Did my 40k fuel filter today

[Softrockrenegade]

And it couldn't be easier. Went the low tech way , drained canister wiped clean and refilled with power service because I didn't have any diesel at home. The screws are very obvious when they are tight and I decided not to bother with the torque wrench. Started right up just like normal plus there was no mess and I saved a bunch of cash . Overall this is a very easy DIY service and IMO easier than changing the oil.

 

[PassatSE4me]

Glad to hear it went smoothly. Maybe your post will encourage others that might be afraid to try it give it a go.

And yeah, a torque wrench is a bit of overkill on something like that. If you don't know when to stop turning the wrench, you probably shouldn't be turning it in the first place.

 

[pparks1]

Thanks for posting. That's exactly what I plan to do with my car for my fuel filter changes. Seems straight forward.

 

[dzcad90]

Yeah. The fuel filter change is pretty easy. Be prepared to spill a little diesel. Some old shop rags or paper towels and a turkey baster reserved just for this purpose will serve you well.

I think my dealer quoted $80 to change the fuel filter when I asked just for grins.

 

[Revpeach]

I had the dealer do my 20K filter change and had to take it back because of a leaking filter housing. I did my own at 40K and you're right, its an easy process.

 

[Bug Smasher]

Did you use VCDS for purging the air out of the system before firing up the engine?

 

[Softrockrenegade]

No vcds. Went low tech and just filled the canister with power service and it started on one crank as always. Seems to me some have more trouble starting(longer cranking time) when priming with vcds. IMO if the canister is filled up then closed it's the same as before opened. From my experience it didn't lose it's prime from just replacing the FF.

 

[FormerOwner]

So i was right when i made this point over 6 months ago!

 

[Softrockrenegade]

I would have to agree formerowner. Besides anyone who is using the trouble free maintenance is getting just this(if they even clean an refill the canister)

 

[FormerOwner]

I agree Soft... I watched the tech's do it to my ride during said period! Yet, I was poo-poo'd by the "experts".

 

[Bug Smasher]

OK, for the future, I think I'll combine the two methods. I'll fill the canister up with diesel and activate the pump for 30 seconds. Can't go wrong this way!

 

[FormerOwner]

Just switch the key to "on" & then "off" 3 consecutive times and then you'll be fine... I've said this before.

 

[vw_norm]

Just switch the key to "on" & then "off" 3 consecutive times and then you'll be fine... I've said this before.

This will not prime the fuel filter housing on our cars. There is a routine in the engine block with vagcom to run the in-tank pump and prime the housing. If not, you'll get prolonged cranks while the fuel system purges. This is the correct way, although simply cranking will get 'er done......

Open the engine controller, select 04 - Basic settings, and select "Transfer Fuel Pump (FP) Test"
A "GO!" button appears near the top of the screen.
Press the on (Go!) button and let electric fuel pump run for 60 seconds.
Repeat 3 times, then start the engine.

 

[PassatSE4me]

Apparently there is more than one way to prime. As long as you use one that works, I think that's all that matters.

 

[jrm]

Open the engine controller, select 04 - Basic settings, enter 35 and press go.
A start/stop button appears near the top of the screen.
Press the on (start) button and let both electric fuel pumps run for 60 seconds.
Repeat 3 times, then start the engine.

Years ago I burned out the glow plugs on my 1985 golf from extended cranking to prime, Norms method is not only is safest as your not running air threw the HPFP, but any excuse to use VCDS sounds like fun to me

 

[AreaMan]

What Power Service did you add? So it's ok for the HP fuel pump if it gets a load of concentrated Power Service at start up? I have no idea, just wondering.
I read that you should fill the canister with diesel but it needs to be filtered. So if you had a can of diesel, how would you filter it before adding to the canister?
Sorry for the dumb questions. I've always done my own service on my other cars, but gave in and had my dealer do my 10k service against my better judgement and when I got the car back the used oil filter o-ring was in the passenger seat .

 

[psd1]

What Power Service did you add? So it's ok for the HP fuel pump if it gets a load of concentrated Power Service at start up? I have no idea, just wondering.
I read that you should fill the canister with diesel but it needs to be filtered. So if you had a can of diesel, how would you filter it before adding to the canister?
Sorry for the dumb questions. I've always done my own service on my other cars, but gave in and had my dealer do my 10k service against my better judgement and when I got the car back the used oil filter o-ring was in the passenger seat .

Your car will run on straight PS, as evidenced by the OP.

IF you put diesel in it from a commercial source it will already have been filtered, probably twice. (going in to truck, and leaving pump at your corner gas station).

 

[Softrockrenegade]

Just for clarification even though I filled the canister with power service it was not straight power service going into the IP or the injectors. Most of it went back to the tank via return line and diesel was introduced to the canister at the same rate.

 

[Rico567]

What Power Service did you add? So it's ok for the HP fuel pump if it gets a load of concentrated Power Service at start up? I have no idea, just wondering.
I read that you should fill the canister with diesel but it needs to be filtered. So if you had a can of diesel, how would you filter it before adding to the canister?
Sorry for the dumb questions. I've always done my own service on my other cars, but gave in and had my dealer do my 10k service against my better judgement and when I got the car back the used oil filter o-ring was in the passenger seat .

