Dealer quoted $375 labor to replace outer CV boots?

[EYE2]

My CV boots just split so I called my local VW dealer and they said the boots are $42.50 each but they charge $375 labor to replace them. That seems excessive to me. I know it is a messy job, but does it really take that long to clean the joints, repack them, and install new boots?

Does anyone know how many time units for the repair according to Volkswagen?

 

[Brian's96TDIPASSAT]

they probably quoted you 2hrs per side.

 

[oilhammer]

It is about $275 here, parts and labor. So $375 at a dealer (usually about $30 more per hour labor, and probably a higher parts price) does not sound too terribly high.

According to Alldata, it is 1.8 hr per side for one boot. Which is nuts, that is WAY higher than it should be.

The VW list price for an outer boot kit is about $45 (part number 3B0-498-203-B).

I think we charge 2 hours for both outer boots, and the rest is parts. We are $99/hr.

 

[whizznbyu]

changing the boots I believe involves realigning. Mine got changed out w/ remanufactured ones. Probably won't do that again in the future. Next time I'll get OEM from Impex

 

[oilhammer]

changing the boots I believe involves realigning. Mine got changed out w/ remanufactured ones. Probably won't do that again in the future. Next time I'll get OEM from Impex

You do not need to realign the B5 to do CV boots.

 

[Wizard]

if you are the least bit mechanically inclined and have the tools, the job is not that bad.
MOGolf has a pdf that is priceless...
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/CV_boot_replacement_on_B5.pdf
the only thing that was difficult for me was getting the joint off the shaft the way he described. i was able to use some improvised tools to remove the snapring and the joint slid right off.
here is the link to my efforts.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=261365

 

[Oblio13]

Our local dealership charges 5 hours.

 

[EYE2]

It is about $275 here, parts and labor. So $375 at a dealer (usually about $30 more per hour labor, and probably a higher parts price) does not sound too terribly high.

They are charging $375 just for the labor.

 

[oilhammer]

They are charging $375 just for the labor.

Probably going by the book time then. Like I said, I think the book time on this particular job is a bit excessive. That is why we charge less.

 

[rydogg]

I'm going to ask an admittedly stupid question, but what indications would one notice in leading up to replacing the CV joints?

 

[oilhammer]

I'm going to ask an admittedly stupid question, but what indications would one notice in leading up to replacing the CV joints?

In this case, the boots commonly split, but should be easily seen during a routine 10k interval service. In which case, the boots can be replaced and the joints packed with fresh grease and no harm done.

If the boots are neglected, then the grease slings out of them, and foreign contaminants get in and over time will destroy the joint. Imagine running your engine with the oil pan off.

In that case, the joints will generally "click" around turns under load, and if they get really bad they can click even going in a straight line, and will eventually blow apart.

 

[rydogg]

In this case, the boots commonly split, but should be easily seen during a routine 10k interval service. In which case, the boots can be replaced and the joints packed with fresh grease and no harm done.

If the boots are neglected, then the grease slings out of them, and foreign contaminants get in and over time will destroy the joint. Imagine running your engine with the oil pan off.

In that case, the joints will generally "click" around turns under load, and if they get really bad they can click even going in a straight line, and will eventually blow apart.

Ahhh, I understand...I think. Sounds similar to what I'm experiencing...my car is actually making more of a (feel free to laugh at this) "whop, whop, whop" noise coming from one of the front wheels only when I turn left. There is no noise when driving straight or turning right. That being said, I'll try and check the joints this weekend.

Thanks for the advice OH.

 

[Muleman]

I'll give you my story from last year. At routine oil change my mechanic noticed cv boot was cracked at about 120,000 miles. $200.00 to replace boot, so I do so. One month later axle starts clicking. Related? maybe, maybe not I don't know. So back into my independent shop. Axles are bad. I went the route of aftermarket axles for $200.00 each on the front. OH said rebuild VW's and I won't presumne to argue with his opinion, (didn't know his opinion when I replaced mine). However, I got 50,000+ miles on the after market ones and still OK on this end. Plus my mechanic says lifetime warrenty so if and when they puke I'll put them in again for labor cost. Depending on miles of course on your car, but in short I would not blow that kind of coin just on the boot(like I did). I would redo the joint as well now with new boot or get a new aftermarket one in there. Just my thoughts. Regards PJ

 

[VWSHPFRMN]

Ahhh, I understand...I think. Sounds similar to what I'm experiencing...my car is actually making more of a (feel free to laugh at this) "whop, whop, whop" noise coming from one of the front wheels only when I turn left. There is no noise when driving straight or turning right. That being said, I'll try and check the joints this weekend.

Sounds more like you have a bad tire or wheel bearing if you are hearing a whop, whop, noise.

As far as CV joints you can inspect the inner wheels for grease with out lifting the vehicle. I noticed grease on my wheel on Sunday when I went to wash my car. My joints have 117,000 miles on them and are in great shape. The key is to replace the boots as soon as they leak.

 

[whizznbyu]

You do not need to realign the B5 to do CV boots.

whoops. I meant my CV boots died and the CV joint crumbled, and had to be replaced, and realigned. Thanks.

 

[Boatman]

whoops. I meant my CV boots died and the CV joint crumbled, and had to be replaced, and realigned. Thanks.

Doesn't matter, you need to remove the axles from the vehicle either way. Nothing that would require realignment needs to be disturbed to remove the axles so realignment is unnecessary.

 

[G60ING]

2 months ago I had my wife's B5 axles rebuilt because my dealer tech friend told me of all the issues he has had with aftermarket axles for the B5. He advised me to have them rebuilt. The rebuild was $150 per axle but provided I only have to do this once I'll be happy.

