CV Boot Replacement

[tdihopeful]

Is it possible to replace inner and outer CV boots on a MK4 Jetta without removing the axels from the wheel bearings/steering knuckle? If yes does that involve disassembly of the inner CV and if yes are there special tools required? Would a press be absolutely essential or could a hammer and drift work? I presume there would be a clip and pin that needs to be disengaged.

Thank You

 

[Mongler98]

Is it possible to replace inner and outer CV boots on a MK4 Jetta without removing the axels from the wheel bearings/steering knuckle? If yes does that involve disassembly of the inner CV and if yes are there special tools required? Would a press be absolutely essential or could a hammer and drift work? I presume there would be a clip and pin that needs to be disengaged.

Thank You

No.
Yes bit those kits never last. They are bandaids to get to a proper part.

 

[tdihopeful]

Ok I referenced Bentley and the outer CV is said to be driven off of the axel with a mallet. However this would require removing the axel from the hubs and while I have the tool that is supposed to do this it seems my axel is seized in the hub. I removed the axels, hubs and steering knuckles together. The Bentley procedure for the inner CV is to use a press. When I looked at the exploded view it appears that the inner and outer CV both have the same or similar splined connections. As such it seems to me that removing the inner CV should be possible with a mallet as is instructed for the outer CV. Please advise. Also where the ball joints are referenced Bentley instructs to mark the position of the Ball joints in relation to the a-arm when removing, presumably to aid reinstall orientation? I didn't do this but don't understand how I would re-install incorrectly. What do I need to know with that? Can't think of anything else to ask at the moment. I can say that with my attempt at rust removal of new clutch parts I have learned what I prefer to use and use case for each product. Naval Jelly rust remover caused a mess. Not recommend for surfaces with complex geometry and multi component assemblies. If the Naval Jelly sits too long it dries out and becomes a crust that is difficult to remove with anything other than tedious manual removal of this residual crust on parts or possibly reapplication of a moderate to strong acid or other caustic liquid (I only had a weak acid in the form of vinegar and didn't want to experiment with Naval Jelly residue removal with Sodium Hydroxide) Another product Loctite Rust Converter seemed to work moderately well but is advertised to be used as a paint prep product and is advised to be used on parts that do not reach a temperature in excess of 120 degrees. Evapo-Rust is the product that I was happy using it worked quite well was not particularly difficult to apply or clean up is reusable and non toxic none of which could be said for the other products in my particular use scenario.

 

[tdihopeful]

"Mongler98" I was posting a follow up just as you posted and I have no idea what you're comment is supposed to mean...

"No.
Yes bit those kits never last. They are bandaids to get to a proper part."

I take it you mistyped but as bit? And what "those kits" are you referring to? What "proper part" don't I have? What is it that I'm using a bandage for?

 

[Mongler98]

There are lots that have 2 half boots that ziptie on. So yes you could do that but guarantee it's only good for a few hundred miles long enough to save what you have till you can get to a proper job. Aka not worth it. So No. There is no way to do this job as the job is the replace it with an actual boot. Not some bandaid

 

[tdihopeful]

I have single piece CV boots that are new and ready to be installed. I didn't know of the 2 piece CV boots you have mentioned. Did you read my 2nd reply to this post? Have you any experience with removal and install of inner CV joints?

 

[tdihopeful]

You said two piece boots you guarantee would last for only a few hundred miles? Until I can get a proper job? Until I can get a proper job! If you actually read this post or most of the other posts I have made on the forum and had the ability to reason I don't think you'd comment that I would "get a proper job" in other words and same as previous in spirit do you think a person that has a Bentley Manual and has posted on as many topics as I have just usually takes they're car to a mechanic or is that person they're own mechanic?

 

[GlowBugTDI]

I just did my inner cv joints last week. 2 hrs and their done. Man what a pain to get them suckers on...those boots are tough and stiff!

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Take the axle out, put it in the vice and start disassembly, then just reverse steps.

 

[Tdijarhead]

You don’t need a press on the inner cv joint, just lots of paper towels to clean the grease off the joint to see what you’re doing. There is a clip on the end of the axle shaft holding the joint on. Pop the clip, tap the joint off.

Here is a myturbodiesel video.

 

[P2B]

Also where the ball joints are referenced Bentley instructs to mark the position of the Ball joints in relation to the a-arm when removing, presumably to aid reinstall orientation? I didn't do this but don't understand how I would re-install incorrectly. What do I need to know with that?

The holes in the a-arm are slotted to allow for camber adjustment. Marking the bolt positions (spray paint works) avoids the need for an alignment after reassembly.