The fuel filter design on the NMS (from an explanation I saw on a video on its replacement- I think on the "other" TDI forum) works such that the fuel in the canister is UNfiltered, and the fuel is drawn into the center of the filter and then out through the top. Therefore there is no issue with pouring unfiltered PS or diesel into the canister.

 

[tdiatlast]

^^^not exactly. The fuel on the OUTSIDE of the filter media is unfiltered until it has been pulled through the filter to the center. So, if you fill the canister with fuel, and then slide the filter in, there is a small quantity of fuel that is unfiltered.
If you're pouring from a clean container, from a clean fuel source, I don't believe this small amount of "unfiltered" fuel could possibly be a problem.

 

[Softrockrenegade]

I never poured it into the filter. I filled the canister and sank the filter in. The fuel is drawn from the canister through the outside of the filter amd up the center.

 

[FormerOwner]

Norm, I don't own the VCDS system. I refuse to buy it at this time.

 

[dzcad90]

If you perform the service as advised by VW, you'll only be drawing clean fuel into the system, and you'll have no "dry cranking."

When priming the pump via VCDS, you can hear the pump running, and you can audibly hear when the canister has filled with fuel - it has a different sound. Usually this happens with the first pump cycle, but I go ahead and do 3 anyway because I'm anal like that. (Anal folks on TDIClub? Really? )

Either way, worrying about this is one of those things that ranks right above worrying about changing the air in my spare tire. In actuality, it probably doesn't matter a whole lot what your preferred procedure is - just try and limit the amount of "dry cranking" and you'll be in good shape. A cup or so of unfiltered fuel / additive isn't likely to destroy your fuel system unless you're running something you siphoned out of an old farm tractor that has been sitting for about 20 years.

Oh.. And turning the key does not cycle the fuel pump to prime the canister. It just doesn't happen.

 

[FormerOwner]

Thank you... now time to watch other topics of sheer excitement unfold like a Mexican "Telenovela"...

 

[sdeck]

To the original topic, I did my 40K today. A few things may be useful to folks:

1. Oil change was done by draining from pan. Got a few extra milliliters from canister with my mityvac. Remove the plastic wire harness holder (1 screw) and rigid line in front (2 screws) first. Push back and down on the black wire harness to the right rear of housing. Lid and filter come up and right at an angle to remove. Cover white insulation with plastic bag before removing. For reinstalling, I used 22 ftlbs for new oil pan bolt, 18 ftlbs for filter housing lid. 4.5L LiquiMoly 4200 5W30. Put the new filter on the lid all the way to top before trying to reinsert it. Remove the plastic wire harness holder (1 screw) and rigid line in front (2 screws) first. Push back and down on the black wire harness to the right rear of housing.

2. Fuel filter was done without VCDS. I emptied canister with my mityvac, cleaned out the sediment with paper towels, and filled 2/3 of the way with stanadyne and LMDP. Sank new filter in and held my finger over center hole while filling it the rest of the way by pouring onto top on filter. The LMDP just flows down outside the filter through slots in the side of the top. It's apparent when you see it. Once it stopped flowing off the top, I removed my finger from the hole and added enough LMDP to the top until the level inside the center hole was very close to top. Buttoned it up and started the car. No difference in cranking. Started right up immediately, ran smooth as butter. No fiddling with key on or VCDS.

3. DEF. bought a 1/2 gallon filling jug from IDParts and a 2.5 gal box locally. After screwing the can onto the DEF tank in trunk, I emptied in by pushing down, then I cut a hole in the bottom (leave one side connected so it holds spout from box in hole) large enough for the 2.5 gal box spout and just kept filling and emptying until I ran out. (3 gal total, need to get more). Didn't spill a drop. The special little 1/2 gal jug made it simple and its reusable as an auto-off DEF measuring funnel

4. Reset oil change by turning on ignition while holding 0/0 Set button on cluster. Reset service reminder by doing the same with hazards on.

Forgot to get a cabin air filter.

 

[jrm]

you found sediment in the filter housing? was it baby powder fine? My local stations all run high flow 30 micron filters that are not HPFP friendly so I refilter down to 2 micron- it was quite the investment but now with 2 microns I feel safe, some virus and pollen is larger than that

 

[sdeck]

there was a bit of brownish sediment in the bottom of the canister. I wouldn't qualify it as baby-powder fine, it seemed more particulate/larger than that. My guess is that the dealer did not bother to clean out the canister at the 20K service (I know they at least opened it up as there was spilled diesel under it when I got it back). Possibly it was some road dust from under the canister lid that fell in when they removed the old filter. I can certainly see them just allowing it to bang down after pulling the filter. I have been seriously under-impressed by their service. I was careful and will check it at 60K I guess.

 

[jrm]

that was my experience at 20k as well, probably a rushed job as mechanics are indeed pu$hed to go fa$t.

 

[ben2mx]

What is power service? also, where can I get a VCDS?

 

[MichaelB]

What is power service? also, where can I get a VCDS?

here yah GO

http://powerservice14-px.rtrk.com/p...Local&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=ReachSearch

http://www.ross-tech.com/