- Jun 25, 2006
- Omaha NEEEBRASKA
- 2011 Golf TDI 6MT, 2011 Jetta TDI DSG, 2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI DSG
You don't need VAGCOM for the DSG service. Warm up your engine/transmission. Drain, refill, done. It's really that simple.
IMHO... that whole thing about the transmission temperature being exactly XX degrees is bunk!
As far as owning a VAGCOM, I definitely recommend getting one. They are useful for clearing codes, reseting the Service Interval/Reminder, checking the DPF, and a host of other features. I bit the bullet about 4 months after I bought my car and I'm glad I did.
I'm just going to say, the tranny is quite expensive to replace and the VAGCOM is unbelievably handy for all things dealing with our cars. Believe what you want and of course, do what you want but I'd advise anyone that asked me personally to a) follow procedures prescribed by VW which closely matches the methods tried and trued by many members here and b) buy VAGCOM = Happy and worry free (well, as worry free as we can be with the CR motor )I am getting ready to perform this service, and I pretty much agree with the quote below. I can hardly believe that the temperature would change the volume of the oil enough to make a darn bit of difference. Shifting through the gears, however, would, and possible the increased viscosity would help it work into areas that it wouldn't if it was cold.
So two questions: Do you put it in "manual" mode and shift 1-6 gears or just the N, D, and S positions? How long (approximately) does it take for the tranny to warm up to the proper temperature? 5 min? 10, 15?
This is so I don't have to buy a VAGCOM.
I'm just going to say, the tranny is quite expensive to replace and the VAGCOM is unbelievably handy for all things dealing with our cars. Believe what you want and of course, do what you want but I'd advise anyone that asked me personally to a) follow procedures prescribed by VW which closely matches the methods tried and trued by many members here and b) buy VAGCOM = Happy and worry free (well, as worry free as we can be with the CR motor )
Just my 2c and welcoming to the club!
You (nor can I) can't know for sure, too many variables BUT if you drive the car and it's at operating temps and you pull in, get on stands, do fluid change right away, maybe 5min tops BUT what temp are you working in will dictate how quickly the car/tranny cools. Depending on the temp of the area you are working in, the tranny temp can be where it needs to be without even running, you just don't know unless, well, you know.Thanks for the advice, but I'll take my chances this time. The following is not me trying to be a smart a$$, just telling how I justified to myself. You're probably right, I'll end up buying a VAGCOM for another reason in the future, but maybe not.
If you figure an over estimated expansion coefficient of 0.0005, on 5 liters, thats about 125ml volume change if you had a temperature error of 50 degrees F (another over estimate). 125 ml is less than 5 oz. I think there will be more error in other areas of the fill rather than just the temperature.
But, like I said, I still want a rough idea of how long I should run it before letting excess run off over the snorkel thing.
if you want an educated guess. let us know where you will do the service, we could help with a guess.
do you have to drive there, will you be inside, or outside? how will you get it elevated and level?
How will you get clearance to the underside of the car and keep it level? (or are you a skinny acrobat?)Doing it this Friday or Saturday, it will be in the high 50's, outside, the most level part of my yard by the shed, and will be after I get home from work, a 60 mile drive, so it will be at operating temperature. 5 minutes to get changed from work clothes. I'll put the new tranny oil by a heat vent in the house so it will be warm before I fill.
How will you get clearance to the underside of the car and keep it level? (or are you a skinny acrobat?)
My guess is with those conditions, after drain, fill and filter change, start, and run through each gear (p, r, n, d s) (count to six or so in each gear)
leave running in P and should be good to go. (I would guess you will be at low end of temp range pretty quick, esp if you warm the fluid first)
again, this is just a guess.
if the case feels hot to the touch, wait a bit more before you start.
I did my first change on a lift in the summer, and fluid was already at the high end when I started the car. next time, i changed oil and air filter as well as empty the DSG, and enough time had passed (in the 60s or so as I recall, but inside a building) to be at the low end of the range within a few minutes of starting.
remember it takes a bit to crawl back under the car, check drain pan location and pull hose to drain the overflow, and the DSG fluid continues to warm during this time with the engine running.
Is this a normal step in this process?I did the service this last Saturday and first of all, it's pretty easy.
Took out the battery and airbox, then accessed the DSG filter, then climbed underneath and removed the dirt shield/air flow cover, then pulled plug and snorkel. Fluid looked extremely clean btw.
People mentioned it taking forever for you to fill from the top of the tranny. I had no issue; I put the bottle on the tube then put a hole with a knife in the bottom of the quart container and it drained into the tranny in about a minute each quart. Also had the oil sitting in a hot water bath while I was prepping to fill so it flowed easier.
started the car, shifted through gears, and let running for about 15 minutes. Pulled the plug again and drained until it was a slow stream then plugged back up.
Running perfectly after a couple hundred miles. I don't think I'll change that fluid for another 50K or so miles.
Couple of additional notes: when I pulled the plug, maybe a 1/2 liter of fluid came out before the snorkel was removed. I guess the factory had put extra in it. when I drained it after running with new fluid, about a 1/2 liter fluid came out, so about 4.5L is all you need, but it makes sense to overfill and let it drain the excess. Lastly, make sure you have it on level ground, and elevate it level when you drain/fill it.
I also did the fuel filter. Like I read on here, if you completely empty the fuel filter compartment and clean it out, it will take some cranking to start because it has to fill the filter compartment. But after a minute or two of cranking, it fired right up. I found very few small pieces of dirt. In general, I was very impressed with how clean the fluids/filters were. This is coming from someone though, who is used to draining gray differential fluid from a jeep because he drove it too deep in a mud hole.
Off-topic, but...dellaware: sounds like you didn't refill the FF canister with clean diesel before installing the FF. Is that so? When I've refilled the canister, car starts completely normal, zero delay or extra cranking.
Next time, probably best to fill the canister. (This has been discussed extensively, not trying to re-open the discussion!)