skoullias
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Location
- Western Massachusetts
- TDI
- Previously: 03 2dr 5sp 357,xxx; Current: B5.5V 116,xxx
I recently did some research on trailer hitch options and found that, in the US, most market-based options are limited to Class 1 hitches, which limit towing capacity to about 100lbs of tongue weight and 1,000lbs towing capacity or 200lbs tongue weight and 2,000lbs towing capacity, depending on where you might be renting a trailer from, the item hitched to the vehicle (i.e. 4-bicyce carrier vs. flat trailer vs. cargo tailer), the trailer hitch specs, and how it is mounted to a vehicle (or modified to mount to the vehicle). Background information on the recommended towing limits for Passat TDI owners in the US accordingly vary between these two numbers. However, outside the US, the towing capacity of many of the vehicles is higher (2004-2005 UK Passat "Estate" specs here - downloads PDF; they range from >3100 lbs to <3700 lbs, depending on the model), allowing for the transport of heavier loads, boats/recreational vehicles, and campers.
After investigating the options I had available to me locally, I determined that a local welding shop that caters to the utility vehicle industry could provide me with the best possible option (the particular shop also sells and services salt and sand spreading equipment, as well as trailers). Given that I do not have the requisite infrastructure and technical/practical experience, and despite outsourcing all of the work, the cost to me was approximately equivalent to some (though not all) of the comparatively more costly European imports (i.e. retractable ball hitches). However, this cost also includes installation, in my case, as well as all electricals. An added but unintended benefit is that I am supporting the local economy, small-scale manufacturing, and investing in local technical capacity and skilled labor; therefore, I'd invite others seeking to increase their towing capacity to also consider these benefits and weigh this option before going for a costlier imported option. An additional benefit I'm going to claim over a retractable ball hitch is a 2" receiver is more versatile and offers more options (although, in a post compiling other non-Class 1 hitch jobs, there are several market-based, custom, and add-on options if you prefer to go with a euro-style hitch or already have one). Finally, as a disclaimer, my towing needs are (in order) a bicycle rack for a 2" receiver, a cargo box with ~200 lbs for distances of around 300 miles, and (on rare occasions) a 5x8 cargo trailer for distances across town.
Pictures and various approaches from previous builds were very useful in giving the shop manager an idea of what I wanted, and helped us have a conversation about what would work. Unlike many of these approaches, he did not eliminate the bumper shock absorber, nor is he running arms through the channels where the shock absorbers are present (this appears to be what SilverGhost has done, though I can't be certain as I couldn't find an installation description). Also, SilverGhost has disclaimed uncertainty about towing anything too heavy, but has towed ~2800 lbs for 2500 miles without incident. Other TDIclub members have towed heavier loads with a Class 1 hitch, but that really isn't advisable.
I apologize that the photographs aren't very instructive. I arrived at the shop a half hour prior to completion of the job, and therefore didn't get any detailed pics, but if you're interested, I'm happy to put you in touch with the shop where I got the work done.
The hitch itself is a Draw-Tite. I do not have the model number, but it was unused older stock. The contours miraculously followed the bends of the rear of the vehicle quite nicely, and did not have to be modified in that regard. It was flipped upside down, as the chain plate was interfering. The shop welded on an additional plate, which fastens to the spare wheel well, to avoid twist when the hitch has a heavier tongue weight. I am not sure how much the spare wheel zone can actually withstand; however, it is mounted to 4 points and on a wider plate than the market-based Class 1 hitches, which mount to 1 point on a narrower arm. It is difficult to tell in the photos, but the ends of the hitch have angle iron which is both bolted on and welded on, to both the trailer hitch as well as to the chassis.
After investigating the options I had available to me locally, I determined that a local welding shop that caters to the utility vehicle industry could provide me with the best possible option (the particular shop also sells and services salt and sand spreading equipment, as well as trailers). Given that I do not have the requisite infrastructure and technical/practical experience, and despite outsourcing all of the work, the cost to me was approximately equivalent to some (though not all) of the comparatively more costly European imports (i.e. retractable ball hitches). However, this cost also includes installation, in my case, as well as all electricals. An added but unintended benefit is that I am supporting the local economy, small-scale manufacturing, and investing in local technical capacity and skilled labor; therefore, I'd invite others seeking to increase their towing capacity to also consider these benefits and weigh this option before going for a costlier imported option. An additional benefit I'm going to claim over a retractable ball hitch is a 2" receiver is more versatile and offers more options (although, in a post compiling other non-Class 1 hitch jobs, there are several market-based, custom, and add-on options if you prefer to go with a euro-style hitch or already have one). Finally, as a disclaimer, my towing needs are (in order) a bicycle rack for a 2" receiver, a cargo box with ~200 lbs for distances of around 300 miles, and (on rare occasions) a 5x8 cargo trailer for distances across town.
Pictures and various approaches from previous builds were very useful in giving the shop manager an idea of what I wanted, and helped us have a conversation about what would work. Unlike many of these approaches, he did not eliminate the bumper shock absorber, nor is he running arms through the channels where the shock absorbers are present (this appears to be what SilverGhost has done, though I can't be certain as I couldn't find an installation description). Also, SilverGhost has disclaimed uncertainty about towing anything too heavy, but has towed ~2800 lbs for 2500 miles without incident. Other TDIclub members have towed heavier loads with a Class 1 hitch, but that really isn't advisable.
I apologize that the photographs aren't very instructive. I arrived at the shop a half hour prior to completion of the job, and therefore didn't get any detailed pics, but if you're interested, I'm happy to put you in touch with the shop where I got the work done.
The hitch itself is a Draw-Tite. I do not have the model number, but it was unused older stock. The contours miraculously followed the bends of the rear of the vehicle quite nicely, and did not have to be modified in that regard. It was flipped upside down, as the chain plate was interfering. The shop welded on an additional plate, which fastens to the spare wheel well, to avoid twist when the hitch has a heavier tongue weight. I am not sure how much the spare wheel zone can actually withstand; however, it is mounted to 4 points and on a wider plate than the market-based Class 1 hitches, which mount to 1 point on a narrower arm. It is difficult to tell in the photos, but the ends of the hitch have angle iron which is both bolted on and welded on, to both the trailer hitch as well as to the chassis.
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