This weekend I was working on a TDIcluber's mk4 jetta. Since his car has 250k miles and I was doing a clutch job I told him I'd install new axles for free (one of the axles had a minor tear in the boost and he suspected one of the axles was bad). I tool great care in applying the grease and made certain I didn't touch the angle of the inner CV joint before bolting them to the transmission. Well as soon as I started the car up and put it in gear the car had driveline wobbles. Turns out both inner CVS were WAAAAYYYY TOOO TIGHT. I yanked one axle and then tested the car again the other axle was bad too. So back to the old axles and problem went away.
I will never buy aftermarket axles again. I've had too many fail prematurely.

From now on I will have mine rebuilt. My time is not worth the hassles of saving $50-$70. Plus it helps keep my money in the USA as opposed to sending it over to china.

BTW the passat B5 axles are easy to replace and you do not have to break the alignment.

 

[oilhammer]

I agree, the Chinese axles are garbage.

 

[cglasel]

In this case, the boots commonly split, but should be easily seen during a routine 10k interval service. In which case, the boots can be replaced and the joints packed with fresh grease and no harm done.

If the boots are neglected, then the grease slings out of them, and foreign contaminants get in and over time will destroy the joint. Imagine running your engine with the oil pan off.

In that case, the joints will generally "click" around turns under load, and if they get really bad they can click even going in a straight line, and will eventually blow apart.

Hmmm... Mine click occasionally going around turns. Too far gone? How do you determine when they're done? By visual inspections once removed? Or is any clicking too much clicking?

Thanks.

 

[G60ING]

Hmmm... Mine click occasionally going around turns. Too far gone? How do you determine when they're done? By visual inspections once removed? Or is any clicking too much clicking?

Thanks.

any clicking is too much but the worst case scenario is the car won't move. the clicking can go on for a while

 

[Lug_Nut]

The VW list price for an outer boot kit is about $45 (part number 3B0-498-203-B).

3B0 498 203 D is the one I bought.
Took me about 3 hours to replace in the driveway, but the replacements of worn OEM shocks with FSD provided some overlap.
Having the axle out really eased the shock removal and installation. No pinch bolt / upper arm shenanigans needed with the axle out and the sway bar link disconnected.

 

[bigEZ]

i'm going to have to have mine replaced. i'm on a trip to memphis and thought that i would wait to make it home and do it myself, but i'm starting to hear them pretty bad and i think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and get it done at the dealer.

so, eye2, your dealer quoted price of parts plus $375 labor, so essentially $430 or so? the dealer i called in memphis quoted $600 plus tax. seriously? that's retarded. do these people not have standard pricing, or do they just make it up on the fly?

eye2, do mind posting the dealer giving you your quote, so that i might use that as ammunition with this stealer here? like i said, i'd wait until i get home, but i have about 700 miles of driving in front of me in just about 4 days with the wife and kids, and i'm just not gonna chance it. thanx!

 

[abctdi]

Pete,
Are you sure that's not my car? I just noticed grease on the wheel today, so I pulled it off and yuck. Looks like I have a project this weekend.

 

[VWSHPFRMN]

Pete,
Are you sure that's not my car? I just noticed grease on the wheel today, so I pulled it off and yuck. Looks like I have a project this weekend.

They all look the same on the inside . Glad you caught in on time before the joint went bad .

 

[abctdi]

Let's hope so. I drove the stang yesterday, just because of the nice weather. When I got home, the mess caught my eye for some reason. So I bought the part last night and will R&R today.
I assume smooth rotation indicates it is still good? I've never done this job before.

 

[abctdi]

All I can say about this is "what a pain that was". I've done my share of wrenching, but that was the least satisfying job I've done in a long time.
The instructions were awesome MoGolf, although the brake part didn't seem to work for me. Wrestling the parts off and on the shaft was a joy. It takes some gumption to whack the cv joint off the first time.
Next time will take half as long I'm sure, especially since I now have all the tools. And there will be a next time.
Oh yeah, for those w/o a Nm torque wrench, multiply by 0.74 for ft-lb. I could not get another half turn on the big center bolt, more like a quarter turn before it just seemed near catastrophy. I'm sure it's not coming off.

 

[MOGolf]

For the last one I did, I used a stout screwdriver through the caliper into into brake rotor to hold it. Using a Metalnerd wheel assist tool to turn the axle as needed.

I also found that the Harbor Freight 5 pound slide hammer has the right metric thread to screw into the stub axle. It came off pretty easy by clamping the axle into a vise (protected of course) and giving it a few whacks. Don't screw it in too far, just through the bolt threads and no farther.

 

[Lug_Nut]

I had assistance behind the wheel pressing the pedal, releasing it on cue to allow rotating the shaft for easier triple square access.
The 140 lb*ft was the easy part, but even with the wheel on the ground and pedal assistance, AND about 30 inches of pipe extension, the second 90 degrees almost didn't happen.
But please don't chastise me for my mark&pray method of marking the hub and bolt, then praying I had enough to get the full angle....

 

[PD_Passat]

Glad I had an extended warranty. Both CV boots were split and both CV joints were bad. Took it to dealer. Initially told that extended warranty would not replace them, however service manager gave them call and did some negotiating. In the end both joints replaced as well as the boots. Car handles like brand new, no more mystery noises/sounds. Only cost $100 (the deductiable). Will have to pay more attention to these in the future. I only had 53K miles on the car.

 

[travis45]

I'm installing 4 new Bilstein TC's, ball joints, control arm bushings, new tires and will align my B4. I noticed a cracked CV boot on the passenger side. Not bad yet I want to replace the boot while I've got the front end tore apart. From what I've gathered above. I need to remove the entire axle to replace this boot? Would it be possible to replace the boot with the axle still in the car when I've got the strut, control arm, ball joint and caliper off? You know, just tap the wheel bearing housing off. Never done axles before, any advice is appreciated.