to buy another jack though.
I'm planning on taking lots of pictures, as long as I remember to. I've noticed there are lots of writeups on many procedures, but I haven't found one on a DMF in a newer passat yet. I'll make one if my pictures are adequate :)
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis (where it's safe)
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I have been doing this professionally since before there were TDIs, let alone DSGs. So truthfully, I've never had the displeasure of having to do it withOUT a lift. Sure, you could do it without one, but I won't.

I take the entire subframe assembly out. Steering rack, sway bar, control arms, one big chunk... which is relatively easy thanks to two key reasons: One, VAG has stupid easy access to the steering pinion INSIDE the car, where it is clean and never rusty, and it is keyed so it only goes on one way. And two, that car has electric power steering, so the rack removal is simply disconnecting the ground wire, the power wire, and the communications connector all located up near the air cleaner area, and feeding the steering subharness out with the subframe assembly. Just so darn easy, and zero mess.

I remove the sway bar links' upper connection at the strut. *Usually* a quick hit with the impact zips them off, but if not it at least loosens them and then you can back the locknut off with a wrench while holding the ball stud with the provided XZN bit in the middle. In extreme cases, usually rust belt cars, I have to cut them off and replace them.

Similar procedure for the steering end links into the carrier, although those usually allow the nuts to zip off and then a quick smack with a sledge and the ball stud's conical wedge pops off.

I leave the axles attached in the carriers, just unbolt them from the gearbox and swing them back and bungee them to the lift arms.





I've had a LOT of 02Es out. Many due to the wonderful EA888 VAG gas engine and blown rear main seals, and a few from folks who don't understand the importance of proper parking brake use.
 

d2freeman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Location
NC
TDI
2013 Passat SE
So you can access the steering rack cables from the top? That would make things much simpler, when I did the DPF I dropped the subframe completely out as well but I unbolted the rack from the subframe and left the steering rack in the car and held up with bungee cables. The hardest part was getting the rack bolted back to the subframe with it on top of a jack.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis (where it's safe)
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Yes, the steering harness comes up and into the holder under the battery tray, runs forward. It is its own little harness. Boy you fought the DPF with the rack in the way???? Yikes!
 

740GLE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
NH
TDI
2015 Passat SEL, 2017 Alltrack SE; BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat,
but what if i want to let the car roll back 4 feet and catch on the pawl?

that's the best part of owning a DSG!!!!
 

croach13

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Linton, Indiana
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL
I take the entire subframe assembly out.
THANK YOU, oilhammer for the tips. Started working on pulling the transmission yesterday at 1pm, by 10pm the new DMF and transmission was back in. It was much much easier than I thought it was going to be. Now that I've done it once I could probably have the transmission out in 2 hours.

Put the rest of the car back together this morning and took it for a drive. On the drive, as soon as I pulled out of my driveway the car was pouring white smoke out of the exhaust that smelled like oil. Stopped at the nearest point I could and the smoke was still pouring out while sitting there idling. Turned around to go back home and shut the car off and checked the oil. It was a little low so I added some and fired the car up again. It was smoking a little less, so I took it for another test drive and the more I drove it the less it smoked. Now there's something dripping out of the exhaust tip that has the consistency of fuel but really no smell. Any ideas or something to check that would cause this after pulling the transmission? I didn't touch anything engine wise at all during the process
 

d2freeman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Location
NC
TDI
2013 Passat SE
Did my DMF yesterday, car has 350k miles and the last several weeks I have been hearing a clicking noise when in park, put in drive or reverse and the noise went away. So I got everything ordered and waited for a long week-end.
Got the DMF from Rockauto for $334 (LUK part DMF-126), and came with the pilot bearing, Bolts were $16.
Got a transmission jack from Harbor Freight on sale for $135.
Decided to drop the subframe to have more room and to check the control arm bushings (still fine).
Oil Hammer is correct, the wiring for the steering rack are just under the battery box, 1 power wire from the fuse block, a ground wire and a single connector for the control wires.
Went better than expected, definitively need a trans jack for this when doing by yourself, also had to get a blind bearing puller, found one at Harbor Freight, unfortunately it was not on sale, but $78 was not too bad and it worked great.
Dealer quoted $2450 with an alignment. My total is $760 including new subframe bolts and an alignment.
Also no more clicking noise in park.
 
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