 

[Mongler98]

You said two piece boots you guarantee would last for only a few hundred miles? Until I can get a proper job? Until I can get a proper job! If you actually read this post or most of the other posts I have made on the forum and had the ability to reason I don't think you'd comment that I would "get a proper job" in other words and same as previous in spirit do you think a person that has a Bentley Manual and has posted on as many topics as I have just usually takes they're car to a mechanic or is that person they're own mechanic?

Then why would you even ask if it could be done.
Uou asked a stupid question you knew the answere to. You will get a stupid answere for it.
If uou have a Bentley manual then why kn earth would you ask a stupid question like that.... geese

But it does fit your type of posts......

 

[tdihopeful]

Thank You for the helping feedback. I thought the job could be done without a press. The Bentley while providing a lot of information this like other manuals often demonstrates only one way to do a repair/removal/installation usually utilizing proprietary tools. I have a number of job specific tools but not some things and am not in a position to purchase additional such as a press. Again thanks and perhaps today my car will be back together. I took notes of sorts to keep nuts and bolts organized during disassembly but inevitable as my note taking wasn't as meticulous as it could have been I think there may be a bolt or two that is unidentified as to it's location. For example I know there were numerous small bolts and brackets for the turbo oil inlet line, support type brackets and they seemed slightly excessive/un-necessary I don't like to think or seem to be questioning VW engineers but perhaps if I didn't re-install one bracket oil return line support bracket it would be fine... I understand that vibration could cause fatigue on this line over time. Is this a good example of I should just use my best judgement do you think?

 

[tdihopeful]

It appears that there was an aftermarket right side drive axel and the CV boots that I purchased do not fit. It looks like I'm now going to have to cut one of the "OEM" boots and try to glue it back together and use cable ties, string, wire, duct tape to hold it together... Got all engine components back together for the most part. Especially anything that seemed fairly necessary. Battery wasn't charged enough to turn the engine over more than once or twice. Depressed the clutch and it was so smooth that I feel like I didn't install it correctly. I'm pretty certain I did and considering what I removed and replaced I suppose this is why. Is there any reason why I shouldn't try to start the engine without the axels installed? I wouldn't rev the engine in gear without a load because this could cause gear lash issues in the trans I'd imagine. Would like to start the engine and idle it for a while as it hasn't run in months.

 

[Mongler98]

cut one of the "OEM" boots and try to glue it back together and use cable ties, string, wire, duct tape to hold it together...

WHAT..... THE.......

 

[tdihopeful]

Maybe I said thanks a little too soon there... jarhead you're video shows a CV joint that is not the same as on my car. The clips that retain the CV on my car are nothing like those shown in you're video. They do not have holes to engage pins on expansion pliers. Would anyone like to comment on why the clips for retaining the CV joints on my car are designed with no easy way to remove them with a usual tool as shown in jarheads "turbo diesel" video. Can anyone provided an example of what I'm working on and what sort of pliers are needed in this particular case???

 

[STDOUBT]

comment on why the clips for retaining the CV joints on my car are designed with no easy way to remove them with a usual tool as shown

Didn't you say they were aftermarket?
Get some good pics of these puppies up in here.

 

[UhOh]

I've done only ONE axle, in which case I am in no way an expert: replaced joints and boots. But...

The boots ARE a pain to install as you have to stretch the holy heck out of them. I seem to recall pounding them on using a socket and one of the retaining washers from the new CV joint kit (that didn't fit; I re-used the old one w/o issue) slid over the shaft between the lip of the boot and the socket. I swore (a lot) that they were the wrong boots, but they're just insanely tight fitting. There are tools that are used specifically to expand boots; if I had to do this again I'd be looking to grab one of those tools (though figuring out which one/size is the trick). Most folks seem to buy entire axles thereby avoiding this hassle: aftermarket axles, however, tend to be hit and miss (which is why it's best to retain stock shafts).

 

[Tdijarhead]

Maybe I said thanks a little too soon there... jarhead you're video shows a CV joint that is not the same as on my car. The clips that retain the CV on my car are nothing like those shown in you're video. They do not have holes to engage pins on expansion pliers. Would anyone like to comment on why the clips for retaining the CV joints on my car are designed with no easy way to remove them with a usual tool as shown in jarheads "turbo diesel" video. Can anyone provided an example of what I'm working on and what sort of pliers are needed in this particular case???

I just had the joints off of a Jetta this past weekend as I put a new clutch in for a friend. The joints were slightly different than those shown. His joints had no metal cap on the end they were just the grease covered inner workings.

I agree with uhoh those boots are a bear to get on. All these VW joints are similar and come apart more or less the same. There are other videos of VW cv joints that may be more in line with what you’re seeing.

Cutting the boot and trying to reassemble it is a lost cause, it may last the rest of the day but probably not.

 

[jmodge]

Auto transmission joints have the metal caps on the end

 

[tdihopeful]

STDOUBT how do you suggest I get photos posted? From what I remember the only way to include those in my post is with a photo hosting website and I'm not trying to do that.

 

[tdihopeful]

The car is an 03 Jetta Wagon with a manual transmission. There are no "metal caps" did I mention metal caps in my previous post. I don't recall that I did. I said clips without holes. Imagine the regular clips that you have on you're car you know the ones for privileged people, the type that are easily removed with common tools then imagine those with with those little ends the ones with the little holes in them you know the holes that the little pins on you're wrench go into that way the clip can be expanded open aren't there. That's what I'm dealing with. Actually worse than that, the outside corner of these clips are rounded off making it seem all but impossible to remove without a possibly specific specialized tool.

 

[tdihopeful]

If OEM boots are "insanely tight fitting" and need they're own special tool then why are there metal bands included with them that also need they're own special tool? Is it because it's not enough to make a large profit margin basically producing throw away consumer products that if you want to repair you need to be willing to spend money on countless tools to solve problems that were engineered to either promote purchase of a new car that is soon to be a problem or be frustrated to the degree of breaking shhhhhhit and yelling and unable to repair you're own property in a dignified manner?

 

[tdihopeful]

"cutting the boot and trying to reassemble it is a lost cause" no one here has advised on what particular tool I need to remove the clips to then remove the CV joints. What other options do I have with limited money, tools, facilities and assistance of physical person's? For instance I was the most proficient Welder/Fabricator (aside perhaps the instructor) at two different High Schools I attended. I attended Metals Shop all four years of attendance. Single handedly floated our school to a 2nd or third place in a trades competition yet I am now repairing the exhaust system flex section on my car with gasket maker, aluminum foil, wire and pipe clamps... Why is this? Society at large would answer because I have made bad choices, have substance abuse or alcohol abuse issues, mental health issues, a gambling problem or other money management issues because it's far easier to blame an individual than to acknowledge the abuses and selfish behavior perpetrated on me. I'll ask again for like the third time is there a way that I can post photos directly to my post?

 

[csstevej]

Ok ….. you’ve cut the boot off correct?
Tilt the cv joint to one side , get plenty of clean paper towels and clear out as much grease as you can….you don’t need to get it all.
With it tilted and and if you have a vise available , clamp the shaft in the vise , use a soft metal drift pin , dowel square block of aluminum and where you see the metal hub ( for lack of a better term ) that’s on the splines , place the soft metal drift there and with a regular hammer smack that metal hud to get it over the clip…..keep tapping it till it comes off.
Some kits give you a new clip….if the old one looks fine go with it.
Now you have the cv joint in your hand.
Clean up the shaft and keep track of any washers or spacers if it has one,

 

[csstevej]

To reassemble put the boot on and what ever washer or spacer there is , align the “ hub “ of the cv joint onto the splines , place the nut onto the threaded end and with a block of metal or wood smack it back down with a hammer till it stops , pack joint and boot with grease , install boots onto there respective places and install the clamps.

 

[Mongler98]

I suggest you watch a few youtube videos. 90% of cv axles all come apart the same way.
Tilt to side and pop apart.

 

[03TDICommuter]

IIRC, that clip you can expand by catching then ends with a circlip spreader. Something with flat ends. At least that's what I think I used. OR, I walked the clip out with a flat tipped screwdriver. I've done it twice on my Jetta (both sides) and I don't remember having any difficulty.

Post a photo of what you're tackling.

 

[tdihopeful]

I've asked if I can directly post photos numerous times and I keep getting people telling me to post photos. I'll stop asking. I'm not gonna use a photo hosting URL unless someone can tell me a good reason why and all details involved with doing so. My car is pretty much back together. Just cleaning, conditioning and airing the tires then get it off of the wooden blocks and take her for a spin... I did split the CV boot and between surface preparation, a particular glue, high tensile strength fiber reinforcement and appropriately sized cable ties I would be pretty surprised if the boot didn't last at least a number of days. Wouldn't be surprised if it lasts many hundreds of miles.

 

[03TDICommuter]

I've asked if I can directly post photos numerous times and I keep getting people telling me to post photos. I'll stop asking. I'm not gonna use a photo hosting URL unless someone can tell me a good reason why and all details involved with doing so.

You don’t need to host your photos on a different site but you cannot attach directly. I upload my photos to my media folder on this site and then copy and paste the link into the post.